Disturbing Domestic Fabric Design
It is often heard that designers of garment enterprises complain that "domestic fabrics are not good enough". They do not find satisfactory fabrics at the time of clothing design. They have such problems after finishing their garments.
A few years ago, I was worried about shrinkage, fading, wrinkling, fuzzing, electrification and so on. Now, with the development and improvement of the fabric industry, this situation has been greatly improved, but they are beginning to feel that the colors and patterns of domestic fabrics are not fashionable enough, and the functional fabrics are too few.
In short, the development of fabrics never seems to satisfy the needs of clothing.
In fact, this is not a new topic. There is an indisputable fact that there is a gap between domestic fabrics and imported fabrics.
We have been calling for the progress of domestic fabrics to meet the needs of the garment industry, but the fabric industry has never been satisfactory.
The innovation of fabric design is not enough. It is a consistent view of the industry.
Why?
In the near future, we will carry out a series of analysis and report on some problems in fabric design, from fabric production technology and equipment to product design and development, as well as personnel engaged in fabric design.
Even though we can not solve the problems in the development of fabrics, it is at least possible to provide some references for the development of the fabric industry.
What kind of state is the product design of domestic fabric enterprises? How much attention do they attach to the design and development of fabrics?
In recent years, nearly all enterprises in the press have emphasized the importance of fabric design, development and product innovation.
The actual situation is also true, from the design and development department's research, to many manpower and material resources input, the enterprise has done a lot of fabric design work from top to bottom.
But after further understanding, the reporters also found that the so-called fabric design and product development in most enterprises were the research of technology and technology. Designers were busy studying how to improve the number of fabric and how to improve the blending process.
Fabric design has become the technological and technological design and improvement of fabric production.
Is technology design equal to fabric design?
"Certainly not. Fabric design includes production process design, but not just that.
Through the study of market demand, it is found that the art design of fabric color, pattern, texture and so on is even more important.
Sun Ruizhe, director of the national textile product development center, said.
In reality, the enterprises attach more importance to the former, which is also the reason why the overall level of fabric design is not high.
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Misunderstanding of competitive advantage
Experts from the marketing department of the China Textile Industry Association believe that enterprises attach importance to technology and ignore the artistic connotation, because the enterprises do not know enough about the competitive advantage of products, and can not say that the enterprises attach importance to the technology and technology. But they can not emphasize the fabric design on the one hand, and do a lot of technical and technological work on one side, ignoring the artistic design of fabrics.
Whenever the domestic fabric companies participate in exhibitions and other activities to do business publicity, we can often see such a text: "the annual production capacity of the enterprise is XX million meters, assets X billion yuan, has world-class XX equipment, product quality in the leading international level" and so on.
In their eyes, the huge scale and capital, advanced technology and equipment, and the leading product quality are the proof of their own strength and the competitive advantage.
In contrast, many foreign fabric companies like to tell others, "no matter how many tens of meters or tens of thousands of fabrics you need, how fast can we do it? We have been working with XX international brand, and the fabric is very fashionable."
Tony, manager of marketing department, told reporters: "foreign fabric companies are very mature in the design of fabrics themselves. When communicating with customers, they emphasize the fashion and marketability of products. What customers need is these, not how many advanced facilities and financial strength your company has."
It is precisely because of the cognitive difference of competitive advantage in the market that some enterprises attach too much importance to the technical design of fabric production, and the power of obvious input in the artistic connotation and design is not enough.
In addition, many fabric production enterprises are pformed and separated from state-owned enterprises. Leaders of enterprises are more willing to undertake sample processing rather than invest more money and time in market research and development, unwilling to take more market risks.
In the case of a large number of fake and inferior products in China's market, the slogan for many enterprises to survive is "quality is the life of enterprises".
It is not difficult to understand why technology is overemphasized in domestic fabric enterprises.
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Technology is not everything.
In this regard, fabric enterprises also have their own reasons.
The general manager of a fabric company in Huangshi, Hubei thinks that this is normal: "our research on textile technology comes from the continuous improvement of fabric quality and quality is the guarantee of products.
In addition, telling our customers the strength of our capital and production will give customers confidence in their businesses and fabrics. People are more willing to believe that the strength of big enterprises will give them a reliable product.
A good product should have quality assurance, but good quality is not necessarily able to get a satisfying market return.
Technology is the premise of quality assurance, but it is by no means the sole criterion of the market.
Nowadays, clothing enterprises are paying more and more attention to the important influence of fabrics on clothing. Therefore, the requirements for fabrics are getting higher and higher. Although good quality is a prerequisite and guarantee, without artistic design, fabrics will be the product of enterprises, and they will lose the vitality of competition.
Indeed, fabric design is in the final analysis for clothing design. The reason why imported fabrics attract so much domestic clothing enterprises is not only that its quality is better than domestic, but also that the fabric's creativity, pattern, color and texture are extremely rich, and that the fabric contains more artistry.
As AdamKims, a famous Korean designer, said, "the work of fashion designers begins with fabric design.
A good fabric is worn on the body. Any shape is a good fashion.
The beautiful fabric does not need much design, it has completed half of the work of costume design, and it will also bring more inspiration to dress design.
From the perspective of pure technology, 90% of the domestic wool textile industry has reached the international level, and 10% of them even surpass the international level and are in the leading position.
But many designers in China design fabrics and start with technology, and foreign designers do more from patterns, texture and feel effects. They even start designing and selecting yarn, and then to the technological process and design of fabrics.
Fabric can not just be produced by the machine with a quality assurance cloth, it should reflect the connotation of humanity and art, and it needs more fabric design.
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Fabric design should keep pace with market demand.
Although many fabric enterprises attach more importance to technology, a considerable number of fabric enterprises attach great importance to the ability of product design and development.
Like Shandong Ruyi group, in addition to its own product development and design work outdoor, this year, it also collaborate with the national textile product development / China Textile Information Center to launch its own fabric product trend.
This means that fabric enterprises have realized the high returns of high technology and high value-added products.
Director Sun Ruizhe said: "to do a good job in the rapid response of product development, we need to understand the trend of the market with the technology of processing technology as the core, as well as the large-scale collection mode of advanced development mechanism and quality assurance system.
This is just a part of product development, and we must accurately locate our production development according to the demand of fabric market.
The biggest progress of domestic fabrics is not only technological progress, but also the development of functional fabrics, such as wool textile, bamboo fiber, soybean fiber and corn fiber.
However, with the gradual enrichment of people's material life, clothing is no longer simply playing the role of keeping warm and keeping the cold. Clothing enterprises' demand and requirements for fabrics are also getting higher and higher.
Although consumers need reliable quality, the fashion sense, comfort and functionality of fabrics have attracted more and more attention.
Cuddihy, the designer of the international brand MicheyBrazil, said: "the key to choosing fabrics is not only strong manufacturability but also texture. The most important thing is to make fabrics and clothing compatible with the surrounding environment as much as possible."
Quanzhou Haitian company has set up its own fabric studio since last year, and has developed a series of functional fabrics such as COOLTRY hygroscopic and quick drying.
They make the samples made of garments into the clothing enterprises directly, and tell the customers in the most intuitive way, "what can our fabrics do?"
Now they have worked with many famous brands in China, and the result is very good.
Hu Yingqing, a professor at Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, thinks that the raw materials of domestic fabrics are fairly good, mainly because the post-processing technology of products can not keep up with them, which makes the fabric's function poor.
If our enterprises can strengthen the research on finishing technology and pay attention to the development of functionality and fashion, I believe it is not difficult for our fabrics to go up to a higher level.
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