Is Armani Wrong? &Nbsp; (Chart)
Although the 76 year old Giorgio Armani stubbornly believes that fashion business can not be sold, it can not be controlled by banks and stock markets. However, more and more luxury brands in Italy are actively preparing for listing or seeking gold owners.
Last month's 2012 spring and summer men's wear week in Milan, designer Giorgio Armani bluntly attacked the new series of Prada and Dolce &Gabbana after the end of his release show, which made men look ridiculous, and accused the media of not giving due criticism to these clown shapes. The reason for this is that "today's fashion is dominated by banks and stock markets, rather than the owners of fashion houses." At the same time, he once again stressed that he did not need to go public, because his company was completely independent and had no debts. His clothes made men look more handsome and graceful.
As we all know, Giorgio Armani is one of the only remaining private brands in the high fashion industry. Armani's remarks undoubtedly hit a large area. However, the first to fight back is not Miuccia Prada, but Tod 's Group Chairman and CEO Diego Della Valle. Like Armani, Della Valle is known for its straightforward mind. 6 years ago, he openly defended the Prime Minister of Italy, Berlusconi, through the evening post of Italy.
Shortly after the men's week, Italy's "24 hours Sun" held a luxury conference in Milan. Della Valle sharply retorted at the meeting. "Such an attack is meaningless and very inappropriate. The listing of Prada is a very good move, and the whole world can witness it. " At the luxury conference, Brunello Cucinelli unveiled its schedule for next spring listing, and Diesel's boss Renzo Rosso also expressed the intention of listing.
Della Valle believes that Armani should do something positive instead of criticizing Prada's strategy. For example, like him, to contribute to the restoration of Colosseum. "In crisis, the important thing is to work together. We have the obligation to send positive signals instead of wasting time on unnecessary attacks." In particular, he suggested that Armani should consult other monuments that need money to repair, such as the Sforza castle in Milan. In addition, he also politely pointed out that Armani is 76 years old this year. It is unwise to make such remarks. He called Armani "an energetic old man".
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Della Valle believes that today's luxury market is undergoing tremendous changes. At this point, we should not be left alone. "On the contrary, we must learn from those large foreign luxury groups. They integrate many companies and are very competitive." In particular, he praised the LVMH group's acquisition of its 50.4% stake in the jewelry family brand Bulgari in March this year, calling it "a wonderful deal between friends, which is no better for both buyers and sellers." For some Italy media's dissatisfaction with the acquisition of a legendary brand in Italy by a French group, he thinks that it is full of absurd ideas and will drive only sincere investors.
However, when it comes to her company, Della Valle says Tod 's is growing naturally, not relying on acquisition strategy. As a listed company in Milan, the group has four brands of Tod 's, Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier.
Earlier, the CEO FrancescoTrapani of Bulgari said that the purpose of the deal with LVMH group was to "turn Bulgari into a more competitive brand in the international market dominated by big groups". He pointed out that Bulgari is still a Italy brand, and people do not need a "French Bul gari". Every brand of LVMH has its own independent strategy. In fact, LVMH is a global multinational group with Italy management and American shareholders. He also reminded entrepreneurs not to view their company as a toy, to seize all opportunities for growth, even if it means losing control.
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As mentioned earlier, with the rapid expansion of IPO market in Italy, Brunello Cucinelli has launched the brand listing plan to seek future development. He will see next spring as a good opportunity. "I have decided to go public in Milan, because I strongly support Italy, wingbula (headquarters of brand) and our culture." He said.
In contrast, Renzo Rosso is more patient with the Diesel listing plan and extends the timetable to 3 years. "At the moment, there is no need for this. My two sons are working for the company. We have enough cash flow. We can decide everything freely and do not have to cater for the trend. However, listing can bring greater transparency to the company and attract executives with shareholding requirements. " But he also pointed out that listing is a time-consuming and management distraction.
At this luxury conference, Della Va LLE and Rosso have repeatedly reiterated the importance of the concept of "made in Italy". Bottega Veneta's CEOMarco Bizzarri also holds the same view, and he has always supported Italy's manufacturing sector.
He also said that the company's gradual improvement in recent years is inseparable from the backing of PPR group.
Speaking of the parent company PPR, Gucci Giannini's creative director Frida Giannini also said, "every brand's personality and creativity are fully respected.
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