When Did Chinese Fashion Begin?
Sun Zhongshan in western suit and leather shoes
Changing clothes, not only for fashion
When did Chinese fashion start?
It is undoubtedly the revolution of 1911.
A political revolution made
Feudal
The dynasty collapsed completely in China and eliminated the "clothing hierarchy" that had been stubbornly in the minds of the Chinese people for thousands of years.
The tradition of "Zhao Ming" and "Wei Wei" has been out of date, and traditional harsh ethics and weathering ideas have been completely buried.
Changing clothes is the pursuit of equality, freedom and new life.
What is intriguing is Xinhai.
democratic
The revolution is not very thorough, but its dress revolution is quite resolute.
Western-style clothes become "revolutionary appearance"
To eliminate old customs, the first thing is to cut out the long braids that symbolize the political rule of the Qing Dynasty.
Then, the government formulated the first batch of "Regulations on service" in the Republic of China.
In July 1912, the Senate announced its system of service.
Handle system
clothing
It can be divided into three categories: (1) western style dress, (two) uniform, (three) regular clothes.
The dress is pure American style.
The official uniform is specially made in Chinese style and imitation western style.
Regular clothing is a little bit like Chinese ancient system, but it is a little flexible, but it is long and shank, so that it can boot. "
In the upper class, Western-style clothes become a popular "official uniform".
From the photos taken at that time, we can see the change of Western-style clothes in official occasions.
In December 29, 1911, a provisional presidential election was held in Nanjing, and 17 provinces represented.
There were more than 40 participants, 60% wearing long gowns and 40% Mandarin vests.
In February 18, 1912, second temporary presidential elections were held.
After the meeting, Cai Yuanpei led Yuan Shikai's special mission to Beijing.
In the group of 11 non military personnel, 8 people wear suits.
In March 25th of the same year, Prime Minister Tang Shaoyi went to Nanjing to receive provisional government. Sun Zhongshan took a group photo with the president and Tang Shaoyi.
There are more than 40 people in the picture. Only a few people wear traditional clothes, most of them wear Western clothes.
Western-style clothes became the necessary "revolutionary appearance" in this period.
Cheongsam Cloak
Foreign dress triggering "national goods movement"
The "rules of service" boldly introduced western style garments to China. The tuxedo was identified as a ceremonial dress with western style white shirts, vest, black tie, white gloves, black top hat and black lacquer leather shoes.
However, because the imported materials are used mostly, the dumping of foreign goods in China has led to the production of domestic silk and so on.
Fabric
Unsalable.
In January 12, 1912, Ta Kung Pao published the article "Yi Yi takes the preservation of domestic products as the essentials": "easy to serve and not easy to be expected."
Our people rely on silk for life, and can they abandon their materials? "
"Declaration" published in May 19, 1912 the Hankou gentry business community launched the Hankou goods maintenance association article: "anyone who enlists, does not wear foreign hat as the first duty."
In order to publicize the idea of patriotic buying of domestic products, the Hankou saves the nation to the point that somebody has broken the blood book, the scene is very solemn and stirring: the Republican Party of Wuhan opened the conference, attended the meeting more than one thousand people, followed the county Cheng Jun Yu Pei to speak on the stage, the foreign clothing hat sells well the entire country's harm, after that, cut the knife to cut the finger big book "please use the national product" four words, the blood dripping.
Zhongshan suit button deducts the three people's principles
There are different opinions on the origin of the Chinese tunic suit. One of them is that Mr. Sun Zhongshan went to Vietnam to organize the Central Committee in Hanoi in 1902, and went into the Western clothing shop set up by Huang Longsheng.
China
Huang Longsheng designs a beautiful, simple and practical Chinese dress, which is based on Western European and Japanese clothing styles, and is designed in combination with the prevailing "business" clothing and student wear of overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia.
When Mr. Zhongshan wore the suit, he said, "this kind of clothing is good looking, practical, convenient and economical. Unlike western style clothes, it must also be hard to collar, except for shirts and shirts, which are mostly imported and expensive."
At the same time, the Chinese tunic suit is also endowed with any political meaning that no costume has ever had in history: four pockets symbolize the four dimensions of the country, that is, propriety, righteousness, honesty and shame; the five buttons symbolize the political system of the separation of powers from the Republic of China, namely, political power, legislative power, judicial power, examination power and supervisory power.
The three buttons on the cuffs represent the three people's principles of nationality, civil rights and people's livelihood.
In April 1929, the twenty-second State Council decided to decide on the uniform uniform dress Ordinance: "take the Chinese tunic suit."
In this regard, the Chinese tunic suit was promulgated by the national government and became a legal uniform.
People in the streets are dressed in "Chinese and Western" costumes.
Improved cheongsam inhaled to button up buttons.
Although the banners of "flower pots bottom" and "horseshoe sleeves" disappeared, Qipao still existed.
In the early years of the Republic of China, women's clothing still maintained the shape of the lower skirts of their jackets, and the government also stipulated that women's dresses should be upper apron skirts.
Influenced by the Western way of life, women realize the beauty of "curvilinear". When cutting clothes, they change the chest, shoulders, waist and hips of the traditional dress perfectly.
In the people's impression, Shanghai was at the forefront of fashion.
But in fact, the "Miss Xiguan" in Guangzhou, who was dressed up and dressed up, is the fashion leader. Qipao is also the first to appear in Guangzhou.
"No matter the wives and ladies of the dignitaries, or the students or housewives, they all like cheongsam......"
The cheongsam worn by Miss Xiguan is mostly embroidered silks and satin. Cheongsam waist waist and pleated pleats to highlight female curves.
This is the improvement of traditional cheongsam.
The biggest difference in improving cheongsam is to boldly outline the outline of human body.
As the waist of the robe continues to shrink, the curve of the female figure is finally revealed.
"Some cheongsam's waist is narrow enough to breathe in to button up."
In addition, the length of cheongsam was shortened and the cuffs were narrowed.
The traditional cheongsam wears trousers, and the slit is very shallow. Only visible.
Embroidery
The legs of the ROC's cheongsam are underpants and stockings, and their legs are exposed in the slit.
Fashion girls are fashionable.
In addition to Western cosmetics, Chinese women began to spray perfume and even lipstick, according to the New York Times.
Hairstyles are also beginning to deviate from tradition.
"Women's hairstyle revolution is no less than that of men."
Women began to cut short hair, and even began to perm.
At the same time, Chinese women began to wear leather shoes. "Even the most powerful high-heeled shoes, they can walk easily and flexibly, and take swift steps."
Western style stockings became popular all the time.
European and American businessmen are busy designing new styles to meet the urgent needs of millions of Chinese golden lotus feet.
By the end of the 20s of last century,
Underwear
When they were introduced to China from abroad, they were called "milk of righteousness".
At first, Chinese women were not used to it. Movie stars became the forerunners of fashion experience.
Ruan Lingyu is one of the earliest Chinese women wearing "Yi milk".
On the screen, she wore a perfect body curve after wearing the cream and wearing cheongsam, which amazed the women.
"Righteous milk" gradually spread in big cities such as Shanghai and Guangzhou.
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