The Blend Of Luxury And Chinese

Jiang Qionger's child is a full year old. On weekdays, she and the chubby half blood are exchanged in Shanghai dialect. In this era of Shanghai dialect's criticism, Qiong said firmly: "we must pass on the Shanghai dialect."

While teaching a small life is fading language, on the other hand, she is determined to pass. New products The "up and down" brand will continue to inherit almost lost Chinese handicrafts. In the past year, two children have been raised at the same time. Last year, Hermes launched the "up and down" brand for the Chinese market and hired Chiang as the CEO and art director of the brand.

　 No matter what kind of raising is not simple.

According to a new report by CLSA Asia-Pacific Markets, an investment research institute, China is expected to become the world's largest luxury market by 2020. In order to greet the Chinese with super shopping power, luxury shops in Champs Elysee Boulevard in France are equipped with Chinese speaking salesmen, but all the new luxury stores in China are crowded, pointing to commodities everywhere, saying, "this, there is this" Chinese guest. Since 2008, almost all the leaders of luxury goods have been smiling about the word "China".

Over the past 30 years, rich Chinese have been very proud of European luxury brands despite their little understanding of the true luxury spirit.

　 However, there seems to be a lack of internal connection between luxury goods and Chinese.

When the poorly managed Prada family learned that their shares were acquired by a Chinese buyer and the latter might even become a controlling shareholder, the remaining equity quotations he wanted would be more than doubled. In the broad sense, the "made in China" market in the international market is constantly improving, but there is still a big gap between the high-end brand and the high-end brand. This is also a potential psychological factor that Lenovo questioned IBM and Geely's acquisition of Volvo.

　 Who will make up for the gap?

Jiang Qionger, the designer of the new generation to the international stage, believes that this requires Chinese people to make their own efforts first.

The first group of consumers who have been in contact with luxury goods has experienced more than ten years' experience as buyers. For them, inexplicable fanaticism vanished and replaced by gradually formed aesthetic preference and cognition of brand connotation.

"We found that 5 years ago, some Chinese and Asians began to have a desire to return to their culture." Jiang Qionger, CEO and art director, told Global Entrepreneur.

Jiang Qionger has a very good French friend, Yann Debelle de Monthby, and Chiang is known as a man of mystery and story. Coincidentally, this does a similar job for a friend intentionally or unintentionally. In April of this year, he became the design director of the two sister brands in Shanghai's Jahwa banner. The brand that was born almost at the same time was designed to stick to the original Shanghai style rather than the "Chinese style" product in the general sense.

In September 7th, Shanghai Jahwa announcement revealed that the 100% state-owned shares of Jahwa group were sold publicly, including 120 million shares of Shanghai Jahwa Abt Associates Inc stock (equivalent to 29% stake in Shanghai Jahwa listed company). It is reported that these assets and other assets of Jahwa group will be sold to investors. After the restructuring, Jahwa will be able to integrate various resources and build a fashion industry group more efficiently. Its future strategy includes expansion of luxury product lines and acquisition of foreign brands. It was also in September that the product of the twin sister's heart wing was launched on schedule.

Because of the background of the parent group, Hermes and the twin sister group of Shanghai Jahwa Co., Ltd., the two brands have attracted widespread media attention since their debut last year. But most of them are skeptical: can the "made in China" high-end or luxury brand really be recognized and accepted by the international market?

The second largest luxury group in the world Buy After that, "Shanghai" can not be regarded as a "successful" luxury Made in China case. "Shanghai" is good at drawing inspiration from traditional Chinese culture, making great use of the characteristics of traditional Chinese costumes, such as embroidery, binding, and buckle. The most famous is the improved modern cheongsam, Tang suit and mandarin jacket, and its strong Chinese sentiment has soon been accepted by international fashion people. At present, "Shanghai" has become the three largest profitable brand in the past, and its annual profit even exceeds Dunhill and MontBlanc. But in fact, "Shanghai" and Shanghai are already far away.

The designer team of "Shanghai" comes from Paris, Rome, London and New York only one Chinese does not exist. This means that the business model of luxury goods in China still focuses on finding products that meet the needs of luxury consumers from a global perspective instead of deliberately sticking to traditional aesthetic values.

In this way, the way to emphasize the Chinese characteristics is to move upstream and downstream, but in the light of the market rule of luxury goods, it seems to be in line with the trend.

A survey conducted by Boston consulting firm (BCG) earlier this year shows that when a region is located, the Luxury goods When the market matures, it will naturally go from imitation to self creation and produce its own original luxury brand. With the increase of Chinese consumers' wealth and brand awareness, this day is just around the corner. In this sense, the exploration of the upper and lower sisters is very meaningful.

　　 Blending things

Before meeting Jen, Shanghai Jiahua had never thought of invites a foreigner to be the artistic director of twin sisters. Jen doesn't directly design products. The main task is to ensure that the design meets the brand requirements of twin sister, like supervision. In the early days, the two sisters invited Demos Chiang, the orange fruit, to make product packaging design. In order to get creative inspiration, Demos Chiang once lived in the Shanghai house of grandma Song Meiling for a long time, so that the birth of the twin sisters was full of the smell of old Shanghai. The role of Jen is to bring the latest trend of fashion to both girls, which is also an important factor in the success of all kinds of high-end fashion brands - continuous innovation.

He served as ambassador for 5 years in Berluti (Berluti, LVMH's famous hand-made shoes brand), and served as Dunhill global image and media director in 7 years. The long immersion in the luxury industry has made him clear about the essence of luxury.

At an internal meeting, Jen sometimes brings many famous brand boxes to ask the first choice of members of the group. Coincidentally, everyone chose the box he most admired. "Ya is telling you that such a box design is appealing to the consumer's first feeling, and then analyze where it is. So everyone was convinced of what he said later. Wang Qun, executive director of twin sister, told Global Entrepreneur.

The development of products is often entangled with the positioning of functional products and high-end products, because the experience of Shanghai Jahwa usually comes from functional products, but lacks the understanding and mastery of high-end products.

For the confusion caused by unclear boundaries, Jen eased the case with a car example. The source and design of the brand of a famous car is not simply for the appearance, but for many drivers to feel comfortable in the details. As a driver, sitting in the car does not feel the passage of time - beauty is only a combination of practicality and good design.

On the contrary, the request of the two sisters to ya en is "you have to help us sort out what the two sister brands do and what they do not do." So far, China does not have a successful example of its own high-end fashion brands. "We want to have an international master to help us do it, and we can get more resources to design and plan through him." Wang Qun said.

At the beginning of the listing, the two sisters made a clear self positioning: not only cosmetics, but also derivatives including jewellery products. These products will have many fashionable elements and reflect the background of brand culture. In September of this year, the products of Xinyi series, which were born under the guidance of yahn, went public on schedule. According to Wang Zhuo, deputy general manager of Jahwa, this magazine said: "the height of twin sisters will be higher than that of Herborist. Another difference is that we want to try to go a little wider, not just cosmetics, but also do some accessories, accessories. " Herborist is an independent brand with strong Chinese style in Shanghai's Jahwa banner. In recent years, it has been quite successful in the international market.

The designer of the heart wing series is "returnees" Guo Chunhao. From design, sample to search for craftsmen, the birth of the product took 4230 hours. The designer struggled with every detail, and Jen, on the other hand, gave some guidance, such as the angle of the bird's wings. The proportion of pearls and pearls selected on the bird's body was slightly changed.

The main character of the design is bird, because it appeared in many 1920 to 1940s. One side is nostalgic Shanghai customs, one side is to map contemporary women's spiritual pursuit of freedom. The design of fashion elements will make the white collar and fashionable people more attractive. This mix and match is in line with the twin sisters: "half China, half the West."

Different from the two sisters, the top and bottom is a luxury handicraft brand with distinctive Chinese characteristics, but its style of action contains the spirit of European luxury. The production of products focuses on consummate skills and the use of superior materials. Tang Shidun (Torsten Stocker), a partner of the group, told the magazine.

At the beginning of the birth of the top and bottom, there seems to be no major series. Red sandalwood, cashmere felt, bamboo weaving, thin tire porcelain, hand woven cashmere, jade and agate are dazzling. In fact, these things are connected together -- tea ceremony - traditional Chinese culture. When doing the tea ceremony, the good tea set is necessary. Besides, it also needs comfortable furniture and clothing, so that it can calm the mind, and derive a series of creative works. The theme of the new year is "man and nature", and a tea table compatible with design and high technology is born. Due to the precise handling of the details of structure and technology, it is extremely delicate and sensitive. The subtle wind and grass, even breathing and heartbeat, will make it sway slightly.

The birth of this rocking chair took more than nine months, just like the birth of a real life. The main body of the rosewood, the middle part is a very fine rattan. The shaking frequency of chairs will be adjusted according to the breath of the people sitting on it. "This is the soul of this furniture." Jiang Qionger said. In order to study this sense of balance and support, Qiong er's team spent years.

Most of her design team are Chinese, but they all have experience of studying abroad. "All have to be exposed to Chinese and Western cultures. The double implication is very important. A designer can't make himself a frog in a well. You must have seen it, but you can't follow Westerners. " Jiang Qionger said.

　 Upstream

Although both sisters and designers are trying to highlight their style in design, their market development will not be smooth.

"Chinese consumers may be puzzled by the development of these brands. Because most Chinese consumers will still favour European brands and think they represent higher levels of consumption. Tang Shidun said.

The obstacles faced by twin sisters are more psychological. Chinese people wonder whether China can build high-end fashion brands. When the double sister brand was just created, a deep industry personage said on micro-blog, it is useless for the concept to do well, and the channel will not be approved.

Facts have proved this pessimistic prophecy. "Commercial developers sometimes look down on us." Wang Zhuo said. When many real estate developers and retailers know that they are domestic brands, they will not hesitate to say, "Oh, you are Chinese, so don't come in, we only enter foreign countries."

However, the two sisters do not give up any opportunities, whether they are long efforts in the Peace Hotel or later in Tianzifang and Huaihailu Road. The reason why this is so insistent is that both sisters believe that these sites are consistent with their brand positioning - "East West characteristics blend, Shanghai style culture is strong." Consumers who patronize these places do agree with the brand meaning of the two sisters. The current purchasing rate of the two sisters is about 30%, 13% of the two purchases in six months, and 3% of the two purchases.

"We are sailing against the current, which is the same in channels and consumers. Herborist has not yet fully solved this problem. We must have the spirit of "tough fighting" by Lu Xun. Wang Zhuo said.

Of course, the two sisters are still "conservative". China's local brands are not recognized, do not enjoy the power of trend led, do not enjoy the right to speak, of course, there is no pricing power. In this regard, the two sisters believe that we should adjust to the market acceptance gradually.

Ge Wenyao once said in the company's internal meeting, "we can only sell 600 yuan for the quality of 1000 yuan, so we can only sell 1000 yuan for the quality of 3000 yuan." The overall pricing of twin girls is a core product. Only one main product, Yu Rong frost exceeds 1000 yuan, while the other products are priced at around 300 yuan.

Facts have proved that the two sisters are somewhat conservative, and the most expensive Yu Rong Shuang is the current sales champion of the two sisters. "It shows that customers have higher requirements for good things, because they can bring pleasure." Wang Qun said, "R & D department is also under our pressure to intensify development of some better technology."

Compared with the challenge of dual sister in channel and pricing, the most difficult part of Hermes's top and bottom brands is how to find those handcraft successors who have disappeared.

In fact, although the top and bottom brands were only born for one year, Jiang Qionger has been preparing for this for four years, and the most important work is to find masters and learn skills. In the commercial society, the name of Hermes is like thunder, but those who live in remote areas do not care about it. What they need is the agreement of the mind.

　 "You need him to really agree with our values so that we can get on board." Jiang Qionger said.

Fortunately, Jiang Qionger has a unique way to find them. Because his father was the designer of the Shanghai Museum, she found many high level artisans scattered in the museum through museum resources. Jiang Qiong took the Shanghai cake and went to the master's home. "The first time to go, there is no need to talk much about it, that is, to worship the master, and to respect him first and learn from him." Because he was a master of traditional Chinese painting master Cheng Shifa since his childhood, Jiang Qionger was well versed in the "rules" of his apprentice.

In ancient China, there was no distinction between designers and craftsmen. In modern times, the two are completely separated. The integration of the three elements of "human, material and art" is another difficult problem.

There must be a crash. Some teachers who believe in craft are accustomed to their traditional practices. For example, the thin and thin porcelain on the top and bottom needs to be fired at 1200 degree high temperature, while the traditional process is only 800 degrees. Shifu sometimes do not understand: "why should it be so high? The success rate of using 800 degrees is not higher?"

In order to solve the difference between "brain" and "hand", "tradition" and "modern", Jiang Qionger converged artisans and designers to the design center. Stay together for one month or half a year so that both sides can communicate with each other in high density in ways and means.

In explaining the origin of the "up and down" brand, Jiang Qionger said that everything in the world will have reincarnation, there are ups and down. "The traditional handicraft in China is now down, but it will come up one day."

Most of her craftsmen are from 60 to 70 years old. Although some children also want to take over, the inheritance of Chinese handicrafts is not optimistic due to income constraints.

"Without a stable business platform, only by simple inheritance can Chinese traditional handicrafts fail to pass." When there is a stable, high-end business platform to support, this water flows up, good handicrafts can be passed down. Jiang Qionger said.

　　 The most luxurious time

No matter how well prepared, the first crabs will eventually suffer the risk that the pioneers can not avoid.

The highest level of Jahwa in Shanghai is optimistic about this early exploration. They believe that the launch of the strategy is absolutely right. They will not compromise with opportunism, but must be determined, dare and be good at sticking to it. Because they believe that the consumption culture of China's high-end market will soon see a turning point. "Our competition with western enterprises has reached a new turning point. This is a new level and a new trend." Wang Zhuo said.

Herborist's success or permission is endorsed, and foreigners' recognition of "made in Shanghai" is higher than "made in China". Nevertheless, the difficulty is still beyond expectations. "Jahwa is done earlier, but this road will be more difficult than we thought." Wang Zhuo told the journal, "time is our better friend, but time can not be artificially advanced." The time of Shanghai Jahwa's Enlightenment market is three years.

By contrast, the upper and lower parent companies can tolerate longer training time. Hermes not only has rich experience in the luxury goods industry, but also has strong financial resources. The Hermes group's persistence in the attitude and handicraft of luxury goods made it the only company in the financial crisis that did not fall or rise. For a family brand of more than 100 years, Hermes can fully understand how much time a brand needs to be born and nurture, and how to maintain respect for traditional handicrafts in turbulent times.

"So precious is the time in this world. So far, we have been saying "To take enough time to do SHANGXIA well.", but who in the world will tell you no hurry, very little, so looking up and down to find Hermes is also a blessing. Jiang Qionger sighed.

Before he worked with Hermes and collaborated, Chiang ran his own studio. This time and in cooperation, she also has her own share. Jiang Qionger invited Lang Feicheng, President of L'OREAL Cosmetics Department of China (Philippe Lamy), as COO, to help better and better conduct commercial operation. Up and down is a unique brand, dedicated to inheriting Chinese traditional handicrafts and introducing it into contemporary life, drawing inspiration from the long history and culture, and creating high-quality household and living goods. As a result, there is no direct experience to learn from, and can only grow in constant learning and exploration. "We are creating a new thing today, so there is no market research to serve you. This is a new direction. " Jiang Qionger said.

In the works above and below, we can not find the Chinese elements that are popular in the luxury brand nowadays. Dragon, Phoenix and peony do not exist at all, leaving only China's "God" - this is achieved through the combination of traditional Chinese handicrafts and modern design.

This traditional spiritual connection really depends on the precipitation of time. "Forcing a master to rush me out of the bamboo weaving tea set, then don't do it. It's boring. There's no need for the last thing to come out." Chiang Qiong said, "the so-called luxury is actually time and emotion. You don't have enough time to play luxury, because you can't rush out."

In fact, no matter whether we advocate handwork, whether it is up or down or double sister, Chinese luxury goods as a special community need a long-term cultivation to meet the mature conditions in many aspects.

In 2007, Jahwa submitted a plan for the development of the fashion industry to the Shanghai government. It suggested that the government should enhance the image of a city instead of an enterprise, but rely on many enterprises. The report touched on the government, and then the Shanghai government began to help arts companies.

The rise of China's luxury brands depends only on government encouragement and the injection of Chinese elements, which can not guarantee success. "I find it very difficult. What China lacks is money, but patience." Jiang Qionger said. "The rise of China's luxury brands, whether it is Chinese enterprises or foreign enterprises, in addition to economic capacity, but also to achieve a certain understanding of the spirit."

The Chinese society's desire to extravagance over luxury goods needs to be restored. It may take longer than expected. This may delay the rise of China's independent luxury brands. "Their payback may be a little slower, but I think it's not important, but what's important is that they can persist in doing what they should do." Tang Shidun said to Global Entrepreneur. "Maybe ten years later, people will say that they are pioneers and have advanced consciousness to enter China's high-end fashion industry and luxury goods industry. And by that time, they will be successful in business. "

Jiang Qionger insisted on putting it in the "one hundred or two hundred year time tunnel", "when you use this life length to see, even ten years is only 1/10 in 100 years." She said.