The Chinese Tunic Suit Is Closely Related To The Red Gang Tailor.
Figure Sun Zhongshan wears a Chinese tunic suit with 7 buttons.
The Wang Shuntai suit advertisement, published on the front page of the Republic of China Daily in March 30, 1927, strongly proves that the red gang tailor is also the type and promoter of the Zhongshan suit.
5 pairs of buttons, 4 Lapel pockets, and two front pockets.
The distinctive Chinese tunic suit, as the most representative garment in twentieth Century, has a profound influence on Chinese costumes.
This is a contribution made by the Ningbo red gang tailor as a pioneer of modern Chinese clothing to the revolution of 1911.
Recently, the exhibition of "the revolution of 1911 and the great changes in Chinese costume" of the Ningbo clothing Museum showed the contribution of Ningbo red gang tailor in the process of creating, perfecting and popularizing the Chinese tunic suit.
"From the earliest Chinese tunic suit to the perfect assembly and then to the Mao style Zhongshan suit, every improvement and change of the Chinese tunic suit is closely related to the tailor of Ningbo red gang."
Chen Wanfeng, a member of the Chinese Academy of museums who was involved in the preparation of the Ningbo Museum of clothing, the vice president of the Ningbo Museum Association and the Hong Kong tailor research expert, said.
Initial system
The tailor tailored the earliest Chinese tunic suit.
The revolution of 1911 not only overthrew the autocratic rule of the Qing Dynasty for hundreds of years, but also overthrew China's clothing system, which took thousands of years as the core of hierarchy, and directly led to the pformation of the clothing system.
Sun Zhongshan integrated the characteristics of Chinese and Western costumes and created the Zhongshan costume.
"The first Chinese tunic producer is Zhang Fangcheng, the third generation of Hong Gang successor."
Chen Wanfeng introduced that in 1905, Sun Zhongshan, at the invitation of students from China and Tokyo, Japan and overseas Chinese, attended the welcoming conference held by more than 1300 students from Tokyo, and often met with patriots in Yokohama and Osaka.
This is the time when Zhang Fangcheng, the grandson of Zhang Shangyi, the founder of the red gang, flourished.
At that time, comrade Sun Zhongshan and Huang Xing and other revolutionary comrades often went to Zhang Fangcheng's synonymous Chang woolen clothing shop, and entrusted the intention of creating new Chinese clothing to overseas Chinese such as Zhang Fangcheng.
According to Sun Zhongshan and others, this group of red gang tailors, who have long been known in the Japanese clothing industry, adopted the modeling and making techniques of western style clothes, referring to the reform ideas of Japanese student suits and official uniform, and based on Chinese people's physique, temperament and new trends of social life, integrated into the Chinese dress culture tradition, and manufactured the early Chinese tunic suit.
"The original Zhongshan suit is a closed eight neckline neckline, with sleeves, 9 buttons on front door buttons, a straight seam in the center of the back, and a broad belt type horizontal pleat on the waist, and a stickup bag on the front side of the garment, on top and bottom, and a bag cover on the pocket."
Chen Wanfeng introduced.
finalize the makeup of a role
Set up by the tailor's tailor's shop in Shanghai.
Not only did the design of the Zhongshan suit have the merit of the red band tailor, but the improvement and fixing of the Chinese tunic suit were also closely related to the red gang tailor.
After the revolution of 1911, Mr. Sun Zhongshan brought the early Chinese tunic made in Japan to the famous red gang tailor shop in Shanghai, which was called "Rong Changxiang" (opened by Fenghua people Wang Caiyun), and asked for a new set of four patch bags with straight lapel and bag cover.
Later, the Chinese tunic suit took the dress as the female parent.
Ningbo red gang tailor made the first set of tunic, which has been questioned.
But in August 2009, Chen Wanfeng found evidence in two advertisements on the front page of the Republic of China Daily collected in the Shanghai Library in March 26, 1927 and March 30th.
One of them is the "Rong Changxiang" advertisement: "the people must have Chinese tunic clothes.
The style is accurate and the price is cheap.
Mr. Sun Zhongshan made a lot of praise when he made a custom in the trumpet.
Our number is based on this pattern.
When the national revolutionary army arrived in Shanghai, our price was very low for the sake of clothing.
If you are happy, we would like to welcome you. "
Since March 26th, "Rong Changxiang" has been advertising for three days.
The other is the advertisement published in the March 30th "Wang Shuntai suit".
What is the style of Mr. Zhongshan's clothing? It should also be noticed by my comrades.
The former is the head of Mr. Zhongshan, who is awarded the prize of deep clothing.
We should take the standard as the standard for the public to prepare. "
Chen Wanfeng told reporters, "Rongchang Xiang" founder Wang Caiyun, "Wang Shuntai" manager Wang Fuqing, are today Fenghua Jiangkou street Wang Shupu village.
The information in the advertisement shows that both of the clothes shops have made costumes for Sun Zhongshan's life and won the "commendation" and "praise" of Mr. Sun Zhongshan. He also advocated the production of Chinese tunic suits for the people with Sun Zhongshan costumes as the "standard". This proves that Mr. Sun Zhongshan's made Chinese tunic suits were established and popularized by the Shanghai tailor's tailor's tailor's shop in Zhongshan.
Upsurge
The red gang tailor sewed "Mao Zhongshan suit".
Chen Wanfeng introduced that Mao Zedong loved to wear Chinese tunic suits before his death.
Starting from the Eighth National Congress of the 1956, the Mao style tunic worn by Mao Zedong was made by Hong Bang tailor.
In the 50s of last century, the central government dispatched about 250 red gang tailors to Shanghai, such as Mao Zedong, Liu Shaoji and Zhou Enlai, to set up a special accounting office for the first generation of Party and state leaders.
Later, the special accounting office was pformed into a red capital clothing store and continued to customize clothing for the central leaders.
"Hongdu clothing shop" has been the three generation of managers who came from Hongbang tailors.
Among them, the second manager Wang Tingmiao (a village in Yin county) is one of the best skills.
During the Eighth National Congress of the CPC in 1956, Wang Tingmiao and Tian Tong were instructed to design and make a new Chinese tunic suit for Chairman Mao.
Wang Tingmiao and others, according to Chairman Mao's physique, facial features and temperament characteristics, put the top two pockets of the pocket cover to be bent and pointed, so as to make the clothes appear more vigorous and dynamic; shoulder pads slightly upturned, the two shoulders are even more smooth; the neckline is big, the lapel is big, completely changing the style of fastening the throat.
The clothing on Chairman Mao's portrait above the Tiananmen is the "Mao style clothing".
Mao Zedong liked to wear this improved Chinese tunic suit during his lifetime.
Later, with the popularity of the Chinese tunic suit, more and more people wore tunic suits. By the 50s and 60s of last century, the Chinese tunic suit on the Chinese land had been formed.
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