Western Women'S Clothing In The Tang Dynasty

From the Sui Dynasty to the early Tang Dynasty, women's clothing, especially the dress of the ladies, basically followed the northern and Southern Dynasties.

The western region, located on the border of the motherland, has been a multi-ethnic area since ancient times. It is also a hub for the integration of the Central Plains culture and the western and Western cultures. The influence of the Tang government on the effective management of the western regions and the culture of the Central Plains has made Western costumes, especially women's costumes, have a colorful look.

The archaeological workers in Xinjiang excavated a lot of valuable cultural relics such as wooden figurines, mud figurines and silk paintings in the Turpan area, which provided us with an invaluable image for us to understand the Western women's costumes in the Tang Dynasty.

From the cultural relics unearthed from Ashtar, Turpan, we can see that the western region women's clothing represented by the Turpan area has the characteristics of the Central Plains culture. At the same time, compared with the Chinese style wide sleeved robe, the right chest and the deep clothing, the local color and national style are more obvious.

1, skirt

The life of women in the Tang Dynasty was based on the tradition of the Central Plains dress, absorbing western cultures and other cultures.

No matter what is expensive or cheap, it is usually made up of three parts, namely, a shirt or a skirt, a skirt, etc.

The skirt appeared in the Western Jin Dynasty, such as Fu Xuan in the Western Jin Dynasty.

The skirt is mainly made up of short skirts or long sleeves with silk and half arms. This suit was introduced into the western region of the Gao Chang area in the Tang Dynasty and became the fashion dress of the local women.

At that time, in order to show their beautiful figure, most women in western regions liked to wear bright coloured sleeves and short skirts and close skirts. In 1973, a female figurine unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar 206, Turpan, was wearing a green narrow sleeves and short sleeves. It was worn outside the waist with a tight half arm garment. The waist was red and yellow, and the narrow skirt stretched across the narrow skirt, showing the style of women wearing narrow sleeves and long skirts in the early Tang Dynasty.

2.

It is a common coat in ancient China.

In the book of rites, the inner rule is: "the boy has lived abroad for ten years and has lived abroad. He studied books and made clothes."

Xu Shen's Shuwen Wen Bu: "short, short clothes."

Generally, both men and women can be dressed. After the Eastern Han Dynasty, they became a kind of dress for women. They had different lengths.

Han women wore long sleeves, and their sleeves were hypertrophy.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties and the Tang Dynasty, the narrow sleeves and short children were very popular in the Central Plains because of the influence of nomadic culture in the north.

Because this short sleeved short baby is not only conducive to doing things, but also shows the shape of the woman, so it is loved by young women.

A female figurine unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar, 206, was worn with short skirts. The dress was open with no ties, and the hem part was in the waist.

3, half arm

The half arm is a very common new dress in the Tang dynasty women's wear. It is a short sleeved jacket with no ties. It is only worn on the front of the chest with the tie on the skirt. It is worn in the skirt waist or around the skirt waist.

The female figurine unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar 206 is wearing a tight half arm garment, with a style of "V" collar, two sleeves and only half of the human arm.

Half arms can be seen in the grotto frescoes of Xinjiang's GZI.

In western regions, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and the half arm type coat is very suitable for local climate change.

Half arms are usually made of brocade with better texture.

In the new geography of the Tang Dynasty, there was a "half arm" in the tribute of Yangzhou at that time.

The materials and patterns of the half arms are very sophisticated.

In the Tang children's song by Li He, there is a sentence of "silver Luan eating half naked arms", which may be a half arm woven with silver thread.

The female dancer unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar 206, though not made of silver thread, wore a half arm, but its fabric was a very precious and colorful bead motif at that time.

The beads are usually regarded as a kind of ornamentation in the Persian sage Dynasty.

The "Lian Zhu Zun Jin" has been excavated in the ancient tomb of Ashtar, Turpan. Its organizational structure is not only the plain weave brocade, but also the weft weft brocade with weft lines, and its ornamentation is very rich. There are many decorative patterns on the duck pattern brocade, the chicken brocade, the lion striped brocade, the deer brocade, the Xiong Wenjin, the peacock brocade, and so on.

The two female beads are distributed on both sides of the front chest, highlighting the beauty and decorative themes of the ornamentation, revealing the traces of the interaction between East and west cultures.

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4, wear silk

Silk is also a kind of dress adornment around the shoulders.

"Shing Ming and Jie Yi" said, "you can't put your shoulders behind your shoulders."

In the Song Dynasty, Gao Cheng's "Ji Ji Yuan" introduced the "two instrument records".

From this we can see that the costumes of drapery and silk have appeared in the Central Plains area during the Qin and Han Dynasties.

In 1995, archaeologists discovered a well preserved silk woven silk cloth in the tomb of Ni Ya in Minfeng County, Han and Jin Dynasties in Xinjiang.

In various ethnic costumes around China, some countries near Persia and Persia also used silk draping.

"The old Tang Dynasty Persian biography" records: "Persia, husbands, clothes can not be banned, and there is a cloth."

In Europe, the United States, Iran and other countries, there are also Persian women figures in the Persian szhan Dynasty's gold and silver designs, which shows that this dress is very popular in Western Asia during the Jin and Tang Dynasties.

We can see from the grottoes frescoes and other places, the image of flying Apsaras and the supporting people wearing silk.

The records of "Fei Luo Zi Zi", "green Ling Zi Zi", "purple small Ling Zi Zi", "Bai Xiaoling scarf" and "Fei Luo scarf" in Turpan's unearthed documents show that the texture and color of the silk worn by Western women are various. The scarf here may be a triangular scarf.

The female figurine unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar 206 is rectangular in shape. The fabric is orange yellow, with a fish shaped shape, and it is light and gorgeous.

5, skirt

Skirt is a kind of dress that best represents women's personality.

Young women in the Tang Dynasty liked wearing red skirts best, especially in Kabuki.

Bai Juyi's "blood color skirt wine turn pollution", Li Bai's "moving boat Mulan Zhuo, the wine goes up the dress", Wan Chu's "eyebrow Daisy wins the Xuan grass color, the red skirt is jealous to kill pomegranate flower", all is describes the song and dance woman's beautiful sentence.

At that time, the color of the red skirt was mainly extracted from pomegranate flowers, so people also called the red skirt "stone skirt".

Western women have a special liking for the red skirt. The picture of the lady in unearthed screen of Ashtar 230 tomb is a beautiful lady with graceful figure and elegant appearance. Her bun is tall, and she wears a collars without a collar and a half arm with a flower. She is wearing a colorful red dress.

Western women also like to wear yellow, green, blue, white, green, red, pink, brown and other colors of skirt, and two more than the coloured fabric matching long skirt, such as the Ashtar 206 tomb unearthed female dance Figurine under the red and yellow color fabric sewing long skirt, waist width 1 centimeters, 10 cm long ribbon, it is extraordinarily charming.

The style of the skirt is mainly made up of two types of chest and waist waist. At that time, the western style was a narrow dress with body fitted style, and the skirt was also favored by Western women.

It is one of the main characteristics of the western region women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty.

This skirt is made of 22 crimson silks with a width of 3 cm and a width of 11 cm long.

From the archaeological unearthed situation, the Western District Women's skirt is very rich in texture, including silk, silk, unadorned, yarn, Luo, Qi, etc. the green silk printed silk skirt and the printed silk skirt of the female figurines unearthed from the tomb of the artha Tang tomb are not only colorful, soft and fine, but also contain very exquisite patterns of flowers and birds, which are full of strong interest in life.

6. Power.

In Northwest China, sandstorms are more frequent. In order to avoid wind and sand, women in western regions like to wear a headwear called power.

It is a kind of gauze covering the whole body from the beginning and down, which is available to both men and women in the western region.

The book of Sui and the biography of the state records: "the skin is the cap, the circle is like a bowl, or the power is worn".

The heroine next to the Japanese National Museum of Tokyo, which was excavated in Turpan's ancient tomb, was accompanied by a maid, wearing a robe and holding the power on the head with the right hand. The power was made of black cloth and the length was about the chest, exposing the human eye and nose, and the rest was completely obstructed.

A painted horse riding Figurine unearthed from the 222 Tomb of Ashtar is also worn on the head, but the shape is different from the power mentioned above. The black cloth is covered on the cap of the female figurine, exposing the face, not covering the whole body, like the headscarf of the rural woman now.

In the western region, it was mainly used to cover sand and dust. When it was sent to the Central Plains, it soon found its soil, which was in line with the traditional etiquette of "giving men and women not to be loved".

During the Northern Zhou Dynasty, the court ruled that women should wear power when they went out.

"The old Tang Dynasty system of public service" records: "in the martial arts and Zhenguan period, the horse riders of the palace are in many powers according to Qi Sui's old system. Although they are from the army and the whole body is obstructing, they do not want to see the way through the road".

7, curtain cap

Wearing a hat is the unique interest of Western women.

It is generally believed that the drapes are rebuilt on the basis of power. The main body is a rigid vine or mat, which is used as a skeleton, with cloth and silk stretched on the top, and a circular screen with a length of yarn equal to the neck of the human body.

It can't cover the face like a power.

"The old Tang Dynasty system of public service" records: "after the emblem, all use the hat, drag skirt to neck, gradually become shallow dew......"

After the day, the canopy is large and the power is gradually reduced.

Chung Chung took the throne, the palace was wide and the public and private women had no power. "

During the middle Tang Dynasty, especially during the reign of Wu Zetian, the social atmosphere became increasingly open, and the restraint of feudal manners and rules on dress was impacted. The hat, a headwear that could better publicize the feminine personality compared with the power, was more and more popular among young women, especially in the central Plains.

A painted horse riding terracotta unearthed from the tomb of Ashtar 187 reproduced the scene of a western high Korean woman wearing a headgear riding a horse.

She was wearing a breasts, narrow sleeves and long trousers, and a horse's horseback on the horse's back. The veil of the hat was still floating. It fully showed the elegant and dignified temperament and colorful features of the Western women in the Tang Dynasty.

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8, Hu Mao

In the region, the hat worn by the residents of the minority areas is often called "Hu hat". Due to the cold weather in the western region, people in the western regions in the pre Qin, Han, Jin and southern and Northern Dynasties generally wore their caps. This is also true in the Tang Dynasty. However, from the perspective of archaeological excavation, the material of women's hat is not very common. They are only seen in a silk painting "happy trick picture" unearthed in the tomb of the tomb of the tomb of altenn Tang. In the picture, a young and beautiful Western woman, dressed in a brightly colored jacket, holding a Guqin and a high hat on her head, looks like a bright silk fabric and embroidered with beautiful patterns. Central Plains

This hat is mainly characterized by the combination of left and right ear protectors and hats, which naturally hang down and are very practical in winter. Therefore, some scholars call them "ear cap".

In the Tang Dynasty, with the introduction of music and dance in the western regions, the clothes worn by the dancers were accepted by the Central Plains residents.

From the "Hu Teng dance" introduced by the "Shi Guo" in the western region, the dancers wore a "woven hat" with a false top, such as the poet Liu Yanshi's "Wang Zhongcheng house night watching dance Hetun" poem "Shi Guo hu er rare", squatting dance before the bottle as anxious as a bird, weaving into a hat hat virtual top, thin felt Hu shirt and double sleeves small.

"Muddy hat" is also a kind of hat in the western region. The uncovered hat of paper in Turpan is unearthed. It is similar to the hat, but has no weft, and is blackened and painted with patterns.

At that time, the hats that people wore were supposed to be made of animal skins, felt or thick fabrics.

After the hat was introduced into the Central Plains, it was loved by the nobles and princes.

9, shoes

From the archaeological data, women's shoes in the western region of the Tang Dynasty can be divided into two types: high head and flat head.

The high head shoe is also called the warped head. The women in the screen painting of the statue of the statue in the 230 of the tomb of Ashtar are dressed in shoes. They are warped on their heads, and their shoes are upturned and decorated with patterns.

The front head with a raised head can support the long skirt to facilitate walking.

In the tomb of asna Tang, there were also raised heads and unearthed ones, such as a pair of Tang Dynasty variants of treasure flower, Yun tou Jin shoes unearthed from tomb 381, 1969, 29.7 centimeters long, 8.8 centimeters wide and 8.3 centimeters high.

The upper, the toe and the inside of the shoes are made of high quality fabrics, especially in the shoes, which are decorated with blue, green, scarlet, crimson, egg white, yellow and seven colors. The blue, red, crimson, and egg green four colors are faint.

This is the most luxurious halo color brocade variety in the Tang Dynasty colored stripes.

The vamp is a gorgeous variant of the treasure pattern, with a tweed brocade made of big red, pink, white, dark green, green, yellow, blue, and Mo Zi eight colored silk. The design is red multicolored flower, with the flowers and flowers in the center, surrounded by rare birds and animals, cirrus clouds and rosy flowers.

The toe of the head has a high cloud head shape.

This pair of cloud top brocade shoes fully shows the artistic achievements of the three combinations of brocade, color matching and flower appreciation in the Mid Tang Dynasty. It is one of the rare products in the Tang Dynasty.

Western women's flat shoes include flax shoes, Pu shoes and leather shoes.

The shoes made of twine are called shoes, also known as line shoes, such as a pair of hemp shoes unearthed from the tomb of the Asinas Tang. They are knitted with thick hemp rope and made of thick hemp rope.

The vamp structure is sparse and the middle is woven into hollows, which is similar to modern sandals.

Several maids in the map of "go chess ladies" unearthed from Ashtar tomb 187 also wore such shoes, indicating that the shoes were commonly worn by residents in the western regions of the Tang Dynasty.

Hemp shoes are not traditional shoes in the western regions. They should be imported from the mainland.

But the mainland's line shoes are different from the inferior shoes worn by the ladies in the picture of the go chess, but the luxuries of the noble women's fashion in the capital, such as the old Tang Dynasty public service system: "Wu Delai, the regulation of women's performance is also important.

And wired boots.

In Kaiyuan, women wear shoes, which are easy and easy to handle.

A servant is a servant.

The image of the linen shoes has many reflections in the paintings of the Tang Dynasty, and the maids in Yan Liben's "step carriage diagram" are all wearing flax shoes.

In addition, the stone carvings excavated from Tang Wei Township tomb in Changan, Shaanxi, and the murals excavated from the Tang Li Shuang tomb in Xi'an all bear the image of wearing shoes.

Archaeologists also found cattail shoes, which were imported from the Central Plains, mostly worn by people in summer.

For example, the biography of Liang Shu and Zhang Xiaoxiu said: "filial piety is not easy to do, but it is not good to be flashy."

In the picture of Han Xizai's banquet painted by Gu Hong, the five generation painter, you can also see the specific image of PU shoe at that time.

Leather shoes are very durable compared with hemp shoes and Pu shoes, and 8 pairs of leather shoes have been unearthed from the tomb of the sta Na Tang. The sole is made of coarse hemp thread, and the upper is made of leather, shoes lined with felt, and sewn with hemp thread. It looks strong and durable. It should be made by a craftsman.