Chen Wanfeng: The Symbolic Meaning Of Four Pockets And Buttons Of The Chinese Tunic Suit

Chen Wanfeng (hereinafter referred to as "Chen"): in the Republic of China, the Chinese tunic suit was the national revolution. Symbolize 。 Many patriots saw a large number of imported suits and woolen fabrics, which made countless Chinese silver flows. They called for the promotion of domestic goods, hoping to combine easy clothes with the protection of domestic goods. At the same time, with the vigorous promotion of the government at that time, the Chinese tunic suit became popular. After the founding of new China, leaders like to wear Chinese tunic suits and Chinese tunic suits gradually become the typical modern clothing in China.

　　 Reporter There are many changes in costume in Chinese history. What is the difference between the changes in the Chinese tunic suit?

Chen: there are 3 major changes in China's meaningful clothing: in the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, Zhao Wuling's Hu Fu riding and shooting; Wei Xiaowen emperor Tuoba Hong fully carried out the Chinese costume; the emperors in the Tang Dynasty viewed the costumes of all nationalities in all directions and chose them for their own use. But these reforms are not anti traditional in the traditional scope, but are not fundamentally touching the level of feudalism in clothing. concept Some improvements under the principles. The background of Zhongshan suit is different.

　　 Reporter Then what is the significance of it?

Chen: the revolution of 1911 not only overthrew the feudal autocratic system which lasted for two thousand years, but also established a new political power and a traditional crown. Clothes & Accessories Along with its strict hierarchy and etiquette rules, it also lost the protection of the law. Accompanied by the establishment of the new social system, there was a call for reform of the system of service. Sun Zhongshan's action of easy service is an important part of his revolutionary struggle against feudalism and democracy. From the later development, the creation, perfection and popularization of the Chinese tunic suit is one of the greatest changes in the history of Chinese clothing, and its influence on the later generations is far beyond the clothing itself. {page_break}

　　 Four pocket, and an ideal.

The four pockets of the front pocket represent the four dimensions of the country, the five buttons on the front, the separation of five powers, the three buttons on the cuffs, the three principles of the people, and the two inverted chest pocket, which means that the revolution depends on the intellectuals.

This is a Chinese tunic suit with handsome and handsome spirit and national charm. After the revolution of 1911, the braided campaign was boiling and the Chinese tunic suit prevailed.

　　 Born, Sun Zhongshan came to be a model.

In 1895, after the failure of the Guangzhou uprising, Sun Zhongshan fled to Yokohama, Japan. Starting from the purpose of reflecting the new look of the new regime, Mr. Sun Zhongshan began to conceive of the new style of clothing.

Chen Wanfeng, former curator of the Ningbo clothing Museum, said that the original Zhongshan pretended to be a closed eight figure neckline, with 9 buttons on the front pleat, and a waist type expansion pleat, which was confirmed by Sun Zhongshan.

After the revolution of 1911, Mr. Sun Zhongshan brought the Japanese army uniform, the student suit and the early Chinese tunic suit made in Japan to the famous red gang tailor shop in Shanghai, "Rong Changxiang", and asked for a new set of four bags with straight lapel and bag cover. After the dress was made by Sun Zhongshan, it was considered that the style was simple and dignified, better than the suit. It was much improved than the early Zhongshan made in Yokohama. Later, the suit was made as the female parent and the Chinese tunic suit was made.

In 1925, Mr. Sun Zhongshan died. In commemoration of Mr. Sun Zhongshan's immortal contribution to the Chinese revolution, the revolutionary government of Guangzhou established the name of "Zhongshan suit".

　　 Prevail Chinese tunic suit The hardest part is collar.

Jiang Jiming, a 79 year old red gang successor, has made hundreds of Chinese tunic suits in his lifetime. In the 60s of the last century, during the flourishing period of Chinese tunic suit, he was working in the "Luo Xi Xi clothes shop" of e Mei Road in Hongkou District, Shanghai.

"The most difficult thing to do in a Chinese tunic is the collar. The collar should be centered. The two corners should not be big enough to be" mounted ". The size should be right and comfortable. Jiang Jiming said that to make a high-end Chinese tunic suit, it started with fine woollen or blended wool such as Hua Dane and tweed, so as to keep it straight, round and thick. Later, with the popularity of Chinese tunic suits, ordinary cloth can also be used as a Chinese tunic suit. As a result, more and more people wear Chinese tunic suits, and in 50s and 60s twentieth Century, the Chinese tunic suit became hot.

That's probably the most beautiful time for Chinese tunic suits. Jiang Jiming still remembered that in the 70s of last century, he used his long gown to make a fine set of grey tunic for himself. "I remember that Shanghai Hongkou clothing and footwear company asked me to measure the size of the East China Sea Fleet commander, and I wore this set of neat Chinese tunic suit. The commander also praised me:" the young man is very spirit. " {page_break}

　　 Evolution, many clothing has its shadow.

As the most representative clothing of China in twentieth Century, the Chinese tunic suit has a deep influence on Chinese clothing. The uniforms of the New Fourth Army, the Eight Route Army and the PLA are all changed by the Zhongshan suit. After 1950s, people innovated according to the basic styles of the Chinese tunic suit and designed "people's clothes", "youth clothes", "student clothes" and "military casual wear".

"These new styles of clothing obviously have the shadow of Chinese tunic suit, but they all have reform. For example, the collar changes greatly, the collar opens, the lapel grows from small to large, and the larynx is emancipated from the clasp. Chen Wanfeng said.

"Mao's clothing" is the most distinctive and successful masterpiece of Zhongshan dress reform. In 1957, Hongdu clothing store accepted the task of making Chinese tunic for Chairman Mao. The red gang tailor Tian Tong did not copy the original style and shape of the Chinese tunic suit, but made a ingenious reform according to Mao Zedong's face shape, figure and temperament characteristics. He turned the top two pockets of the pocket into a curved and pointed one, which made the clothes more vibrant and dynamic; the shoulder pads were slightly upturned, the two shoulders were even more smooth, the collar changes greatly, the neckline was big, the lapel was big, and the style of the tightly clasped throat was completely changed.

Mao Zedong likes to wear this improved Chinese tunic suit and wear this kind of dress on various formal occasions. And the central leaders have followed suit, whether they accept the Chinese tunic suit at home or abroad. The Mao style tunic is known for its influence.