Miao Nationality'S Embroidered Clothes Of The Xi Dynasty -- The Historical Books Worn On Them

Located in the central part of Qiandongnan, along the lower reaches of Qingshui River, there are some mountains in the four townships of Guan Yao, min Dong, Nan Zhai and Nan Jia.

The expression of embroidery materials, processing, technology and cultural symbols is different.

At present, it is the only remaining embroidery in the world.

So far, this process has continued to use traditional bamboo and wooden apparatus and handcraft from various aspects such as dewing, spinning, weaving, dyeing, embroidery and finished products.

Modern civilization has been constantly affecting people's lives, and has greatly improved the material conditions and spiritual environment of human life. However, in the various regions where the Miao tribes live, traditional production methods, folklore, architecture and costumes are showing ancient traces of ancient farming civilization everywhere.

The clothing of Miao people has a history of "wearing on the body". Its history is far away and its origin has not been studied yet.

According to the ancient song of Miao nationality, the Miao nationality moved to Jianhe in the late Tang Dynasty and early Song Dynasty. Up to now, it has been more than one thousand years ago.

Tin embroidered dress is the most unique of the twelve Miao costumes in the county. From the perspective of appearance, the characteristics of the embroidery and costume products of the Xi embroidery are simple and simple.

It is necessary to further investigate whether there is a necessary connection between the use of metal tin and the function of armor.

In 2008, when we conducted a census of "Miao silver decoration skills", we unexpectedly discovered that the silver lock (chest ornament) worn on the early Miao costumes was evolved from the concept of the cold weapon era with the defensive function of the protective mirror and the Miao witchcraft concept.

The culture of tin embroidery is unique and mysterious. Following the inspection of the British royal art Laureate, miss JALIS, who led the delegation to Liu Fu Village, Nan Zhai Township in 1997, experts and scholars from the United States, Japan, Britain, France, Holland and other countries came and gathered in a bid to explore and unveil their mysterious veil.

Subsequently, the Chinese art gallery also collected.

The characteristic of tin embroidery is to use metal tin to finish a piece of embroidery, which is unique in the history of Arts and crafts in the world.

Its visual effect is the silver colored small tin Festival on the rugged dark fabric. Therefore, it is strong, simple and vivid, especially in the sun, with the silver ornaments worn by the Miao girls at the same time. It is brightly shining and its colors are noble and elegant. The maps used in the decorations are highly abstract geometric patterns. This feature is also different from other traditional Miao embroidery and the figurative designs adopted by the local Suzhou, Hunan, Beijing, Guangdong, Shu, ou and Gu embroidery categories, but similar to the Arabia national patterns of Islam.

In terms of color, the main body of tin embroidery is mainly composed of natural tint of metal tin. Although it is also accompanied by colorful, dark, red, blue and green colors, it has a sharp contrast with tin embroidery and other colorful traditional Chinese embroidery. The color of tin embroidery is simple and noble.

Tin embroidery is used in clothing. It is divided into three parts. Except for the summer clothing, the back ornaments are sewn on the top of the jacket and have a natural "raindrop line". The front and rear skirts are all made up of independent decorative pieces on the waist and are covered with pleated skirts.

The front apron is about 17.7 cm wide, about 44 cm long, and the rear skirt is about 19.5 cm wide, about 46 cm long. The back ornament is about 17.2 cm wide and about 20 cm long. The raindrop line is equal to the width of the ornament, and is 41 centimeters long.

The difference between the front apron and the back and back trim is that the overall effect of the front apron is a simple black silver flower with a slightly larger pattern.

Although the pattern of tin embroidery is made up of seemingly identical geometric patterns, it seems to have a definite symbol and implication in the connection and distribution. With the most typical post skirt as an example, the symbolic daughter pattern, fish pattern, ridge Bay, chicken feet, flower clusters, cattle saddle, scale hook, small head, old man's head, woodworking curved ruler, rake pattern, mountain ridge, roof ridge and so on all embody the most primitive life yearning of Miao women.

The technique of tin embroidery, the front apron of front embroidered ornaments (front pendulum) and the back skirt (Hou Bai) and the back decorations are not only different in pattern, but also different in the technological process.

The front swing is first made with black cotton thread on the undyed white cloth, and then the pattern is embroidered. Finally, the cotton thread on the pattern is picked out, and then the thread is threaded and trimmed into it. The fabric used for back and back is woven with pre colored dyed cotton yarn (dark tone) according to a certain pattern.

The shading embroidery is divided into two processes. First, the embroidery is made with a single colored cotton thread according to the traditional pattern, and then embroidered with a colored silk thread in the gap between the patterns. Finally, the thread is finished with the tin thread along the monochromatic pattern. The effect is that the silk thread embroidered colored flowers can be seen in the gap of the tin pattern.

Tin used for the last working procedure of tin embroidery was purchased from the peddler at the early stage. After pouring the tin ingots into the stone plate, the tin plate was repeatedly hammered into thin sheets, and then cut into embroidery.

The inheritance of tin embroidery belongs to the Miao nationality matriarchal culture, and its skills are numerous and complicated.

Miao girls often learn from their mother's words and deeds.

The sample of tin embroidery is different from the paper cut or hand-painted manuscript used by other embroidery types of the Miao people. When the woman is married, the mother will embroider all kinds of embroidered pieces of traditional patterns as gifts to accompany her, so she will follow the generations.

Tin embroidery is unique in technology, strong in technology and long in consumption. The Miao girls in the branch do not participate in heavy labor before marriage. After their leisure time, they gather together in small groups, embroidering dowry for themselves, and can do two sets before marriage.

In 2006, Jianhe embroidery, represented by tin embroidery technology, was published by the State Council as the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.

In 2009, Miao embroidery embroidered evening dress designed by Ms. Lin Xuefei, a famous fashion designer, was featured in the European wedding dress show in Stockholm, Sweden.