Miao Embroidery Of National Intangible Cultural Heritage

I. Introduction

Miao embroidery refers to the Miao people's folk heritage.

Miao embroidery is mainly distributed in Lei Shan county, Guizhou province.

Two. Traceability

Miao embroidery has a long history.

In the Tang Dynasty, Dong Xie Miao was a "bird of clothing", that is, many flowers and birds were embroidered on clothes.

In the Ming Dynasty, Miao people in Guiyang liked to use "color brocade" as a "Brocade" and "embroidered dress".

In the Qing Dynasty, there were many records of Miao embroidery and brocade, such as "Jinyi" and "Miao Jin" embroidered by Miao people in Qingdong river.

Miao nationality has many embroidery in ancient Zhou Dynasty. Today, a Miao farmer in Ping Yong area, Rongjiang County, still has two sets of clothing for men and women in the Qianlong era. They are all embroidered with colorful patterns.

The history and local records of Miao people in Guizhou, Yunnan, southern Sichuan, Hunan and Guangxi are well documented.

It can be seen that embroidery brocade is an indispensable process for the Miao people to beautify their lives and is a manifestation of people's love for beauty.

In order to remember the way of treading on the road, Lan Juan, a female leader, came up with a way of recording with color lines. He passed the embroidered yellow line of the Yellow River, crossed the embroidered blue line of the Yangtze River, and embroidered a symbol of the crossing over the mountains. When it finally reached the settlement where it could be settled, it had all embroidered from the collar to the trouser legs. Since then, the Miao girl had to dress up with a handmade embroidered dress to commemorate her native land, to commemorate the heroic and intelligent predecessors, but also to inherit the beauty of her predecessors, and to remember her ancestral career and inspire posterity. Miao Miao girls are good embroidery and legendary seedlings.

Three, artistic characteristics

Miao embroidery in Guizhou includes sheep embroidery, knot embroidery, braided embroidery, mixing, pulling red embroidery, weaving flowers and drawnwork.

Patterns can be roughly divided into three types: first, geometric patterns, with fruit green and green as the main body, with bright red collocation, simple composition and beautiful appearance; two, the natural form design, the tone is mainly green, and the other matches the color; three is the painting pattern, with landscape, flowers and grass, dragon fish and other composition, vivid.

Miao embroidery has unique national style and skills.

There are many needles, such as flat embroidery, braided embroidery, knot embroidery, embroidered embroidery, crepe embroidery, applique, flower pumping, beating and stacking flowers.

The patterns include kylin, dragon, Phoenix and common insects, fish, flowers, pick and pomegranate. The colors are red, red, purple, dark blue, light blue, dark green, light green, orange, deep yellow, etc.

In general, silk is used as the bottom and painted or patterned, so paper cutting has become an art that women must master.

Embroidery consists of flat embroidery and convex embroidery.

The popularity of flat embroidery is very wide. The Miao Nationality in Hunan, Guizhou, Yunnan, Guangxi and other places use this method, among which the Wuyang River, Qingshui River Basin, Guanling and Wenshan are the most prominent.

Convex embroidery is to lay several layers of paper flowers on the bottom cloth to make the embroidered flowers protrude and have a three-dimensional sense.

In the eastern part of Guizhou, some embroidered flowers were embroidered and decorated with gold thread around the petals. The flowers became more eye-catching.

Miao embroidery in Chengbu mainly embroidered with green and blue cloth and embroidered multicolored patterns.

Miao embroidery is mainly used to inlay the collar, skirts, sleeves, handkerchief, skirt feet and side edges of garments. It can also be used to sew satchel, wallet and so on.

A plain cloth with a cloth price, a pleated skirt made of plain linen, will be brilliant and worth hundreds of times if it is embroidled with embroidery.

Four, classification

Lei Shan county of Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture of Guizhou province is located in Qiandongnan. It is one of the main gathering places of Miao nationality. The population of Miao Nationality in the county accounts for 83.6% of the total population.

Lei Shan county is famous for its Lei Gong Shan and Miao village.

Because of the annual interest of Lei Gong Shan in Taoyuan, the Miao embroidery of Lei Shan Miao also had a different style.

The clothing of Lei Shan Miao people still has the traditional style of original flavor. Exquisite embroidery techniques and brilliant silver ornaments are amazing.

Lei Shan Miao is made up of Miao Yi, 100 fold skirt and colorful ribbon skirt.

The embroidery and decorations on the clothes are similar to those of the Tai Jiang Miao clothes, but the color and application are much richer than that of Taijiang.

The technique is also a hundred flowers contention. Braid embroidery, flat embroidery, wrinkle embroidery, embroidery and collage are often seen in Lei Shan Miao embroidery.

Most of the ornamentation is a variety of animals and plants and auspicious things. Besides, there is a very rare kind of writing cloak. These words are filled with blessings, or complacency, or revenge.

According to the structure and style, Lei Shan Miao costumes are mainly divided into four types: long skirts, middle skirts, short skirts and short skirts. They are also called Xijiang, Mongolia, public and Datang.

Lei Shan Miao costumes are unique in their production techniques. Their shape is very representative. Some are unique to Lei Shan. Some of them are mainly located in Lei Shan county.

The embroidery technology related to shape has its own characteristics, such as double needle lock embroidery, crepe embroidery, braided embroidery, silk embroidered embroidery, etc. Although there are other parts, the skill of Lei Shan embroidery is more distinctive and varied in terms of skills.

The embroidery pattern of Lei Shan Miao nationality uses a variety of deformation and exaggeration techniques in terms of shape and sculpt, and boldly uses multi-dimensional solid modeling and medium-sized composite means and metaphor, metaphor, metonymy, symbolization and other expression skills, reflecting the aesthetic taste of national style.

2. Miao embroidery in Huaxi

The Miao nationality's cross stitching skills in Huaxi, Guiyang, have certain representativeness in Guizhou's Miao embroidery techniques.

According to historical records, the nine ancestor of the Miao nationality originally lived in the the Yellow River River Valley. Due to many defeats in the battle with the foreign nationalities, they gradually moved westward, and some of them came into the territory of Guizhou today. One of them, who called himself "seeking" (he called it "flower seedling"), settled in Gloger San (today's Guiyang).

The Miao branch originally used batik to disguise itself, and later found that it was more colorful and expressive, and began to cross stitch on the batik pattern.

The common patterns of cross stitch are pig's feet, fork, ox head, sheep head, dog head, snow flower, thorn flower, duckweed, lotus flower, rice spike, buckwheat flower, bronze drum, lantern, silver fork, copper coin, sun, frog, water reptile, crab, swallow, pavilion, pastoral, bridge, river, Miao Wangyin, etc.

The Miao nationality's cross stitching techniques in Huaxi have the functions of remembrance of ancestors, recording history, expressing love and beautifying themselves, and at the same time, they have strong decoration.

Using cross stitch as basic needles, embroidering several yarns, not using the manuscript and picking up the special skills from the front side, it makes the whole work of cross stitching work more beautiful and exquisite.

花溪苗族挑花的藝術風格可分為早、中、晚三個時期，1900年以前為早期，這一時期挑花底布為自織青色麻布，色彩單純雅致，以銀色調為主，白色中點綴有小面積的彩色，構圖嚴謹，圖案有幾何化、程式化的特征;1900年至1966年以前為中期，這一時期挑花底布仍多為青色麻布，也有少量青色土棉布，色彩熱烈華麗，多以紅色調為主，配以黃、綠、白等色絲線，構圖較前期活潑，圖案更加豐富;1967年以后為晚期，這一時期挑花底布色彩和質地都呈多樣化趨勢，增加了紅、藍、黃、白、黑等色機織布，甚至使用塑料窗紗和粗麻袋布做底布，挑繡用的彩線除了蠶絲線又增加了十字線和毛線，構圖更加自由，圖案更加多樣化，有的藝人還開始摹仿現代織物上的寫實圖案制作挑花。

Because the Miao nationality has no words, the Miao nationality's cross stitching in Huaxi has become the carrier of our national history and legend. The unique cross stitching suit has become the identification mark and symbol of this Miao nationality.

Cross stitching is widely used in the daily life of Huaxi Miao people, festival celebrations, spouse selection, marriage and funeral, religion and other rituals, and has strong practical value.

When making the cross stitch, the Miao women in Huaxi not only pay attention to inheriting the artistic tradition of their own nationality, but also are good at using their imagination and daring to re create, and can hardly find two identical works, which makes the Cross Stitch Art with strong artistry and originality. The artists and collectors cherish it very much, and museums at home and abroad also have many collections.

3. Miao embroidery in Jianhe

Miao embroidery in Jianhe county is mainly distributed in the villages of Nan Zhai, min Dong and Guan Yao in Jianhe County, Guizhou Province, and has been circulating for five hundred or six hundred years.

The Miao nationality tin embroidery to hide the green cotton fabric as the carrier, first use the cotton spinning line to wear the traditional pattern on the cloth, and then embroider the metal tin wire in the pattern, then the black, red, blue and green silk lines are embroidered in the pattern space to be colored flowers.

Silvery white silk embroidered on Tibetan blue cloth, contrasting, bright, glittering, gloss, strong texture, so that the fabric looks like silver, with silver cap, silver earrings, silver collar, silver chain, silver bracelet match, extremely gorgeous and noble.

Tin embroidery has unique technology, fine workmanship, clear pattern, complex workmanship, special materials and high appreciation and collection value.

The difference between Miao embroidery and other ethnic embroidery is that it is not embroidered with silk thread but by metal tin wire. It is like a labyrinth, which is changeable, intriguing, profound and full of mysterious meaning.

Five, inheritance significance

With the constant change of people's aesthetic sense and interest, the market of national costume is getting smaller and smaller.

In this situation, the number of Miao embroidery artists is decreasing. It can be said that the more modern culture is developed, the quicker the traditional skills of Miao embroidery are.

In the face of the crisis encountered in Miao embroidery, measures should be taken as soon as possible to ensure that this ancient national craft goes smoothly.