Zara And Many Other Clothing Brands Have Been Exposed To Illegal Underground Sewage Treatment.
9 afternoon, friends of nature, public environmental research center, Dahl asked, ring friends technology, Nanjing green stone and other 5 environmental protection organizations jointly Tencent green channel jointly issued the "Research Report for the fashion pollution - green choice textile brand supply chain pollution".
The report shows that a large number of large textile brands and garment retailers in China have serious environmental irregularities in the supply chain, which has a serious impact on China's water environment.
According to Ma Jun, director of the public environment research center, China's textile industry accounts for about half of the world's fiber processing, and textile and garment exports account for 34% of the world's total.
The status of the "world factory" in the textile industry has promoted the economic development and employment of China.
However, the textile industry produces nearly 25 million tons of waste water and other pollutants each year, which also pollute rivers, lakes, sky, oceans, and even soil and groundwater.
The report shows that China's
textile industry
Sewage discharge is large and water efficiency is low.
Printing and dyeing wastewater accounts for 80% of the total textile wastewater discharge. The composition is complex and may contain a variety of harmful substances.
At the same time, the textile industry lagged far behind most other industries in recycling water, resulting in extremely low efficiency of water use.
"A large number of textile enterprises have records of environmental violations, and can not achieve stable discharge."
Ma Jun told reporters that more than 6000 textile enterprises were included in the pollution map database of China alone, some of which were punished or limited for a period of time because of private pipelines, sewage straight rows, abnormal use of sewage treatment facilities, and excessive discharge of pollutants.
In these enterprises, there are many large international and domestic brand suppliers.
According to the survey, after investigating the relationship between the textile products manufacturers and the well-known brands, the environmental protection organizations sent letters to CEO of 46 enterprises on March 22, 2012, 26 and 29.
Ma Jun told reporters that after the letter was sent out, some brands had responded.
Among them, Nike, Yida, WAL-MART, H&M, Levi 's, Adidas, Burberry and so on have begun to take positive actions to carry out queries and push them forward.
Apart from replying to the specific problems mentioned in the environmental protection organization's letter, some brands also expressed support for China's environmental protection work and environmental protection organizations' participation.
In the reply, Nike said: "as a long-term member of the green choice alliance, we (Nike) support the work of the public environmental research center (IPE) and related environmental protection organizations in China to promote the environmental and social responsibility of Chinese enterprises."
"Nike is not only using the public information database collected by IPE, but also requires the supply chain partners in China to pay attention to their environmental behavior, and also to announce the rectification plan if necessary."
Levi 's
"We believe that the database is a useful tool to determine compliance with our Chinese suppliers," the company said in reply.
It reveals problems in the industry and helps to focus on suppliers who need urgent regulation and participation. "
Adidas said: "we welcome the efforts of green choice alliances in promoting environmental and social responsibilities of Chinese enterprises in recent years. We also commend IPE for its leadership role in promoting information disclosure on pollution and environmental violations."
"If suppliers violate the law, including environmental and pollution control regulations, we require suppliers to take corrective actions.
If the violation can not be corrected, we will write a warning letter to follow up, which may lead to termination of business relationship.
And C&A, Tesco, Gap, Lining, Target, Next, Uniqlo and so on.
brand
Although there has been no communication with the above environmental organizations before, but this time still can carry on the communication in a short time, and some enterprises have begun to study the supplier's violation situation thoroughly, considering the establishment of supplier retrieval system, it is also worth affirming.
"However, 32 out of 48 brands did not respond."
The report said that this includes Marks&, Spencer, Esprit, CalvinKlein, Armani, Carrefour and other international brands, including 360 degrees, Anta, YOUNGOR and other domestic well-known brands.
Zara replied, "we regret that we can not answer individual responses from our schools, universities and professionals to our business model."
"It is true that some brands fail to respond because of objective factors, such as the limited time to reply, the process of internal information pmission, the confusion of language and supplier names.
But some brands did not respond because of their conflict with social supervision.
The report said.
It is reported that some of the suspected suppliers of Zara have serious problems.
Zara, one of the largest fashion retail companies in the world, claims on its website that it is "sincere to establish contacts with a wide range of stakeholders and the community, continue to engage in dialogue with the stakeholders and social organizations mentioned above; finally, the overall business activities should be pparent, especially the strategy of sustainable development should be pparent."
"We believe that ZARA has violated its public commitments. We call on ZARA to stop responding to environmental organizations' queries on the basis of business models and promote their supply chain to solve the pollution problem."
Ma Jun said.
"The biggest problem in the textile industry's efforts to reduce emissions is that there is no motivation."
The report suggests that the government should strengthen supervision, expand information disclosure, and guide enterprises to save energy and reduce consumption by means of marketization. It is suggested that textile brands and retailers should make use of information disclosure and join forces with stakeholders to promote emission reduction in supply chain. It is recommended that textile manufacturers comply with social expectations and implement cleaner production.
The report also suggests that consumers should pay attention to the environmental performance of enterprises, promote green production with green consumption, and eliminate pollution of their favorite fashion products.
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