"Made In China": With Strong Supporting Capabilities, It Still Has The Advantage.

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Du Yuzhou, President of the China clothing association, has repeatedly stressed that "making" is also a brand. We should make the brand made in China well and do enough.

Economist Lang Xianping has a different argument: the real manufacturing power is not China, but the United States.

At best, China can only be described as "world workshop" - only responsible for processing links, while other design, logistics, order processing, retail and other high profit links are not in Chinese hands.

China has consumed resources, polluted the environment and earned only a small amount of processing fees.

There is some truth in this statement, but a little extreme.

Although some brands have switched from China to some manufacturing sectors, this trend is not the mainstream, and the strong supporting capabilities of China's apparel industry still dominate.

With the globalization of economy and the increasing number of international outsourcing business, the concept of global value chain arises at the historic moment.

The global value chain refers to the value creation activities of global cross enterprise network organizations in the process of raw material collection and pportation, product production and distribution, to final consumption and recycling.

According to the leader's role, the global value chain can be divided into producer driven value chain and buyer driven value chain.

Producer driven value chain refers to the industry with high barriers to entry, and the value chain is controlled by large manufacturers in production.

The leading companies in the global value chain are usually international giants, who are closely related to distribution and retailing after controlling raw materials and accessories suppliers.

Buyer driven value chain refers to industries with low barriers to entry, and the value chain is controlled by sales channel owners and brand owners.

On the basis of establishing a sales network, they build production networks scattered in various countries (usually third world countries) and control these two networks, and become leaders in the value chain.

Manufacturers in the third world produce and sell finished products according to product specifications and brands provided by retailers and distributors.

This trade driven value chain is very common in labor-intensive consumer goods, such as clothing, shoes, toys, etc.

And household appliances.

According to the theory of global value chain, clothing value chain is driven by buyers, that is, large garment retailers, brand marketers and brand manufacturers are leaders of clothing value chain. They are at the top of the value chain and control the value chain.

In the global apparel value chain, design and marketing are at the high end of the value chain, while production and processing are at the low end of the value chain.

China's apparel industry is currently at the low end of the global value chain, facing the risk of the outflow of orders and the pfer of production centers.

The way to upgrade China's garment industry under the global value chain is gradually developing towards the high-end value chain.

Specific ways are: making sample clothing, improving product design ability, brand internationalization and expanding international marketing channels.

The clothing value chain is from raw material processing, product design, textile production, garment manufacturing to sales.

It is estimated that the profit distribution on the clothing value chain: Design accounted for 40%, marketing accounted for 50%, and production accounted for 10%.

Obviously, in the global apparel value chain, design and marketing are at the high end of the value chain, while production and processing are at the low end of the value chain.

The clothing value chain is driven by buyers, that is, large garment retailers, brand marketers and brand manufacturers are the leading manufacturers of clothing value chain.

They build a marketing network while configuring the global garment production network and promoting the globalization of production through the globalization of orders.

They control the design, brand and marketing links of high value-added and profit share in the apparel value chain, while the processing links with low value-added and low profit share are allocated in the labor-intensive and low wage countries and regions.

For example, the newly industrialized countries and regions in Asia, and later China, Vietnam and other places.

Although the global apparel value chain has extended to some countries in Africa and Central America in recent years, its focus is still in Asia.

After losing their comparative advantages in garment processing, developed countries all turn to the high-end apparel value chain and realize the upgrading of garment industry.

Italy has developed a one-stop operation system for textiles, clothing, apparel and high-end fashion design, processing and sales, forming a complete industrial chain and becoming the source of the fashion trend. There are many top brands in the world.

Japanese clothing enterprises develop and design their own products, placing orders in the developing countries with cheap labor, finished their own brands and sold them at home.

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A large number of world-famous brand groups such as Liz Claiborne and Lord&Taylor control the country and even the world market.

Many of them are design and sales companies, have their own stores, or have exclusive counters in retail groups.

They have brand names, and they are commissioned by developing countries for OEM after they are well designed, and then sold by them.

The garment enterprises of these three countries are in the leading position in the global value chain.

The labor cost of our country has absolute advantage over the United States, Japan and the European Union. Compared with Mexico, the advantage is not very obvious. Compared with the developing countries such as India, Burma and Bangladesh, it has no advantage.

With the rapid development of China's economy, labor cost advantages will gradually weaken, foreign orders may flow to other countries and regions, and the status of garment producing countries will be threatened.

Looking at the shift of world garment production centers since 1950s, this worry is not groundless.

The most basic reason for the shift of garment production centers is that leaders always try to deploy the most labor intensive links in the clothing value chain, namely, the processing links, in the countries or regions with the lowest labor wage level.

From the organizational level, the industrial upgrading of the global apparel value chain is mostly carried out by the interaction and learning between the processing enterprises and the leading companies, and is realized through different modes of organizational ties.

In processing trade, brand manufacturers (OBM) have low requirements for suppliers. Processing enterprises (OEA) are mainly engaged in processing, and it is difficult to become OEM or other forms of manufacturers.

Retailers or brand marketers require their suppliers to have the skills of clothing manufacturing and the circulation of raw materials, and they need OEM to process their garments.

When the demand is large, the order OEM will subcontract part of the order to local manufacturers.

If OEM can further learn how to organize the entire value chain, it is possible for them to enhance their roles from OEM to OBM.

At present, most of China is engaged in

Enterprises are in the stage of OEA and OEM.

The process upgrading, product upgrading and function upgrading under the global value chain are of great significance to the upgrading of China's garment industry.

At the OEA and OEM stage, the purchaser releases all the design instructions to the manufacturer, and then directs them gradually to allow the manufacturer to fill in the details and submit some design links to the manufacturer.

This is an interactive process, if manufacturers can continuously upgrade, achieve process upgrading and product upgrading, will gradually have the design ability, can design and produce.

Therefore, enterprises accepting orders to engage in garment export can first design according to the concept of foreign countries, solo plate and sample clothes, gradually understand the needs of foreign markets, learn from foreign design patterns, and then set foot in conceptual design until they launch their own designers.

This is a process of continuous improvement.

Making sample clothing can deepen cooperation with foreign brands, change passive orders into active orders, and even act as agents of foreign brands to choose domestic manufacturers and allocate production tasks even when their production capacity is limited.

Through this process, the value chain can be extended and enriched in China, strengthening the dependence of foreign brands on domestic manufacturers, and enhancing the status of China's apparel industry in the global value chain.

The data show that Chinese clothing has a 17% share in the world market, but with OEM and processing trade as its main products, there are not many private brands in the international market.

The export price of clothing products is only 1/4 of France and Italy. The profits earned are extremely limited and are at the low end of the global value chain.

"The embarrassment of Chinese clothing products lies in the fact that you don't have the right to speak at the end of the brand, and you can't speak at the end of the technology. Finally, you can only struggle between the front and rear ends of the industry chain and earn some hard-earned money."

The OBM business in the domestic market is basically irrelevant to the global value chain.

They are mainly engaged in export, and most of them are mainly OEM.

Some domestic brand manufacturers, such as Metersbonwe and Semir, have begun to control the clothing value chain in the domestic market, but these brands have not basically been able to enter the international market, and the next step is to enter the global value chain.

As a matter of fact, it is a feasible way to make the design and research and development take root in China and gradually shift the Chinese garment industry to the design link and extend to the high-end of the global value chain, and gradually change from OEM to ODM and OBM.

Therefore, for China's garment industry, the key to upgrading "big manufacturing" is to get through the industrial chain.

As Mao Jihong, chairman of Guangzhou state clothing, said, "the problem now is that the industry chain has not been opened up.

European designers are all "one-stop" design, starting from yarn, to fabric and clothing.

The same is true for the prediction of fashion trends.

China's problem is that every aspect of yarn, fabric and clothing is self governed.

"Everyone is releasing trends and talking about themselves."