A Fashion Trip To China

　　 Gaultier He was always so emotional. He asked him to sign his name, and he painted the entire cover. He asked him to write a few greetings for the readers. He drew large sketches; asked him controversial questions; he and the dish, but tactful. When he sees contradictions, he can also elaborate logic and have surreal fantasies. He rebelled against the boundaries of yin and Yang, sexually and dissolving the marrow, and could also extract the extreme freedom and charm of the typical Paris woman's sea jacket and lace bodice. He has the most romantic feelings about fashion, and has a strict and frank side. He is still an old fashion naughty boy who surprises you at any time, addicted to movies and loves to laugh. In the forty years of fashion industry, Gaultier is still full of vigor and vitality.

　　 Forty years of rebellion and passion. Fashion edge

"A long time ago, when I was a little boy, I dreamed of being a baker, because I was greedy." The unmarked sea jacket, Gaultier wearing a gray soft cotton T-shirt, giggled and opened the box. (yes, fashion fans remember the "French bread court skirt" at the 2004 Pain Couture exhibition. Gaultier was born in Arcueil town in the suburb of Paris. His father is a bookkeeper, and his mother is a cashier. Her salary is very low. "I was brought up by my mother and grandmother, who taught me to dress in an important way. Clothes are not only warm and shelters, but also closely related to the outside world. Its performance is related to structure, sewing, combination and control. Tone is above everything else. It is enough to change the relationship between people. This story Gaultier has said that he is not tired of thousands of times has laid his fashion ideas.

"When I was 12 years old, I saw a movie about Paris fashion and fashion designers. It was a tragedy, but it was very sad and romantic." Gaultier said the 1945 black and white film "Paris Frills". When the fashion designer seduced the fiancee of a friend, regarded her as Mousika, after a season, she threw her passion elsewhere, and was totally ignorant of falling in love with her. She walked away and refused to be entangled. He went crazy and jumped out of the window. The description of Paris fashion industry after the second world war is very precise and exquisite. "At that time, I changed my mind, I didn't cook, I wanted to be a fashion designer!" today, Gaultier, a judge of the Cannes Film Festival, looked at the film again. "God, what's the tone of the hero's voice?" well, it's not bad. " It's just me! "So I'm lucky to be alive now."

"To be honest, I regard fashion as a counterattack and rebellion against reality, which is also a reflection on myself. Fortunately, my mother did not have any protectionism. She allowed me to do what I wanted to do. When I was little, I liked teddy bears. Actually, I want dolls, but, you know, it's not good for little boys to play with dolls at that time. " Gaultier couldn't help laughing, "so I made a skirt for the teddy bear and dressed it up as a girl. So before I made stage clothes for Madonna, my model was teddy bear. So, from the beginning, I was destined to become a fashion designer. I can't possibly love anything more than love fashion. "

　　 Modern Couture Excellent representative

Since the beginning, Gaultier's treason and non publicity have been based on the French quintessence Haute Couture (advanced customization), which also backed up his creativity with solid manual details and structural connotations. "Haute Couture is the quintessence of France. In the early twentieth Century, the fashion industry only had advanced orders, the top ones were French designers, and gradually Italy designers joined. In 70s, Couture went into the sunset. Nowadays, only the limited number of French shops is limited. Large brands in other places have come to Paris to participate in the exhibition. They do not take Couture as their name, but technically they are genuine Couture. Every time you talk to Gaultier about Couture, it's like walking into a time tunnel. No matter how many thorns and shadows on the way, you always see the dawn. He is like a traditional and modern connectionist.

"It's like a French contradiction since ancient times." Behind the playful joke, Gaultier has a sharp sense of judgement. "For us, HauteCouture is the emperor's clothes. But, you see, we sent the king Louis sixteen to the scaffold and pushed another emperor, Napoleon, to rule. Gaultier seems to be using the "King" and "emperor" to imply the French native class designers and the masters of Paris, no matter who wins the top prize, the craft is still Haute Couture of France. From the traditional aesthetic point of view, French designers do Haute Couture like fairy clothes, which are creative like artworks. As long as it's beautiful, it doesn't care if anyone buys it. Well even feels it's better to sell it. " Indeed, French designer's artistic temperament lingers. "That's not feasible now. This is the paradox of the French, the paradox of beauty.

Being independent Designer Gaultier, which launched its own brand in 1976, never wanted to be famous. It just wanted to specializes in fashion. It didn't come to prominence until 80s. Thanks to the media, young designers just want to be famous nowadays. He said half jokingly. Over the years, Gaultier has been promoted to the ranks of the palace masters, and the business condition is still being tested. In 2004, Gaultier was invited by Jean-Louis Dumas, former president of Herm s family, as the creative director of Herm Herm s. At the same time, Herm s bought 35% of the Gaultier brand with 1 billion 500 million euros, increasing to 45% annually. In 2010, Dumas passed away and ended the same relationship between Gaultier and Herm s in the same year. Herm s will also own shares and sell it to Puig group in Spain for 16 million euros. Gaultier's perfume contract, which authorized Shiseido's BeautePrestige International, will also end in 2016.

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However, Gaultier is loyal to the traditional HauteCouture, but it is not entangled in it. It will not torture itself for the success or popularity of the series. This made him keep looking forward, constantly innovating and far ahead of the times, and thus became a leader of Modern Couture. Gaultier, who has never received professional training in fashion design, was introduced into the Pierre Cardin door in 1970. It is now the master of the traditional Paris fashion industry "master and apprentice system". He has a rigorous sense of technology, a courtesy for people, and a dedication of fashion to art. His design concept is bold and bold, but he is very advanced. In the spring and summer of 1997, Gaultier launched the HauteCouture series for the first time. It used jeans to make gorgeous court skirts, blending traditional crafts with modern ideas, and making the high order industries with cream and face full of new sparks. Then, he tried various combination of surrealistic dreams and dramatic modeling, such as skirt and fur, leather and film, which injected young life into Couture. Gaultier also stands on the "Diamond summit" of the fashion industry, becoming an excellent representative of Modern Couture.

"I am grateful to Mr. Cardin for taking me as an apprentice. The right of Saint Laurent to give women the right to wear pants is also very important to me." Gaultier's trouser suit is even more sharp, and there's another article. For example, making Catsuit, asymmetrical, Cutout like second layers of skin, sometimes adding patterns, human blood vessel heart, antique vase, flower flying, and Herba tenuifolia. From shallow to deep, and gradually fade out, all from the simple concept, but the transformation of countless looks. The magic of his Styling skills is beyond description. Sometimes, a woman's pattern is stripped off the coat, and the spine is found to be behind the spine. It is actually a bandage of Corset, or the Crinoline (skirt skirt) of the mark is made into bridal veil, S/M bandage and outer fur coat.

At that time, after the retirement of YSL, who was the "Saviour", the French high fashion Union would belong to the YSL's time to Gaultier, and the status of the successor was self-evident. In my eyes, in the 2002 autumn and winter of the year, the Gaultier series "O Niang" is also a brilliant work. The whole series revolves around the famous French erotic novel "The Story of O": the beautiful female photographer of Paris, O, has entered the sex club under the guidance of lover Rene, and has been enjoying the true love and true love after being abused by the battered and battered O. The VIP wears headphones, listens to O Niang's lovemaking, accompanied by the breath of the larynx, and appreciates the new Gaultier Couture. The first woman to appear on the stage was dressed as a Gaultier girl in a man's clothing, wrapped in a man's cashmere cashmere coat, and was reluctant to leave. Under the strong appearance of modern women, there is still a heart longing for love. This desire, on the way back to the backstage, uncovers the overcoat and covers it on the oncoming female mould, showing the wonderful sculpt skills.

Under the interpretation of Gaultier's S&M, women know how to let go of their pride, release themselves, and love and be happy. As Gauliter said, women like O represent the modern women's economic independence, their longing for love and their desire for sex. From men's suits and long winders, with lengthened cigarette holders and mink lined military uniforms, to silk velvet underwear covers, sable shawls, whip bandages and breeches, and finally like wedding cake wedding dresses. The classic works of Gaultier, sex and sex, men and women, I have you, depicted in every detail.

　　 Gaultier's male and female can not distinguish.

For fashion fans who grew up in 80s and 90s twentieth Century, Gaultier has a very important role in mind. At first, he was attracted by the controversy "sex" brought by his avant-garde design, and was also known as "L EnfantTerrible" (bad boy). Since the first time I saw Gautlier works in 1987, I know more and more that the box of What should or should not be done (what should be done should not be done) exists for Gaultier and also becomes a challenge in his design. He designed the tapered bra for Madonna, and put the "underwear outside" in the annals. His descendants continued to draw inferences about it, and he still had new ideas in the season. He broke the dressing limit of men and women, made the woman's phantom sharp, picked up the whip, stepped on the iron hoof, and made the man wear a skirt enchanting to fall in love with lace. He was born in the 80s homosexual underground dance hall, disguise queen, rather than gender ambiguity, but clearly see the existence of "sex". In 90s, he made a farewell to the concert for Leslie Cheung to design the dance table suit. This year's New York Metropolitan Museum of art Met Ball, designer Marc Jacobs wearing underwear and single lace dress, also won the essence of Gaultier.