The Development History And Historical Significance Of Chinese Dress Culture

Clothing is the result of human unique labor. It is not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also the implication of spiritual civilization.

Through ignorance, barbarism and civilization, human society has been moving slowly for hundreds of thousands of years.

Almost from the day of the origin of clothing, people have accumulated their life customs, aesthetic tastes, color preferences, and all kinds of cultural mentality and religious concepts, which have become the spiritual civilization connotation of clothing culture.

This article will introduce the costumes from China's past dynasties, and discuss the similarities and differences between the classic customs of the clothing culture and the human wisdom, and the embodiment of class concept on clothing.

Primitive social dress

From the perspective of unearthed cultural relics, the origin of dress history can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period.

In the ruins of the hillside cave in Zhoukoudian, Beijing (about 19 thousand years ago), 1 needles and 141 drilled stones, bones, shells and tooth ornaments were found.

The history of Chinese costume culture originated from this.

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After appearance, the head clothing has been developed into a stereotyped pattern, which has been widely used in a long period of time, in a very wide area and in many ethnic groups. It basically replaced the clothing of old stone components and became the coarse form of human clothing.

In addition to the general style clothing, the Neolithic age also found crowns, boots, headdresses and ornaments from some pottery relics.

Shang and Zhou costumes

From the Shang Dynasty to the Western Zhou Dynasty, it was a period of gradual establishment of the Wacom clothing system with the distinction between the upper garment and the lower garment.

In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up "official service" and "internal service" as official posts to take charge of Royal costumes.

According to the analysis of documents and unearthed relics, China's crown costume system was initially established in Xia and Shang Dynasties, and has been completely improved to Zhou Dai.

From the human artifacts unearthed by Zhou Dai, though the decoration is different from the traditional ones, the clothes under the jacket have become clear and have laid the basic form of Chinese clothing.

Costumes of spring and Autumn period and Warring States Period

During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the great progress of weaving and embroidery technology made clothing materials more sophisticated and varied.

The spread of technology enables diverse and elegant clothing to stand out.

During the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, not only was the Emperor himself dressed, but he was also decorated with pearls from the minister, and Jin Peiyu, the coat and the crown.

The ancients wore jade and had a sense of dignity and personality.

The upper class, whether male or female, should wear several or beautiful carved jade.

In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the clothing, the breadth of the upper class, and the narrowness of the lower class had become quite different.

Deep clothing has the intention of hiding the body. It is the casual clothes of the scholar bureaucrat class and the dress of the people.

In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, the styles of clothes were unprecedentedly rich and varied, not only in deep clothes and Hu clothes.

The musicians have long sleeves with long sleeves in their hooded hooks. Some people often wear horns or magpie crowns, wear small sleeves and long skirts, and wear down their arms.

All these are related to colorful social life.

The clothing materials in this period were richer than those in the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period.

Especially in the Han Dynasty, with the establishment of the public service system, the dress rank rank was also stricter.

The clothing of Qin and Han Dynasties is still splendid.

In the three years of the Yuan Dynasty and the four years of Yuan hunting in the Western Han Dynasty, Zhang Qian was sent to the western region for the two time, and opened up the land passageway between China and the West. Thousands of silk were pported from the Wei to the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

Thus, Chinese clothing culture spread to the world.

Since Qin and Han, deep clothing has undergone some development and changes.

From the top of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the robe of the cut was pferred to institutionalization.

There was no difference between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States period.

Clothing for men and women in the Western Han Dynasty is still in the form of deep clothing.

No matter single or cotton, most of them are made up of the top coat and the lower garment. The upper and lower sides still do not sew and do not connect. The coat has underwear and underwear, and its leader edge is exposed and become a stereotyped suit.

Keep tight pants and keep the "big dress" style.

In Qin Dynasty, clothing was still dark.

The Han Dynasty had a system of public service.

There are more than 20 emperors and ministers' dresses, dresses, suits and so on.

The grade difference on clothing is very obvious.

It is mainly reflected in the following: the crown clothing has developed into a basic identification mark based on the old system, and the ribbon system has been established as a mark to distinguish the official rank.

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Dress in Wei, Jin and Northern and Southern Dynasties

In the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the southern and Northern Dynasties, the rank costumes changed.

Great harmony.

The cap has been replaced by the scarf worn by literati.

In the early Wei Dynasty, Cao Pi, the Emperor Wen Di, established the system of nine official positions.

Since then, the system has been used in various dynasties until Yuan Ming.

In the Jin Dynasty, the official dressing was used by the society, and the men in official positions wore small crowns, and the gauze cap was also called the painted gauze crown, which is a system of samurai warriors in the Han Dynasty.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties, the northern minorities entered the Central Plains, and the people lived in miscellaneous areas. Political, economic and cultural customs permeated each other, forming a situation of great integration.

The pleats of northern ethnic shorts are becoming mainstream, and they can be worn by all men and women alike.

Women's clothing is "frugal and abundant".

From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the Qi and Liang dynasties, the dress was a dress suit, originally worn in the Han Dynasty.

On the other hand, the costume of ethnic minorities was influenced by Han Dynasty rules and etiquette and wore Han costume.

Wei Xiaowen carried out the Hua Hua policy and changed the name of "Hua Wei".

Originally, the Xianbei ethnic group wore a collar and sleeves. This time, the reform of the old customs was called "Xiaowen" reform, which promoted the development of Chinese costume culture since the Qin and Han Dynasties.

Clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was divided and unified, from war to stability, and economic and cultural prosperity.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, men wore their gowns, officials wore their gowns, and the people wore blouses.

It didn't change much until the five generation.

The official uniform of emperor Zi and Bai Guan uses colors to distinguish grades and uses patterns to represent official ranks.

Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties is full of fashions. It often develops from the costumes of strange court women to the folk, and is followed by others, and is often influenced by the northwest ethnic group.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most fashionable women's dress was a skirt, that is, a short jacket and long skirt, and the waist of the skirt was tied up with ribbons, almost under the armpit.

Women's hair ornaments in the Tang Dynasty varied and had their proper names.

Women's shoes are usually made of fancy shoes, mostly made of beautiful fabrics, colorful silk and leather.

Tang people are good at integrating the northwest minority and the exotic culture such as Tianzhu and Persia. Tang Zhenguan was very popular in Kaiyuan during the new year.

Xia Jinyuan and costumes in Song Liao Dynasty

The Han Dynasty basically retained the style of Han costumes. Liao, Xixia, Jin and Yuan Dynasty costumes respectively had the characteristics of Qidan, dun Xiang, nzhen and Mongolia nationalities.

The dress and adornment of different nationalities is exchanged and fused again.

In the Song Dynasty, there were three styles of official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes.

In the Song Dynasty, the official costume fabric was mainly made of Luo. The government used five generations of old system to give the brocade and brocade material of the pro and noble ministers every year. It was divided into seven different colors, such as the Song Dynasty vulture, the ball pattern, the robe and so on.

The color of the official uniform is followed by the Tang Dynasty. Three products are above purple, five products are above Zhu, seven products are above green, and nine products are above green.

The official costume of the Song Dynasty followed the pea fish system in the Tang Dynasty. The officials who were eligible to wear purple and red uniforms had to wear "fish bags" in their waist. They contained fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products.

Liao, Xixia, and Jin are the regimes established by ancient Chinese Qidan, dun Xiang and nzhen ethnic groups. Their costumes reflect the development track of national tradition in carrying out long-term cultural exchanges with the Han people.

The women of the Dang Xiang nationality have many Lapel bearers, and the collar is beautifully embroidered.

Khitan and Nvzhen people usually wear narrow sleeves, round neckties, knee Jersey, long boots, suitable for hunting at once. Women wear narrow sleeved collar gowns and long back backs, all of which are left, which are opposite to Han people.

The Liao and Jin regime took into account the reality of coexistence with the Han nationality, and set up a system of "Southern officials". Han people were ruled by Han nationality, and Han officials adopted the old system of Tang and song official uniform.

Liao Dynasty distinguished official products from the silk official uniform on the landscape and bird and animal embroidery patterns, which affected the grade identification of the official costume in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Khitan and nu Zhen men's clothes are also used by Han people for their convenience in action.

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The Yuan Dynasty considered the system of ancient, modern, Mongolian and Han, and made unified provisions for the officials and the people.

The Chinese official uniform is still mostly Tang style round collar and head, while Mongolian officials wear collar clothes and square corrugated caps, and the middle and lower levels are easy to gallop, the most popular plait lines and Thelkasa Ko caps.

The Yuan Dynasty held more than 10 grand assemblies every year, when thousands of officials dressed in the same color, style and decorated with stone, gold, gold and jewellery were called high quality clothes.

It was used as a dress for the Ming Dynasty.

Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties

In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costume of Han nationality was the main body, and the Manchu costume was the main stream in the Qing Dynasty.

In the two generation, the clothing of the upper and lower layers of the society has a distinct grade.

The official suit of the upper class is the symbol of power, and has always been paid attention to by the ruling class.

Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, dragon robes and yellow have been used exclusively by the royal family.

Since the southern and Northern Dynasties, purple has been expensive.

In the Ming Dynasty, because of the emperor's surname Zhu, Zhu was in the right color, and because of the "Analects of Confucius", there was "purple purple".

The most distinctive feature is the expression of "grade".

The upper class women have used high heels and have high and low bottom.

The clothing or long, short, or shirt or skirt of ordinary people in the Ming Dynasty basically inherited the old tradition and was very rich in variety.

In terms of clothing color, the common wives and daughters can only be dressed in purple, green, peach and other colors, so as not to mix up with the official uniform, and the working people only use brown.

The hat of ordinary people, except for the old samples since the Tang and Song Dynasties, was made by Zhu Yuanzhang in two ways.

One is the square barrel black paint gauze cap, which is called the square square flat napkin. One is made of six synthetic hemispherical small caps, called Liuhe unified cap.

In the Qing Dynasty, the shaving and easy clothes were carried out by violence, and men's clothing was unified according to Manchu custom.

In the nine years of Shunzhi, the imperial dress Ordinance was promulgated, and the crown clothes of strong Han nationality were abolished.

In the Ming Dynasty, men used to wear their bun, wear baggy clothes, wear stockings and shallow shoes. When they were in the morning, they had shaved hair and braid, and wore thin horseshoe cuff shirts, stockings and deep boots.

But officials and people dress in accordance with the law.

The main gowns of Qing Dynasty were long gowns and Liriodendron.

The official hat is quite different from that of the former dynasty. The officers and men above the military officers and the officers and men above the army wore similar weft caps, which resembles those with small caps. According to the warm hat and hat in winter and summer, they also look at the top and the top with different colors and materials, and drag a bunch of peacock feathers behind the hat.

Ling Ling is called "flower Ling", the high Ling has "eyes", and has one eye, two eyes, three eyes, and many eyes are expensive. Only the prince or distinguished minister is honored.

Emperors sometimes wear yellow gown to show their special favour.

Influenced by other colors, the mandarin jacket became popular among officials and gentry, becoming a formal dress.

Four, officials of the above five items are also hung with Chao Zhu, made of various precious jewels and fragrant wood, forming another characteristic of Qing Dynasty official uniform.

The progress of silk spinning and dyeing and all kinds of handicrafts has created conditions for the rich variety of clothing in Qing Dynasty.

The development of women's clothing in Qing Dynasty was different from Han and Manchu.

During the period of Kangxi and Yong Zheng, Han women retained the Ming style, fashionable sleeves and long skirts. After the Qianlong period, the clothes became more and more short, the cuffs were wider, and the clouds were added to the shoulders.

Manchu women wear "flag", comb their banners and wear floral bottom flags.

For the later generations, the so-called Qipao was mainly used in court and royal family for a long time.

In the late Qing Dynasty, Qipao was also copied by the ladies in the Han nationality.

Modern costumes (since 1912)

The revolution of 1911 ended over 2000 years of feudal autocratic monarchy, and the Chinese costumes entered a new era.

Before that, Kang Youwei, a reformist in 1894 and foreign minister Wu Tingfang in the early years of Xuan Tong, wrote the reform of the system of service and service. Chinese students also changed their suits.

With the strengthening of Sino foreign exchanges, the colorful clothing finally broke down the dress rank system.

Traditional robes, sweaters, jackets, trousers and skirts are increasingly influenced by Western costumes and replaced by many new varieties and styles.

In men's clothing, in the early years of the Republic of China, there was a situation in which the western suit and leather shoes matched the robe and the gown.

Wearing a cap in a Chinese suit is considered the most solemn dress.

Chinese tunic suits appeared before and after 20s and gradually spread in cities.

In the vast rural areas, traditional trousers have been used, cloth shoes with felt hat or bamboo hat and feet stitched on their feet.

Women's clothing, the revolution of 1911 brought about a variety of things. Besides wearing pants, they also wore more dress suits.

Since 20s, women love cheongsam and cheongsam has become fashionable.

After the establishment of People's Republic of China, clothing is simple and practical.

In the 50~70 years, the Chinese tunic suit gradually became the main body clothing for men. In addition, it was popular for military casual wear and people's clothing. The dress was influenced by the Soviet Union, and the dress was popular in the city. Besides, Lenin's costume was also popular.

But in rural areas, jacket and trousers have always been the traditional costumes of most farmers.

Since 1978, China has implemented the policy of reform and opening to the outside world, embodying the spirit of the times. The costumes with Chinese characteristics have mushroomed and sprung up.