Characteristics Of Women'S Clothing In Qing Dynasty
the Qing dynasty
Women's clothing, Han and Manchu are mixed.
During the period of Kangxi and Yong Zheng, Han women retained the Ming style, fashionable sleeves and long skirts. After the Qianlong period, the clothes became more and more short, the cuffs were wider, and the clouds were added to the shoulders.
Manchu women wear "flag", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two heads), wear "flower pot bottom" flag shoes.
For the later generations, the so-called Qipao was mainly used in court and royal family for a long time.
In the late Qing Dynasty, Qipao was also copied by the ladies in the Han nationality.
Cheongsam or short dress has several forms, such as pipa, big and pair.
The matching skirt or trousers should be decorated with printing techniques, such as printing, embroidery and pleating.
The edges, collar sides and sleeves are decorated with inlays, rolls, embroidery and so on.
The cost of setting up rolls is even greater. There are so-called white flag edges, gold and white devil's railing, peony strips, pan gold embroidery, and so on.
The doubling of the roll is ten of the six of the clothes, ten of which is four, and the dress is only six points.
There are also sheep skin made of clothing to reverse wear, the skin is also added to roll, more rows of cloud shoulder, winter and summer clothes can be processed...... "
In the early Qing Dynasty, there was not much difference between Manchu women and men.
Full of women do not bind their feet without skirts. They have a small coat on the outer shoulder and Shan Qiping, and a long coat.
In the Qing Dynasty, in addition to the above common characteristics, the combination characteristics of the flag in different periods were still quite distinct.
During the Kangxi years: aristocratic women were wearing a brown robe dressed in black collar gold pattern or gold pattern, plus a light green with black edge and a gold embroidered coat.
There are some ornaments in front of the collar, with a big head on the top and a Baotou towel.
The maid is black collar green robe, gold button, head decorated with cubes, with beads hanging shoulders.
During the Qianlong years: the woman was wearing a light yellow dress with Pink Trim, and a large black cloud top vest.
Skirt or trouser legs are lined with Black Embroidered railing and red bow shoes.
They also have a red jacket, white sleeves and a broad white side.
Embroidered shoes
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There are also those with no black collar and blue collar, with a string of fragrant cards hanging on the front of their buttons.
There are also orange strips on the outside of the clothes, hanging on both sides of the waist hip and the shirt, and the ends of the tapes are embroidered.
There are also white gauze sweaters, black trousers, red belts, red belly bags, and heels have tongue lifting.
Jia Qing and Daoguang years: women had many low collar blue purple skirts, and their skirts were mirrored and bottom embroidered with Black Embroidered rails.
Some of the cuffs and clothes are lined with wide bars, and the skirt falls down to the knees, and shoulders roll with cloud shoulders.
There are also some bright red skirts with green flowers and a few embroidered flowers on the mirror.
Tongzhi years: the fashionable blue satin belt with wide banded silk, with a width of one or a few feet, embroidered with ends.
No matter whether the skirt or trousers are laced.
The waist belt hangs down to the knees.
In the middle of Guangxu period: Women's skirts are shorter, sleeves widened, and the length of their knees is about a foot longer than that. When they walk around, they float in the wind.
The choice of colors is blue, pink and red.
In the last years of Guangxu: Women's clothes were over knee, they were decorated with large inlaid rolls, sometimes sixteen to twenty ribbons on skirts, and silver rims on each tail.
Gold or silver is hung before the dress.
decorate
Objects, such as ear digging, tooth picking, small hair tweezers, etc.
Some of them also have small fragrant sachets containing fragrant spices.
Some are also made of small bags of satin or silk made of powdered balsam.
At the same time, a new dress is popular in Shanghai. The new dress is not only sleeved, but also on the arms and shoulders. The clothes are narrower and longer, and the trousers are narrower.
With three to four pairs of bracelets.
Such a new dress really makes the women's image more beautiful and quiet.
This new form, which was slightly changed on the original basis, was fashionable and fashionable at that time.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the sleeves were filled with fake cuffs, one or two times less, two or three times more.
One of these costumes is to show identity and wealth; the two is to enhance the style of the flag in closed form.
The fake cuffs are not only used for finer materials, but also for decoration and layout, which is the same as cheongsam. Thus, the overall dress has increased the gorgeous effect and strengthened the sense of hierarchy of decoration.
The false cuffs are connected one by one, showing a slim sleeved slender feeling.
From the beginning of the Republic of China to the early years of the Republic of China: Women's trousers were narrower than those of the late Qing Dynasty, and their collar increased, even covering their cheeks, like the shape of a saddle.
This period is much simpler than the previous one, but decorations are still worn before the flap.
Women in Qing Dynasty
clothing
There are public uniform, dress and regular clothes.
The uniform is the system of service from the queen to the seventh lady, and the dress refers to the gown or mourning dress.
Clothes for weddings, funerals, weddings, and birthday days are prescribed in the court according to the rank of the ladies.
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Women's uniform
From the records of the Great Qing conference and the Qing Dynasty, it is known that women's daily clothing is strictly regulated and restricted by law.
Of course, because it is not subject to class restriction, there are more kinds of clothes.
It's much more convenient to take.
It is restricted to the servants, actors, and sapphire people not to use high grade raw materials such as silk, silk, yarn, satin, satin, Luo and so on, and not to use fine skinned, fine wool and stone blue raw materials to make garments. No expensive ornaments such as beads, jade, gold, silver and precious stones can be used freely. Only coarse materials such as gauze, cloth, wool, brown, cocoon, raccoon skin and sheepskin can be used.
At that time, if there was a "time suit", it was first taken in the middle of the aristocracy. In the period of monarchy, people's clothes and makeup were not easy to change. As for the "strange clothes", they were even more not allowed to exist.
The buttons used more frequently in the Ming Dynasty were mainly used on dresses, which were seldom used and were popularized at the end of the Ming Dynasty.
After entering the customs, people began to use buttons widely, which became necessary for making clothes.
Folk buttons are influenced by the armour of eight banners, and are also influenced by the import of foreign goods. Therefore, they are gradually used in the collar and side of clothing.
Before the Ming Dynasty, most of the collar were crossed, collar and round collar, and buttons were used in the Qing Dynasty. The shape of the collar began to change obviously.
There are no standing collar and side edges that have never appeared before the Qing Dynasty. The inner shirt is also different from the previous one. The big trimming and rolling technology is not very common, so the tailoring and sewing technology also has higher requirements.
Ancient costumes advocated "official samples" and "interior samples".
After Qian Long, since the trade ports began to exchange commodities, the new materials and new patterns were appearing slowly, the Guangdong and Guangxi and the Suzhou and Hangzhou were the birthplace of "new clothes". After the Daopu, the more and more new patterns were made, but the fashion patterns of the new fashions could only be popular among the aristocrats, and the civilians could not imitate freely.
Since Qianlong and Jiaqing, many female flag women imitate Han clothes, add large sleeves to the long clothes, or widen the sleeves of the gowns, and learn the bad habits of the foot binding, which cause the Ren Zong and Xuanzong to be angry, and the oracles are banned continuously, and the Manchuria eight banners, the Mongolia, the Han Army governor general and the vice governor are checked in detail at any time.
Those who punish offenders must be severely punished.
Dress uniform
Divided into two categories: gowns and mourning clothes.
Court
Kit suit
There are the following stipulations: Queen's empress, empress, imperial concubine and imperial concubine adopt the smoked mink and Zhu Wei (one pattern); the Dragon gown is stone green with embroidered text; the Dragon Robe is bright yellow, the prince's Fujin and Prince Fujin's crown are smoked mink and used rubies.
Huang Zi Fujin's gown is embroidered with Shi Qing, and Huang Zi Fujin Python uses fragrant color to embroider nine Python five claws, and the wife of a martial arts official to a nine product is complemented by the husband's rank, and the form of the complement is square.
Embroidered cranes of one fine official; two embroidered golden chickens; three pin embroidered peacocks; four embroidered geese; five embroidered white sticks; six embroidered egrets; seven embroidered chickens; eight embroidered quails; nine products and no embroidered magic birds.
A military officer embroidered kylin; two embroidered lions; three embroidered leopards; four embroidered tigers; five embroidered bears; six, seven embroidered Biao; eight embroidered rhinoceros; nine embroidered seahorses.
A lady without a rank applies a sky blue gown.
No need to fill up, red skirt, embroidered sleeve at the mouth can be optional.
My concubine can only use pink and light blue.
In the Qing Dynasty, the Phoenix crown (also known as the "bead crown") was decorated with beads.
In short, all the ranks of the Qing Dynasty were decorated with embroidered pythons.
This is a little different from the Ming Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty's big lady did not embroider python, but only embroidered pheasants (Qu), peacocks, mandarin ducks and long piled pears.
Women's wear
Since ancient times, mourning clothing has also been listed as a dress.
Mourning clothes can be divided into two parts: one is the "shroud" that the younger generation prefabricate for the elderly, the other is the dressing for the funeral.
Officials wear "shrouds" according to grade dress, while civilian women use yuan Qing or blue coats.
Those who attend the funeral should wear raw linen, linen, coarse white cloth, fine white cloth, hemp, MAH, paramet and vegetarian shoes according to the month.
During the mourning period, women should not wear colored flowers. They must not apply fat powder, nor wear silk clothing. They should not use bright colors. They only use white, gray, black and blue colors.
These are the general rules of funeral, which are different according to regional habits.
The south is more observant of ancient rites, for example, when women wear rough clothes, they do not sew at the edges, linen skirts under the waist, and a piece of linen is stitched on one side of the waist to form a hood shape. The ends of the cloth are slightly shorter on the both ends of the hat, while in the north the white cloth knots are wrapped on the head, and the white cloth is used to wrap the shoes under the coarse clothes that are not attached to the sideline.
Dress uniform
It is a formal official costume from the court to the Empress Dowager and from the imperial court to the imperial concubine.
The specific provisions of the royal clothes and their matching jewelry are recorded in the scroll of the Qing Dynasty and the volumes of the Qing Dynasty. The following is a brief introduction to the one or two.
The Empress Dowager and Queen's winter Dynasty crown is smoked mink.
The top is three layers.
Decorated with pearls, gold and Phoenix, precious stones, Shan Shan and other accessories, after the crown has a collar, a bright yellow band; summer crown is green velvet.
The Golden Queen of the Empress Dowager and Queen (decorated with gold), with lapis lazuli, turquoise, pearls, Shan Shan and so on.
The Queen's empress dowager and Queen's earrings are about three each, from the Golden Dragon's first class beads: the imperial concubines and the imperial concubine earrings. The noble ladies in the palace have three holes in their ears and three pairs of earrings.
The empress dowager, Empress and imperial imperial concubine wore their golden gown with stone blue color, and embroidered with Li long, Zheng long and Wan Fu longevity.
After the collar, hang yellow yellow tapeons, decorated with jewelry; there are also dragon embroidery, dragon dragons, or dragon and eight treasures plain water.
The Queen's empress dowager and Empress Dowager and the imperial imperial concubine dress in the winter Dynasty with bright yellow, collars and sleeves are all made of stone green, and the upper and lower shoulders are all attached.
The Empress Dowager and Queen's covenant was decorated with pearls, turquoise and Shan Shan.
When the Empress Dowager and Empress Dowager dress, they have three sets of Chao Zhu on their chest.
Hanging a plate of Chao Zhu in the jewels, are all high-grade ornaments such as pearls and Shan Shan. The Royal beads of the imperial concubine, the imperial concubine and the imperial concubine are decorated with dense pears.
This total of one hundred and eight beads, divided into four parts, with three beads, each part twenty-seven.
The empress dowager, Empress and imperial imperial concubine are equipped with green collection, bright yellow in tapes, and rich in grain and embroidery.
The dresses of the empress dowager, empress, imperial concubine, imperial concubine, concubine and the winter dresses are made of gold and Hailong edge, red Zhijin satin and satin dragon, and summer dress with satin yarn and winter dress.
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Queen's Phoenix robe in Qing Dynasty
The Queen's uniform pattern is basically similar to that of the Manchu ladies' dress. The round collar, the big collar, the collar, the sleeves and the edges of the skirt are all decorated with wide lace, but the designs are different.
The clothing pattern shown in this picture is phoenix Paeonia suffruticosa.
The entire dress is on the bright blue satin ground, embroiders eight colored Phoenix, the colored Phoenix intermediate, interspersed several peony.
The color of peony is pure and elegant, and its color changes are wonderful. It has the characteristics of traditional landscape painting.
On the contrary, Phoenix has a strong color, a strong red and green contrast, and a typical national style and characteristics of the times.
Costumes for court costumes in the Qing Dynasty
The clothing of the women's clothing was very similar to that of the Qing Dynasty.
The shirts are round collar, right side, twist, straight, flat sleeves and no gas.
The top of the slit will be decorated with a cloud head, and the pattern of the coat will be more gorgeous.
There are many varieties of patterns and have their own meanings.
During the period of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, there were more and more women dressed in lace in the capital of Beijing, with the name of "Eighteen inlays".
This decorative fashion continued to prevail until the Republic of China.
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