Designer Yohji Yamamoto'S Unfinished Perfection

　　 designer Yohji Yamamoto Many people think that Yoji Yamamoto is not as smart as Pauline Kawaguchi. Without a heart logo, he was ignorant of his style, but did not consider the economic benefits of the brand, so the old man had to face the danger of going bankrupt at the age of 65. Dark colors and unfinished tailoring characteristics seem to have become people's views and ideas about a school of Japanese designers in the West. The other school is more similar to the tangible and intangible characters in fairy tales, and seems to wear Edwardian knickerbockers when sleeping.

Yohji Yamamoto's autumn and winter 1983 series interpreted the concept of unfinished and wide style in the most accurate way. I was lucky to go to Barbican in 2011 to watch an exhibition on the development of Japanese contemporary fashion. Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion. It is clear that the development process of the past 30 years is full of future and cutting-edge atmosphere. When watching the exhibition, I once teased my friends that compared with Antwerp Six's reputation and its so-called noble position in people's minds, it seems that not having one thing is not enough avantgarde. Japanese designers also created a weird and dark style in the 1930s, whether you copy me or I copy you.

The Antwerp Six

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People wearing Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto Autumn/Winter 1996 Series

Yohji Yamamoto 1997 autumn and winter series Japanese seem to have known the truth of being born in distress and dying in peace since childhood. A small land is always too small for big ambitions. And the Japanese who suffer many disasters are always worried about their livelihood in nearly 100 years. But the leading figures in the fashion industry seem to be so extravagant and wasteful. In order to pursue the ideal wide shape and the pendulous sense of skirt, the 10 meter fabric can only create a tuxedo jacket. The master had a perfect comment on his works. "The role I play is very simple. The clothes I design will protect your body like armor in people's cold eyes." In fact, the way to understand this is very simple. Owning a Yohji is not Y's, not Coming Soon, not Y3. I mean a real Yohji Yamamoto. Those unfinished details and pleats of men's skirts will make you feel extremely tall and confident in an instant.

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Works of Japanese photographer Hisaji Hara

Yohji Yamamoto's classic skirt I can't repeat for you what Yohji brings to me, but he makes me fall in love with black. Different from many western designers, take my favorite Haider Ackermann for example, you don't need to have an altitude that seems to be able to form a sky. Yohji's clothes are not designed for basketball players. But those seemingly cumbersome fabrics can make you feel the fresh air in the clouds. Japanese students told me that Yohji would not use too many mysterious concepts as inspiration for design. The high school uniforms worn by their seniors are a good example. For student uniforms in Showa, the basic proportion is above short and below long. It has no allure of female student uniforms. But now many people begin to miss the uniforms of that era. A waist length jacket. With a pleated knee length skirt, boys are wide legged floor length trousers. Everyone is tall and powerful.

Susie Smoking

In fact, the exhibition of Yohji Yamamoto in Victoria&Albert Museum is a very contradictory concept. For business, there can be no pure beauty in the industry with commodity as the carrier. I once thought so ambivalent. Yohji is the first designer who makes me think it is possible. Looking back at Japan's 30-year fashion journey, it is gratifying that not only the East is brighter, but also the West is brighter (although the French must nod their heads first for a large part). Regrettably, most of the founding fathers have been handed over, Junmi Watanabe has taken over the role of Kawakubaling, and Miyake has also handed over the power to Naoto Ryazawa. Yohji, a terrible old man, still keeps his studio, wondering what clothes to make next season?

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