Chinese National Costume Culture -- Han Costume Culture In Sui And Tang Dynasties

In 581 ad, the establishment of the Sui Dynasty ended four hundred years of division since the Eastern Han Dynasty. This is a feudal unified country established after the Qin and Han Dynasties, and a new ethnic community centered on the Han nationality. The garments of North and South are mutually emulated, and the industry is close to the wall. The heyday of the feudal society in Tang Dynasty opened the most brilliant chapter in ancient China. During the Tang Dynasty, the country was stable. Economics Prosperity and the full development of cultural undertakings have reached the peak of feudal culture. Over the past three hundred years, the clothing of the Tang Dynasty has been a very important period in the development of Chinese clothing after a long history of inheritance, evolution and development. On the one hand, the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty inherited the crown clothing system of the past dynasties, and promoted the path of the later generations. On the other hand, the clothing development of the Tang Dynasty was all inclusive and widely distributed. After the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms were the continuation of feudal warlords in Tang and Song dynasties. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties clothing, regardless of official uniform or civilian clothes, men's wear and women's clothing show their open mind and pioneering spirit, which fully reflects the bright times and strong national characteristics.

　 Skirt It was the main form of women in the Tang Dynasty. In the Sui and early Tang Dynasties, women's short sleeves were made of small sleeves, tight skirts and high waist skirts. They were all above the waist, and some even tied under their armpits. Silk, also known as "painting silk", is usually made of a thin leno and printed with a pattern. The length is usually more than two meters. When it is used, it is covered on the shoulders and coiled between the arms. Women in the Tang Dynasty were beautiful in their posture. Because of its rich body, women's clothing in the Mid Tang Dynasty is becoming more and more generous. The width of the skirt is much larger than that at the end of the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty. Although the clothes are small sleeves, they also tend to be more relaxed than those in the early Tang Dynasty and the Tang Dynasty. {page_break}

After the Tang Dynasty big sleeves were flourished in Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, and the style of women's clothing became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature is more obvious. In general, women's clothing is usually more than four feet wide. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the aristocratic dress was usually worn on important occasions, such as Korean ginseng, ceremony and marriage. Wearing such a dress, there are also gold hairpin flowers, so it is also known as "Tian Chai Li Yi". The big sleeved dress style is big sleeves and double breasted, with long skirts and silk drapes. The clothing made of gauze for women's clothing is a feature of the Tang Dynasty costumes, which is closely related to the ideological opening at that time. In particular, underwear is not only underwear, but also the costume of the veil, which is a generalization of this garment.

Sui and Tang dynasties also produced an important variant of Chinese clothing - T-shirt. The round collar style appeared very early in the history of Chinese clothing, but it did not become popular until the Sui and Tang Dynasties. This kind of clothing lasted for Tang, Five Dynasties, song and Ming Dynasties, and had a great influence on Japan, Korea and other countries. Wrapped in a head and wearing a round collar gown is a popular dress for men in the Tang Dynasty. The head is also called the burden head, which is a first garment formed on the basis of the Han Wei ribbon. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament in the head, called the "towel". The shape of the towel varies from time to time. Besides the towel, there are many changes in the two feet of the head. In the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the feet were changed from the original soft feet to the hard feet of the left and right sides.

It should be pointed out that the popularity of this round collar Han costume does not represent the disappearance of the traditional right-handed cross Hanfu. In fact, even in its most popular Tang Dynasty, it was mostly confined to Changan centered areas, officials, royalty, and Wu Yue, and ordinary people. In addition to wearing round collar and narrow sleeved gowns, officials in the Tang Dynasty still wore formal ceremonies on important occasions such as sacrificial ritual. The style of the dress is mostly inherited from the Sui Dynasty, worn by the head or the caged crown, wearing the big sleeves of the big pair of sleeves, the surrounding clothes, the jade belt, and so on. Round collar Han clothing is the important part of Han nationality dress. {page_break}

Top coat: still there.

Clothing system (deep clothing): is still a scholar bureaucrat home and folk dress.

Gowns: gowns and shirts are popular in the past. They become the mainstream clothing of the people. At that time, they began wearing round collar robes and extended to Ming Dynasty, which is what we later called official gowns or public uniform.

Upper skirt: at that time, women's skirts were shortened to the breasts, the skirts became wider, tied to the chest, and then tied up with long skirts, almost like the present Korean dresses. The sleeves are basically turned into small sleeves, and the latter part of the sleeves hang down, covering their hands, appearing slender, becoming pendant sleeves. At the beginning, the skirt was covered with a thick, thick and cloak like a cloak. Later, it became longer and narrowed, only a piece of cloth. It was fixed on the shoulders, and was draped in various styles. Later, the son and the silk became an inseparable element in the skirt, which lasted until Ming Dynasty. From the middle Tang Dynasty to the Five Dynasties, the style of the skirt came back to the Wei and Jin Dynasties. It was still waist to hip, the skirt was narrowed and the skirt was waist high, but the sleeves were still small sleeves.

The jacket is originally belonged to the robe. Because of the men's official uniform in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, it was originally a Chinese fir, but the length was only set at the knees and knees, called the cross gap, and the next was continued with clothes. Therefore, although he belongs to the category of bubble shirts, the structure is more like the complex of the bubble shirt and the deep garment. Therefore, it has become the sixth style of the Hanfu system -- the clothing. Because the early shirt was used as a uniform, the collar was used with a round collar, and the latter was generally followed by the collar, widened and connected. In the Ming Dynasty, it was a public uniform with official staff.

Straight forward; before mentioned, the long coat of the upper and lower cut is like a gown from a long coat. But the original long coat has not been customized. But in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the length of the length of the coat is to the ankles, and there must be a wide garment margin, and all of them are crossed, and the two sides can not be short of hips (forked), thus forming the seventh style of the Hanfu system -- straight (straight) body. At that time, the main purpose of direct customization was to revive the ancient ceremony and find the best middle point between the deep garment and the robe. Therefore, the most standard long coat came into being.

Coat - big sleeved coat - Xuan coat: Zi Zi: at that time, there was a kind of Lei, but the difference was straight collar system, and the two sides opened to the armpit, so it was half worn and half worn. It was called jacket at that time. Later, the large sleeves used for ladies' dress were also based on this. They were split into their armpits and directly tied together. They were called big sleeves, but their sleeves were big sleeves and their clothes were slightly longer. Later, in the Song Dynasty, it became narrower and longer, and the sleeves became smaller sleeves. This time it was straight collar, but it did not tie together and became a spin coat. It becomes wider when it is bright, and the sleeves become larger and become a half straight collar. Because these series are all one pulse and no change in style, they can be classified into one category and become the eighth style in Hanfu system, collectively known as "Zi Zi". The most important feature of Zi Zi is the straight collar system, with both sides open to the armpit, which is used for dress in the early days. Later, it becomes custom-made. For example, women wear more skirts, while women and folk etiquette wear more. This is also the Korean Tang dress in the Korean era. In the Ming Dynasty, sleeveless and half sleeved cuff appeared.

Half arm: at that time Popular A kind of cuff, half sleeved and sleeveless, mostly straight collar, with a small band tied to the chest. If you calculate otherwise, you can also be considered the ninth style of the Hanfu system half arm class. Because it is half sleeved and sleeveless, it is usually worn as a jacket outside the skirt. But I think he should be more specific.

Crown hat: in addition to the scarf, this is a period of unprecedented development of cap. Like the head, the original wingless - to the soft wings - to the hard wings - to the straight wing - and then to the wings, the straight wing became the official hat of the Ming Dynasty. Like a bamboo hat, it came into being at that time. Such as women's curtain, face screen.