Chinese National Costume Culture -- Zhuang Nationality's Dress Culture

The population was 15 million 480 thousand in 1990. According to the fifth national census conducted in 2000, the number of Zhuang people was 16178811. In 2005, the Zhuang population exceeded 17 million. It is now the most populous ethnic group in China. Most of the Zhuang people live in Guangxi, mainly in Liuzhou, guests, Hechi, Nanning, Baise and Chongzuo. Among them, there are more than 100 people in Yunnan, mainly in Wenshan, and there are also some parts of Honghe and Qujing. Guangdong's Lianshan, Zhaoqing Huaiji, Guizhou Congjiang and Hunan Jiang Hua also distribute Zhuang nationality. Before the unification of Zhuang Nationality in 1965, Zhuang people claimed to be more than him, and Guangxi's most commonly known self proclaimed and called "cloth (Zhuang) Zhuang", "cloth soil", "cloth worker", "Bujaj" ("Rui"), "Bu Nong" and so on. There are more than 20 kinds of Yunnan, mainly including "Nong Ren", "Sha Ren" and "Tu Ren".

The dress of Zhuang nationality is blue black dress. clothing Short style. "The book of diseases and diseases in the world," reads: "Zhuang people's short skirts of flowers and clothes, men wear short blouses, known as Li pail, two waist before and after can not cover their knees, women are also Li barrels, under the surrounding flowers."

The Zhuang men's men's clothing is mostly the Tang costume with breasted breasts. They are made of local homespun cloth, not wearing long trousers, and the jacket is short collar, and a row of rows (six to eight pairs) knot buttons, a pair of small pockets on the chest, two big pockets in the abdomen, a broad border in the hem, and a symmetrical crack in the left and right sides of the lower edge. Wear baggy pants, short and knee. There are some leggings and scarves. Wear shoes and hats (or black scarves) in winter and have no crown in summer. Holiday or relatives wear cloud top cloth shoes or double hook head duck's shoes. Wear straw sandals when you work.

Zhuang women's dress is dignified and decent, simple and generous. Their general costumes are blue and black, with a slightly wider trouser legs and colorful printed or jacquard towels on their heads, and delicate aprons around their waist. There are two types of blouses in the top of the coat: dark blue, short blue collar and right side. There is a dark pocket hidden in the abdominal front, and several buttons on the side of the flap are stitched. In the remote mountainous areas, Zhuang women wear breasted jacket, no collar, embroidered multicolored patterns, and fitted with an accessory. Under the wide black pants (some of which are two colored stripes along the trouser legs), waist tied aprons, and blue, red and green silk and cotton woven railing on the trouser legs and knees. Wear straw boots and shoulder pads during labor. Embroidered shoes in rush, song, or holiday. Zhuang women generally like wearing earrings, bracelets and necklaces. Clothing accessories and accessories are slightly different from place to place. The length of the coat has two schools, most of which are short and waist. {page_break}

The Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region is located in China. South Asia The tropical monsoon climate area is temperate and abundant in heat. Zhuang nationality is the main residence of the Zhuang nationality. Zhuang nationality is a traditional agricultural nation. Textile, printing and dyeing handicraft has a long history.

1: due to climate reasons, Zhuang clothing is mainly made of blue black dress and short trousers. Because of the continuous integration of nationalities, men's clothing is almost the same as Han costume, but only girdle girdle. Women's costumes are decorated with lace, waist skirts and aprons are gradually replaced by trousers.

2: for the color of Zhuang costumes, ancient and modern times used indigo as dye, probably because the local climate is suitable for its growth.

Generally speaking, the two aspects are natural environment and humane environment.

　　 Dress history

Before the end of Qing Dynasty

Before the end of the Qing Dynasty (1911), the clothes of Zhuang people were self - spun, self - woven and self - sewn. At that time, women's clothes were more colorful than men's. They were dressed in big blue dry clothes, with their sleeves under the right armpit and their sleeves, embroidered with large lace, low collar and neck. The lower part of the body is a long skirt with long ankles, or a wide trousers with lace, and a large vertical lace on the outside of the skirt, with several folded vertical symmetry, and a few fold at the buttocks. The skirt foot of the buttocks is rolled up about an inch, and the two sides are stitched by a few stitches, forming the bow of the back skirt, and from the front it is a bucket skirt, the skirt is seen behind it, the upper and lower dress is close, and the lines are exceptionally clear and very elegant. Embroidered shoes with round feet. The jackets worn by Zhuang men are black cloth jacket, round collar and wide sleeves, two button buttons 7 to 9, buttons are made of black cloth, and two buttons are fastened up when worn. Men's clothes, namely trousers, are also black cloth and trousers are wide, usually 1 to 1.2 sizes. Adults, especially the elderly, wear a black towel about 4 to 5 feet in length or with a black rectangular cloth. The top ends are folded, and the holes are opened on the head. Usually, barefoot is the only way to wear barefoot shoes or dragon and Phoenix shoes. {page_break}

After the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China

During this period, women dressed in wide Tang suit trousers and half skirt on their ankles. The apron is tied on the back with two printed ribbons and the ribbon is about two feet at both ends. Zhuang men wear a pair of Tang suit and wide trousers. Feet wear homespun shoes. Men wear Chinese tunic suits and Western style heads while reading. Old people wear black cloth.

After 1949, the clothes of urban residents, government staff and students in Zhuang area were closely related to the changes in the whole country. They usually wore Chinese tunic suits and cadres' clothing, just like the local Han people. In recent years, with the development of economy, people can even see Zhuang nationality compatriots in western mountains and leather shoes in remote mountainous areas. Traditional Zhuang clothing has also changed quietly.

Hairstyle

Zhuang women's hairstyles vary from place to place. Old women in Longsheng, Guangxi do not bun, roll their long hair over their heads, and then wrap them in black cloth with four feet. Young women have long hair on their heads, cut around in front of them, and turn their hair to their forehead, with white cloth and silver comb. Children's hair is shaved first, and the silver hat worn by their grandmother is grown up before they grow up. Women in Tian E area have long hair instead of pigtails. Married people knot their bun and comb their heads from left to right, and tie their headscarves. Girls comb a long braid and fringe; young women comb two braids; the middle aged and old are bun, hanging behind their heads. The hairstyle of Lianshan District in Guangdong is like a coiled dragon with a big hairpin wrapped in green silk.

　 　 Headwear

Zhuang men and women have different hairstyles in different historical periods. From the flower cliff paintings in Guangxi, the early Zhuang men cut their hair short. There are a few men on the cliff paintings with two feathered feathers dancing on the head. There are a few young girls who have long braids, and a girl has a mountain flower on her hair. Ancient books record: the hair of the Zhuang nationality's ancestors also had hair hair, and the inverted spine shaped bun shaped spine. {page_break}

In the Tang Dynasty, the man was still "exposed" (broken hair), and the woman's bun was hanging down, and it was slanted through three or four inch bamboo strips. The Song Dynasty Zhuang area popular vertebral bun. In the Qing Dynasty, the town and officials were forced to wear long braids. But the country man still cut his hair and ignored the Qing ban.

After 1949, women's hair accessories still maintained certain characteristics. For example, old women in Longsheng, Guangxi, turn their long hair over their heads and swirl them, then use four feet of black cloth to wrap them. Young women wear long hair on the top of their heads, cut them around, and turn their hair to their forehead. Girls' hair is shaved and worn first.

The silver hat, which was brought up by the grandmother, grew up to retain her heart. These hairstyles are obviously the relic of ancient hair.

Tien woman also wears long hair instead of braid, married bun, or combing her left side to right side, tied with a scarf, unmarried in turn from right to left, wrapped with white or jacquard towels. Southern Guangxi is not the same. In some places, the young girl is a long braid and fringe; the young woman is braided with double braids; the middle-aged man is bun and hangs behind his head. In the past, the hairstyle of Lianshan Zhuang women in Guangdong was like a coiled dragon with a large hairpin, wrapped in blue silk cloth. Most of the girls in Zhuang nationality like to stay in bangs, and are used to pull out their hairs with two strands of yarn, especially those who are close to their wedding day. They always remove their hair from their necks and show their white neck.

　　 tattoo

In the Song Dynasty "Taiping Huoyu Ji", Yongzhou left and right river states "their common people's evil is carved questions, chisel teeth, pictures, tattoos". It can be seen that the tattoo culture is not only for a long time but also quite ordinary. The reason for the tattoo of Zhuang ancestors is said to be an injury to the snake dragon (alligator) in the saying of Qin Yuan Qin. Some of the ancestors of the Zhuang nationality who were engaged in fishing were attacked by crocodiles in the river and sea. People feared it and disguised themselves as "dragon" (crocodile) son, praying that it should not hurt. In addition, tattoos on the forehead and body are different from different tribes and tribes, indicating the role of national totems. Later, the concept of totem was desalinated, tattoo became a decoration gradually, and became a supplement and extension of clothing. Around 1949, some Zhuang nationality areas still had tattoos. The most important part of Zhuang's tattoos is denomination, because this is the first place to enter the human eye. The second is the chest again for the arms and back, the last is from the knees to the lower abdomen. The contents of tattoos are related to the customs of different tribes of Zhuang people, that is, totems, which are related to different clan symbols, and later related to some ideas of people, such as different aesthetic concepts. Zhuang tattoos include crocodiles, crocodiles, tiger stripes, snakes, cloud and thunder stripes, moths, butterflies, flowers, birds, dragonflies and so on. The colors used are all black and black, consistent with the clothing, showing the aesthetic concept of the black people as the beauty of the Zhuang people's ancestors. In some places, a man's tiger pattern is a powerful manliness.

FLOWER shoes

Zhuang shoes are one of the embroidery techniques of Zhuang people, also known as "embroidered shoes", which are used by women and popular in Guangxi and Longzhou. Toe hooks are like dragon boats. There are two kinds of heels and no follow up. The soles are thick and made of sandpaper. Acupuncture includes needle, needle, needle, needle, embroidery and embroidery. In terms of color, young people like to use bright bottom white flowers, usually with pomegranate red, deep red, green, yellow, green and other gorgeous colors. There are dragon and Phoenix, double lion ball, butterfly flower, sparrow and so on. The old people often use black, light red, dark red and other thick colors, and there are clouds, dragons, heaven and earth, lion animals and so on.