Fashion Designer'S Common Sense: The Concept And Division Of Dress Design
First,
clothing
Design concept and division of labor
1. concept of clothing design
Clothing design
Taking clothing as the object, using appropriate design language to complete the creation process of the entire dress state.
Clothing is closely related to human life. Design is the first step in its production process. Although the design starts from the original state of clothing, the realistic concept of clothing design is established only after the clothing has entered the stage of production design.
Due to social factors such as humanistic trend of thought, fashion content and legal morality, clothing is limited, and the methods and contents of costume design in different historical periods are different.
This book deals with the concept of fashion design in the modern sense.
2. division of dress design
In general impression, clothing design seems to refer to the style design of clothing.
In fact, clothing design also includes the structural design of clothing and the process design of clothing, combined with style design to form the three division of labor in design.
Although the three division of labor can be done by one person.
Designer
The designers should also master the skills in these three aspects. However, due to the continuous division of labor in society, people begin to emphasize the completion of a product with the strongest combination of individuals.
Therefore, the clothing design work also complies with the needs of social development, and divides into three aspects of style, structure and technology.
In small garment enterprises, this division of labor is not obvious. Designers or technicians are versatile and versatile.
In large garment enterprises, it is a "professional person" with detailed division of labor, clear responsibilities, and design or technical personnel. In terms of style design, it can be divided into men's wear designers, women's wear designers and children's wear designers. Structural design and process design can also have a corresponding division of labor.
This is also one of the main reasons for the larger design and workmanship of large garment companies.
A) style design
In the society, the style design is often regarded as the form design.
In fact, the style is made up of two parts: Modeling and color. In real life, modeling and color can not be completely separated. The so-called "invisible and colorless, colorless and unformed" object gives a complete impression through modeling and color.
In order to facilitate learning and research, we usually describe the two parts separately. Clothing colleges and universities regard this as two courses. The task of fashion design is to explain popular concepts and provide specific patterns of clothing.
Style design is a creative activity. Stylists must master people's consumption psychology, familiarity with people's life and customs, and master aesthetics, painting and other techniques.
Fashion design can affect fashion, beautify life, guide consumption and promote production.
The person responsible for style design is usually said.
Fashion Designer
。
B) structural design
The task of structural design is to deduce the result of style design into a reasonable spatial relationship.
It is a kind of design that decomposes the garment style map into a planar garment piece structure chart. It is usually reflected in the form of drawing and cutting and drawing, and it is a filtering link between style and technology.
This link is very important and can not be leaped. It should not only ensure the intention of fashion design, but also make up for some deficiencies in the style design. At the same time, we must also consider the rationality and feasibility of the process design.
Some small
Clothing enterprise
There can be no full-time stylist, but there can be no structural designer.
People who are responsible for structural design are usually called print masters.
C) process design
The task of process design is to arrange the results of structural design in reasonable production specifications.
Garment process design includes the formulation of garment process operation procedure and the specification of finished product size, the matching of accessories, the selection of stitching method and setting method, the selection of tool and equipment and technological measures, and the quality inspection standard for finished products.
Whether the process design is reasonable not only affects the quality of clothing, but also affects the production cost most concerned by garment manufacturers.
Reasonable process design can also reflect the wisdom of the designer, and make the most effective use of the limited production equipment.
Process design is often used for sample making.
The person responsible for process design is usually referred to as a craftsman or a stylist.
Two, the characteristics of fashion design
1. based on the human body
Clothing is known as the second layer skin of human beings. The foundation of clothing is based on human body. Therefore, when designing, it must be based on the human body and is restricted by the structure of human body.
Any clothing will eventually be worn on the human body and tested by the human body. The human body is the best yardstick for testing the quality of clothing design, and the design which completely divorced from the human body is of no functional significance.
But clothing and human body is not a simple correspondence, the design of the shape is not fully conform to the human body appearance.
Especially in modern fashion design, besides its basic protective function, the aesthetic function of clothing has become more and more important. Good design can highlight the advantages of the human body and cover some defects of the human body.
For example, the traditional Chinese cheongsam emphasizes the curvilinear beauty of women.
Suit
The shoulder pad is designed to set off the masculine and upright beauty of the male, while the chest wrinkle design with a sense of volume can make the chest flat women find confidence.
Fashion designers use various methods to create clothing, just to better shape the beauty of human body.
A) fabric sculpture
Clothing is different from ordinary design, its object is fabric, from the perspective of modeling, clothing is the fabric sculpture.
Just like all the space modeling arts, there must be a basic framework for supporting the shape. The human body is the frame of clothing modeling, otherwise the clothes will not be supported.
Known as "
cloth
The sculptor "GRACO" created the "no need to cut cloak", which was praised by the fashion world. She thought that costumes were carved and constructed on the basis of human beings.
clothes
We should show the charm of the one hundred percent.
When she created, she didn't draw designs, and directly used cloth to sculpt on the stage as sculpture. Each of them was exquisite and unique, especially those flowing and three-dimensional shapes, waves, bold and elegant colors, attracting many first-class customers.
In 1982, Pierre Cartan held a fashion show in Paris called the "living sculpture". The women's show was abstract and modern, and was known as the "avant-garde" of French fashion.
Robert kabuci, a famous teacher in Italy, was shown as a "soft sculpture" in the clothing exhibition in Beijing at the beginning of 1995.
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