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    Old Brand Gathered 80 After Designer Shop To Bid Farewell To "Cigarette Paper Shop"

    2012/10/24 14:09:00 14

    KnittingBusiness UnderwearShanghai

     

    In 80s, one of the many double employee families in Shanghai will work in a textile mill, which is not only the label of a regional industry, but also the most splendid golden age of the textile industry with billions of profits and taxes.


    Despite the strong nostalgia in the office building of the manufacturing Bureau, Cao Chunxiang, executive deputy general manager of the three gun group, seldom recalls the past glory.

    In fact, when interviewed by reporters, he reluctantly squeezed the time.


    It is necessary to manage the traditional old cards that were born in 30s when competing against foreign capital and changing the structure. What we need is not just innovative ideas, but also endless design inspiration.

    Just going to the flagship store under the office floor is Cao Zhixiang's daily homework.

    His other status is the leader of the Shanghai knitting Research Institute and the Shanghai three gun technology center, so he knows best the old brand's cost of innovative design.


    A 800 thousand yuan fee for the innovation of the fabric


    "Our R & D team is mainly composed of two levels, one is Shanghai.

    knitting

    The Institute is mainly engaged in upstream research, basic industry trends and overseas fashion research. This is in the medium to long term, and the other is the Shanghai three gun technology center, which is designed for the next two years.

    Cao Zhixiang told reporters that 90% of the two platforms were invested in three shots of the brand.


    "Every year's new products, including fabrics, styles, concepts and other innovative elements, should be launched 1000, while the annual production of old fist products only more than 300, new products to reach 2-3 times the old product, this pressure can be imagined."

    According to Cao Zhixiang, the sales volume of new products now accounts for about 50-60%.


    However, research and development of new products sometimes need to pay high tuition fees.

    "In 2000, three guns wanted to develop velvet underwear.

    At that time, the new brush technology was used, and a drum made of carbon was used to soften the veil. This fabric feels better, and it is not easy to raise the ball. But a batch of veils that just started to brush have brushed out many holes, all of which are scrapped, and it lost seven or eight one hundred thousand yuan at once.

    Cao Zhixiang admitted to reporters that this year, three guns also encountered another crisis.

    "From 2000 to 2005, the company was in a low ebb because of inventory indigestion."

    Under the pressure of funds, the development and investment of new products at that time have also become very tight.


    Old brand gathered after 80 designers


    To some extent, this difficult period also changed the design logic of management.

    "Now we pay more attention to improving innovation than to disruptive innovation."

    Cao Zhixiang said that at present, R & D accounts for about 2.5%-3% of sales, with annual sales of 12-13 yuan, and about 30 million yuan a year.


    Reporters noted that three guns in recent years, a man of great success.

    Business underwear

    It is a series of small details of design innovation.

    Cao Zhixiang also does not deny that such a small fight "does not cost much money".


    These innovative details include lowering the U collar of men's underwear to second buttons of the shirt, keeping the sleeves of the shirt only nine points long, and the tall coat no longer has the embarrassment of the underwear. Only a few "small designs" make the old fashioned "old man's shirt" into a business undergarment.

    There are more than 60 teams behind the design, many of which are post-80s.

    However, the economic benefits of business underwear which can make eye balls in creativity are relatively limited, which has lasted for 5 years, and currently accounts for only 6-7% of the sales volume.


    Shop to bid farewell to "cigarette paper shop"


    Another important feature of Cao Zhixiang's "design drawings" is store pformation. Compared with detailed design innovation, the amount of investment is much larger, and output is more intuitive.

    "If the brand wants to add additional value, the design must have an overall concept, not only the product itself, but also the packaging and storefront."

    He Jiong, deputy director of Shanghai Creative Industry Exhibition and service platform management center, told reporters.


    "But in the past, our store couldn't talk about design, many underwear hung on the doorframe, and the shop assistant was also very old. It felt like a cigarette shop."

    Although at that time, the way to build a large store was already a strategy of three guns, and the image of cigarette paper store has been maintained for many years.


    "At the beginning, because of the pformation of department stores, we had the largest sales volume in department stores. 5-6 years ago, department stores were hit by supermarkets. Many lingerie counters in shopping malls were moving repeatedly. We were even forced to move from the first floor to the five floor, and their performance declined significantly."


    In Cao Zhixiang's eyes, the beginning of laying a store is the result of the rush of department stores to the high-end.

    He told reporters that in 2006, the original cigarette paper shop has begun to replace.

    But last year, consumers seemed to feel the difference more intuitively.


    "Formerly 10-20 square meters of small shops accounted for the majority, now the average shop area is 50-60 square meters, next year we request 60 square meters below the shop can only be regarded as a half shop, encourage more open 100 square meters of shops, to meet the needs of category display."


    "The average sales volume of the national stores now accounts for 60%-65% of the total.

    Shanghai

    A franchised store can do 30 tens of thousands a day, and only fifty thousand or sixty thousand of the department store counters. "

    Cao Zhixiang told reporters.


    Two or three line city layout becomes bottleneck


    Although the big cities in the big cities still maintain the "four big flower" styles of the textile industry, the expansion of the two or three line cities has become the biggest confusion of Cao Zhixiang's mind.

    "Now our market share in the first tier cities can reach 25%, although the two or three line cities have great potential and not enough penetration, management is a big problem and logistics is also a problem."


    At present, the management of the company is thinking about adopting the franchise mode or the self run mode in the two or three line cities.

    It is reported that the "goose card" under the three guns is the brand of the two or three tier cities in the future. Compared with the similar products, its price will be 2 lower.


    Another big confusion comes from channels.

    "There are so many fake products on the Internet that we think about how to" comfort ".

    In Cao Zhixiang's model, a unified logistics platform is built by the company. When the Internet is mixed up with good and bad businesses, no inventory is required, which is equivalent to adding a channel to the company's sales.

    But compared with other companies, the three guns with huge direct selling networks have to be more careful when they intervene in e-commerce.

    "This year we set up the electricity supplier department, but the strategy is still very cautious. In 2010, the total electricity supplier channel was about 2000000, which is expected to be 5 million this year."

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