The Splendid History Of Yangzhou Tailors In Clothing Culture

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The story of "Shi Shi Zhai Zhai Bao".

One

Special clothing bureau in Qing Dynasty

Tribute to the royal family

Wei Minghua told reporters that there were at least 5 references to Yangzhou's clothing making in the imperial palace of Yangzhou, and the "clothing bureau" was set up in the two Huai salt pportation department.

Kangxi thirty-three years (1694), Suzhou weaving and two Huai Jiang salt history Li Xu play: "advance into the Dragon Boat robe, specially invited the emperor Wan An."

Kangxi's Royal Assent is: "I know."

Li Xu's Dragon Robe may be woven in Suzhou, but it is not ruled out in Yangzhou.

At that time, there was a "clothing bureau" set up on the colorful clothing street on the north side of the two huaiyun department in Yangzhou.

Tongzhi eight years (1869), two Huai salt business is intended to prepare for royal wedding.

In the memorial ceremony, Jiangnan weaving said that the reason why he wrote this memorials was because he "took over two Huai wedding activities, estimated the price of silver, and embroidered the deadline".

Two Huai's work was carried out in the form of "red sheet two pieces, thirty-six pieces of paintings, women's leaders embroidered on one piece", "estimated cost of silver forty-two thousand", and the memorial ceremony said, "only when the works are elaborate, then the embroidery needs to be worked out, and it can be worked out in March."

Embroidery refers to silk, which refers to the material or clothing made of silk.

Tongzhi eleven years (1872), two huaiyun division for Royal Woven Satin crepe and other pieces, please Jiangnan weaving for Beijing.

In the same year (1872), two huaiyun Division will finally make the royal reward Satin crepe, and still ask Jiangnan weaving to interpret Beijing.

This memorials are presented by Jiangnan weaving and Qing Lin. It is said that "Huaian, two Huai should stop running satin silk, hand in the south of the Yangtze River, and do all the weaving in Suzhou."

And said: "check the original leaflets in a total of nineteen thousand eight hundred and fifty pieces of satin and yarn crepe, in addition to two Huai Yun Secretary to consult, has done 30% kinds of satin, yarn crepe, 30% pieces, five thousand nine hundred and fifty-five pieces, the slaves should be woven 70%, satin silk, yarn crepe thirteen thousand eight hundred and ninety-five pieces."

That is to say, from then on, the two Huai salt business will be

All the satin crepe is handed over to Jiangnan and Suzhou weaving.

Emperor Tongzhi's royal assent was: "yes, Qin."

Mr. Wei Minghua believes that the above documents prove that the clothes and materials needed by the royal family in the Qing Dynasty are not only handled by weaving in Suzhou and the south of the Yangtze River, but also partly responsible for the two Huai salt business.

Two

Yangzhou people dress well.

In fact, Yangzhou people have been studying and dressing since ancient times, and of course they attach great importance to clothing and cutting.

In the Qing Dynasty, there was Satin street in Yangzhou. Today, Ganquan road has been a place for gathering silk and cloth.

According to Li Dou's Yangzhou painting boat records,

Many sons street is Satin street, two banks are Satin shop.

The dress of Yang county is still new. Ten years ago, satin used eight regiments.

Later it became the color of the big lotus and the arch blue. In the front, it was still blue, Zhu, ink, silt, and yellow mud. It was used for "red color" and "cherry red".

For every delivery, first, satin and satin, and then

It is called "copy number".

It can be seen that the fashion color of Yangzhou people in the Qing Dynasty has been constantly renovated, and its luxury is no less than today.

Yangzhou also has an old street called Cai Yi Street, which is still there.

As the name suggests, this is a street famous for making clothes.

"Yangzhou painting boat records" wrote:

Cai Yi Street is the first floor of the pportation department, with the old clothes Bureau, and then embroidered goods, costumes, and evaluation clothing shop.

The "clothing bureau" should be an official senior garment shop.

An old tailor living in Cai Cai street, Yangzhou, said that his grandfather and father made clothes in Cai Yi Street. Up to sixty or seventy in the late Qing Dynasty, the clothing store of Cai Cai street had been made.

Although today's colorful street is not as spectacular as it was, there are still garment shops specializing in Tang costume.

The grandfather of the clothing store owner was a costumes, and later his son went to Nanjing, Shanghai and other places apprenticeship, and finally returned to Yangzhou to inherit her ancestral home.

Cao Juren said in the book "spring and autumn of Shanghai":

Shanghai clothing style can be divided into Su bang, yangbang, Ningbang and Ben Gang, each with its own customers.

According to Mr. Wei Minghua, there were more than 2000 clothing shops in Shanghai, and 40000 garment makers. About two hundred thousand people lived there, accounting for almost 1/10 of Shanghai's population.

The tailor, known as the "Gang of Shanghai", actually has very few Shanghai people, and most of the early settlers in Shanghai are Yangzhou.

Some people think that the so-called "Shanghai Gang" tailor is the "Yang Bang" tailor.

Three

"Yang Bang" is not easy to tailor.

Yangzhou's poor husband's footprints all over the north and south.

Mr. Wei Minghua said, "Yang Bang" tailors are very hard.

The footsteps of Yangzhou's poor woman are mostly in the south, such as Shanghai, and sometimes in the north, such as the capital.

Yu Muxia, "the Shanghai scales", says that the craftsmen of Shanghai's tailoring are usually Su bang, Guang bang and Hong Gang; besides, there is a seamstress who does not set up shop but works at home. The owner provides meals and four yuan for a piece of money.

What they do is mostly cloth and children's clothing.

About the poor woman, "Shanghai scales" wrote:

Most of them are women from Jiangbei.

They put up a bamboo basket and a small stool on their arms. In the basket, scissors, bamboo rulers, thread clippings and rags were used to walk around the business.

Their main business is to sew a pair of socks, make off line and patch holes in clothes.

Shopkeepers, factory workers and apprentices in shops, because their wives and parents are not in Shanghai, so they work hard to sew stockings and make up clothes, so their business is good.

As for the interpretation of the word "poverty", it is a special substitute for poor workmen.

Of course, the most common type of clothing store in Yangzhou market is paved shops.

This clothing store usually has two or three houses, the gate is on the street, the apprentice is several people, the entry is an extremely big plank, putting on all kinds of scissors, bamboo ruler, iron, needle, wire, glasses, powder bag, paste, etc., there is a teacher wearing glasses to cut or cut.

The tailor's experience is both broad and calculating, and is often trusted by the neighbours.

In the late Qing Dynasty, a picture was published in the Dian Shi Zhai pictorial, titled "sewing skills and irony", which wrote the story of Yangzhou tailor's witty remarks.

The painting is an old street used to be seen in Yangzhou. There are two storefronts on the street, and the word "ready to wear" is written on the doorway sign.

Above question:

A woman in Yangzhou is cruel and cruel.

One day, a small servant girl fled to the door, under the clothes shop table.

Women are chasing and making their staff.

The maidservant wailed and begged for life, and cried for help.

An old sewing worker means to say, "who will be your ruse if you take care of yourself?"

The woman was depressed and headed down.

Tai Shi Gong said: "speaking in a small way, we can solve disputes."

There are sewing workers.

The tailor has many interesting stories in the folk, especially the story of wit, which is likely to be accessible to tailors.