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China'S Fashion Needs To Make Concerted Efforts To Create "International Fashion Capital"

2013/4/22 14:57:00 32

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recently, the first lady Peng Liyuan chose a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" and "clothing /a" brand when she visited abroad, which aroused widespread public concern.

Local brands such as a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank", "dress less than /a" and how to go to the world have become a hot topic.

for Shanghai, this international metropolis was once the fashion capital of the Far East. Many fashion brands were popular in the country. But since the late twentieth Century, Shanghai has been diluted to some extent as the symbol of the mainstream fashion.

Before P, Donghua University launched the "Shanghai style fashion" trend for the first time. It hopes to promote the fashion fashion of Shanghai city once again, and even lead the world trend.

Then, where are the bottlenecks of China's "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "target=" _blank "designer" /a "to go to the world and where is the way out? Reporters interviewed two professors of Donghua University, Liu Xiaogang and Bian Xiangyang.

They believe that the key to Chinese fashion design is to culture. Local brands must first have the right to speak in terms of values.

status

the decline of the industrial foundation leads to "bottom gas shortage"

Q: in the past, Shanghai's clothing brand was second to none in China, but now it seems to be declining. There is no one in the international line brand. Some people say that this is a designer's problem. The clothes designed by foreign designers are better than those designed by Chinese designers.

Liu Xiaogang: in the late twentieth Century, due to many reasons, Shanghai, as the symbol of the mainstream fashion, was diluted to a certain extent.

A prominent performance is Shanghai's a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" > textile < /a > the proportion of the textile industry in China has gradually declined. The textile industry of Zhejiang, Jiangsu and Shandong has come back to the top, making the leading position of Shanghai's light textile industry facing the test.

The decline of the industrial base has affected the strong position of famous brands and fashion highlands to a certain extent.

the foundation of fashion capital lies in the birth of fashion brand. Even in the relatively vacuum fashion industry soil, even if there are several fashion brands, it can not last long.

In my opinion, only by accelerating the pformation and upgrading of "modern textile" from traditional textile to creative, design and capital oriented brand, can Shanghai return to the prosperous era of "big Shanghai" brand name, fashion trend and strong consumption power.

in fact, some local brands are not inferior in product design, especially for some relatively low-end brands, regardless of their style or quality, many products are quite different from foreign products.

If the trademarks of domestic and foreign clothing products are exchanged, consumers may be misplaced in brand recognition.

At present, the consumption concept of "foreign moon circle" is still prevalent among domestic consumers.

There are three reasons: first, the lack of national self-confidence of Chinese consumers and the citizenization of Western values have led to disdain and prejudice towards local brands; two, the contemporary clothing originated from the west, and the immature local clothing brands are not as good as western brands in general; three, some negative reputation in "China manufacturing", and inevitably bring disaster to the domestic garment industry.

the "foreign moon circle" mentality is difficult to change at the moment, .

P: Q: can this "foreign moon be more round" mentality change in the future?

Liu Xiaogang: to eliminate the psychology of domestic consumers is a very complicated systematic project.

In short, it is necessary to ensure China's strong cultural and economic status in the international arena in the long run. Secondly, we should reinvuse people's "Chinese dream" to awaken the patriotic and national pride of the Chinese people, and pform them into the cohesion of Chinese consumers to local brands. Finally, the brand positioning of local garment enterprises is accurate, business ethics and self-discipline are provided, and the market will provide products with strong quality in design and quality.

Bian Xiangyang: Since China's reform and opening up, there has been a trend of "worshipping foreign elements" in some industries such as clothing, which is a common phenomenon of a country's cultural development in a certain historical period.

After entering the twenty-first Century, with the rise of China, we realized the importance of cultural soft power and began to focus on local brands and design. This is a good phenomenon.

For the clothing industry, there is no need to pay too much attention to "a href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "target=" _blank "clothing" /a "who is the first lady.

On the one hand, the local brand needs the support of the public's national consciousness; on the other hand, the local brand enterprises should reflect on what they have done for the society, and whether they can provide the best clothing products to the domestic consumers instead of turning them into a tool to earn high profits.

the price of local brand is higher than that of foreign countries /p >

Q: now the price of clothing of local brand is too expensive, a garment is often several thousand yuan, while western countries are mostly cheaper.

In this way, even if the nationals have patriotic sentiments again, if the price exceeds their mental capacity, they can only abandon their purchase.

Liu Xiaogang: the international garment industry is generally global sourcing, with different brands. If it is purely local manufacturing, the cost will be relatively high.

In our country, because of the imperfect retail system of clothing, there are some irregularities in the whole channel, resulting in a sharp increase in the operating costs of many manufacturers.

On the other hand, the cost of garment industry is rising constantly, for example, the labor cost is rising continuously.

These factors are the reasons for the high price of some local a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" target= "_blank" brand clothing "/a".

of course, to cater to the psychology of consumers is also a reason.

Many domestic consumers feel that the price of clothing is more expensive and the quality will be better.

Now, the price of domestic brand clothing is generally around 8 times the cost price, the price is high, and then the discount is promoted.

This reflects that there is no effective communication channel between consumer groups and brands, which can be regarded as a self-discipline issue for independent brands.

way out

Shanghai culture helps Chinese design go abroad. /p >

Q: this week, Donghua University released the fashion trend of Shanghai style in "Donghua Fashion Week", hoping to provide guidance for the design of Shanghai local brand.

Shanghai style culture is rooted in Shanghai's Shanghai culture.

Do you think today we will discuss the significance of Shanghai style and Shanghai style culture for our clothing going out of the country?

Liu Xiaogang: we have released the fashion trend in the past. This is a fashion trend based on clothing, which emphasizes "Shanghai style".

We believe that the urban development of Shanghai today has the cultural foundation for publishing Shanghai style culture.

Shanghai style fashion is guided by Shanghai style culture, and fashion is dissolved in culture, and fashion is expressed by design.

In addition, we have launched a popular Shanghai website matching the book "popular Shanghai".

This website contains the main contents of the book, which brings together a large number of Shanghai style designers and their work information. The industry and the general public can freely access the latest fashion trend analysis report of the website.

Bian Xiangyang: the development of clothing has something to do with the spread of culture and civilization.

From seventeenth Century to nineteenth Century, Britain and France had strong national power and great cultural influence.

Italy has been following French fashion.

In the 30s of last century, the Italy government began to emphasize the need to revitalize its clothing industry. A foundation was set up to support Italy's local fabrics and local products.

After the 50s of last century, because of the Marshall plan, Americans bought a lot of clothing and fabrics in Italy, and France was in the recovery stage of World War II.

After 70s, Milan clothing began to become famous. Italy designers began to attract worldwide attention.

"P" and take the United States as an example. In the late 50s, there was a cultural movement in the United States. Designers began to emphasize local culture and made Americans feel that the local brand was really for the people.

Since then, the global brand recognition of American clothing has been highly recognized.

let western society accept "Chinese element" /p >

Q: the "designer brand" has appeared in China for 30 years. I feel that the overall performance of Chinese designers is good, at least very hard, and there is a trend of continuous upward trend.

But to really go to the world, these designers always feel a little worse. What do you think this is?

Liu Xiaogang: at present, the main channel for Chinese designers to go to the mainstream market of the world is to work abroad, or to create their own brands abroad, and let their talents be recognized by the world through good professional performance or business performance. For example, there are Chinese designers in Dior and other international brands.

Strictly speaking, these channels can only be said to exist.

This is mainly a cultural and aesthetic issue, and personal expertise is not a major obstacle.

Because clothing is a commodity containing a large number of cultural connotations, to enable western society to accept Chinese designers, first of all, these designers should be able to express their cultural orientation and aesthetic taste in a familiar way.

Although their design can include "Chinese elements", these "Chinese elements" should be loved by western society and can be carried on clothing products with practical functions.

Chinese people cheered and cheered on the Chinese designer's works in international public occasions.

Generally speaking, the works of Chinese designers in foreign markets are not as much concerned as we think, and far less attention than Chinese.

Their concern is often derived from curiosity, but curiosity and acceptance are not a concept. People can appreciate it because they are curious, but they may not be accepted by appreciation. They may not be able to really understand it because they do not understand the cultural symbols in these designs.

For example, the "dragon" that Chinese people love and worship may be just a monster to foreigners. If we want them to have a thorough understanding of the Chinese cultural connotation, they will be almost extravagant.

So culture is the key.

combined with "Chinese elements" to understand Chinese culture /p >

P: Q: as you mentioned just now, Chinese design is going to the world. Culture is very important.

In recent years, some Chinese stars have been wearing Chinese elements such as dragon robes, cranes, blue and white porcelain when attending the International Film Festival.

But the designers show the Chinese elements in this exaggerated way to show their clothes and flaunt themselves. Is this a lack of cultural self-confidence? Is it necessary for Chinese elements to go to the world in this way?

Bian Xiangyang: there are many ways to design Chinese elements in clothing, such as dragon robes and blue and white porcelain are purely symbolic designs. They are also a way to use Chinese elements in costume design.

However, I prefer to combine Chinese elements with the lifestyle and fashion elements of modern Chinese people. This seems more natural and better. This is a relatively high level of applying Chinese elements to costume design.

different designers have different perspectives on Chinese culture.

Clothing reflects the designer's personal aesthetic tendency.

I hope Chinese designers should know more about Chinese culture and dig more about Chinese elements.

China has a long history and a lot of achievements. It can be integrated into the current Chinese design, whether it is human history or landscape.

China's modern fashion design starts later than foreign countries. In the course of development, it may encounter such or such regret. Our attitude towards Chinese designers should be encouraging efforts.

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Q: so what do you think is the perfect way to apply Chinese elements to dress design?

Bian Xiangyang: to enable foreigners to recognize and accept Chinese elements, first of all, let the Chinese people recognize them, they are willing to wear them, otherwise they are not realistic.

P: Q: what does Chinese element mean to Chinese designers? Is there no way to push the design without Chinese elements to the international market?

Liu Xiaogang: I think, "Chinese design" can be understood as two meanings, one is "Chinese design", in other words, it is the design of a native Chinese, and the two is "Chinese style design", which is based on Chinese traditional design.

The former does not deliberately emphasize the so-called "Chinese elements", but focuses on the national attributes of the design subjects; the latter should have a typical "Chinese element", emphasizing that the inspiration or material of design elements are taken from China.

In fact, foreign designers can also use the "Chinese elements" to complete the design, such as Yves Saint Laurent, John Galiano and other international fashion designers have made many fashion shows at a number of fashion conferences, using a large number of typical "Chinese elements" inspired by the clothing series, caused a lot of sensations, won countless people's eyeballs.

So, is such design considered "Chinese design" or what kind of "Chinese design" is it? Therefore, the two argument in this issue can not be simplified.

of course, if we look at the appearance characteristics of the design results, the design with Chinese elements is easier to be identified, and it is known as "Chinese design".

Traditionally, according to the designer's nationality, the Chinese designer's design finished with Chinese elements is often referred to as "Chinese design", and the design completed by foreign designers with Chinese elements is called "Chinese style".

sometimes, it is difficult to distinguish between the two.

Therefore, in order to make Chinese designers "truly integrate into the mainstream of western design", it is not directly related to whether or not they must or must abandon Chinese elements. The key lies in whether the design materials from China can be treated in line with international aesthetic standards and fashion interest.

strong > local brands should have the right to speak in terms of values /p >

Q: at present, in the field of clothing, whether the high-end market or the so-called fast marketing, fast fashion has been preempted, the local brand seems to have no prospects for development.

Bian Xiangyang: from the perspective of Shanghai, it seems that the middle and low end market has been preempted, but from the national market analysis, the share has not reached the share of controlling the market. Secondly, we put forward the Chinese brand to the world from 1999, and foreign brands go all the way to the Chinese market, while the domestic government encourages Chinese independent brands to go abroad and to take a foothold in the international arena. This is not conducive to the development of the domestic independent brands.

the independent clothing brand should first occupy the high-end effect in the fashion value chain, and have the right to speak in the clothing value. If we can not grasp the most essential core, everything else is floating clouds. If we want to get the right to speak on the value chain, the best way is to do well the Chinese market. This is the first issue.

Second, our products should meet the needs of consumers and create more consumers' needs. Only in this way can we lead the market values. What we lack is creating this link.

Our Donghua University to do Shanghai style fashion activities, is to create a consumer group's desire for fashion, in the fashion value chain forward, towards the high-end, have the right to speak, only in this way, China's own brand can develop faster and better.

Creating "international fashion capital" still needs to work hard together, /p >

Q: it is understood that there are nearly 100 original designers with certain influence in Shanghai.

Many people believe that Shanghai will become an international fashion capital in the future, as well as Paris, Milan, London and New York.

In your opinion, does Shanghai have the conditions to become the sixth international fashion capital?

Liu Xiaogang: as an international metropolis, Shanghai has the advantages of industrial concentration, talent concentration and multicultural concentration. The knowledge level and lifestyle of the urban people can make the fashion creative industry develop in a wider range.

The designation of "the capital of design" has strengthened the city orientation of Shanghai's creativity and culture as the most important element of economic development. It should shoulder the responsibility of leading the trend and let the world recognize the design brand of China.

the development of fashion and creative industry is inseparable from the creation of the environment.

On the one hand, the achievements of personnel training, scientific research and discipline construction of characteristic disciplines in universities should be "spillover campus" to support the development of fashion and creative industries in this city; on the other hand, schools should be placed more directly in fashion and creative culture, fully enjoy the resources of fashion and creativity, and enhance the ability to train innovative and creative talents.

take Donghua University as an example. The "Donghua href=" http://www.91se91.com/news/index_h.asp "fashion > /a" creative industry gathering area jointly constructed by our university and Changning District is one of the two key projects of Shanghai's "design capital". It provides a platform for mutual exchanges and cooperation among colleges, associations and enterprises in various countries, providing strong support for the development of Shanghai's fashion and creative industry.

In the future, the research and dissemination of fashion trends is not only a means to boost local fashion brands, but also to create mainstream fashion values, thereby affecting the city's spiritual culture.

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