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Local High-End Brands Need To Sharpen Their Brand In A Long Time.

2013/6/5 22:25:00 44

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local high-end brands need to improve their quality and shape their brands in the long run and growth. There is still a long way to go for the spring of high-end brands in China.

The trend of the fashion trend of P is just a moment in a twinkling. In March this year, the "two exceptions" and "useless" outsiders were not familiar with the "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "clothing" /a "brand debut. It was like an accident. But after they filled our ears, the clothing independent brand listed companies also became the stars in the capital market. The creation of Da Yang, Lang Zi shares and Kaiser shares were all red flaming.

but if you turn around to see Shanghai the Bund No. 3 in April, the Giorgio Armani flagship store that has been stationed for nearly 10 years is closed, the Bund 6 Dolce&Gabbana flagship store is closed, the Bund 18 Patek Philippe (Patek Philippe), Boucheron (Boucheron) and other top brands have been withdrawn, and the luxury brand of foreign countries has encountered the longest winter in China since last year.

In the 2012 China Fashion index white paper released by fashion media group in January this year, 35.6% of the respondents said that they had purchased at least one local a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > designer "/a" brand clothing, but 97% of those who consumed designer brands also had international luxury brands. On the contrary, only 42.5% of consumers would choose to buy local designer brands after purchasing international luxury goods.

after a fruitful event marketing, people's eyes shifted from the big brand to the local designer for the first time. People's cognition of the local high-end brands seems to have been opened overnight, but the market creation and consumption environment has not changed substantially.

perhaps, as Hong Huang, the founder of the original designer brand shop, mint glutinous rice onion, said, if the marketing event's cognitive boost to the local high-end brands is 10 points, then the recognition of domestic brand value is 5 points, but only 1~2 points for the ultimate long-term market purchase.

The spring of domestic high-end brands may still have a long way to go.

strong > high-end quality means /p >

In addition to the "exceptions" and "useless" under the glowing lamp, there are many mature high-end brands in China. Guo Pei's Rose House, Li Guilian's founding company, Xia Hua's Yiwen group, and even the high-end brand source Blanc de Chine of Hongkong origin belong to this category.

Zhang Yongli, head of public relations and marketing in the former China Blanc de Chine, believes that the combination of these three elements is the core product quality of high-end brands, because of the scarcity of fabric quality, the taste contained in the design and the highly targeted services. P

the work of Guo Pei, the founder of Rose Square, focuses on the exquisite embroidery. She has always insisted on using the best material. Her advanced customization will even use more than 10000 a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > cloth "/a", which is worth the same as Yu Yunjin.

Although the skirt will be embroidered all the time, Guo Pei will not be allowed to replace it. "Every time I communicate with embroidery workers, I explain to them that the fabric is exquisite and precious. Embroidery workers will also be very attentively, and their workmanship will be more exquisite, and many things are irreplaceable".

this is also the quality of every detail that the source Blanc de Chine stresses, and there should be no oversight.

The average diameter of the wool contained in each fabric of Italy fabric manufacturer Ermenegildo Zegna "Trofeo" is 17 microns, which has better vertical sense and can quickly eliminate wrinkles. A horse can only produce dozens of grams of horse hair, and its density can reach several microns. The top fabrics of these thousands of yuan per meter are the common fabrics of Blanc de Chine in advanced customization.

in fact, the production of high-end brands requires designers and craftsmen spend a lot of time polishing, which is more obvious in the brand's advanced customization business.

The factory of Blanc de Chine has 300 craftsmen, who need at least 10~15 years of advanced customization experience. In Guo Pei's experience, a set of ordinary garments needs 10~15 working days. If 10 workdays, 1 workers 1 days and 8 hours of work load are 80 working hours, and this process will undergo more than ten processes, each procedure needs strict quality inspection.

To be a brand, it is necessary to define the brand positioning and target customers, and also need to know what products and services they need. The customers of high-end brands are mostly businessmen or celebrities, so high-end brands also need to build high-quality service systems. P

In the customer group of roshouse, 1/3 is the star customer. From the cardboard, the cloth, the sample clothes, the tailoring to the sample clothes, every work will go through a set of product development processes. And Guo Peiye also thinks, "the advanced customization is not only about the single result of < a target=" _blank "href=" http:/ /www.91se91.com/ "> clothes < /a >, it is the experience of giving customers the whole process.

P, which focuses on high-end men's wear, provides a housekeeping service that will provide guests with dress advice on various occasions, help customers manage wardrobes, and match the outfits together. If guests do not have time to shop in the store, designers can go to the airport to measure the size before boarding.

He engraved his favorite Helios on the custom buttons of Huang Bo Bo, or carved the cuffs of Tian Yu with the traditional Chinese craft, which are personalized services provided by "Yi Wen" according to customer preferences.

however, the designer is the core value of the brand, and the design always changes with the fabric. Therefore, the designer not only needs to draw, but also needs to know the fabric, otherwise the designer can not communicate with the craftsmen.

Guo Pei thought, "if we master the difference between natural fiber and synthetic fiber or chemical fiber, we have seen dozens of different combinations of cotton and linen, and thoroughly studied their luster and density. Only on fabrics, designers will need a few years to accumulate."

in fact, as Zhang Yongli thought, "designers with profound artistic culture, excellent communication skills and design tastes are always the biggest scarce resources in China."

And the more mature brands, they have generally experienced 15~20 years of brand accumulation, and their chief designer has more than 20 years of design experience.

Like young luxury goods, there is no young top designer.

Guo Pei believes that the growth of designers usually takes 30 years. After the first 10 years of study and knowledge of the fabric learning period, and the self verification of second 10 years in practice, it can enter the third 10 years and have enough practice and accomplishment.

The brands such as rose Fang and Yi Wen have gone through the learning period and self verification period. Only when the horizon is wide enough, can the quality be controlled more accurately.

how to build brand /p >

"the process of building high-end brand designers is often a word of mouth spread in social circles," Zhang Yongli said.

The existing high-end designer brands have different backgrounds, but their original designers belong to the two category, or from the public, or at the top level. Different brands also have different brand building paths.

source Blanc de Chine founder Yang Bingliang is the seventh son of Yang Zhiyun, the founder of Hongkong Jing Fu, who is famous. Jackie Chan, Zhang Ziyi, even Donald Tsang, former chief executive of Hongkong, belong to the family's existing social circle. Therefore, over the past 20 years, it has been enough to open up the market only by word of mouth.

of course, not all high-end brands have such a rich origin. Most of the brand building process starts with the accumulation of word-of-mouth from the niche, and gradually extends to the star group or the political and business circles with the development of the brand.

Guo Pei was already the "top ten designer" before establishing the rose house. The business in the first few years was only a business contact between acquaintances and friends, and gradually spread word of mouth by relying on embroidery works with exquisite embroidery and perfect lines. From rich wife to Zhang Yi, they also gradually attracted a large number of star customers such as Zhou Tao, Qing Dong and Zhang Ziyi.

The same is true of Mao Jihong, the founder of the "exception". He has been actively working with the government and has participated in various official associations.

Li Guilian, who was born in a peasant family and started from 85 employees and dozens of sewing machines, was founded by Li Guilian, whose brand awareness and marketing system were built. In 1995, Dayang launched its own brand "creation" Menswear, then tried to cooperate with Italy brand Zegna, and hired foreign sales and marketing managers from all over the world, even employing over 30 designers and marketers overseas.

"every customer is our live advertisement."

If a man is dressed properly in our suit, I will send him to it, and some men who are not suitable for our clothing style, even if he wants to buy our clothes any more, I will try every means to persuade him to take off.

This is Li Guilian's most classic marketing concept, and she will not let go of any brand promotion opportunity.

In 2010, Buffett went to Dalian to attend the opening ceremony of a new factory at the Isis Carle metal products company. David Margalit, director of global marketing of Dayang, proposed Buffett's attempt to create a customized tailored suit based on his friend's relationship, which was praised by Buffett.

through word-of-mouth and circle communication, we will gradually accumulate and expand marketing or systematic marketing teams. Both of them will lead to the same goal in the end.

Zhang Yongli believes that "for the local high-end brands, the best way to promote the product is to accumulate a certain stage of its product quality and channel, and naturally intermingle with the celebrity circle, rather than unilaterally invite stars to add points for their brands". Many times, large doses of cardio agents will shorten the life span of new brands.

however, no matter which way they go, they all have their own distinctive product quality and brand story. Li Guilian attracted Buffett by virtue of the rich story from "farmer to clothing tycoon", while Guo Pei's "Chinese wedding dress" reproduced the eastern people's craft culture with the Western carving techniques. The yvin group took the "Chinese man who cherished emotion" as its own service object, "storytelling", which is the experience that Chinese high-end brands learned from overseas luxury brands.

the situation of local brand /p >

Less than 15 thousand employees of Dayang's creation, the annual output of 10 million garments, or the annual turnover of the P group, is actually the amount that most high-end local brands can hardly match. Most of them are still on the road of brand accumulation and growth.

for the brands no longer satisfied with the operation of small teams, labor costs will often become their pressure. The Rose House relies entirely on hand woven embroidery. The total number of manual masters responsible for the whole process in the rose house is 150, equivalent to 1/3 of all the people in the rose garden, while the cost of tailoring garments of an ordinary fabric of Rose Square is more than half of that cost from handicraft.

The high-end customization part of the source Blanc de Chine is produced by one to one, and all orders are not pipelined. In 2012, it was also laid off because of the rise in labor costs.

high-end brands will develop their own advanced customization business later, but as Wang Yutao, director of L2 design of Lon Lang's new brand, said, "advanced customization is not an industry that can make quick money. It is different from doing business, and there will be no high return."

Therefore, most of the high-end brands in China are mainly made up of ready-made clothes or tailored garments, and the high cost of advanced customization is also filled by the sales of garment parts.

"P", so business returns are a long time for many high-end brands to face. Versace has just gone from years of loss into the profit balance. The rose mill, regarded as one of the most mature high-end custom brands in China, has long faced the pressure of profit. Even in the period of the company's more than 20 team, it gave up a short skirt for the other companies to do product development, only after the 2008 brand was established for 12 years to achieve a profit balance.

except for those brands with more than 10 years of accumulation, there are more young local designers growing up. The new generation of designers such as Wang, Huang Qiaoran, Wang Peixin and so on have also made their mark on the show of independent designers.

No local brand has high positioned capital from the beginning, and the initial order or liquidity does not always support high-end fabric extrusion. Many brands are not as good as they seem.

Young p independent designers are unable to pay the high rent that they need to enter department stores, nor do they have enough money to run a direct store. Therefore, many designers sell channels to cooperate with buyers, such as peppermint glutinous rice scallion shop, which has signed more than 100 local designers and provided them with a platform for sale. Taobao also launched designer channels in May 20th, reducing their risk and operating costs, and giving them more design space.

however, many designers have a wait-and-see attitude towards capital entry, and most of them have no mature series and sizes based on the constraints of cost and team size. The further expansion of the market is liable to encounter bottlenecks. Perhaps, as Wang Zaishi thought, "small brands have only two ways to go to the end, starving and being bought", which may be the biggest problem for those young designers to expand the market, but in the current market environment, many young designers have not yet grown up to the high end and have already died.

The concept of "P > fashion has only been introduced into China for only twenty or thirty years. The Chinese mentality of clothing consumption may be moving towards the personality and taste from the big cult of foreign countries, but the stage of pride in wearing domestic brands is also far from coming.

At present, many designers themselves need to improve their quality and shape brand in the long run and grow up, and also need to gradually develop their own operation team and marketing system.

As Guo Pei said, "maybe five years later, China will have mature local high-end brands, but now we need to give us time to go through the path of growth."