Looking For Breakthrough In Milan Men'S Clothing Week Crisis
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The Milan men's dress week, which opened just before P, appears to be no different from previous years. However, behind this lively atmosphere, the most embarrassing plight in recent years is hidden. < /p >
< p > [media takes London men's wear week comparison, accusing Milan menswear week has not provided sufficient exhibition platform for young a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" designer /a.
Boselli, the chairman of the board who was poked to the sore spot, had to take the second time to participate in the defense of Chinese designer Ji Wenbo of Milan men's wear week to prove the attitude of the chamber of Commerce to try new things. < /p >
< p > from June 22nd to the day of the press release, four days of spring and summer 2014 Milan men's wear week has been more than half.
In just two days, the official schedule of 22 men's clothing brands from Italy, Britain, France and China took turns to ignite the summer heat wave of men's fashion for the city.
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In the same warm sunshine, this year's Milan men's wear week looks different from previous years: the 100 year old Ermenegildo Zegna has changed its style, and its style and tailoring have always maintained a gentlemanly manner; Dolce & Gabbana's new season a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing "/a". Inspiration still comes from Sicily, rustic and luxurious. P is always crowded with professional watching media and buyers, and of course, those who do not have letters of admission but dress up to get dressed up and wait to be photographed by the street.
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< p > however, behind this lively atmosphere, this year's Milan men's wear week is experiencing the most difficult predicament in recent years.
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< p > < strong > farce opening > /strong > /p >
At the beginning of P, the bad news came out of Milan men's wear week.
The first is the Jimmy Choo brand 2014 spring and summer men's series press conference, leaving Milan men's wear week and moving to London.
Jimmy Choo brand design director Sandra Choi, without exception, announced excitedly: "London is the inspiration city of the Jimmy Choo brand, and our new store is opening in Denver street. It's time to move to London!" Burberry Prosum also confirmed that it would move the show from Milan Venice road to Kensington Gardens in London.
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< p > the two brands are not Italy's native brands, and Burberry Prosum's return to London is more reasonable.
But then Italy's Dolce Gabbana, a native male menswear brand, displays the new custom products in London new store, which is full of "run away".
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< p > first of all, this is the Italy fashion giant Giorgio Armani. He thinks that the focus of Milan fashion week is to show the creativity of Italy to the world, not to show the usual forms of activities of Italy brand when making a show in the Giorgio.
In fact, the old man said something in an attempt to justify himself for years of being reluctant to join the Italy National Fashion Council.
He also said that for many years, putting the main line brand Giorgio Armani on the last day of Milan men's wear week is of no strategic significance - at least most of the media can be held until the end of fashion week.
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< p > facing the "disobedient" brand represented by Burberry Prosum and Jimmy Choo, Pacio Bertelli, vice chairman of the new board of directors of Italy Fashion Fashion Association, and Prada CEO (Patrizio Bertelli) are quite tough.
He said before the men's wear week that if the above brands were willing, it would be too late to come back to join the June men's wear week.
Mario Boselli, chairman of the board of directors of the association, is very respectable. "These two brands should be deleted from the fashion calendar. We can help arrange their shows, but they must be voluntary," Mario Boselli said.
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< p > in fact, the days of Dolce & Gabbana are also not easy.
Earlier, the judgment of the Dolce & Gabbana tax evasion case surfaced, and the designer and boss were sentenced to 1 billion years in prison for tax evasion in one year and eight months.
In view of the complexity of the legal procedures in Italy, the verdict will not come into force immediately, and it can still be appealed.
It is reported that since the European debt crisis, in response to a huge amount of treasury bonds, Italy has raised taxes on luxury goods and intensified its investigation of tax evasion cases.
Similar allegations were encountered by Armani and Valentino, but later ended in withdrawal.
The decision to fuel the flames has caused the fashion media to explode and even begin to wonder whether the Dolce / Gabbana men's show will be successfully staged under the pressure of resistance.
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< p >, then, after a farce, we saw an ironic scene in the 2014 spring and summer Milan men's dress week.
Although Dolce & Gabbana is the most popular show on the first day of men's clothing, it does not appear on the official agenda as if it were an unlicensed nomad.
While Armani's father continued his position of not joining the Italy Fashion Association, but his Giorgio Armani ended on the agenda.
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< p > Dolce & Gabbana, the new season's big show is not easy to start alone with the pressure from the official agencies, but after the end of the show, a naked male is welcome.
A stout handsome man took off her coat immediately, wearing only a pair of red sports < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes < /a > running in the center of T platform.
It is doubting whether this is dissatisfaction with Dolce & Gabbana tax evasion, or a hype after Dolce & Gabbana experienced many setbacks. < /p >
< p > < strong > the chamber of Commerce urgent to reform < /strong > < /p >
< p > in fact, the decline of Milan fashion week is not an acute disease. Many years ago, Valentino and Diesel went to New York, and the brands left behind in Milan were less and less.
Although the protagonist of this farce is Dolce & Gabbana, a Italy Fashion Association has been pushed back to the forefront by the media because of a series of events.
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"P", as early as last September, Robert Caavalli (Roberto Cavalli) pointed out the confusion in the management of Italy national fashion house.
He accused herself of being a member of the chamber of commerce but still looking at the faces of the two non chamber members of Giorgio Armani and Dolce &Gabbana.
Even those "foreign brands", such as Gucci and Fendi, which originated in Italy but were bought by French group Kering and LVMH, are better than Italy brand, such as Roberto Cavalli.
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At P on June 23rd at eight a.m. local time in Milan, Italy fashion chamber under heavy pressure finally held a news conference at Milan Four Seasons Hotels to announce the new member of the board of directors.
"First Financial Daily" reporters found at the scene, although the new members to join, but the main members change little.
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< p > many media questioned the performance of the fashion house at the scene, such as lack of awareness of communication, loopholes in the updating of Internet information in fashion week and so on.
Many of them went to London Fashion Week and two brands did not want to join the event, which became the focus of media inquiries.
Mario Boselli, chairman of the board, gave the latest news after a long series of official statements: Giorgio Armani has made it clear that he joined the chamber of Commerce, but specific matters are still in contact.
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Pacio Bertelli, vice chairman of the chamber of Commerce, who turned to the scene, asked p how to explain another important brand of Prada group, Miu Miu, in Paris.
Pacio Bertelli replied from the perspective of design director Murcia Prada (Miuccia Prada): "she worked day and night in the studio, and every detail of the show should be taken care of.
So it's absolutely impossible to produce two shows in the same week.
If it were still fashionable week in Milan for second weeks, that would be possible.
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< p > the on-the-spot media continues to compare the London men's wear week, accusing Milan men's clothing week that it has not provided enough display platform for young designers so that Milan men's clothing week is lacking in new ideas and no successor.
Mario Boselli, the chairman of the board who was poked to the sore spot, had to take the second time to take part in the defense of Ji Wenbo, a Chinese designer of Milan men's wear week, to prove the attitude of the fashion industry to try new things.
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< p > < strong > seek new strength < /strong > /p >
< p > despite problems and even deep-rooted problems, the Italy Fashion Association has come to the challenge of questioning at a critical juncture, which has led the public to see its attitude towards change.
In the evening of June 23rd, the works of Chinese designer Ji Wenbo did surprise the whole men's dress week.
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< p > this show is located in the famous historical building Sai Bon Luo Ni palace, No. 16 Venice Road, Milan. It is the permanent exhibition of Burberry Prosum in Milan.
For the designer brand of Jiwenbo, the general impression of the Chinese people is still on the "Li Lang business men's clothing".
In fact, in 2007, for the first time in Milan men's clothing week, Wen Wen took the elements of Terracotta Army and Peking Opera and made a stir.
In the past, Ji Wen Bo had participated in the special fashion week of the international fashion week with Chinese outstanding "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ ">" fashion designer "/a" >, and entered the official activities schedule of Milan men's wear week as the first Chinese designer. It was also the first foreign designer to launch a special event in Tokyo fashion week.
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< p > although Wen Wen Bo chose black and white as the main color conservatively, cutting and splicing obviously showed that it was different from the local brands in Italy.
The designer takes Chinese wine culture as inspiration, and the herbaceous pattern is extracted to be widely used in suits and shirts.
The silver and black silk fabrics are more relaxed and tailored, showing the flow feeling of "water" in clothing.
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< p > and the performance of other permanent brands on men's clothing week is also interpreted by the media as "seeking power exploration".
For example, Dolce and Gabbana embrace the embrace of the gods, inspired by the myths and legends of Sicily dating back to ancient Greece.
The image of Jose, the king of the gods and the symbol of the sun god Apollo, representing the incredible strength and significance of victory, incarnate the language symbol of the designer, as the printing design runs through the whole spring and summer series.
The fabric is made of a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" fabric with different texture patterns, cloth less than /a, linen blended dry sand, jute yarn, pure silk fabric and pure cotton.
In the Sicilian local man's interpretation, he added a bit of simple sense of strength.
Trussardi, a highly respected local brand, is also on the road to finding strength.
A new season of men's wear inspired by the desert journey simplifies printing and color changes and focuses on more precise tailoring and more advanced fabrics.
White, beige, brown and even light red, which often appear in the autumn and winter, can be seen everywhere, and a large number of Python windbreaker and coats will provide a powerful boost to this desert survival game.
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< p > despite the continuous storm, this is a must for Milan's fashion capital.
The significance of this city to the fashion industry, especially for the men's clothing in the world, will remain unchanged.
Soon, Milan men's wear week will usher in the third most exciting days.
Starting from half past nine in the morning, Diesel Black Gold, Emporio Armani, Gucci, John Richmond, Etro, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk, and Gold will be staged in turn to bring in a new fashion force for Milan.
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