Liang Zi: The Most Expensive Silk Is Produced In Ming Dynasty.

Liang Zi is known as the "environment-friendly master" in the fashion industry.

As a fashion designer, she won the double award of the top awards of the China International Fashion Week, the Golden Summit Award and the best woman dress designer, and participated in the fashion week of Paris. As an environmentalist, she discovered and protected the traditional Chinese precious silk fabric, which was on the verge of losing, and turned the 500 years ago into Paris's Le Louvre Museum.

Cumbersome craft July 29th, 4 in the morning.

Lun Jiao Town, Shunde, Guangdong, has not yet been waked up. The Cheng Yi Tan plant, located in the middle of the town of Lun Jiao, has already started.

The Lun Lun overpass is over the top of the drying plant.

The plant consists of three grasslands and two workshops, with a total area of 20 mu.

The ground, walls, tables and chairs, beds and so on in the factory are dyed brown by years of brown sauce.

Outside the factory, it is stacked with cinder like dregs, which are left after extracting the juice of dregs, which can be used as fuel or as a fertilizer.

A small river is surrounded by the sun drying plant, and sporadic lights are scattered across the river.

In the river, the workers who salvaged the river mud have already started off in the boat.

Not far away, more than 70 naked workers were preparing to cross the river.

This is the most crucial process for making the silk, and must be finished before sunrise.

The river mud is taken from a river that is not polluted far from here.

The iron content in the river mud is just right. It can react with tannin in brown sauce and turn black.

By the light, the workers fumbled for the semi finished silk.

On the side of a narrow ditch with black river mud, 120 pieces of semi finished silk are facing upside down and stacked neatly.

The workers stood on both sides of the ditch respectively.

On the other hand, the workers smeared the river mud evenly on the silk, while the workers on the other side folded the heavy silk covered with river mud and levelled it for another 40 minutes.

More than 4 points, Liang came to the sun drying plant.

Stop and stall.

Several times a year, she starts from a company in Shenzhen and drives a car for 2 hours to the drying plant.

Liang has concentrated on the design of Guangdong silk fashion for 14 years, and owns a fashion company named after himself.

And has maintained a tacit cooperation with Cheng Yi Liu factory for more than 10 years, and the dried Bashang factory supplies the materials of the silk fabric of the fashion company.

In July 27th, it was heavy rain in Shunde, and the factory was closed.

July 28th is the birthday of Liang's husband, Huang Zhihua.

Huang Zhihua is a classmate of Liang Zi's University. Husband and wife are cooperative entrepreneurs. The husband is the general manager and manages the company's business. His wife is the design director.

Liang noticed the weather forecast in July 29th and knew in advance that it was not raining.

The sky in the early morning is very blue, like the color of Van Gogh's pen.

Liangzi and 7 workers were standing on the side of the ditch, dipping the river mud with mops, and evenly spreading them on the semi finished products of the glistening silk.

The mop filled with river mud is very heavy. It needs to be applied back and forth. It needs waist, hands and legs to work hard.

Here, every worker's fingernails are black, because they are exposed to the juice of Dioscorea perennial all the year round. When they touch the river mud, they become black and hard to wash away.

At 5:30, 40 minutes of poplin was placed, and 8 workers moved to the riverside.

Ahead of him was a young man less than 18 years old. He shouted "Hi", and the 8 workers joined forces to drop the silk on the river.

The young man has worked for several years, "head man". Here, every procedure seems simple, but it is all responsible by the special person.

Another 3 workers washed the river mud on the river silk.

They worked very hard all the year round, grabbing the two ends of the silk screen, pumping hard on the left and right sides, and the river was slapped loudly, making a rhythmic sound.

The washed silk was thrown hard, like the sleeves of Peking Opera, and then washed again.

After washing, the front of the glistening silk becomes black.

Japanese businessmen once came to the drying plant to produce the whole process, but they failed to succeed in mass production in Japan.

One of the reasons is that river mud used for crossing river mud is unique to Shunde.

After washing the silk, the sky has been lightening.

The silk is laid on the grass in order, and the bamboo sticks are pressed at both ends to prevent curling.

Then, several workers sprinkled the buttercup on the spreading silk.

This is the last time to seal Ranunculus.

After drying, we must go through the last procedure: "spreading fog".

Because of the hard feel of the silk at this time, in order to make it soft, it has to be spread out on the grass in the dark.

The roots of Twilight are moistened by absorbing moisture from the soil, and the silk is softened by absorbing moisture from the grass.

After finishing all these processes, the silk can not be used. It must be placed for 3-6 months and washed out before it can be used for making garments.

At 7:30, the women in the workshop had cooked porridge.

The workers eat four meals a day.

After eating, a new round of silk production was started in the workshop: squeezing the buttercup and the leaking water. There was no air conditioning in the workshop, and the fan blows blows.

There is no modern production machine. Only large and small cask can be used to hold different concentrations of brown juice.

Workers use dregs to filter the dregs of dregs.

There is no pursuit of production. A piece of cloth is released after six months. No one knows the exact amount of production, because it is not possible to make a long day to eat the silk and make it rain. Too cold and overheating can not be done. It can only be carried out between March and November.

"Time is here, back several hundred years."

Liang said.

The silk is very beautiful.

Its front is black, full of faint luster, like black pottery.

The reverse is brown, with irregular texture, like Shang and Zhou Oracle fragments.

There is also a pleasant name called "silk gauze".

In the Guangdong provincial records of silk, it is said that when wearing the silk, when the clothes are walking, the clothes will rub and make rustling sound. Therefore, the glistening silk is also called "ringing cloud gauze", and later it will be homophonic and renamed "Xiangyun gauze".

It has anti-inflammatory, cool and beneficial effects on skin.

The hands of the workers are very smooth.

The silk is so wonderful that it all depends on the beauty of the buttercup.

"Dioscorea" is a traditional Chinese medicine, growing in the mountains.

Its fertility is very vigorous. It only needs to be scattered in barren fields, without fertilizing, and without careful care, it will thrive.

In ancient times, the people of South of the Five Ridges encountered bruising and bleeding, crushed the yolk and put it on the wound to stop bleeding.

South of the Five Ridges is humid and hot in summer. In the ancient days without mosquito repellent incense and bathing, people could put mosquitoes away at home.

As far back as the Ming Dynasty, the people of Guangdong began to extract the juice of Dioscorea, and disseminated cloth and leather.

There are two kinds of Dioscorea, one is white, the other is red.

In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, fishermen from south of the Five Ridges coastal areas made clothes with disseminated cloth.

The peak period of "Guangdong silk" was from 1922 to 1925. It was also the prosperity period of the silk in Xiqiao. There were thousands of silk weaving factories and more than 500 dried plants in the town of Lun Jiao, Nanhai county and Shunde county.

In the movie "the South China Sea tide" and "the Red Detachment of women", the old fishermen, Nan Ba Tian and Lao Si wore silk thread.

In 1930s, the Guangdong silk industry was severely damaged by the silk fabric.

At that time, the world economic crisis broke out, and the main silk countries in Europe and the United States tightened their foreign exchange expenditure. Instead of raw silk produced by their own production, the silk was never recovered until it was discovered by Liangzi in 1994.

In 1994, before the discovery of Liang Zi in the Canton silk, there was only one Tan plant in the whole country, the sunflower factory, and at least one of them existed.

The factory director is also named Liang. He has been an apprentice in the basil factory since he was a teenager. He is an apprentice in Shunde.

So far, 500 years ago, the Chinese traditional medicine has been maintained.

At that time, the factory business was slack, occasionally picking up some daily orders, doing business to stop and face bankruptcy.

At the same time, no young people are willing to work hand in hand under such a hot summer season, and it takes seven or eight years to train a basil worker.

Therefore, the production process of Canton silk is on the verge of extinction.

She graduated from northwest textile and garment college in 1990 and has been looking for fabrics that are suitable for her own design.

Liang does not like chemical fiber, "although chemical fiber is crisp, it does not need ironing after washing, which is consistent with the aesthetics of that era, but it is very stuffy and uncomfortable."

In the university days, Liang used the design of cotton and linen. "After burning the chemical fiber fabric, it shrunk into a bunch of hard black gelatinous bodies. It smells so bad that it will not degrade into nature."

I didn't mention environmental protection at that time.

I like the rustic feeling of cotton and linen.

After graduation, Liang Zi and her husband Huang Zhiping started their own business in Guangdong, and founded their own fashion brand, TANGY, in 1994.

"In front of us, Chinese fashion brands have almost nothing to learn from. There are a lot of things that we need to find out for ourselves."

Liang Zixian used silk and cotton and linen later. "At that time, many people did not accept cotton linen. They felt that the white hemp was easy to wrinkle, not easy to handle, and not smooth."

In 1994, a friend introduced Liangzi to a discarded warehouse.

She rejoiced in the unique taste of the fabric and buried her face in the silk. "This taste is very comfortable," and Liang Zi was really moved by the silk. After the first time she saw "crossing the river mud", the feeling of ritual was very shocking, and it felt like being protected by the great nature.

After finding the factory, Liang decided to use the silk cloth to design clothes.

This is a risky decision, because the processing technology of the silk is slow and complex, and the rate of defective products is high.

Because it is hand-made, every inch of cloth has different colors. Liang likes the brown side. She puts forward the idea of brown design, which is considered to be a whimsical idea.

Because during the production process, the positive river mud will permeate to the reverse side. After drying, the brown side has many black defects.

So the workers thought of a way, after finishing the river mud, wipe the back of the silk with wet cloth, so as to ensure that no river mud permeated to the opposite side.

During the time when we first started designing with glistening silk, no one knew that he had encountered many difficulties.

With her perseverance and perseverance, she made steady progress steadily. Until the 2001 China international clothing week, Liang broke out of the cocoon and won the first three top 10 top designers, academies and business ranks in China.

Today, Liang Zi has developed colorful buttercups and raw spun buttercups, and is still testing cotton, linen and wool to make them.

With the promotion of Liang Zi, the silk fabric has become a national intangible cultural heritage.

Liang Zichang came to the Basho factory, and stepped on the silk and walked slowly.

She likes barefoot. "Bare feet are very comfortable and relaxed. They are the most direct way to feel the nature."

At the launch of her own work, the models wore their designs of silk embroidery and walked barefoot on the T platform covered with reeds, making a rustling sound.

Liang Zi Zi Liang Zi likes nature and pays attention to environmental protection.

She does not need disposable paper cups, does not waste the leftover materials of the silk, and specially puts the office in the Sha Tau Kok of Shenzhen with mountains and sea.

He was born in a small town in Xinchang, Shaoxing, Zhejiang.

In order to save cloth, mother always makes the same clothes for her and her sister.

At that time, just like the sewing machine, Liang Zi always asked the tailor to put a pocket here and sew a lace on it.

When I was little, there was a loom at home, like Grandma Liang Zixue and mother, climbing up looms, spinning and weaving cotton.

Liang likes drawing, since childhood, she painted everywhere on the walls and floor of her family, and her parents did not punish her.

Father only said that painting cannot be eaten.

This sentence, Liang Zi remember very firmly.

When he graduated from high school, Liang did not like those uninteresting universities of mathematics and physics. He notified his parents and went home to work on their own initiative.

Her parents did not embarrass her. Her father sent her to the tailor's shop as an apprentice. Aunt spent more than 100 yuan to buy a sewing machine for her.

A few years later, Liang became a famous local tailor.

Even if the pattern is not played, draw it directly on the cloth.

She likes to make some changes when she comes to Liangzi.

Young girls especially like to find Liangzi to make clothes, and the clothes she designs soon become popular in small towns.

However, once Liang's clothes are popular, she will never wear them again.

After 6 years of high school graduation, Liang took part in the college entrance examination and was admitted to the Northwest Institute of textile design.

After graduating from college, Liang was not influenced by professional systems, and her design was completely invisible.

"Maybe I am too simple to study others. I prefer to feel intuitively.

You let me tell the style of a certain master, what his representative work is, and my impression seems to be between clear and vague.

Prada, Chanel, Dior, these big names I also appreciate, also bought, but will not chase their trend to do.

The 90% summer wear of Liang Liang Zi is his own design of the silk silk fashion.

"I just hope not."