The Survival Test Faced By Chinese Designers

Recently, two things have brought many feelings and thoughts. First, TaoBao A friend of a madman saw the new brand and ran to the Taobao shop with the same pictures. But he was very puzzled: Why did the overturned clothes look so ugly? Secondly, the students who set up a customized studio in Tianjin were very complacent in the phone, saying that the new design of their own fabric bought up 30% of the price, still in short supply.

It seems that on the surface, these two examples should be an excellent evidence for advocating original and opposing plagiarism. But in fact, the friends who buy Taobao clothes do not lack all kinds of limited edition of big brands, and there are many students who make customized products to find pictures from the Internet to provide customers with reference. So the two small things that come to mind are: how will Chinese fashion designers survive in the future?

The first case is similar to that of Sasa, another friend in Shenzhen design studio, who studied fashion design from overseas in the UK. As a new generation designer who has been trained in the higher education of domestic clothing and in western open fashion education and enterprise system, what worries us now is not the pressure from capital or business, but who can help her efficiently and efficiently transform her creative ideas into high quality fashion products in a few years.

At present, in China, with the differentiation of industries, quite a few will only draw villains. Designer They may also survive well, and they will not make proofing, tailoring and sewing themselves, let alone set up the technological process and pipeline layout. This is an indisputable fact. Because China is already a world-class garment producer, there is nothing that can not be done. However, as a big country of garment production for many years, the shortage of labor in enterprises reflects not only the transfer of talents arising from the adjustment of social economic structure, but also the embarrassment of the lack of a strong and mature garment industry worker to support the fashion creation. Perhaps today, we can say that fashion designers lack talent, lack of ideas and creativity, and lack of means to turn ideas into reality. In other words, future constraints on the expression of Chinese fashion designers' talents are not just creative ideas, unexpected promotion, high-end materials, shocking release, language barriers to foreign exchanges, etc., but rather a new generation of industrial workers who can support their thinking into products loyal to their profession, suitable for the production rhythm of modern brand products, and have strong learning and operation capabilities for new technology and equipment. This is a big problem.

Apart from plagiarism based on helplessness or unscrupulous debates, the quality of clothing products is very strong in terms of the quality of clothing products, which has been known in China International Fashion week for satisfying consumers' needs and drawing on the specious clothing presented by some designer of the new season products of several European brands. Not to mention the Taobao store that has been reproduced in a few hours after the big news conference in Paris or Milan. {page_break}

The second example is the so-called designer personal advanced customization studio, which is all over the north and south. Many designers are living in this form of work. This form is very hot in the industry just like 15 years ago, the "cooperation between teachers and enterprises" that has been popular throughout the country seems to be the truth of the time. A large number of free designers represented by Post-80's 90 fashion designers have become the new favorites of various fashion and mass media. Under continuous efforts of the public opinion guide and the designers who are well versed in the self speculation of interactive information environment, consumers, especially online consumers, have a high degree of recognition for these young designers. A group of such designers are called the contemporary strength of Chinese fashion design, and even the hope of the future to seek international discourse power and achievement masters. People are eagerly looking forward to their unexpected concept show, without paying attention to where the costumes will eventually go, and people are excited to talk about whom the designer has joined hands with, which carpet has been served, which activities have been attended, and will deliberately ignore the cheap materials and rough workmanship of the costumes. Few people know that in fact, those families who are rich enough to play with tickets only earn less than 200 thousand yuan a year.

Although more than 20 years before and after twenty-first Century, the lifestyle, living space, psychological appeal, information exchange and material use of human beings are far more than the sum of the past millennium. The social status, working style and working environment of fashion designers are closely related to the changes in social life. But will the future of Chinese fashion designers survive like this? They can represent the Chinese clothing industry and fashion force to seek international market. fashion The right to speak?

The proportion of young faces and unfamiliar brand names has increased year by year in designers including platforms such as China International Fashion Week and Shanghai fashion week. This is in line with the natural development law. Maybe more people believe that fashion designers are not designers, designers need to be respected, they need beauty and flowers, and they need to publicize their personalities before the media. This kind of value orientation influenced by Western designers is probably the fundamental driving force of the new generation designers who are active in fashion magazines.

Of course, there is a hat, no one will abandon it, that is, "the founder of fashion." The so-called popularity requires the direct proof of market value; the so-called creator is supposed to create something like a mythical figure from scratch. Though everyone hopes, this hat can not be worn by anyone. Miao Hongbing, a famous entrepreneur in China, once said, "the market is a very important criterion for testing designer's performance. Many designers are very dazzling and dazzling in the flash and T stage, but I think you should also ask yourself, who is your place in the market and who knows you in the market? "Designers who only provide one or two gowns to the stars only a year, but the designers with a turnover of only 200 thousand Yuan say that they create popularity? Can they afford the future of Chinese fashion? {page_break}

It is undeniable that in the new generation of designers, there is no doubt that talented people are also recognized by the market. Especially in this era of unprecedented personality consumption, apart from all kinds of clothing brands that are dominated by the market, designer brands have also been highly recognized. The emergence of a large number of designer brand stores, as well as the support of various professional platforms, including the 10+3Showroom set up by China Fashion Week this year, is the cornerstone of these designers' success. But no one can be sure that the main body of the future market is designer brand, and they will be able to get the right to speak in fashion.

At the fashion forum of Wuhan fashion week, which was just held soon, Professor Xiao Wenling of Tsinghua Academy of fine arts put forward the view that the characteristics of the upstream of the international fashion system are new ideas, new concepts, new technologies, the right to speak and the right to propagate, and the lower reaches of the international fashion system only provide resources, production and market. The development of Chinese clothing for more than 30 years has always regarded the reality of the West as its ideal, and has continuously copied and made it into the world factory. However, it has no voice, right of communication and international brand support in the international fashion field. China's fashion system is applied, applying Western research results, and realizing the international fashion discourse power needs to enter the real meaning of independent innovation.

How to achieve the real meaning of independent innovation? Or we need to first establish a fashion ecosystem based on China's economic culture. Modern design, including the standard of dress design, was established by Westerners. The direction we are following now is the history and the present of the western fashion industry. Although the international exchange is unprecedented, due to cultural differences, as a western scholar cautioned, European society is not what you see. At this point, the designer Zhang Zhaoda, who has been trying to solve the problem of how Chinese fashion design context is built around the international fashion context for many years, may have deeper feelings.

From the perspective of the development of human civilization, only the state. comprehensive national strength Including political, economic and cultural levels, it is possible to get the right to speak in specific areas. That is to say, fashion discourse power is a derivative of strength. It can be predicted that when Chinese fashion designers come into a diversified market through international channels with the strong use of international materials, design languages and production techniques, the internationalization and discourse power of Chinese fashion will naturally come. This vision seems to have seen the dawn of today's industry.

With the development of modern fashion history, only ten people in the world can remain anonymous. They are called masters. Oscar de la Renta, an American fashion designer, said: "the designers of the past were just tailors -- they could only make clothes and sell clothes. Today, we sell lifestyle to the world, our influence is bigger and bigger, and others' views on us have also changed greatly. This industry is recognized by more society. I think all social structure finally depends on rights and influence, and of course, the rights and influence brought by money. He should evaluate the contemporary fashion design field, and hope that his viewpoint will not represent the survival of Chinese fashion designers in the future.