Standard Analysis Of Adhesion Of Leather, Shoes And Hats And Shirts
< p > < strong > the first section is classified according to usage < /strong > < /p >.
< p > 1, shirt lined lining: requires water washable, shrinkage rate is small, stiff and elastic.
The bottom cloth is woven with PE or PET adhesive.
< /p >
< p > 2, coat adhesive lining: requires dry cleaning and washing, soft and elastic.
The bottom cloth can be woven, knitted, nonwoven, with PA, PET or PVC adhesive.
< /p >
< p > 3, leather lining: requires low press temperature, soft handle and poor washability.
The bottom cloth is woven or heavy woven with EVA or PA adhesive.
< /p >
< p > 4, shoes and hats and decorative fusible liners: low pressing temperature, low price and poor washability.
The base cloth can be EVA, PE or PVC adhesive with nonwoven fabrics, woven fabrics or foam plastics.
< /p >
< p > < strong > second the choice of adhesive lining is < /strong > < /p >.
< p > 1, determine the performance of adhesive lining factors < /p >
< p > adhesive lining is coated with various adhesives on various fabrics, non-woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, so its properties are determined by three factors, namely, base cloth, adhesive and coating method.
< /p >
< p > (1) Kib (bottom cloth): < /p >
< p > can be divided into three categories, the proportion is as follows: woven fabric 30%, knitted fabric 10%, nonwoven 60%.
< /p >
< p > 1, woven fabric: raw materials: domestic: mainly cotton, a small amount of polyester / cotton blended fabric; foreign: Viscose / polyester fabric; features: high strength, stable size, washable; use: shirt lining, outer lining, fur lining < /p >
< p > 2, knitted fabric: raw material: warp: synthetic filament yarn (polyester staple); weft: viscose or cotton fiber; features: weft insertion warp knitted fabric: good dimensional stability, good drape, soft and good handle; use: lining weft warp knitted fabric lining; warp knitted silk and knitted coat < /p >
< p > 3, non-woven fabric: raw material: polyester or viscose blended fiber < /p >
< p > characteristics: formerly, it had poor hand feel and washability, high shrinkage of hot water, and a large number of underlay for leather, decoration, shoes and hats.
< /p >
< p > newly developed non-woven fabrics in recent years: soft handle, good thermal stability, high strength, good washing resistance, and can be used for high-grade garment lining.
< /p >
< p > (two) adhesive: it can affect the adhesive strength and adhesion temperature of the adhesive lining.
< /p >
< p > (three) depth of adhesives: see the preceding classification.
< /p >
< p > {page_break} < /p >
< p > two, selection principle of adhesive lining < /p >
< p > 1, lining and fabric can reach a certain peel strength after being bonded. During the period of use, it does not degum and does not blister after washing.
< /p >
< p > 2, lining shrinkage and hot shrinkage should be consistent with fabric, keeping the appearance of the garment flat, without wrinkling and not rolling.
< /p >
< p > 3, lining and fabric quality should be consistent: for example, the general outer lining should have soft handle, good elasticity, the lining of silk material should have good drapability, and the collar must be properly stiffened.
< /p >
< p > 4, good air permeability to ensure comfortable wearing.
< /p >
< p > 5, the adhesion temperature of lining should be consistent with fabric: if the lining of fur is used, the bonding temperature should be low.
< /p >
< p > 6, with good shearing and sewing properties; no blade will be stained when cutting, and no cut will be used to cut the edges of the linings.
< /p >
< p > < strong > third bonding equipment and process < /strong > < /p >
< p > 1. Bonding equipment < /p >
< p > bonding equipment must be able to control temperature, pressure and time when bonding.
At present, there are six kinds of bonding equipment in the world: < /p >
< p > 1, iron: suitable for single piece making and small material adhesion.
< /p >
< p > 2, flat bonding machine: depending on the two upper and lower working plates (one of which is heating plate) to compress.
< /p >
< p > 3, rotary continuous bonding machine: continuous feed, high production efficiency.
< /p >
< p > 4, high frequency bonding machine: it is a new type of bonding machine. It uses microwave radiation to make bonding process. It can carry out multilayer bonding at lower temperature (strong penetration), good handle and high production efficiency, and will not produce glue phenomenon.
< /p >
< p > 5, vacuum bonding machine: vacuum bonding.
< /p >
< p > 6, electrostatic bonding machine: electrostatic bonding.
< /p >
< p > except iron, other equipment is suitable for mass production.
< /p >
< p > {page_break} < /p >
< p > two, the main technological parameters of the bonding machine < /p >
< p > there are three main technological parameters -- temperature, pressure and time.
It mainly depends on the type and properties of hot melt adhesive on lining cloth, fabric and adhesive equipment.
The reference process parameters are provided by the interlining production plant.
The clothing factory should make the adhesion test on the selected fabric and lining cloth accordingly, and choose the best bonding process.
< /p >
< p > 1, temperature: the fabric is lined with the lining. The bonding temperature is related to the bonding time and pressure. The time and pressure must be fixed. If the temperature is too low, the adhesive will not be enough, the peel strength and the washing resistance will be reduced. If the temperature is too high, the fabric will become yellow and peel strength will be reduced.
Therefore, the bonding temperature should be determined according to the thermal properties of the adhesive and fabric.
2, pressure: pressure has three functions.
< /p >
< p > make the lining cloth close to the fabric to facilitate heat conduction.
< /p >
< p > the tangential stress of hot melt adhesive is given to reduce the melt viscosity of hot melt adhesive and facilitate the flow and penetration of hot melt adhesive.
< /p >
P > (3) reduces the gap between the hot melt adhesive and the fabric, so that the hot melt adhesive can be embedded inside the fabric, and it also facilitates the mutual diffusion of the molecular chain segment of the hot melt adhesive and the molecular chain of the fiber, and can improve the bonding strength.
< /p >
< p > the adhesive pressure depends on the thermal fluidity of the hot melt adhesive.
Too little pressure will affect the peeling strength; excessive pressure will not only cause the phenomenon of material leakage, but also affect the fabric's feel and cause the aurora on the fabric surface.
The blanking pressure range of the adhesive interlining is as follows: < /p >
< p > shirt adhesive lining (PE glue) 2 ~ 3gkf/cm2 < /p >
< p > coat adhesive lining (PA, PET glue) 0.3 to 0.5kgf/cm2 < /p >
< p > fur adhesive lining (PA, EVA glue) 0.2 to 0.3kgf/cm2 < /p >
< p > {page_break} < /p >
< p > 3, bonding time < /p >
< p > the bonding process can be divided into three stages. The time required for each stage is T1, the actual bonding time T2 and the fixation time T3.
Since fixation is carried out after the pressure is removed, the bonding time is usually regarded as the sum of T1 and T2: t=t1+t2.
< /p >
< p > heating time T1 is related to the thickness and thermal conductivity of the fabric, and is also related to the heat pfer mode of the bonding machine.
Before the adhesion, the garment factory should test the heating time T1 of the selected fabric first. The actual bonding time T2 depends on the infiltration time and diffusion rate of the hot melt adhesive, and then the bonding time can be accurately determined.
< /p >
< p > prolonging the bonding time appropriately enables the hot melt adhesive to infiltrate the fabric sufficiently and diffuse into the fabric, which is conducive to the improvement of the peel strength.
However, too long bonding time will lead to leakage.
The bonding time of the adhesive interlining is as follows: < /p >
< p > shirt adhesive lining (PE glue) 15 ~ 15s < /p >
< p > coat adhesive lining (PA, PET glue) 12 to 20s < /p >
< p > fur adhesive lining (PA, EVA glue) 10 to 15s < /p >
< p > < /p >.
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