Send Chlo E To A New Height: Clare Waight-Keller
"I have decided that Chlo's latest ladies' dress should be different from those of the past.
Therefore, we need new interpretation and attitude.
Clare Waight-Keller said on the eve of the 2015 spring / summer fashion show.
The new statement, which has not yet been announced, is closely related to all the major changes in Richemont over the past 3 years. The fashion house in Paris has hired new CEO and new creative directors. They will join Chlo to create a world-renowned fashion giant.
Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye in 2010 from London shopping Department Liberty job hopping Chlo Chlo took over Ralph Toledano to become CEO, after he has served as some top management positions, such as Kronenbourg, PepsiCo, Disney and also.
The concept of Richemont is very simple: enterprise growth and profit.
I declined to comment on all kinds of companies.
The most important task now is to turn Chlo into a leading fashion shop in Paris.
Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye said.
This goal means that the whole company will be reorganized.
"My idea is: if Chlo is compared to a building with several floors, the group wants to build it into skyscrapers, but before that, you have to lay a solid foundation. This is my job."
This task is divided into three parts: first, to ensure every department in the brand, from the core creative team to the part-time retail salesperson, all the staff members of the company know the soul of the brand; second, make the communication between the teams more unimpeded; and third, increase profits.
For nine months, De La Bourdonnaye has appointed Clare Waight-Keller, the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, to replace Hannah McGibbon, the three year old creative director.
"When I made this decision, I thought so. First of all, I affirmed that Hannah McGibbon made a great contribution to Chlo.
People often say that the departure of Phoebe Philo in 2006 has frustrated retail sales, but you can see that the number is not reliable.
Even if someone leaves, the brand is still outstanding.
The development of Chlo Paulo was restricted by the arrival of Paulo Melim Anderson in 2000, which was at a critical juncture at that time.
It's Hannah that puts Chlo on the right track. "
The industry called her the camel girl for her excellent color.
"Hannah has a good view of Chlo AI's dress, but the new requirements for this position, such as high intensity work pressure, are too great for her."
De La Bourdonnaye said.
Clare Waight-Keller has worked in the two leading brands of Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren in the United States, and has served as a senior designer of Gucci and privately hired by Tom Ford, working with Christopher Bailey and Ford.
"Clare has a rich experience in working in an American company, so she will be good at communication.
She can integrate business and creativity with things like the United States and France, and usually these studios are only far away from the ivory tower.
This not only happens in Chlo, "explains De La Bourdonnaye, who is looking for a person who can divide into three roles: manager, brand builder and designer.
"Tom Ford was originally a brand builder.
He is well aware of the many difficulties involved.
About the design of Gucci women's wear, we talked many times - the definition of brand, the preferences of consumers and customers.
Even though it is a coat, we have discussed all of them.
Collocation brochures, advertisers - everything needs the same aesthetic and appearance.
All this is very rigorous.
This is the basic principle of my career. "
Waight-Keller aims to extract Chlo's brand connotation and turn it into something new: "Chlo E has a strong logo and a passionate customer.
We do not want to make major changes to the original idea, but we want to make innovations. "
She said.
When Gaby Aghion founded Chlo E in 1952, Paris was occupied by senior women's clothing stores: Balenciaga, Jacques Fath and Christian Dior.
Aghion sees business opportunities in the market.
Attitudes wrote in a preface to last year's speech on the birth of Chlo ye: "I woke up one day and I was thinking," I want to make a series of charming clothes and use the beautiful colors that women like. "
Since then, Chlo is different from other women's clothing brands in Paris.
"We are not the brands that make people scream, nor do they sell so much.
We are known for its delicacy and expertise.
We focus on everyday costumes rather than red carpet dresses.
Therefore, we have always adhered to that purpose. People often wear Chlo because they can express themselves freely.
De La Bourdonnaye said.
So the fashion house has this saying, "one day is Chlo girl, and the whole life is Chlo girl."
But if your clothes are not accepted by the majority of people, you will not be able to win fame in Paris.
It is not hard to find that this is a bold attempt to compare the past Chlo dress with the series released by Waight-Keller now.
"I am on the right track, and I want to introduce clothes that are consistent with the core of the brand to those who love Chlo, and at the same time push the brand forward, so there is a certain risk."
She said.
De La Bourdonnaye declined to disclose more, but said that "Clare has arrived, and the garment series has had an incredible development."
"I am honored to work with such a CEO who has given me enough support and adventures."
Waight-Keller said.
They are new people joining the brand at the same time.
"At the beginning of our work, we were very close.
We are all new in the first place and want to do something to push the brand to another level.
Both CEO and creative director are satisfied with the imminent implementation.
De La Bourdonnaye has been maintaining the operation of three key juncture in the development of new series: first, at the very beginning, when Waight-Keller developed the innovative idea - conception - cardboard, color, cloth, outline, and then intermediate steps, finally the finished garments arrived at the showcase.
"Obviously he gave me feedback," Waight-Keller said.
"He knows the brand as well as I do, and I am glad that someone can be a comparison.
He will point out his favorite part and what he does not understand.
He might say "very Chlo e" and then suggest that he can go in this direction.
But usually he has a unique view of color.
Although it was ultimately decided on me, I was more inclined to make sure that he would not be disgusted.
This is cooperation. "
De La Bourdonnaye recalls his respect for creativity from his 13 year experience in Disney.
"I learned to respect every creativity and the importance of telling stories there.
Their business model is simple: Hollywood makes films based on stories, characters and plots (here is fashion show), and then changes into puppets, furry animals, amazing parks, books, videos and music.
Without telling the story, nothing can be done.
Fashion is the same thing.
Many things are opposite.
Just like Waight-Kelle and De La Bourdonnaye discuss her creativity, De La Bourdonnaye will be considered from a commercial perspective.
This created the birth of Chlo See's deputy card, See by Chlo.
A year ago, Waight-Keller took the creative guidance work from other designers in a low-key way.
"Our plan is to enhance the connection between the main and subordinate lines of the brand. We decide that the style of the sub card is not divorced from the main style of the brand. We are facing the same women.
Compared with Chlo e, See by Chlo e shows its unusual liveliness.
These aesthetics are embodied by choosing different cloth, shorter and more fitting cutting, more patterns, jacquard and design.
For me, the same women still face.
It's just that some of us are richer.
We all yearn for Chlo. "
The ambition of the brand is passed.
See By Chlo e
It can be seen that its independent shop is set up in Japan (a total of 25).
Although the brand wants to expand through wholesale, there is no plan to develop new stores in Europe, nor does it have a fashion show plan.
"Even though See By Chlo is developing rapidly, we still want Chlo to keep it as it used to be.
Some boutiques will make their sub cards bigger than brands.
That's not our goal.
Chlo will retain its status. "
De La Bourdonnaye said.
Act as
Main line brand
Global expansion is the key.
"Over the past three years, we have focused on consolidating the established market.
A new CEO, a new creative director, is a big change for a brand, and there are many customers to deal with.
We want to first position the market and then develop it. "
Waight-Keller said.
But where is it?
"I didn't know Brazil responded so enthusiastically.
Internet, logistics and everything are very complicated.
I don't think it will suddenly explode.
It takes time. "
Waight-Keller said.
Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye also agrees: "many Brazilians buy Chlo, and they do so in many brand stores in Miami or in many Brazil and Paris.
So opening stores in Brazil or South Africa is not our main direction.
Asia is the first and foremost key, though
Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye
Recognition of brand influence has declined in China.
"This market has come down, but I believe it will soon develop."
Clare Waight-Keller is more careful about this: "everyone sees China's development opportunities. Now we will wait and see and think of another way."
As for the United States? "Great! The United States has unlimited business opportunities.
That's our important market. "
De La Bourdonnaye said.
"This is a country where you can make the corresponding impact right away if you use the right method."
Waight-
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