APEC Clothing For " Boudoir " Song Brook Opened A Door.

Here world clothing The Xiaobian of shoe and hat net is to introduce the main features of the Chinese style clothing of APEC conference leaders: Song Jin's "boudoir".

Song brocade has a long history. Because of its gorgeous color, delicate design and firm texture, it is called "the crown of embroidery" in China. Because its producing area is mainly in Suzhou, it is also known as "Suzhou song brocade". Song brocade, together with Nanjing Yun Brocade and Sichuan Shu brocade, is known as the three famous brocade in China.

In 2006, song brocade was included in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage list. In September 2009, song brocade was listed in the world's list of intangible cultural heritage.

Beijing APEC has been successfully concluded. As one of the highlights, Chinese and Western costumes worn by leaders and representatives of various economies have attracted wide attention. Song brocade, the main fabric of male leaders, has also stepped onto the international stage, attracting worldwide attention.

Selected APEC

Song brocade opens a door

As a world intangible cultural heritage raised by boudoir, APEC opened a door for song brocade.

According to media reports, the leader's clothing design scheme has been started since late December 2013, and the organizers sent out design invitations to 71 enterprises, 259 designers and 18 universities. From February to September this year, after several rounds of deliberation and review, the expert evaluation team selected 35 samples of clothing from 455 design proposals for further design. As at the end of October, leaders' clothing production and packaging work were completed according to the plan.

In such a strict selection, why can the song brocade stand out and become the main fabric of the Chinese style clothing?

Chu Yan, a designer of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology who participated in the APEC conference costume design, said in an interview with the media that according to the requirements of Beijing APEC conference, the fabric must have traditional Chinese elements. "We chose in the three famous brocade of China, and finally selected song brocade. Because the wear resistance and smoothness of song brocade are very good, and at the same time, it has the characteristics of matte, but it is not dazzling, expensive and not obvious. It is very consistent with the low profile and restrained demands.

"The fabric provided for the leader's clothing has been innovating." Wu Jianhua, chairman of Beijing APEC conference male leader clothing material provider and Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., said that in order to meet the leader's requirements for fabric, they changed the weft of the song brocade into wool, and the silk thread was still made of pure silk. "Silk plus wool not only increases the crease resistance of fabrics, but also greatly reduces the cost."

"Air temperature is also an important factor." Lei Limin, vice president of the China Textile Business Association, thinks that because of the high density of song brocade, it can be made very thin and can be made very thick, so that the clothes made by song brocade are suitable for all kinds of weather.

"The crown of beauty"

Later on, Jin will be called song.

Compared with Han brocade and Tang brocade, song brocade has made great breakthroughs and innovations in its organizational structure and artistic style. It is known as the second milestone of Chinese brocade, and has important historical, technological, cultural and artistic values.

The patterns of song brocade are mainly geometric patterns. The most distinctive feature is made up of geometric grids, such as tortoiseshell, four haloes, six haloes, eight haloes, Tianhua patterns, square chess lattices, and so on. Its shape is complex and changeable, its composition is exquisite and beautiful, and its color is simple and elegant. It contrasts with Tang brocade's elegance and elegance.

According to its structure, process precision, material quality, fabric thickness and use performance, Song Jinfen is 4 categories of heavy brocade, fine brocade, box brocade and brocade. The material of heavy brocade or fine brocade is a widely used variety of Song Jinzhong's function. It can be used for painting and calligraphy mounting, scroll mounting, curtain, quilt, cushion and clothing.

The production process of song brocade is rather complicated. The main feature is the simultaneous flowering of longitude and latitude. In weaving, we usually use "three twill weaves", two by three weft, and the warp threads are used as the bottom and surface. The bottom is made of colored silk and ground. Dyeing requires pure natural dyes to dye the silk according to the needs of the pattern, and then enter the weaving process. Dye selection is very strict. Most of them are dyed with grass and some mineral dyes are all made by hand dyeing.

In the Song Dynasty, especially after Song Gaozong's South crossing, in order to meet the needs of court costumes and calligraphy and painting, Song Jin developed greatly and formed a unique style.

Successful Retro

Traditional skills have been reborn.

Due to innovation, Song Jin became another peak of Chinese silk weaving in Han Jin and Tang Kun, but also gradually declined because of being conservative and unable to adapt to the needs of the new era.

From fourteenth Century to nineteenth Century, Song Jin was the most prosperous period. After the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Song Jin was known as "archaize Song Jin" or "Song Shijin", collectively referred to as "Song Jin". In the early twentieth Century, due to the impact of western modern industries and years of war, traditional song brocade declined and production techniques were almost lost. On the eve of the founding of new China, the song brocade industry was on the verge of extinction, with only 12 looms left. Many brocade workers had to change their lives.

After the founding of new China, the song brocade production cooperative was established in Suzhou, so that the song brocade in Suzhou was restored and developed. After 1986, the yield of song brocade has been restored, but its output is not large. Before and after 1990, the market changed dramatically. The brocade factory gradually fell into a difficult situation in the reform of the enterprise system, and its economic efficiency decreased and it was difficult to maintain.

Since 1990s, due to the fierce competition in the domestic market, the cost of enterprises has increased and output has been decreasing. The Suzhou Brocade Factory, which mainly produces song brocade, first transferred to other products, and then the enterprise was shut down. The business went bankrupt in 2004. Technical files and data were lost, and technicians were over seventy years old. Some of them were in poor health, some even late. The two remaining artists were more than 90 years old, and the traditional song brocade was on the verge of extinction.

Suzhou has been trying to salvage the traditional skills that are on the verge of extinction. In June 5, 2007, the Ministry of culture confirmed that Qian Xiaoping, a representative of the cultural heritage project in Suzhou, Jiangsu, was included in the list of the first batch of 226 representative successors of the national intangible cultural heritage project.

In October 2014, Qian Xiaoping, a national successor of song brocade weaving technique, took the lead in tackling key problems and successfully copied the axis of the Western Paradise in 6 years. It is understood that the original song brocade "Western Paradise" axis by the Suzhou weaving Bureau, according to the palace painter Ding Guanpeng's blueprint for the blueprint, was then unique, is the Emperor Qianlong emperor's mother's gift, over the past 300 years has been sealed in the the Imperial Palace Museum, secret, is the the Imperial Palace museum's treasure.

Fashion integration

Walking into common people's homes

2009, Wujiang's prosperity silk The limited company has invested in a century old Suzhou silk factory, and has established a strategic partnership with the Suzhou Silk Museum, the Suzhou archives and Soochow University. Qian Xiaoping has been hired as a research and development consultant of Song Jin company. The company has instruct the R & D personnel to analyze and study the samples provided by the company, and has successfully copied a number of valuable cultural relics.

"To let the song brocade shine brilliance, we must let it enter the life of modern people, and to achieve this goal, we need to innovate." Wu Jianhua, chairman of Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., Ltd.

Because of its low yield, and Song Jin used to be used for mounting and other purposes, people know little about it. "The traditional song brocade is woven by hand, and a person weaving at most 6 meters per month." Wu Jianhua said.

In March 2012, Wujiang Dingsheng company successfully developed a modern loom that can be woven in accordance with the traditional brocade technology. It has independent intellectual property rights. This invention broadens the width and flower width, and expands the application field of song brocade.

At present, the use of song brocade has been very extensive. Bags, home textiles, scarves, shawls, neckties, pajamas and other products can be made. According to Wu Jianhua, Song Jin also gave many foreign gifts to the foreign dignitaries.

"We can not protect the intangible heritage from a simple recovery. We should also create something that consumers like and conform to. fashion The product of the tide. " Wu Jianhua said that the exhibition during the APEC conference brought song brocade to the world and created better opportunities for the industrialization of song brocade.