Historical Development: The Streets Are Hard To Find Traditional Costumes Of Li Nationality.

Li nationality's clothing art has a long history and unique style.

Four major processes, weaving, dyeing and embroidery, have made great contributions to the development of Chinese cotton spinning technology.

In the 80s of last century, the protection and inheritance of Li costumes were on the right track. After entering twenty-first Century, the protection, inheritance and development of the costumes of Li nationality entered a period of benign development.

In 2006, Li nationality's traditional textile and weaving and embroidery techniques were included in the national list of intangible cultural heritage protection. In 2009, they were listed as UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage.

In 2008, the costumes of Li nationality were selected for the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list.

In 2012, the group of experts also conducted many field surveys and visited hundreds of Li nationality costumes and crafts successors.

It was officially published.

Li nationality is a nation with a long dress culture.

Wang Rumin, the former director of Hainan Institute of nationalities, believes that during the long historical development, the Li people created and accumulated a unique culture of Li costumes with their own wisdom and wisdom.

According to experts' investigation, the history of the development of the costumes of Li nationality can be traced back to the Shang and Zhou dynasties in China. It has a history of more than 3000 years. Among them, there are tree fur coats known as "living fossil of human", with large earrings with ears and ears, and more than a thousand years of Li nationality skirt, and their rich and colorful clothing patterns with profound cultural connotation.

Li nationality's costume making skills are unique, and the skills of one-sided weaving, double faced weaving and double sided embroidery are most representative.

Since the inheritance of Li costumes and its production techniques, its historical research value, cultural value, artistic value and tourism development value have become increasingly prominent. It has become one of the outstanding representatives of Hainan's local culture, and also a wonderful flower in the treasure house of Chinese national costume culture.

"Since 2009, our institute has sent experts to Sanya, Dongfang, Baoting, Baisha and other cities and counties to carry out the census of traditional costumes and collection in kind. Altogether more than 100 pieces of traditional costumes have been collected from the five li dialects of Li nationality."

Wang Rumin told reporters that in 2012, the group of experts has repeatedly focused on the field investigation, visited hundreds of Li costumes and crafts successors, based on a large number of interviews and physical data, not long ago, the Provincial Institute of nationalities organized and published a monograph "Li costumes".

Under the great impact of modern foreign culture, people's awareness and awareness of the protection and inheritance of Li costumes are fading away. Nowadays, most of the Li nationality areas, whether they are cadres, workers, peasants or students, have been dressed in Han costumes in daily life, and the practical social functions of Li costumes are being weakened.

Walking on the streets of Five Fingers Group and Baoting, it is hard to find the trace of Li nationality's clothing. Occasionally, several elderly people are still wearing the costumes of Li Nationality in the countryside.

"I haven't worn the clothes of Li nationality since I was young, I haven't even married, and there is no Li nationality clothing at home."

Huang Yingmei, a 40 year old Baoting Li nationality Miao Autonomous County, who is a villager in the town of Mao Jie village, Li village, said that villagers seldom wear Li costumes. Unless it is a major holiday, some people will wear them out to dance, and a small number of villagers will wear them when they are married.

Moreover, Li nationality clothing is exquisitely made, and some clothes are also covered with mica pieces, which are easy to be damaged at ordinary times, and usually cannot be worn.

Chen Houzhi, a Li nationality villager in the South Mao branch of Jin Jiang farm in Baoting, said that the dress of Li men was very simple. Now they are basically Han Chinese. Only some Li women retain some Li nationality costumes, but they seldom wear them at ordinary times.

He believes that the endangered situation of the costumes of Li nationality is due to both social and natural causes.

After the reform and opening up, with the development of the market economy, people of all shapes and styles are flooded with the market. People can buy freely, and the young people pursue fashion and basically do not wear traditional national costume.

At present, the clothing of Li nationality men is almost completely modernized. The Li nationality women in the villages with convenient pportation rarely wear ethnic costumes and wear them only on traditional festivals and weddings and funerals.

According to the survey, in addition to the annual "March three" festival, the Li nationality people are dressed in colorful traditional costumes to participate in the performance. At present, people seldom wear clothes in the Five Fingers Group.

For the whole of Hainan, there are only Baisha Li ethnic minority dialects, Changjiang and Dongfang, and a few old Li nationality women and some ethnic group tourist attractions.

The Li Brocade and the Li nationality dress

Skills passed down.

Liu Xianglan, a villager of the village committee of the village of Five Fingers Group in the town of Tong Shi, is a national successor of the Li nationality's traditional textile dyeing and embroidery techniques.

"When I was 13 years old, I began to learn Li nationality costume production with my mother. Now I am familiar with Li, Qi, dialect, spinning, dyeing, weaving and embroidery skills."

Liu Xianglan told reporters that she planted cotton, dyestuff plants and other Li costumes production materials, usually free to school students Li brocade skills class.

As a successor to the traditional Li textile weaving and embroidery techniques, Liu Xianglan attaches great importance to the protection and development of Li costumes, learning some new pattern weaving, and trying to wear Li costumes as often as possible.

Liu Xianglan told reporters that when she married, she married the Li nationality wedding dress, and now she still has it.

With the development and change of the times, most of the Li youth get married and wear wedding dresses. Occasionally, some people will hold the traditional wedding ceremony of Li nationality. "My son will get married in a few days. It will be arranged according to Li nationality's traditional wedding ceremony."

"When I take part in a performance or give students training, I will wear Li costumes, but these stage costumes are still improved after they retain some Li costumes, with brighter colors."

Huang Zhaoan, a successor to the bamboo and wood instrumental music of Li nationality, told reporters that when he went to the countryside a few years ago, he found that Li nationality villages rarely wear Li costumes. He wrote letters to the leaders of Baoting County on this occasion, and received support from the leaders concerned. In the annual Baoting Festival, the county leaders took the lead in wearing Li costumes.

Huang Zhaoan said that he personally experienced the "Cultural Revolution" period. Li Jin and Li nationality costumes were "four old". They not only banned production and wearing Li costumes, but also confiscated Li Brocade and skirt in some places.

"At that time, the beautiful Li brocade, the skirt and the hat were confiscated and burned. It's really a pity."

Huang Zhaoan said that this caused Li Jinmeng an unprecedented disaster and the traditional costumes culture of Li nationality was severely damaged.

Gao and Xi, deputy director general of the Institute of ethnic studies, said that with the acceleration of industrialization, machine spinning has increasingly replaced traditional hand spinning lines. Chemical dyes have increasingly replaced natural dyes. Li brocade has long production time, high technical requirements and large cost inputs, and it is difficult to compete with modern industrial textiles. People also buy modern industrial textiles on the market, and the whole hand weaving is completely replaced by machine weaving.

At the same time, along with entering the information age, the aesthetic values and values of the Li people have changed, and the traditional culture of Li minority has moved from closed to development.

Under the influence of the new way of life, the Li nationality teenagers are no longer wearing the traditional costumes of Li nationality anymore.

Li Costumes:

Improvement has vitality.

In the early 80s of last century, the Hainan people's Government of Li and Miao Autonomous Prefecture put the protection and inheritance of the traditional costumes of Li nationality on the working schedule, and appropriated funds for selecting the young and middle-aged Li nationality women who knew the textile technology to inherit the national skills.

Through this practical activity, we found a group of skilled old artists. Some ancient Li costumes were excavated and inherited.

After the establishment of the Special Economic Zone in Hainan, the protection and inheritance of Li Brocade and the costumes of Li nationality were further strengthened. In the cities and counties of various ethnic groups, Li brocade Technical Institute was set up to identify the successors.

Carrying out the folk inheritance of Li brocade skills and Li costumes skills has injected new vitality into the protection and inheritance of Li nationality brocade and Li costumes.

According to the protection, inheritance and industrialization of Li brocade, and the market demand of plant dyestuffs, in 2011, the National Institute of nationalities launched the project of protecting the production base of the costumes of Li nationality. They planted Li nationality traditional costumes and made plant raw materials at the base, and increased the protection and development of Five Fingers Group brocade dye.

In Five Fingers Group, there are companies improving and innovating the costumes of Li nationality and bringing Li brocade to the market.

Recently, the reporter saw in the Li Yuan brocade company of Li Yuan that there are many kinds of costumes of Li nationality, which are very suitable for large and medium-sized hotels, hotels and shopping malls. Some of them can also be used as casual clothes for shopping. It is a very beautiful national costume scenery in modern society.

In Five Fingers Group and other hotels, we can see the waitresses wearing Li skirts and wearing the hat of Li nationality.

"Li costumes must be improved before they have vitality."

Chen Jian, director of tourism development in Five Fingers Group, said that they had designed and made a batch of costumes with Li nationality characteristics, which can be worn at work.

"This year, the Tourism Bureau also produced 6 million yuan tourism development fund, rewarded some restaurants, hotels and scenic spots, and asked them to pay attention to the protection and development of ethnic elements, and suggested that they should provide ethnic costumes for their employees."