Women'S Dress Matching Scale In Tang Dynasty Was Wide Open.

The drama of "Wu Mei Niang legend" is hot. The dress of the woman's "breasted breast" has aroused controversy.

Fan Bingbing's "the legend of Wu Mei Niang" is spreading hot, while the women in the film are wearing "

"Costumes sparked controversy among the public.

How did women dress in Tang Dynasty? Is it really so open?

An ancient costume researcher told the Morning Post reporter: "the women's wear in Tang Dynasty is basically three sets: skirts, shirts and dresses.

But the clothes of the protagonist in Wu Mei Niang's drama have nothing to do with the Tang Dynasty. Only the dress of the maid and so on, some of the shadow of Tang Dynasty costumes.

In addition, the costumes in the early Tang Dynasty were more compact, and the image was also thin and thin.

In the Tang Dynasty, the three pieces of "women's skirts, shirts and dresses" were tested. In many Tang Dynasty history and novels, there were records of women's costumes in the Tang Dynasty.

In the book of metaphysics of the cattle monks and children of the Tang Dynasty, the clothes of a civilian woman were recorded.

In the Tang Dynasty, "Xu Lao" said that the wife of the Yizhou scholar Cao Liu in Tang Dynasty, "Huang Luo silver mud skirt, five halo Luo silver mud sweater, monofilament red land silver mud, cover Yi Du Fu".

Sun Ji, an archaeologist, wrote in the text of women's clothing and makeup in Tang Dynasty, "skirts, blouses and hare are the three elements of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. No matter the status or dignity, the basic three elements are indispensable."

"Shirt" is a long sleeved jacket worn by women in the Tang Dynasty, with a narrow sleeves and short body.

In the literature of the Tang Dynasty, every mention of everyday women's clothing is often called "shirt" and "shirt", such as "Lotus skirt, willow flower skirt", "red shirt narrow wrapped small arm", "fragrant shirt narrow sleeve cutting" and so on.

In the Tang Dynasty warehouse account book unearthed in the 206 Tomb of Ashtar, Turpan, Xinjiang, a large number of ordinary people's pawnshop rankings were registered, including women's clothes, almost all of them.

The shirt usually refers to a single garment. In winter, it is changed to a jacket, also known as "jacket shirt".

In addition, in the early Tang Dynasty, the sleeves of the sleeves were narrow, and the poems were often described as "red shirts and narrow arms," and so on.

The collar of the shirt is varied. According to the pottery figurines, murals and other cultural relics, there are many forms such as straight collar, cross collar, round neck collar, round neck lapel and so on.

It is worth noticing that the standing breasts and half necklines in the TV play were not opened in the early Tang Dynasty.

Before and after the opening of Yuan Zhou, the neckline of the shirt was lower and there were some pictures of "light red shirt to cover up the breasts".

In addition, such costumes are usually worn on specific occasions, such as in court or boudoir.

The upper body wears "shirt" and the lower part wears "skirt".

In the early Tang Dynasty, women in the Sui Dynasty wore long skirts, and their skirts were waist high, even above their armpits. They looked very long skirts.

According to Mr. Sun Ji, because of the narrow breadth of ancient cloth and silk, several pieces of cloth and silk should be used to stitch the skirt together.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was usually made of six pieces of cloth and silk. In the new book of Tang Dynasty, Tang Wenzong had asked for "five skirts of women's skirts" under the premise of advocating frugality.

Some expensive skirts range from seven to eight.

According to the records of the width and width of the cloth in the old Tang Dynasty book of food, each piece of cloth is about 0.53 meters wide, and the five skirts that Wen Zong advocated is about 2.65 meters wide.

Most women in Tang Dynasty love colorful skirts. In the literature, red skirts are often called "stone skirts".

For example, "Kaiyuan Tianbao incident" said that when the Changan ladies visited spring, they used "red skirts to hang and hang up to hang banquet".

Many of the poets' poems also reflect this preference, such as Bai Juyi's "pomegranate flower dyed dance skirt" and Tang Dynasty man Chu in the May prostitute.

Besides skirts and shirts, women in the Tang Dynasty wore "dresses".

In the Tang Dynasty, a long scarf was also called "silk" or "Zi Zi". It was made of light gauze and Luo, wrapped around the shoulders and twisted around the arms.

Silk and silk are often painted with decorative patterns or painted with gold, silver and silver. They are very beautiful. In the novels of the Tang Dynasty, there are always records of "gorgeous clothes", "Purple Silver mud, Luo Zi Zi" and so on.

In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the decoration of Zi Zi is more and more magnificent. Besides printing and gold, there are many decorative techniques, such as embroidery, coloring, valleye and halo.

There are also more heavy clippings. In late Tang Dynasty, the "ritual towel" and "shawl towel" were also equivalent to "Zi Zi" clothing.

It is not the Han nationality's inherent clothing. Mr. Sun thinks that silk and silk are probably originated in Western Asia. Later, they were accepted by the Central Asian Buddhist art and spread to China in the East.

In addition to the above basic clothing, women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty often has a short sleeved jacket called "half arm".

Mr. Sun Ji textual research on "half arm" is also known as "

"It first appeared in the Three Kingdoms period and became popular in the Sui Dynasty. Men and women in the Tang Dynasty wore them. Relatively speaking, women wore more half arms, and half arms were usually made of fabrics of better quality.

On the frescoes of Princess Tang Yongtai's tomb, the Painted Ladies are the upper body with a half arm outside the shirt, and the female figurines unearthed above the middle Tang tombs often wear a half arm figure.

However, the half arms were more popular in women's clothing in the early Tang Dynasty, and the middle and late Tang Dynasty was significantly reduced.

This is because in the early Tang Dynasty, the women's jacket was narrow and suitable for half arms. After the middle Tang Dynasty, as the women's clothing became wider and wider, they gradually did not adapt to the half arms.

We can also see women's portraits in Tang Dynasty wearing large sleeves.

The Tang dynasty women's large sleeves were also known as "dresses". During the Han and Jin Dynasties, "short" was a short coat. In the Tang Dynasty, the "dress" had begun to develop in costumes.

In the literature of the Tang Dynasty, there were more "big sleeves" referring to the magnificent sleeves, such as the dress of the palace, the dress of the ladies, and so on.

The solemn dress of the people can also be used as "Jiao". In Bai Juyi's "twenty deep spring marriages", there are "Chunshen married women, purple row pheasants", so they call the wedding dress "Yi", and there is also a pheasant mark that symbolizes the dress.

However, apart from the characteristics of big sleeves, the style of the neckline and the way of wearing are not much different from that of the shirt.

"Tune the piano and sip the picture"

There are five people in the picture, three in the middle are in the palace, one is playing the piano on the stone, the other two are listening to the music.

On both sides of the waiter, a man carries a saucer, and a person holds a teacup.

The characters are quiet and dignified.

The combination of characters is upright, dense and varied.

The background is very simple. The artistic conception and mood of the picture are mainly manifested by the characterization of the characters and their appearance.

This picture depicts a group of seasons in spring and summer.

Gorgeous aristocratic women play in the garden and enjoy the leisurely life of flowers.

The six people in the picture are divided into three groups: the right one draws two people and the other plays the dog; the middle picture draws two people to the left side; and on the left side draws a lady standing in front of a flower tree, holding a catched butterfly in her right hand, looking sideways at the running dog and white crane, and greeting another lady in the distance.

The women in the picture are rich in body, full in cheeks and gorgeous in costumes, but the characters spend all their time in flowers, butterflies, dogs, and cranes. They really seem bored. This reflects the depressed mood of noble women in their leisure life.