How Chinese Elements Affect The International Fashion World

The theme of this MET Gala is "China: beautiful and beautiful." therefore, Vogue US interviewed the designer, John Galliano, who often draws Chinese culture. Let's see through this interview what China looks like in his eyes.

Andrew Bolton: compared with other designers appearing in this catalogue and this exhibition, you have found one of the inspirational sources of China as your work. What made you interested in China at the very beginning?

John Galliano: I am fascinated by Chinese culture.

Now, in retrospect, the reason why I am so fascinated by Chinese culture is that I know little about it.

Before I visited China, the kind of Psychedelic dangerous and mysterious breath conveyed in Hollywood movies attracted me to understand.

After a long time, I passed a variety of studies - painting, literature, architecture and so on - to have a better understanding of real China.

My design is always based on in-depth research. I also like to make a scrapbook for every series, which is full of pictures and information I wanted at that time.

However, yes, my initial interest in China came from the romantic and fascinating pictures in the movie.

B: designers often observe China through films, and this is also one of the themes of this exhibition: China.

Hollywood movies in 30s and 40s, especially those that Huang Liushuang played, have always been one of the inspirational elements of Chinese elements for designers.

G: Huang Liushuang's image is a frequent object in my scrapbook.

Her charm and mystery are very powerful and attractive.

B: Huang Liu cream seems to be the inspiration for your 1993 spring summer series "Olivia the Filibuster".

There are several skirts in this series that are improved by cheongsam.

Some of the clothes with Panlong designs remind me of Huang Liushuang's skirt in Bruce, a lime house.

G: of course, she is one of the Inspirations of that series.

The material of the skirt is like licorice candy, which is very black and shiny.

Some skirts deliberately split near the buttocks, so when the girls are walking in skirts, the opening of the place will be closed and the body underneath the skirt is like blinking.

B: the first Gao Ding series you made for Dior (1997 spring and summer high) has two skirts inspired by China's export shawls, and a pink one is tan.

The pink one reminds me of the dresses worn by the Yellow Liu cream on a rare hand - colored photograph.

G: Yes, that picture is also a reference for my production.

I always liked the Chinese shawl, and I was fascinated by fine Tassels and unique embroidery.

Nicole Kidman wore the brown one on Oscar in 1997.

It was also the first time an actress wore such an important skirt to Oscar.

That tea look like a bold and brave statement of position.

B: you are like Andersen in the fashion world.

In the autumn and winter clothing series of Dior 1997, your hero seems to have returned to Shanghai in 30s.

G: the inspiration of that series comes from the Chinese posters and the Shanghai Calendar Girls in 30s.

I also found some beautiful posters of cigarettes, toilet water and other beauty products in advertisements.