A Silent Revival Movement Is Spreading In The Fashion World.

"The grace of Mr. Dior has been a source of inspiration for me."

Not long ago, just after showing the brand new Dior 2015 autumn and winter advanced customization series, Raf Simons, the current creative director of Dior, elaborated on her own design.

This time, the Musee Rodin is decorated with countless stained glass pieces into a modernistic church with point painting style. The models walk through this dream garden hand in hand with Raf's shawl and cloak jacket.

Such a picture can be said to be a subversion of the standard fashion model of the fashion industry.

Nowadays, models no longer seem so isolated. They no longer wear cold holes and walk across the T almost the same way.

Such subversion is constantly emerging in recent shows: in the GarethPugh2015 autumn and winter series.

The models were hand in hand; the models suddenly clustered together and stared at each other at the Comme des Gar ons show; in the window of DoverStreet Market of London's fashion concept store, the articulated model finger looked like calling a life from another world.

The operation of this market and comments on the show are going through the period of industrial change. The posture of the models in the show is showing us a new era of the T show mode, which will be a new movement of the dramatic style that once was the symbol of the fashion industry.

Early dramatic style

In 1950s, the model of the advanced custom show needs to go through the salon hall with a number plate. The number plate can help the people watching the show record every garment, but with the number card show, the posture of the models looks strange.

Over time, famous designers such as John Galliano, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto began to start their career in the fashion industry. Their appearance made the dramatic gestures and patterns of the models in the show gradually become an indispensable part of the fashion show: the inspiration of Galliano's debut was coming from a drama made by the national theatre which he had been involved in, and the design of Yamamoto was influenced by the costume of Pina Bausch. In the book "Rizzoli's," it is a "frivolous, sparkling, exaggerated and extravagant" era. "Body as the central theme of the stage", fashions and ordeals are pformed into dramatize and exaggerated world.

The impact of economic recession

In 1992, fashion designer AlexanderMcQueen, who entered the fashion circle, no doubt pushed the drama of fashion to another climax.

His enthusiasm for dramatization is reflected in the fact that he finished the production of a costume through the show (spray painting skirt on the spring and summer show in 1999), or simply frantically arranged the entire show to the dance of release (the MichaelClark dance show in the spring and summer show in 2004).

In 2008, the bankruptcy of Lehman brothers and the world financial crisis ensued. In that year, PhoebePhilo was appointed the creative director of C line.

The budget has shrunk dramatically, and even those brands that are relatively immune to the financial crisis are trying to avoid over luxurious designs.

Philo has a jealous and advanced aesthetic.

Her success in fashion design and finance is seen as a bright light for modern development.

As she was designing the first series for C line, "I just thought I should be right.

Do a thorough cleaning.

To create a strong and powerful style, a modern minimalism.

Philo C line has quickly become a new term for fashion: a mature, low-key elegance.

Soon, this style was imitated by other brands.

In fact,

The market has not been affected by this financial crisis, as JohannRupert, President of the group, said on CNBC last month: "rich people are often reluctant to show off their wealth.

If your child's best friend's parents are laid off, you certainly don't want to buy something like a new car.

Though compared with the luxury era created by AlexanderMcQueen and JohnGalliano, the show of every brand is indeed a radical change of tone, but a totally different kind of exaggeration has also emerged.

Journalists from all over the world sit on the luxury show that interprets the brand concept and wait for the dramatic style of the fashion circle to return.

Silent revival

From the 2015 autumn and winter series shows, there must be a revival movement being staged. Every show starts to abandon the monotonous and old-fashioned fashion show mode, and adopts a more unique way to interpret the brand concept.

In Max Mara

On the show ground, the models wore their generous clothes to give people a description of Nicole Phelps, which means "naked body is only wrapped in a towel that is not on the shoulder, or wrapped in the thick hand-made knitted cardigan of Grandpa, lying leisurely on the beach".

There is an ambiguous gender orientation and a vague sense of reality, which makes these clothes more connected with life and more vitality.

These models look like girls at any time in life, rather than unreachable supermodels.

Similarly, in Maison Margiela, the popular show of Galliano creates an enchanting "new standard of beauty" (recorded by show notes) - a woman who carries forward her personality and has a unique personal style but does not bow to her knees because of T and cat steps. Now she can put her hand in her pocket on the T stage or wear her clothes.

From the perspective of Margiela brand's minimalist perspective, this is crazy, but it means that Galliano will soon regain its old glory.