Loewe Creative Director Went To Tsinghua Academy Of Fine Arts And Said Designers Need Good Temper.
Stress often worries, think puzzle.
Handbag
The fire was unexpected and appreciated Edison Chan very much.
At two o'clock yesterday afternoon, in the lecture hall of the Tsinghua Academy of beauty, the Spanish brand LOEWE creative director Jonathan Anderson took less than two hours to meet the curiosity of the young Irish designer how to inherit the old brand LOEWE and run the two big brands smoothly.
In terms of business performance, Jonathan Anderson did a good job: from 2013 onwards, LOEWE sales increased nearly four years after two years, and the Puzzle handbag designed for LOEWE quickly surpassed the classic Amazona after its launch.
He is a bad student. He has read drama, wants to be an actor, and has been a window teacher in Prada, which is the burden of Anderson and LOEWE before LOEWE and J.W.Anderson.
In the evening of April 22nd, LOEWE officially opened the new store in Pop-up Store in Beijing SKP. As the core of LOEWE, Jonathan Anderson has publicly described the difference between its brand and LOEWE: "J.W.Anderson and LOEWE are two very different brands, the first is more social cohesion, and the second is the overlap of classicism."
Anderson also said that because he is responsible for two brands, he travels between Paris and London every day, dealing with 200 emails, opening 6 to 12 meetings.
Jonathan Anderson dialogue Zhang Yu
Zhang Yu: first question, how did you succeed as a young and successful designer?
JA: it's good to be clear about your responsibilities, but there's a lot of pressure and anxiety.
Zhang Yu: how do you balance so many designs, so many shows, and your own brand?
JA: there are a lot of wonderful people working together. We want to give you energy.
Zhang Yu: at that time, people in the industry felt suddenly, how did the two brands feel that they could do it?
JA: in fact, there is a process. The group had to stake its own brand, and had many discussions, and it was a secret at that time.
I know how to bring LOEWE brand to the present era.
I have my own ideas from design to logo, including the creativity of advertising, and the photographer who has finally been satisfied.
I put those pictures in and redesigned the advertising series.
Because LOEWE is a brand with past, present and future, so I would like to have such an expression.
After setting up the tone of the brand, I began to design clothes.
Men's clothing is the main form of inheritance, and there are some pleasant surprises.
LOEWE has always been a historical brand in Spain, and mainly in handbags.
After going to Madrid, I think there should be a change in the choice of materials. For example, it is impossible to use cortical materials in summer.
So I think it is the biggest breakthrough for LOEWE to join the spirit of Spanish enthusiasm rather than concrete material.
Zhang Yu: there are many shows now.
Men and women wear
Together, but this is what you did 5 years ago. What did you think?
JA: I think it was inspiring at the time. After all, I felt at first that selling clothes was casual selling because of the desire to design.
Some people say that if there are women's clothes, I have an idea, and I also want to know what clothes are worn on men and on women. So I begin to consider lines, shapes, and how to improve men's clothing to women.
Later, I made a show, which was a milestone in the moment. Even if I didn't feel it now, I think it is right now.
Zhang Yu: in recent years, the fashion industry has changed so fast, but no one knows how to follow it. What do you think?
JA: I think these are not bad things. They are revolutionary and need a whole new generation to accept.
Although in social media, you have a lot of contacts, but you don't really need to spend too much time thinking about it. I think everyone will eventually return to the communication between people.
Zhang Yu: I think young people would like to know, because you have their own brand at the same time, many young people want to do their own brand, but some people think that they can go to the big brands to exercise themselves first. What advice do you have for such young people?
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JA: I suggest that for those young people who want to create their own brand, you need to know why and why.
The environment is constantly changing. You are not just designing, but also understanding the market, shooting and so on.
Because the environment is constantly changing, you need to be clear about your thoughts all the time.
If your interest is only designed, it does not mean that you are suitable for your own brand because you need to know a lot.
And you need to be good tempered, and you can't get other brands. (laughter)
Zhang Yu: (explaining for Anderson) the designer is not only a designer, but also a chief conductor of orchestral orchestra.
It seems that I am no longer a traditional editor myself. My duties far exceed that of editors.
Including models, too, a model wants to be famous, but it is not enough to be beautiful, to understand lights, to take pictures and so on.
So as a designer, we need all kinds of abilities.
Audience questioning
Question: because you are also a judge of LVMH, how do you feel about this position?
JA: I am honored to be one of the judges. I am also pleased to meet so many excellent people.
You never get ready to meet anything. Maybe next time it will be a supermodel or anything else.
Zhang Yu (explanation added):JA came to LOEWE and started a fund to support some traditional handicrafts, mostly not fashion design, but more porcelain. He liked porcelain collection very much, including China. He was very interested in it and would go to Jingdezhen.
This idea is very good. This is an inheritance from the past to the present.
Question: How did the most popular puzzle bag come out and make it?
JA: This is a long story. Haha, it is not plain sailing.
When I was in office, I was under great pressure. When men's wear started on Monday, many people were not optimistic. The craftsman said that the bag was a difficult problem, so it was called puzzle bag.
Question: I know you studied drama in Washington, D.C., what made you later choose the career of designer?
JA: because I learned drama, I fell in love with stage costumes and walked into the fashion world.
Question: you have made a good balance between business and art. How did you do that?
JA: you will be more commercialized when you are your own brand, because you need money, and you need to consider the controversy between teams.
In fact, there are problems every day, so a team is very important.
Doing things is like this. Making friends is also like this. Where are your boundaries?
But there are no absolute answers to these two questions.
Question: what do you think is your attraction when you see Edison Chan on Instagram?
JA: I like real people. I think he is very interesting.
Of course, people have made mistakes in their growth process. I like people who do their things with great care.
Question: Recently, many designers have left. For example, my favorite Raf Simons is leaving. What do you think of this?
JA: because designers will see if they are suitable for themselves.
When you are in a very fond fashion house, you like to do what you do, and you will stay longer.
Of course, change means infinite possibilities.
Question: when designing, I am not very sure about my taste. How do you make sure that the design is popular?
JA: I think it's very complicated (sighing) to cultivate grade. Because taste is taste, sometimes it will turn bad and bad will become good.
Question: where do you get inspiration from creativity?
JA: maybe today's inspiration will be gained in Russia or we will see elsewhere.
There is no way to explain it. If you want to look for it, creative people will have natural curiosity.
Question: I am an independent designer, your individual.
Brand sales volume
How? If a customer asks you to cut down the process or fabric to reduce the price, will you agree?
JA: it's difficult to cut prices, because the brand has already taken a certain position in Europe, and the price of the brand is very reasonable now.
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