When Can A Dream Of High Order Fashion Be Awakened?

According to the world clothing and shoe net, Paris is now in the 2017 spring summer.

During this period, the major media took the trouble to popularize the real "advanced Haute Couture" for the public. For example, only a few brands in the world are truly recognized by the senior custom.

(in particular, compared with those who claim to be highly customized), the price of an advanced custom made daily dress is nearly six yuan RMB, and it takes more than a few hours for professional craftsmen to complete and 2000 remaining high order customers.

In short, compared with the absolute leading position in tailoring, profile and theme, modern (especially in recent years)

To the public, the impression is that beauty is far from being able to be seen, and it is not the existence that ordinary people can touch, but the statement about advanced ordering and losing money is endless. More often than not, it is regarded as a market tool for Chanel and Dior to build brand value for hundreds of years, as well as the glory proof of those brands that want to enter the fashion brand, just like getting a MBA certificate from a famous university.

For example, the brand Schiaparelli, which has been acquired and revived by Tod s chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle, has been re established as a full member of the Paris advanced custom Association (Chambre de commerce et d'industrie) after dozens of loads.

That is to say, this brand was created by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1930s, closed down in 1954, and its surrealist approach has influenced Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and other later brands. Finally, it was able to compete with the brand created by Coco Chanel of the same year.

Of course, this is just a joke, and now the two souls who have long been flown out of the smoke, even if the yellow chicken still quarrelling with the geese, I'm afraid no one has the ability to care about it.

But before this year's 2017 Paris spring and summer advanced fashion week, Versace, a guest brand, announced that it had cancelled the high fashion show and released it in a non-public static exhibition.

In response, Jonathan Akeroyd, chief executive of Versace, explained to reporters: "now we have to make 6 shows in a year. I feel that there are too many fashion shows. If there is a high definition show in two seasons a year, there will be 8 matches.

So, since we all know that the industry is changing now, why can't we make some new attempts? "

After cancelling this January and subsequent July show, Versace is preparing to launch its VIP activities targeting the main customers in cities including Hongkong and New York. It will focus more on those who live in Pyramid, and will focus on sponsoring the red carpet.

In fact, this is not the first time Versace cancelled high subscription show.

As early as 2004, the brand replaced Gao Ding fashion show in the same way until 2012.

At that time, the outside view was that Versace faced financial and operational adjustment.

But this does not mean that this advanced fashion week is lacking in attention. The first female fashion show after the Maria Grazia Chiuri, the current creative director of Dior women's wear, is the biggest topic, including the American version Vogue, the fashion business review BoF and the Dior official Instagram account. The video shows live on this great show. The domestic Tencent video has served as the designated live broadcast platform.

But compared to her predecessors, John Galliano and Raf Simons, her first show is a safety card. This comment from social media is not difficult to see, including the show set and new clothes, which are overwhelmed by such praise.

Indeed, compared with the legendary more than 2000 senior customers, even in the industry, for the senior ordering series, it is only the "common eating melon" of the Internet.

Is the evaluation of "beauty" or "immortal" not a high sense of dream created by foreigners, and the best result?

Cosmo, the current editor in chief, Joanna Coles, who had worked for Marie Claire magazine in 2007, had the opportunity to meet with the founder of Valentino and Valentino Garavani, who was also good at creating "beautiful fairy skirts". However, the other party's PR kindly reminded the editor of the social journalist that he did not mention anything about the Iraq war that was popular at that time. The reason was that Mr. Valentino did not know all about it.

Tian Jing, one of the guests of the Dior 2017 spring summer high show, said in her promotional video before the show that the Dior woman in her mind should be independent and confident.

No matter from which point of view, this is a "dream", but we can not expect the Dior brand of such a scale to be able to weave a dream today.

However, when this "beauty" and "Fairy" appear again and again, no accident can appear in the Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab and other brand show, can not help but remind people, how much longer can it be?

In particular, the real world is not so good at that time. More and more designers and brands are expressing their social and political attitudes in their works, and even the advanced garments are faced with the new high-end customization, which is fast fashion, the show buying mode, the early autumn and the holiday series. The beauty and immortality brought by the traditional advanced order make it look less exciting again.

This is not the first time that high order has been hit by the crisis. In 2002, with the retirement of Yves Saint Laurent, the fashion industry's comments on the death of advanced orders began in succession. But it did not die. At least to this day, business is still going on, and there are still a group of people who are obsessed with the Dior series of John Galliano era.

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But since the beginning of last season, a brand has broken a dream: as a guest brand, the Vetements of the 2017 autumn and winter series is released as a guest brand (so it can not be discussed with other brands) from the release season, the men's and women's clothing and the invitation status. With all kinds of characters as clues, there are no traditional slogans or gestures of political slogans, and the new clothes that are more untidy and unreasonable than ever before are undoubtedly nightmare on the high fashion week, but the dream makes people greedy, but nightmares can sober up.

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