Luxury Brands Have Moved To Paris, And New York Fashion Week Has Sung The Empty City.

According to the world clothing and shoe net reporter, with Tommy Hilfiger, Rachel Comey and Rebecca Minkoff moving to Losangeles, Hood by Air, Vera Wang, Air, and Comey have announced the change to new releases in Paris and the early release of rookie in early last month, which seems to indicate that the 2017 autumn winter New York fashion week is now in a predicament again.

U.S.A Fashion Designer Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the Association (CFDA), has different views on this. In an interview with reporters, he said, "this is not a performance of New York fashion week, but rather a shuffle. For different brands, different cities have different effects. I am not so worried about it. Maybe New York will become the center of the show, or there will be many new brands coming to New York in the future.

In 2001, IMG, one of the giants of the entertainment and sports industry in the United States, was established in 2013 by WME, an old performing arts agency of the United States. WME IMG was bought from the CFDA side and the role of New York fashion week was acquired. Then the role played by CFDA in New York fashion week was changed step by step.

Today, CFDA is mainly responsible. New York Fashion Week In the meantime, the time scheduling work of each brand's press conference ensures that its rookie time will not overlap each other and adjust according to the brand's popularity and past performance.

This is why the Kanye West's Yeezy Season 5 conference, which was unauthorized at holding time, made CFDA angry. As a result, after Kanye West learned the news, he said he did not do it on purpose, but did not know about it, and communicated with CFDA to adjust the rookie holding time.

As a non-profit organization, the reason why CFDA can take the role of the dispatcher and get income from it is that in 2014, the association got the title of "Fashion Calendar" (Fashion schedule).

In the past 70 years, the New York fashion week and even the big and small events and parties in New York have been successfully organized with the help of Fashion Calendar.

Fashion Calendar was invented by Ruth Finley at university. At a casual tea party meeting, she heard two fashion editors complaining about the frequent crashes in the fashion show, which led to Ruth's Finley attention. She began to plan the Fashion Calendar project and send it to the paid subscribers in the form of semi monthly printed matter, thus becoming a fashion commander in fashion in New York.

In October 1, 2014, CFDA formally completed the acquisition of ownership of Fashion Calendar, and announced the launch of the conference schedule in the 2015 autumn winter fashion week in New York. Ruth Finley served as Honorary Advisor.

CFDA then digitalized the Fashion Calendar and launched the app version. Last year, Fashion Calendar ushered in the comprehensive update of the website. The pink page inherited the characteristics of the paper version, and the adjusted website improved the guidance guide and user experience.

Nowadays, Fashion Calendar has launched a variety of paid subscription modes, the most important of which is the annual fee version of 395 yuan (RMB 2716 yuan) for individual users, and the annual fee version of 925 US dollars (6360 yuan) for enterprises. The two models provide detailed information on fashion shows and events held in New York within a year, mainly because of the difference in the number of users that can be shared.

For members of the CFDA Association Designer brand There will be a corresponding discount for the membership fee, and the version of other non profit organizations and school subscribers is scheduled to be launched in February this year. In addition, there is a cheaper version of the $195, which is suitable for users who want to get single quarterly information (such as 2017 spring and summer, 2017 early autumn, etc.).

But no matter what kind of subscription mode users want, if you want to issue related conferences and events information (Listing), you need to pay extra. In this regard, the official price is $50 (about 343 yuan) / single issue, while the unlimited release version will cost 995 dollars annually.

That is to say, by subscribing to Fashion Calendar to get information, and then pay to release their rookie and event information, and then get the official coordination and recognition of CFDA, instead of the so-called application procedures and application fees, it is also one of the sources of income for CFDA. For the New York fashion week's permanent brand, CFDA guarantees that it can host a new rookie at the time of the above season. Assuming that the other party needs to change, it will be coordinated by CFDA and other brands. For newly arrived brands, they are generally evaluated according to the creation time, calendar year performance and media exposure rate.

According to CFDA business director Mark Beckham, to the fashion industry media Glossy, there are about 1000 subscribers of stable Fashion Calendar subscribers currently, including brands, public relations companies, independent designers and other industries, and the customers are not limited to New York.

In addition to profitable operation to ensure the operation, CFDA also has another incentive to adjust the digitalization of Fashion Calendar and subscription subscription. In January 2015, Mercedes Benz, a long-term sponsor of New York fashion week, announced the end of the partnership. In the past, the unified show in Lincoln Center was also stopped, including Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta and other major brands, either because they had planned early or worried that the sponsorship of WME|IMG to attract costs would affect their image, and they had to evacuate the new official show, and choose their own locations to run the show, which led them not to be on the agenda of New York fashion week.

As a participant in the official schedule of New York men's wear week, Li Haoran, one of the founders and designers of Private Policy, told the interface news that they started from the 2017 spring summer series, that is, the second quarter of the brand creation, and became the subscription subscribers of Fashion Calendar, because the Virgin series published before is basically a trial mentality, and they do not know much about the knowledge of running shows.

He also revealed that after the general payment is released, CFDA will not intervene too much if it is not an accident. It is usually coordinated by the public relations personnel and the former.

According to the 2015 annual report released by the organization (the latest latest version), the subscription subscription income from Fashion Calendar is US $1 million 500 thousand, which accounts for 13% of the total revenue. The income of education, consulting and fund-raising fund is US $7 million 300 thousand, which accounts for 62% of the total revenue, while the rest of our income relies on special activities such as CFDA awards, while 88% of our revenue is used to enhance subscribers' business.

But in the case of New York men's wear week is slightly different, CFDA is not only a dispatcher, but also a sponsor: "women's clothing week we just coordinate the press conference time, supervise what happened during the week, but in men's clothing week, we need to coordinate the time, but also responsible for making, basically we are the owner of New York men's wear week, but as a non-profit organization, our ultimate goal is not to make money, but to consolidate CFDA's fundamental, is to help designers promote their career, we are behind the scenes support." CFDA chief executive Steven Kolb told reporters in 2015.

However New York men's wear week After nearly 2 years of restarting, the outside world is still a wait-and-see attitude towards it. And in early February, after the 2017 autumn winter New York men's wear week, Amazon, one of its sponsor sponsors, announced its withdrawal from the 2 year contract. At present, car brand Cadillac, masculine skin care brand Axe and Samsung Electronics are still sponsorship brands of New York men's wear week.

In the face of the fact that many brands are trying to discard the shackles of industry and create a new world, CFDA is also making use of its own resource advantages to expand its business scope, such as providing electricity consultation to brands, and launching a retail experimental space with Cadillac. Recently, Public School has opened a flash shop here.

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