Is New Designer Dior Sales Soaring?
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According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, in the past two years, the world
Luxury goods
The cards have gone through many important occasions.
Designer
Personnel changes.
The new style of the new creative director who takes on heavy responsibilities often leads to controversial comments. But in the era of commercial interests and data driven, the role of fashion reviews is fading away, and performance data become the most important way to measure the performance of new designers.
From Christian
Dior
Last July, it announced that Maria Grazia Chiuri has been the new creative director of the brand for nearly 1 years. Maria Grazia Chiuri has released two garment series, a high fixed series and an early autumn series, bringing Dior style feminism as the core of the Dior, and successfully pulled the millennial consumers.
Maria Grazia Chiuri has been criticized for its first series in Dior.
Some fashion critics believe that her design completely deviates and distorts the core spirit of the old fashion house, far from the elegant style Dior has always praised.
Her iconic "fairy dress" design is also considered to be a reproduction of her works in the Valentino era.
Nearly 60% of the professional fashion critics think the new creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, is disappointing.
However, the latest data show that the Maria Grazia Chiuri has brought initial success to Dior.
Dior's earnings report for the first quarter of fiscal year 2017 showed that sales rose 18% to 500 million euros in the three months ended March 31st, and retail channel sales increased by 19% on real exchange rates compared with the same period last year.
Looking back on 2016's performance, Dior profits fell by 30.2% to 74 million euros as of June 30th last year, and business income fell 2.9% to 464 million euros.
Although the growth of Dior is not entirely related to the new creative director, it is obvious that Maria Grazia Chiuri has begun to prove itself.
After more than 7 months after Raf Simons left office, Maria Grazia Chiuri took over his position. In the announcement of the announcement, Dior CEO SidneyToledano emphasized that the brand will be reformed, and more Maria Grazia Chiuri will be injected into the understanding of the young lifestyle.
Compared with the exclusion of Maria Grazia Chiuri from the beginning of fashion reviews, the capital market has been optimistic since its announcement.
At the present time, the bullish performance has affirmed the foresight of Maria Grazia Chiuri's overall youth and closed the mouths of its finicky fashion reviews. This raises a question to us: is fashion criticism increasingly unimportant in the increasingly competitive fashion industry?
In fact, fashion critics' criticism of Dior did not prevent the millennial generation's love for new Dior.
Whether it is a feminist "We Should All Be Feminists" Manifesto T - shirt, or the white ribbon J 'ADIOR cat and the shoe, has become a very highly recognized symbol in the social media and street racket in a short period of half a year, deeply loved by the younger generation.
In the 2017 autumn winter clothing series released a month ago, Maria Grazia Chiuri launched a series of dark blue themes, and unexpectedly appeared tooling and cowboys.
Although cowboy and other seemingly less expensive materials are far from the past consumers' impression of Dior, they are closer to the young people and the right Street trend.
Maria Grazia Chiuri also increased the importance of handbags.
The wide shoulder strap handbag decorated with J'ADIOR metal logo keeps frequent exposure and becomes the new It Bag of Dior.
The ubiquitous J'ADIOR logo has also strengthened its image in repeated exposure, becoming a popular symbol and conforming to the logo consciousness in the current trend culture.
Accessories are also the specialty of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
During her stay in Valentino Valentino, she swept the fashion circle with Rockstud shoes, which was the hero of doubling the turnover of Valentino in Valentino.
In the background of the downturn of luxury goods, the total sales volume of Valentino brand in 2015 exceeded 1 billion US dollars, which reached a predetermined target two years earlier than expected. The pre tax profit increased by 57%, while the accessory products accounted for half of the total turnover.
It can be seen that although the original critics were skeptical about the design of Maria Grazia Chiuri, we have to admit that the new Dior has been widely recognized.
Since Maria Grazia Chiuri took office, fashion criticism has also undergone a change in overall attitude. More and more fashion commentaries are beginning to take a positive attitude towards her innovative initiatives.
This may be attributed to the sense of discomfort brought by designers at the beginning of their term of office.
In fact, many new designer changing brands have experienced such a shift from the commentary.
Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele's first show has also been criticized by fashion critics. At that time, many commentators were not optimistic about the internal creative director, but now the full recovery and strong growth of Gucci proved everything.
Hedi Slimane also had similar experiences in the Saint Laurent era.
After the two season men's wear and Four Seasons Women's show designed by Hedi Slimane, the fashion critics also shouted constantly. At that time, there were comments that he insisted on leaving Dior Homme thin to screaming route. Some people thought he made the noble YSL a rock star and FOREVER 21 design.
But in the end, he closed the door to fashion critics. Hedi Slimane pushed YSL into the fastest growing luxury brand of Kai Yun group, and brought the brand to the club of $1 billion in the first half of last year.
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Fashion reviews may have lost their traditional meaning.
Nowadays fashion reviews are hard to make objective judgments, and because of the influence of advertisers and lack of unique professional advice, they gradually lose their influence. Many times, fashion reviews have become the product of drift with the tide.
What is more important is that the current consumer demand has undergone profound changes, and consumers are more influenced by social media. The opinions of fashion reviews can not have any strong influence on either side.
For brands, the key is to turn fans into consumers by using stars and fashions.
In the cold season of Luxury Retailing, the competition for consumers' attention is becoming increasingly fierce. How to use the distinctive brand image and iconic products to become consumers is becoming a required course for brands.
A cruel fact is that the rigid standard of judging designers' performance has changed to performance.
Although good design is still important, the current logic seems to be that it can not be a good product, or that there is no way to turn it into a design for growth. It is not a good design.
With the accelerating pace of fashion industry, the pressure of creative directors of luxury brands has increased exponentially, but the profit driven capital market has never slowed down the pursuit of interests.
Therefore, in the face of strong commercial interests and the background of digital era, the fashion reviews that focus solely on design can no longer control the brand. The brand is more concerned with observing performance data and making decisions accordingly.
For consumers, personalized consumer demand is the general trend.
In the age of social media, consumers become more opinionated. Their first concern is the influence of celebrities and KOL.
Zheng Miaomiao, editor in chief of ELLE magazine's wireless content, recently said in a forum held in time hall that the past fashion design thought that ordinary consumers did not understand and need commentators to interpret. But now, consumer demand has changed, and consumers' demand for fashion is not good enough to wear. Fashion reviews have no need to interpret them.
The success of Maria Grazia Chiuri in Dior's younger initiatives has further confirmed the profound changes in the fashion industry. Both the market environment, consumer demand and the rule of pmission are undergoing rapid changes. The era of fashion criticism may be the past.
More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.
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