The Textile Technology Of "Han Style Organization" Woven Through The Longitude And Latitude Lines

World clothing shoes and hats online, in 1930s, in Palmyra, Syria, a number of exquisite silk fabrics of Han Dynasty were discovered by the archaeological team, including a fabric called "Han style organization" by Xia Nai, a famous archaeologist.

This is the textile technology commonly used in the Han Dynasty: on the plain ground organization, weave three upward twill floating flowers on the warp lines. One of them is a double horned animal with symmetrical left and right sides. It is very similar to the bird Tattoo which was unearthed from Han tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha.

It was the merchants of Palmyra who made these Chinese silk fabrics from the Persians and sold them to Rome provinces and coastal areas.

Donghua University Textile Institute Professor Tu Hengxian believes that through the Silk Road, the West has not only acquired delicate and delicate silk products, but also learned the textile technology that runs through the longitude and latitude lines.

Silk products sold by middlemen are very expensive. Textile workers in various cities in the Mediterranean region have reintegrated silk and local linen into new fabrics. The reprocessing of silk has promoted the development of western textile technology. After the second half of the fourth Century, the Sasan Persian silk weaving industry rose, and on this basis, a new variety of twill weft brocade was developed.

In 1990s, a Han Qi, similar to Han Qi's composition and style and weaving skills, was excavated at the Ying Pun site on the west side of Lop Nor in Yuli County, Xinjiang.

Xinjiang, which is at the crossroads between East and West, has witnessed the blending of eastern and western textile technology through the silk road.

Over the years, a large number of textiles from Eastern Han, Weijin to Northern Dynasties have been unearthed in ancient Kroraina, Ying Pun, Qi Mo Zha, Luk, min funya and Turpan along the Silk Road in Xinjiang.

The "textile archaeology" related topics recently completed by Professor Li Wenying of Xinjiang Institute of Archaeology and archaeology have provided new evidence for the textile technology and cultural exchanges of the Silk Road by analyzing the materials, patterns and techniques of unearthed textiles.

She introduced that as soon as the silk road was cleared in first Century BC, with the output of silk, the silkworm and silk weaving technology in Central Plains was gradually introduced into the Xinjiang area. Not later than third Century, silkworm breeding technology has been introduced into Xinjiang. In the middle of third Century, there were complex estate brocade in Xinjiang. Subsequently, silk products and silk weaving technology spread through Xinjiang along the silk road.

"From historical records and archaeological data, during the Han and Jin Dynasties, Chinese silk was spread to the west, mainly through the Silk Road South Road and middle road in Xinjiang. Silk weaving technology In particular, the technology of jacquard brocade should first be used for reference to the main oasis towns along the silk road. She said.

In the Han and Jin Dynasties, Ying Pun was located in the middle of the silk road. In the 90s of last century, Chinese archaeologists excavated more than a hundred tombs at the camp site. Among them, the size of Ying pan 95BYYM15 tomb is the highest in the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin dynasties before the cold period. The tomb owner is a man, wearing a gold mask and a gown, showing the unusual status and status before birth.

The head of the tomb was pillowy, which is a bedding commonly used by the Central Plains people in the Han and Tang Dynasties. Its fabric is just for the birds and Shoushou. It can be seen that after the rule and management of the western regions in the Central Plains of the Han Dynasty, the culture of the western region was also inherited everywhere.

The red earth animal tree tattoo worn by the tomb owner is the product of a combination of things. Its unique double woolen fabric is interwoven with red and yellow woollen weft and weft patterns, and is compared with 1:1 plain weave. It depicts the 22 opposite characters of pomegranate tree: they are naked, curly hair, high nose, armed with spear, shield, sword and other weapons, with typical ancient Greek and Rome style.

The lower half of the sleeves of the animal and tree stripes robes is made up of geometric brocade tapes. The beautiful vortex pattern on top is a typical Western Asian style. According to Li Wenying analysis, from the point of view of technological weaving technology, this kind of brocade may be based on traditional Chinese plain weave brocade. Combined with the artistic and technical characteristics of the human animal tree, the researchers presumed that it originated from the areas of Central Asia such as Da Xia or ghartana, which were deeply influenced by Greek culture.

"The textiles unearthed from this tomb are not only silk fabrics from the mainland, but also new varieties of silk produced by the textile culture of the East and West, and more worsted flowers from the far western world. They bring together the different styles of art and technology in the western region and the East and the west, thus showing rich cultural connotations. Li Wenying said.

The influence of Western textiles on China begins with ornamentation. Li Wenying introduced the unearthed silk patterns of the Northern Dynasties in Xinjiang, for example, in addition to the traditional Chinese rare animals and animals, a large number of animals and animals appeared in Central Asia, Western Asia and South Asia, such as lions, elephants, peacocks, goats, winged horses and camels. Moreover, after the Wei and Jin Dynasties, there were also plant patterns with Western cultural characteristics, such as the earliest grape stripe introduced.

Li Wenying said that in the silk from the Eastern Han Dynasty, Wei Jin to the Northern Dynasties unearthed in Xinjiang, there were still a lot of fancy fabrics. From a technical point of view, in addition to the traditional central plains technology used in silk production from the mainland, there was also a prominent silk weaving product in Central Asia's technical system in Xinjiang. She thinks, for these Silk fabrics In particular, the technical information conveyed by the brocade that reflects the highest level of silk weaving technology should be further excavated, which will help deepen the textile technology exchange study on the silk road.

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