[Close Up] Chinese Trendy Men In Northeast China. Do Boys Like To Wear Sable?

Lin Gengxin shot the advertisement for Hailan Home. Lin Gengxin is from Liaoning

The New York Fashion Week in autumn and winter 2018 was full of eye-catching print patterns, which seemed inexplicably familiar. Yes, it is like the "Northeast Fragments" appearing on the actors of sketches and Errenzhuan. In recent years, this kind of printing pattern, which was once said to be "Tun" (the northeast dialect refers to rustic), is no longer just satisfied with being a part of the northeast culture, but has gone straight to the international stage.

When it comes to the Northeast, most people have a lot of stereotypes about it. In short, few people compare it with fashion Connected. This land, located in the northernmost part of China, has a long winter, especially in Heilongjiang, which can even last for five or six months. In order to withstand the freezing environment of more than - 30 degrees below zero, northeast people have to wear heavy down jackets and cotton trousers with a visual weight increase of ten kilograms in winter. Some Northeast people who have lived in the south often feel that they go home every year Down Jackets And cotton trousers, like being sealed in an instant.

So, what do you think the Northeast people will wear? I'm afraid that in nine out of ten people will say that it is Diao Er, cotton padded jacket, woolen trousers This can't be blamed for the Spring Festival Gala. After all, it's also wonderful to open Taobao. Many people will buy plush Lei Feng hats in advance when they travel to the northeast, thick enough to cover your breath; Thickened army coat makes you feel like carrying a dynamite bag; or mink coat , buying one is more expensive than the whole travel cost

However, with the attitude of "serving only the people who think independently", we recently went to the Northeast and found that if you really wear the above clothes to walk on the streets of the Northeast, it is almost equivalent to writing the words "outsiders" directly on your face. In fact, compared with other cities in China, the Northeast does not seem to be a "village" in summer or winter. It can even be called a "hometown of Chinese trendy men". 　　

　　Vivienne Tam　　

Plush Lei Feng Hat

Thickened military coat

　　 Northeast boys like to wear minks?

To convince you of this, the first question to be solved is: Do Northeast boys really wear minks? This question is similar to "Do people in Beijing live in siheyuan" and "Do people in Chengdu especially eat spicy food".

From the streets of Harbin, although the temperature in Harbin in early March was still minus 20 degrees, there was almost no connection between young men and mink fur on the streets.

It is undeniable that Northeasterners did have a special preference for mink coats in the past. This coat made of sable skin not only has the function of resisting wind, snow and rain, but also is a symbol of wealth. Before modern times, there were many nomadic people living in the northeast, such as Qidan, Jin, Manchu, who fished and hunted for a living. In terms of environment, the northeast region has a high latitude and low heat, which is not suitable for cotton planting. It is sparsely populated, and there is not enough labor force to process cotton. For the sake of convenience, the northeast people have a tradition of directly putting animal fur on their bodies since ancient times. However, because the price of mink, especially sable, was really not cheap, only the emperor and princes and nobles could enjoy mink fur in the Qing Dynasty, which was a matter of face. When there was no class taboo in modern times, mink wearing became one of the trends pursued by Northeast people. 　　

In the new variety show "Idol Trainees" launched by iQiyi, the contestant Bu Fan, who is from Northeast China, had several "close contacts" with Diao

mink

For example, in the popular film and television drama "Breaking through the Northeast", the people in the drama moved to northeast China with their families at the beginning of the 20th century, wearing sheepskin jackets and cotton lined jackets.

However, mink fur at that time was more like a feeling to the Northeast people, and it was a signal to announce the beginning of winter every year.

Later, the prosperity of mink was closely related to the border trade between Northeast China and Russia. In the 1990s, due to the frequent trade activities between the northeast region and the Russian border, a fur trading market was established in Tong'erbu, Liaoning. After the shock of the financial crisis around 2000, in order to ensure the normal conduct of foreign trade, Tong Erbao was designated as a new town in Shenyang Economic Zone in 2010. The total area of several new leather cities reached 800000 square meters, equivalent to nearly three and a half Bird's Nest stadiums.

At the peak, the daily peak passenger flow of Haining Leather City in Tong Erbao can exceed 30000 people, and the total number of eloquence here is only 43000. That was the best time for fur in Northeast China. People wearing mink everywhere, regardless of gender, rich or poor.

Now the situation is different. According to the analysis of data from some online shopping platforms, Fur. com said that as of 2015, the preference of 18-24 young people in Northeast China for furs is rapidly decreasing, the preference of 30-34 year olds is relatively stable, and that of 35 year olds has slightly increased. The young people in the Northeast are slowly abandoning this elegant style.

Why do boys in the Northeast no longer wear minks? There are two main reasons. From the perspective of consumer psychology, the rapid development of the Internet has accelerated the speed of information circulation. Even if the Northeast is located in remote areas, it does not prevent these fashionable boys in the Northeast from having more choices in choosing clothes. From the source of supply, in 2012, the GDP growth rate of the three northeastern provinces became the lowest in the country, and Liaoning was the lowest with 1.9%. The fur animal breeding in the northeast was also in chaos to a certain extent. A swarm of mink farmers led to the supply of minks far exceeding the demand in that year. According to the survey of EGGER Agricultural Database, the mink produced around 2013 can be sold until now, which makes fur sellers lose confidence in recent years.

So the question is, what are they wearing now? Here are some cases. 　　

Moreover, according to the feedback of many Northeast boys, they often have similar preferences in wearing, such as small pants, medium length overcoats, and preference for street style. They will imitate wearing but have their own ideas.

"Before I came to Northeast China to study, I thought that the boys in Northeast China wore the same clothes as the boys at home, but I also thought that they would wear sable, because it was cold here after all," Wan He, from a university in Heilongjiang Province, Hubei Province, said in an interview with an interface reporter, "After coming to school here, I found that southerners have more formal clothes, while northeasterners usually wear calf pants, which will look cooler."

Northeast boys like purple, army green and wine red

In the public perception, young boys in Northeast China are easily divided into two more extreme categories. One is the sentimental literary style, the other is the flamboyant style of mink skin with gold chain. The former is closer to the normal life, while the latter generally appears in groups such as shoumai and fast acting anchors, with a tendency to be "stigmatized".

In fact, the literary and artistic style of Northeast boys has some historical roots. Many people who have come into contact with the boys in Northeast China say that they have a unique self-confidence in their eyes. The writer Jiu Yan explained this confidence in History, Memory and Production: Cultural Studies of the Old Industrial Base in Northeast China. After the September 18th Incident in Northeast China, a large number of writers who fought against colonialism emerged in the literary world. Li Ao, who claimed to be "the first person in Chinese vernacular literature", Xiao Hong, one of the four talented women in the Republic of China, and her husband Xiao Jun Painters such as Yu Lianke, who mainly expressed the history and culture of the Northeast, grew up in the Northeast, a land full of resistance and struggle, and experienced turbulence and rapid development. They all have complex feelings for the Northeast.

In the 1990s, Northeast China, as the industrial base of New China, was set up with a masculine image of "the eldest son of the Republic", which made the Northeast people more confident. Even though for a long time, the writers and artists in Northeast China were buried for many years for various historical reasons, when history was turned over again, They wiped off the dust on their bodies and gradually came into the public's view. As the poster of "Golden Age" directed by Xu Anhua said, "Everything is free", in that era of change, people in the Northeast were depressed, but at the same time, they were extremely active in thought.

Northeast people also have outstanding performance in cultural and entertainment undertakings. This is not just limited to local culture such as sketches and duets. As early as 1945, Changchun Film Studio, the first film studio in New China, was founded in Changchun, Jilin Province. Due to its geographical advantages and its own artistic talents, many of the then Northeast Chaomen took the road of literature and art, from actor Li Youbin to Sun Honglei to "poet" singer Li Jian and pianist Lang Lang, They used literature and art to silently resist the so-called "decline and decline" of Northeast China in recent years. 　　

The Golden Age

Changchun Film Studio

But on the whole, the tone of Northeast China is strong. Tmall once set up a color trend research team, which analyzed the popularity of clothing colors in various regions of China, and found that Northeast people also have unique features in the selection of clothing colors.

According to the latest data provided for the interface by its data, in addition to basic colors such as black and white, the three favorite colors of men in Northeast China are purple, military green and wine red. Especially young people in Northeast China aged 20-25 prefer clothes with high saturation colors, while southern men show a clear preference for khaki.

Summer, the general manager of Ruiyide Shenyang Company, said in an interview on the interface: "The consumption pattern of Northeast people is more inclined to show off consumption clothing The choice of clothes with large brand logo area, including mink's prosperity in the northeast, is also related to this aspect of psychology. " This can also be seen from the sales trend of brands in Northeast China - typical businesses such as Mishkanyc Boy London, etc., has always been in a leading position in terms of visitors and sales in Northeast China.

"Pompous style" is greatly influenced by Korean tide

The reason why the boys in Northeast China can have a better sense of fashion is also greatly influenced by foreign culture.

Among them, Japan and South Korea have the most significant influence. In recent years, a large number of young people in the Northeast have moved out, and a large number of Koreans have settled in the Northeast. The integration of these cultures has gradually been fed back to clothing. According to the results of China's sixth population census, in the past decade, the number of people flowing out of Northeast China has reached as much as 1 million. In addition to some people flowing to the first tier and southern cities such as Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou, a large part of the population flows to South Korea, Japan and a few other countries.

Due to their close geographical location and the concentration of ethnic minorities, South Korea and Japan have not only become the main countries of population flow in Northeast China, but also take Northeast China as the main export place of culture. Korean dramas such as The Inheritors, Ghosts, Descendants of the Sun, and Running Man》、 The popularity of variety shows such as "Unlimited Challenge" and "We Are Married" in Northeast China has also turned parts of Northeast China into a gathering place of Korean Wave culture. 　　

Korea portfolio BIGBANG

"I liked BIGBANG when I was in junior high school, so my dressing style may be influenced by the Korean Wave unconsciously," Zhao Ming said in an interview with the interface.

The conditions of Northeast people also provide a good development space for the image of "Chaonan". On the whole, the tide flu of Northeast boys benefited from the fact that most of them have long legs and are natural clothes racks. For example, Tong Dawei, an actor who has always received zero negative reviews, Lin Xinxing, who has a strong sense of humor, and Liu Ye, who mostly appears as a tough guy, are all "trendy men" who grew up in northeast China. Many studies show that these self conditions have a great relationship with the eating habits of Northeast people to some extent. Compared with the south, the northeast has a higher latitude, and the winter is cold and long. People in the northeast mainly eat rice, supplemented by pasta. At the same time, the dishes are characterized by heavy oil and salt to achieve the goal of cold resistance. According to the statistics of the National Health Commission in 2015, the height of people in Northeast China is among the highest in the country, and Heilongjiang ranks third only after Shandong and Beijing. With high growth and self-confidence, most Northeast boys will start to pay attention to the matching of clothes in bloggers, fashion magazines, or Korean dramas from junior high school.

According to the introduction in the summer, the consumption of clothing and catering by Northeast people also ranks among the top in the per capita disposable income in the country. According to the 2017 report on the disposable income of residents in 31 provinces in China released by the International Bureau of Statistics, the per capita disposable income of residents in Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang was 27835.44 yuan, 21368.32 yuan and 21205.79 yuan respectively, of which Jilin Province ranked 18th. Although it seems that the situation has improved compared with previous years, the trend of "daring to spend money, willing to spend money, and comparing to spend money" in food and clothing is still prevailing in Northeast China. To take a simple example, in Northeast China, a person invited his friend to dinner. If the other party proposed AA payment at the checkout, the invited person would feel that the other party did not treat him as a friend. In other words, the "face problem" is a major reason why the consumption level of Northeast people is still in the forefront of the country under the condition of low per capita disposable income.

　　 Fashion brands give opportunities to Northeast China

But just like Japanese Korean style and European American style, which are often confused labels, is it not accurate to designate the Northeast as the same style?

In theory, Northeast China mainly refers to Heilongjiang, Jilin and Liaoning provinces. Heilongjiang borders Russia, Jilin is in the middle, and Liaoning is across the sea from South Korea. But perhaps the name Northeast is too popular, or perhaps the relationship between the three provinces is too close. Except for slight differences in accent, there is almost no difference in personal dress preferences among the three provinces in Northeast China: compared with the southern China, where the clothing industry is developed, consumers in Northeast China generally re dress, but their brand awareness is weaker than that of the southern China.

However, there are obvious differences in the layout of fashion brands and shopping centers in the three northeastern provinces.

Summer, general manager of Ruiyide Shenyang Company, told the reporter on the interface, "Most shopping centers in Northeast China are located in Shenyang, Dalian, Changchun and Harbin, among which Shenyang has the most. Common shopping centers such as China Resources, Hang Lung and k11 have a good development trend in Shenyang. However, due to the difference in geographical location, local department stores (such as Qiulin Company in Harbin) in Changchun and Harbin are stronger than Shenyang." He added, "This is mainly because among the cities in the three northeastern provinces, Shenyang has a high price and is located at the gateway to the northeast. As a central city, Shenyang has the strongest radiation capacity among all the cities in the three northeastern provinces."

Harbin Qiulin Department Store

It is reported that the explosive growth of commercial real estate in the three northeastern provinces for the first time originated from the investment attraction in 2006. This continuous growth continued until 2016. In the past ten years, the commercial real estate in the northeast region has reached more than 8 million. Although 2016 and 2017 fell into a low tide, there is still an estimated growth of 5 million in the next five years.

We had a preset that since there were many trendy men in Northeast China, whether many fashion brands and Japanese and Korean fashion brands would take Northeast China as the main market when entering the Chinese market? In summer, we expressed different views on this: "In fact, the fashion brands started from the first tier cities, and then will radiate to the second and third tier cities, including Northeast China. However, some brands do show prominent sales growth in Northeast China. For example, Aape's sales in Northeast China (single store) are almost comparable to those in Beijing Sanlitun Taikoo Li. As for Japanese and Korean brands, the development of Japanese brands will be worse. In recent years, many niche Japanese brands in Shenyang Xidan have closed their stores due to poor sales. The development of Korean brands will be better in the past few years. In recent years, the updating speed has slowed down, and the popularity of goods has also lowered consumers' expectations of them. "

In a word, among the male consumers nationwide, the male students in Northeast China do appear slightly different under the influence of the unique consumer psychology and cultural atmosphere. However, due to the restrictions of brand awareness and per capita income, from the perspective of brand consumption, if we think that "Chinese trendy men are in Northeast China" I'm afraid it is unfair to male consumers in other regions. However, for the confident boys in Northeast China, this statement may not be excessive in their eyes.