[Depth] "This Is Hip-Hop" To Promote The Rise Of Domestic Fashion Brands.

In China, it is a common understanding of the public to dance hip-hop, but it is such a group of people that Youku and Iqiyi have smashed over 300 million of their funds and invited them to come to the public.

This is hip-hop dancer He Zhancheng Jawn Ha performing at Angel Chen show.

After the broadcast of the street dance, Yang Wenhao's shop soon sold out.

Yang Wenhao is not the same in the way of the first appearance of this! Street dance. When other players are playing in sequence, Yang Wenhao is pulled out of the crowd by Huang Zitao and named for the performance. As an early class member of the "circle", he has accumulated quite a lot of popularity in the Chinese street dance circle, and the most famous name known to him is "the first Chinese to win the poppin championship in the United States".

For many spectators who know Yang Wenhao through Youku program, probably few people know another identity outside his dancers.

The V is the personal brand he founded in 2010. Now he runs an online shop in Taobao. He can see the huge posters of Yang Wen Hao in this "hip-hop" program and the column selection of "Yang Wenhao Viho, which is the same street dance", which has become the living sign of The V.

"Wen Hao is hardly teaching now, and The V is simply too busy."

The V partner Zhong told the interface news.

Zhong helped Yang Wenhao deal with all kinds of business of the brand, but also handled many personal affairs of Yang Wenhao as a friend. He said that the pmission power and influence of the program were very strong. After the broadcast, the traffic and sales volume of The V Taobao shop doubled.

This is hip-hop, which is a hip-hop screening reality show launched by Youku in February 24th. It invites a large number of professional dancers from China to conduct Battle (competition) through solo performance and team performance, thus leading to the championship. It is the first network variety that has been deeply cultivated in the vertical field of hip-hop in China.

After the first three phases of the program, micro-blog has seized 33 hot spots and ranked first in the Baidu index.

So far, "this is hip-hop" has come to the seventh stage, after 12 players eliminated, Yang Wenhao in Huang Zi Tao team successfully entered the 28 strong, has also been a strong candidate for the final champion.

The number of micro-blog's points that Yang Wenhao sent in January still fluctuated around 2000, and nearly four times that of March.

In addition to professionalism, he and his mentor Huang Zitao's interaction in the show also suck up a lot of interaction.

For professional dancers, their career development path is to prove their strength through continuous competitions and awards, then start their own names, so that they can be seen and will be invited to teach.

However, according to the data provided by the dancers' hip hop alliance, there are over 5000 hip-hop training studios in the country, and 5 million of the annual hip-hop training trips and more than 300 thousand of hip-hop practitioners each year.

Today, however, variety shows have also made Yang Wenhao's wave of business a great success.

Yang Wenhao's first appearance in "this is hip-hop".

The V Backpack

The V cap

Last summer's heat

Yang Wenhao's clothing business "depends on the promotion of program resources".

If last summer's "hip-hop" in China was accidentally red in the middle, "this is hip-hop" is already ready to link up with the trend consumer market.

For example, if you watch a program, people will find that a "Tmall product" will appear as a corner sign. This program is jointly launched by Youku and Tmall products.

If you open Taobao mobile phone, enter the word "hip-hop" in the search box, APP will automatically lead to Tmall's "hip-hop" thematic shopping page, which will pop up the "Taobao short video" that the specific dancer filmed on the page. The text says "this is the street dance send welfare!" on the topic page, follow the progress of the program, each phase will launch two main cafes, analyze their wear style, and give the corresponding single product link. In addition, there are also the dancers' exclusive interview and the trend goods trend list, from content to electricity supplier, forming a complete closed loop.

This is the thematic interface of Taobao street dance.

Analysis of dancers' wear in theme

Guan Jian, the head of Tmall production, told the interface news that the 90% dancers in the program were all provided by Tmall.

"This! Hip-hop" project started two years ago, and the idea of doing such a program is based on the big data of Ali, which is a consumer insight. In the past three years, the sales volume of Tmall Chao brand has increased to 106%. Undoubtedly, it is the cash cow at present.

"The trend of consumers has been put before us, that is, tide cards must be the next hot spot. Therefore, in the first step of" hip-hop "in China, we must seize the opportunity of hip-hop.

Guan Jian said.

"Tmall production" was officially born in July last year. Entertainment marketing is a new format that it brings. Like Tmall's other products, super brand days and Tmall small black boxes, Tmall products is becoming another "fist product" of Tmall market.

Tmall produces a layout of 6 ensemble 1 plays, behind which Tmall produces hopes to make Tmall electric business through vertical variety of content through its own variety show.

Tmall turned from the father of gold to the first production of copyrighted producers. Last year's "cross bar kitchen" was reported. The overall volume of the first quarter of the program was 200 million. Among them, the obvious brand of good property shop and bear bear appliance brand was greatly benefited in the program, and the Baidu index increased by more than 10 times.

This gives Tmall a taste of sweetness.

And continue to cooperate with Alibaba group's Youku platform has also become a matter of course.

Tmall cross border to do variety shows in fact coincide with the route of electricity supplier pformation.

As China's electricity supplier giant, Tmall is no longer a simple selling platform. From the Tmall brand day to the annual double eleven trend, Tmall plays the role of brand marketing. The platform itself carries considerable traffic volume, which is very attractive to any brand, and entertainment marketing is a very important part in brand marketing.

Guan Jian referred to the "Tmall production" as the starting point business, while Tmall electric business is the terminal business. Before buying the consumer, the consumer likes to go ahead, and the star takes the goods with a reason. The high-quality entertainment content can also attract consumers and generate stickiness, and then cash in.

But compared to the previous two years, Tmall has been throwing money and variety shows everywhere, and now becoming a content producer is really trying to make up for the upstream business.

The whole industry chain of entertainment + brand + e-commerce relies on the whole Alibaba ecosystem, and finally fermented in a completely new content form on Tmall platform, marking that the consumer media platform and content distribution platform will be completely opened up.

At the same time for the brand, in Taobao Tmall search "this is hip-hop" to jump out of exclusive page marketing experience is unprecedented, through the variety show, grass, stimulate consumer shopping desire, let Taobao Tmall platform to undertake, to achieve the order pformation, breaking the gap between brand marketing and electricity supplier pformation.

According to Guan Jian, this is...

"Is a series of programs produced by Tmall. Next, it will launch the network ensemble of vertical fields in a row. This is" iron armor "and" this is dunks ".

Those tide people

Of course, this depends on the maturity of Yang Wenhao's generation of dancers, which has facilitated this interlocking cooperation.

Zhong Ji told the interface news that Yang Wenhao earned about half of his income through dance and personal wave cards. Tide card has become one of the main businesses. Compared to teaching and receiving performances, it is obviously faster to cash in through the fan effect. "After all, the audience brought by teaching is too small to match with the brand audience."

Through the program to accumulate fans, for fans, their image has been symbolized, the name of the brand can directly complete pformation.

The cry of "2018 is the first year of street dance" is so loud that it can not get rid of the nugget.

Last year, Hu Haiquan, one of the first hip-hop investors to invest in hip-hop, invested in the "cultural street industry" again this year. This is the street dance. He shouted, "where is the main consumer? Where is our battlefield?"

Such a slogan.

Obviously, last summer's heat remained.

If we look at it for four years, the underground cultural environment in China is still very closed. The street dance dancers are self-contained and express themselves in their sphere.

In fact, Yang Wenhao was already one of the first hip hop dancers who were willing to go to the ground at that time. He had a strong desire to popularize street dance culture through popular TV platform. "This street dance" is not the first variety that Yang Wenhao participated in. In 2014, he walked on the stage of "China good dance".

However, "China good dance" is a comprehensive dance variety. It is not set up solely for street dance, but its focus on the trend culture is not enough.

In Chinese good dance, Yang Wenhao was only one step away from the final.

But from last year, things began to turn out differently.

Because of the emergence of hip-hop in China, rap, hip-hop, graffiti and discs are the four most important parts of underground culture, breaking through the inherent boundaries for the first time in China and having a mass of soil.

Even in the early days of the program group's invitation, many singers still had a strong underground complex. But half of the program was recorded, and the environment of underground culture had been intersect with the visible speed of the naked eye and the mainstream culture.

The same trend is the same in hip hop.

"I have always been on the ground."

Bboy dancer throws up such a phrase: street dance dancers seem to have disdained to label themselves with "Underground (underground)". As the title is called, they only live underground. If they come out, they will be criticized for not showing respect for the underground spirit.

Testino, a 20 year old young hip hop dancer, said to the interface: "when we decided to take the road of dancing together, many of them had already given up, and there was no money to support them at home.

In China, it is a common understanding of the public to dance hip-hop, but it is such a group of people that Youku and Iqiyi have smashed over 300 million of their funds and invited them to come to the public.

"Tmall production" takes the role of producer.

National tide revival?

This craze is being overwhelming.

The industry has also influenced some independent designers who have been paying attention to the trend and designing direction more flexibly than big groups.

In the opening show of the first phase of this "hip-hop" tutor, there is a fixed motion with hands pushed forward. The audience who is familiar with hip-hop culture may be able to see that this action represents the image of ninjas. The dance troupe behind it is also the world's top dance troupe Kinjaz inspired by the "bearers". The red dress he wears is designed by Chen Anqi, the founder and designer of fashion brand Angel Chen.

Chen Anqi said that the totem of the red dress was inspired by Southeast Asian culture.

In the Fashion Week held in Shanghai at the beginning of the month, the Angel Chen2018 autumn winter series press conference played a dance show in the form of hip-hop.

In the evening of March 31st, the platform of hip hop Battle was built on the two floor of the Lafayette art and design center in Shanghai. With the music of strong rhythm, the name of the introduction of MC in the mouth attracted a lot of cheers. They were not models but one of the top dancers in the street dance circle.

From He Zhancheng, a member of the Kinjaz dance troupe to Yunnan Bboy dancers, she wears a new series of clothes designed by Angel Chen, and the high saturation color and rhyme sense of the strong hip hop dance complement each other.

But at the scene, many fashion show editors, circle of small partners actually do not know who the hell is now, who is He Zhancheng, and who is Xiao Bai.

In the carnival of niche culture in the mainstream market, the fashion industry is now away from the traditional way of "popularity is from the small to the public", and has become an elite party playing Call with the public.

The first phase of the mentor show is Aangel Chen, which is designed to dance Ninja Dance.

Angel Chen show Bboy dancers performance

Angel Chen show dance performance

Chen Anqi always understood the trend of young people's market, but she said it was more like a continuation of personal stories. "My ex boyfriend is Breaking."

Chen Anqi smiled awkwardly for a while. Although she grew up learning ballet from her childhood, she began to have strong interest in hip-hop from high school. "This street dance seed has been planted in my heart for a long time."

When she noticed this "street dance" program, Chen Anqi himself was busy preparing for the Fashion Week conference in Milan. It happened that Fang Jun, the artistic director of this street dance company, was also in Milan. "My wife is also a fashion designer. She has a good relationship with Angela, and Angie's parents and I knew it very early."

Fang Jun said that when Chen Anqi discovered that the program was what he did, he insisted on cooperation.

It is the first question to ask which dancer to interpret the design of Angel Chen. "You probably can't imagine that I watched the program one frame at a time."

Chen Anqi told the interface news that because of the problem of program editing, many dancers showed little exposure, but there were many suitable candidates for her. Chen Anqi almost chose the corner through sixth screens.

Hip hop dancers and dancing models are much more limited than dancing models.

In order to meet the needs and comfort of the dancers on the stage, Chen Anqi's team almost overturned all the show money, and customized new styles for every dancer.

Fang Jun, who suddenly appeared after the show, was astonished. He did not plan to come to the scene, but he still could not help looking at the popularity of these dancers who had been brought out by hand. After all, the dancers were invited by himself.

"Chen Anqi has always been busy in the background, but today, she went to the stage to watch the whole trip for the first time."

Fang Jun took a deep breath, and he felt that the dancers he had brought out might be really burning.

"I just want to make them angry."

Fang junben thought so.

They are angry, and the youth trend culture is also on fire.

As a visual art form, dance plays a very important role.

Chen Anqi and dancers are in the background.

Unpredictable life cycle

However, running minority culture is a rare result.

Fang Jun had been dancing for ten years before he dared to do street dance.

When introducing himself, Fang Jun always mentioned that "many young people are watching my program grow up".

From the beginning of the "dance forest conference" to "China good dance" and "dance competition," he was known as the "dance instructor" by the industry, is the pioneer of dance variety shows.

But when I first asked the underground dancers to take part in this "hip-hop", Fang Jun described "carrying moon cakes on the peninsula and visiting them one by one."

The rise of the trend culture is phenomenal in China, and the tide brand culture is also.

Including stars, people who are interested in underground culture are rushing to make their own homes, not to mention the people of Keep Real.

In the middle, the word "chao chao" has quietly captured the Chinese fashion circle, and even one of the ten friends in the circle of friends has called himself "the master of the tide". When everyone has not yet understood what the national tide brand is and what the main person is doing, they have made steady progress through the easterly tide of the street.

Occasionally, there are also Popping dancers, Nic Zhou, who are embarrassed by this: "most people around us do not understand that the clothes they bought are cool, but they always feel" familiar. "

This feeling of "deja vu" is criticized by people as the death point of the so-called "national tide circle".

What is the tide of the national tide? Is it an imported product? This question concerns how long it can last.

Chen Anqi said: "street dance culture can be landed in China, rather than completely brought to the doctrine."

This culture and youth culture are not completely coincident. Now China, like the US in 1960s and Japan in 1980s, is experiencing the impact and baptism of minority culture on popular culture, so there is no big difference in the flow of consciousness behind it.

But this cultural movement is not only aimed at young people, but China's tide card is not just increasing and decreasing foreign things.

Chen Anqi hoped that his creation could be a hip-hop costume with "Chinese sense of the times".

Today, the word "national tide" is the original trend brand, but this is not to say that as long as the tide card of the Chinese people can be called "national tide".

In fact, like Supreme, tide brand should have a specific core, for example, the core of Supreme is skateboard, the core of NEIGHBORHOOD is locomotive, similarly, the tide card in China needs its own cultural foundation.

Li Yichao, the director of ENSHADOWER, said that "the core of the brand is the core of the whole brand". Li said that their work is not about a single garment or a series, but on the brand as a unit, which is responsible for the links from concept to production and then to sales.

As more and more people are engaged in the industry, the relevant concepts become more and more clear, and Chinese young people are beginning to pour into their own pioneering business. However, in the environment where China's tide is coming back quickly, the life cycle is the most serious problem facing every trend brand.

Li Yichao said frankly that one of the problems in business is lack of experience, one of which is limited resources. "As an original brand, we do not operate in a capital way."

In general, it is still a matter of how to operate the brand with a company's attitude, because a certain one or two commodities become explosive funds are only pient and low sustainability.

"Compared to some of the designer brands in the class, the trend brand itself has a relatively grassy gene."

YOHO, assistant to Bao Zhongwei, President of the fashion culture communication platform, said at YOHO! RISING CHINA forum that many people who set up brands were not graduating from design institutes, but from the love of an element in this culture, and then expressed themselves in the form of clothing.

RISING CHINA is YOHO! Last year launched the national tide brand plan, using YOHO's platform to help the development of the national tide brand.

From the beginning of the content, YOHO! More than a decade's history is basically synchronized with the growth of China's trend market. Since then, YOHO BUY BUY has been complementary to the global trend Carnival and gradually formed a complete industrial chain closed loop.

Three years ago, they set up YOHO! YOHOPE, a designer incubator, and now have more than 40 designer brands.

From 2012 to 2016

The growth rate is about 3% to 4%, while the consumption growth rate of fashion brands is around 25%. From a different perspective, China's GDP accounts for about 15% of the world's total, but China's trend brands account for only 2% to 3% of the world's total.

During the Shanghai fashion week, market consultancy Nielsen and OFashion fan orange released the world's first wave of big data research trend and user analysis report. The data show that the growth rate of tide brand consumption is 3.7 times that of the non tidal brand. After 90 and 95, it is the main consumer group, and the proportion in 95 years to three years has gradually climbed to 25%. Among them, the top 10% users of mobile Internet accounted for 60% to 80% of the total personal expenditure and occupied 48% market share.

The trend of consumption has a total of 350 billion plates, and the tide is only at the initial stage.

For example, the total number of goods brands is about more than 1200, and the number of national tide brands fluctuated at 200, accounting for about 20% of the total sales.

Wang Xi studied Supreme's joint fire. He found that 50% of the brand's traffic came from direct current rather than advertising. Users would go directly to their official website to buy, which is a hard number for any fashionable marketing brand. This is due to brand potential, followed by scale growth capability. "Some brands will become more and more low as new stores open, and the sales capacity of each store will become lower and lower, so creating a brand is one thing, and running a brand is another matter."

The target consumer group of the trend brand is always the youngest and the most in front of the trend. Data show that in the consumer portrait of YOHO!, the 18-22 year old group accounts for 51%. In Chen Anqi's words, these people bring money and flow to push the culture to a new high point. However, the enthusiasm that the brand has been chasing is coming quickly, and buying the first product from the next order is very few.

A loyal fan of ENSHADOWER once told Li Yichao that he had bought the first assault suit from the brand. From FIXED GEAR to Sneaker to Cyberpunk, Li Yichao did not do anything popular.

There must be someone faster and more advanced than you.

The only advantage of hip-hop dancers who launch their own brands is the fan base.

Through program pmission, they have become the KOL or net red of subdivision to a certain extent. However, building a brand and running a brand are two different things. The accumulation of popularity can be realized and can be draining away.

This is the dancer of the street dance. The kangaroo did the tide card in 2015, but it ended up in failure. According to his entertainment capital theory, the reason was that he was cheated by the manufacturer. "Our circle may be relatively simple and simple, and there are not so many businessmen thinking."

The pition from dancers to businessmen is like starting a business again. The difficulty is self-evident.

Yang Wenhao's partner in The V is a small boy who grew up with him. The designer was a former student of Yang Wenhao.

"As long as people are in Beijing, Yang Wenhao will come to The V to participate in the design of clothing styles," he said.

Zhong Ji said.

Hip-hop as a complete industrial chain is gradually taking shape. Among them, tide card as an indispensable derivative is an important part, which coincides with the pformation route of star idol.

"I have spent so much energy that they must be idols."

Fang Jun spoke of the dancer who he brought with him. "Only by becoming an idol can they take up this.

"