[Close-Up] The Road Of Fission, Mistake And Heavy Store

The United States and the United States, which are both inside and outside, have been trying to change in recent years. 　　

Zhou Chengjian manages his current strategy as a stupid way.

The "clumsy" in his mouth refers to the five sub brands Mtee, ASELF, Novachic, HYSTYL and NEWear hatched out of Metersbonwe last year. They represent the five styles of street interest, family, urban light business, fashion and leisure. According to Zhou Chengjian's words, since then, the United States is no longer confined to students in a style.

Because Zhou Chengjian was once a fashion designer in China. industry The richest man. He was born in a tailor in Qingtian, Wenzhou, and founded the Qingtian garment button factory in 1994 before founding the United States. With independent design and production outsourcing of light asset mode, Smith Barney's growth rate is amazing. Since 2002, the United States has taken a big store. strategy In response to the star effect and leisure style of spokesperson Jay Chou, a group of student fans were quickly enrolled. Almost all of the Hong Kong clothing brands JEANSWEST and Baleno entered the mainland market almost at the same time. They also could not compete with the US power. In 2012, the number of stores in the United States reached 5220.

In the first ten years of twenty-first Century, Smith Barney became the tide card. "No ordinary way" became a slogan for young people. But in recent years, the United States has no longer equated with the two words of "trend". 　　

New brand HYTSTYL

New brand NEWear

New brand ASELF

New brand Novachic

New brand MTEE

　 Fission change

For this time of mass incubation of new brands, it seems that the United States did not set aside time for education. market 。 If you go shopping in a shopping mall, just walk into a store that looks like some women's wind, when you leave, you can see a few words of Metersbonwe from the brand name above the lintel. You may be surprised. "Oh, this is the United States." "The consumer obviously has not adapted to the new brand image, which is replaced by the way of opening a new store on the side of the brand spanformation, and the image of the dark blue sign shop for more than 20 years has been flush out. And we have to say that it's hard for consumers to read names of Novachic, HYSTYL and NEWear.

Most of the five brands will be opened in the form of a collection store, with a small number of independent brand stores, and the main channel for the shopping center. The combination of collection shops is not necessarily, occasionally NEWear and ASELF, or N vachic and HYSTYL. Although a member of the United States union store in Beijing, told the interface news: "there are not many such stores in Beijing." But according to the introduction, since the beginning of 2016, the new shop has begun to work. So far, hundreds of stores and style shops have been opened in many cities across the country. In November 2017, the 10 stores opened on the same day. In December 23rd, 100 stores in the United States and the United States opened their businesses on the same day. They were all new image shops.

At present, these new brands are at least refreshed in consumer cognition. On the day when Qingxiu Wanda store opened, consumers once told the Union Network: "the new shop of Smith Barney feels like visiting the UNIQLO or ZARA, or even having an illusion of MUJI." As for the public comment, a netizen also left a message saying: "as I said before, I was re planted by the new series in the United States. When I pass by, I should go in." "

However, such practices still have risks. Unlike the multi brand matrix of other brands, the five brands of Smith Barney have only differentiated their styles from their styles, but they have not made much difference in pricing. Pricing hundreds of dollars means that the United States is still wandering in the low-end market, which is not consistent with the consistent strategy of multi brand layout.

In the interview with the interface, Wang Xing, President of Brandz global president of WPP, the world's largest communication group, has said that a stylized brand will become more stylized brand and become more niche. This means that the market share of the brand will continue to be sold and there will be a risk of dilution of the brand. Therefore, the brand combination should pay attention to the difference of style, and the difference between the pricing of different product lines. When the product is too dependent on the product, the extension ability of the fashion category is very limited.

When distributing many brands, some companies choose to achieve their goals through acquisitions. For example, after the successive acquisition of high-end brands such as Laurel, Ed Hardy and IRO in Shenzhen, the group took the American designer brand VIVIENNE TAM in August last year to fill the blank of high-end fashion matrix. The Shandong Ruyi group, which has just acquired Swiss luxury brand Bally, has also adjusted its brand matrix organically. Previously acquired French light luxury group SMCP has been listed, and its performance has maintained steady growth, laying the foundation for later acquisition of Bally.

On the other hand, several local brands choose the internal incubator brand like the United States. The brand matrix built by Jiangnan cloth clothing since 2005 is now relatively mature, including JNBY, CRUQUIS men's wear, JNBY by JNBY children's wear, less professional women's wear, Pomme de Terre teenage dress, JNBY HOME household products, the income growth rate has been maintained above 20%, and the result has exceeded the average level of the industry. Analysts have said that in the case of the main brand South China's cloth clothing revenue has accounted for more than half of the company's scope, the group's subsequent increment will depend on the development speed and influence of the sub brand. From designer brand to listing group, the precise style of Jiangnan cloth clothing for target consumer groups makes customer loyalty high and not easy to lose. Even the sub brands with different positioning share the same brand temperament.

Zhou Chengjian felt that it was relatively smart to integrate other brands from the market, and he was foolish to do anything from beginning to end. But as a tailor, Zhou Chengjian said he still felt that he had more sense of achievement and more emotion to build "from scratch and stitch". "But the results will be slower."

In fact, the new brand of hatching is not a new strategy for Smith Barney. Ten years ago, it had operated many sub brands through different brands, including ME&CITY, Kei, MooMoo and AMPM, and the electricity supplier's "state purchase network".

The high-end city brand ME&CITY launched at the end of 2008 is the best performing brand at the present stage. If time goes back to ten years ago, it can be said that this brand also represents the era of the 1980s and 1990s after entering the society. The year of ME&CITY is the same year that the United States landed in the capital market. When holding money, ME&CITY chose the Male No.1 Miller on the other side of the city, and at that time, his endorsement fee was much higher than that of Jay Chou. 　　

Miller filmed ME&CITY for advertising

If not, consumers will see that ME&CITY's ads on TV will be regarded as a MV or a Hollywood blockbuster. There is no product introduction in the entire advertisement, only a simple ME&CITY logo is flashed at the end. The lens of the movie's effect is different from any simple "sell" advertisement, which allowed the young people to think which international brand should enter China at that time.

But in general, ME&CITY has been very painful for ten years, but in 2017, it made a great mention of its performance in 2017. It is not known whether the big cousin Liu Wen took over the endorsement in August 2017. In all stores and stores in China, ME&CITY has gained two digit growth. Zhou Chengjian thought that perhaps his own way was too stupid and inefficient, which made the brand pay too much in the early stage. Today, the brand image is gradually forming.

The launch of ME&CITY originated from the bottleneck encountered by the group. In 2008, the sales volume of the US bond reached 4 billion 473 million yuan, and the enterprises that were about to enter the 5 billion threshold had already seen the ceiling. Although the cognition and acceptance of the United States and America were higher among the original target audience groups, but with the increase of the consumers' age, they gradually walked out of the campus, and their consumption habits and preferences had changed dramatically. Of course, any enterprise is faced with the problem of how to choose along with the growth of consumers. Some enterprises choose the strategy to accompany the growth of consumers, while others maintain the same brand positioning and wait for the next batch of consumers who grow up. 　　

Liu Wen endorsement ME&CITY

Beyond ME&CITY, Children's wear MooMoo and Kei were also in the group's brand matrix. The birth of Kei was launched in 2001 before ME&CITY. According to Zhou Chengjian, in 2003, the brand had already sold several hundred million sales, but in the course of development, the company had "frozen" in order not to affect the development of the main brand, only three years ago it restarted the brand.

"After the restart, through market research and various aspects, we found that the location of Kei and Muji is the same." Zhou Chengjian told the interface news, which means that in 2001, they had already discerned the popularity of this style in the market. The company had delayed the development of brand strategy in advance of the concept.

AMPM is the brand new online menswear brand launched by the United States in 2010 when it launched its electricity supplier website "Bong buy network". However, the website was aborted in just 9 months, and it was forced to stop. The United States decided to hand it over to its controlling shareholder, and so did AMPM. Judging from the current brand matrix, Zhou Chengjian believes that only two brand images of Metersbonwe and ME&CITY have matured and solidified. "The awakened Kei is still in the process of improvement, and it takes one to two years to complete the spanition from quantitative to qualitative. 　　

　 Way to correct mistakes

So what is the difference between the brand new fission and the previous one?

In essence, the group's latest five brands have the same original intention and the first layout of multiple brands. Only in the context of further segmentation of the market, the United States is also further subdividing its own style. The youth style is no longer a novelty, but in fact, the failure of the youth clothing brand is not only in China. A&F is also a brand that has undergone three years of spanformation. After realizing the pursuit of freshness, young people find it no longer possible to attract the millennial generation with single style and marketing strategy. In 2015, Piper Jaffray, a US investment bank, published a survey on us youth consumption behavior. It shows that Nike and Ralph Lauren are their favorite clothing brands - the tastes of young people have diversified and personalized.

The same problem is also faced by the United States. The tastes of consumers who are attracted by brands are constantly changing and have more and more independent aesthetic factors. The popularity of the market seems very difficult to control their purchase decisions.

What's different is that, unlike the past, "what is missing and what to add", the mood of the United States is more urgent, because the market's speed of iteration has far exceeded that of the United States. Since Zara entered China in 2007, fast fashion, led by Zara, H&M and UNIQLO, has completely changed the fashion market structure. At that time, the US state still hovered in the hesitation of establishing and adjusting its sub brands, but did not realize that in a few years, its loyal customers had been robbed by fast fashion.

According to the latest 2017 financial report released by Smith Barney, the company achieved a revenue of 6 billion 473 million yuan, a decrease of 0.71% over the same period last year, a profit of -3.19 billion yuan, a decrease of 303.03% over the same period last year, and a net profit of -3.06 billion, a decrease of 945.81% over the same period last year, when the company was already in a state of continuous loss. The United States still needs to seize consumers in the shortest possible time.

Over the past few years, the problems accumulated by the United States and the United States have been manifold. One of the views is that the problem of excessive expansion, like the previous announcement of the delisting of BELLE, they all grew up in 1990s by local brands, the blooming Street store is the most common format, and the huge and complex retail store network has laid hidden troubles for the future.

Fast fashion brands have also adopted the practice of opening stores widely, and even the United States even used Zara as a benchmark. Zara's physical stores are all direct outlets, while Smith Barney is a long held franchise mode. Retail expert Dai Chunhua has pointed out that under the affiliate system, the United States can not learn Zara's fast fashion. Because the initiative of ordering system is in the hands of a large number of affiliate agents, a bottom-up group system is actually formed.

Since 2014, the number of stores in the United States has begun to shrink, from more than 4000 in the end of 2014 to 3900 in 2016. According to the financial data, Smith Barney's revenue dropped sharply from 9 billion 945 million yuan in 2011 to 6 billion 290 million yuan in 2015, and its net profit in 2015 dropped 396.57% to -4.3 billion yuan over the same period.

In addition, Zhou Chengjian has been betting on the Internet too much, but the method is not very suitable. In fact, it was one of the pioneers of the Chinese apparel industry who started the virtual operation and franchise business. In the 2009 year of the year, it launched the state purchase, and launched a number of functions, such as the sweep shop consumption in the physical store, the shortage of goods in one shop, the nationwide search for goods, and the replacement of online shopping lines. It has formed an application scenario characterized by traditional online shopping and with a certain O2O trial. Follow up has O2O projects such as "fan", "intelligent manufacturing" and so on. It has raised 9 billion yuan to spanform the Internet.

In April 2015, the United States went on the line with its trend electric product "fan app", and then in 2016, it spent 50 million gold in the second quarter and the third season. According to the argument at that time, the relevant person in charge believed that the target group of the two sides was highly coincident and the circle was redirected. At the same time, the group hoped that the app could convert the passenger flow and 10 million of the hundreds of millions of passengers and passengers from the 4000 stores to the platform users, and make profits by entering the brand to pick up points, and by selling various forms of cooperation with the seller.

However, the reality is not satisfactory, and the way to buy money is not a luxury. From the data shown by this APP, Adidas brand has only 116 pieces on its shelves, but its number has exceeded 90000 times. On the contrary, ME&CITY, the most popular subbrand in the United States, has nearly 4000 items on its shelves and only 70000 hits. In the two quarter, more than 1 billion 100 million of the viewing hits did not bring substantial user growth to fan app. It is reported that in March 2016, the download volume of fan app was only about 370 thousand.

In order to promote the norm, the United States has paid high operating costs. In the 2015 fiscal year, the advertising investment in the United States was about 117 million yuan.

In July last year, Zhou Chengjian told the media: "I have taken some wrong paths, taking the Internet as a mission, spending a lot of money to buy traffic, but those traffic can not stay. If we use the Internet as a tool, it is still of great value. "

Another argument is that the US bond supply chain has dragged down the electricity supplier. From the beginning, the United States mainly developed channels in the form of franchised stores. Later, in order to strengthen the control of the channels, the company started to open its own stores. However, the contradiction between the direct stores and the franchisees had not been reconciled. For example, when the franchisees hit twenty percent off, the outlets could play five to forty percent off, which made the direct stores more competitive. In addition, the United States has a specific requirement for the order quantity of the franchisee, which directly leads to the indigestible inventory pressure of the goods that cannot be sold.

In the case of the two contradictions still exist, the online discount of Bong's network is even lower than that of Direct stores, which is undoubtedly adding to the shortage of stores under the store. In the recent interview, Zhou Chengjian also said to the interface, "the company will change from the wholesale mode to the retail mode."

Wholesale mode is the habitual thought of most traditional clothing brands. Retailers in the industrial chain are upstream wholesalers and downstream customers, while wholesalers in the industrial chain are upstream producers and downstream retailers. This leads to the fact that wholesalers are not directly responsible to the terminal customers, and the control intensity is low, resulting in the disconnection between brands and consumers. At the same time, wholesalers sell a single commodity with low profits and earn money only through a large quantity of shipments.

"Online business now accounts for about 15% of the total, and there are 80%-90% market opportunities under the line." Zhou Chengjian said in an interview that the further coverage of all the emerging shopping centers under the national line is the company's first strategy, while improving online channels. This is Zhou Chengjian's decision after conducting research in dozens of cities across the country. Compared with the previous Street store in the traditional business circle, the United States began to tilt its shops to the emerging business circles. In October 2017, the United States and the United States gradually entered into cooperation with India, new town, Wanda and other shopping center systems. 　　

Ten years ago, Jay Chou endorsed the painting style of Smith Barney.

The new brand image now

　 Store is heavy

This is also the reason why Metersbonwe now focuses more on physical stores, and this decision is not just a compromise after being hit by the electricity supplier. As mentioned earlier, in 2016, the United States began planning to launch new shops. On December 23, 2017, 100 new stores in the United States brand opened at the same time. It is said that more than 160 new stores will be opened by the end of December. These stores are unveiled in a large and full style shop, covering one to five cities. According to Smith Baron's interface news, about 40% of the new stores have broken away from the traditional shopping mall's Street store form and have been stationed in the shopping centers of the emerging business circles. "From July 2017 to the present, the brand and shopping center channels have reached about 200 thousand square meters of intent to sign the area, and in the first half of 2018, new shops will be opened."

Similarly, there are Taiping birds and Jiangnan cloth clothes. In September 2016, Taiping bird's first collection shop opened in Changsha, and the 1300 square meter area was the three main brand of women's wear, men's wear and children's clothing. Its annual report 2016 pointed out that in 2017, the brand collection store of core cities will be promoted, and the national marketing network will be continuously promoted. There will be about 600 net sales outlets, of which there will be a net increase of about 150, with a net increase of about 450.

YOUNGOR also opened nearly 3000 square meters of business in Wuxi in the same month, focusing on its five major brands YOUNGOR, MAYOR, GY, Hart Schaffner Marx and HANP. YOUNGOR also put forward the statement that 1000 stores sold 10 million yuan in large stores nationwide. In addition, Jiangnan Buyi, La Natsu Bell and other brands are also in the shopping center layout large stores.

Zhou Chengjian said that over the past few years, the leap of Internet commerce has been enjoying the price sensitive dividend era. Now this era is over, and the future competition will revolve around brand, creativity and offline experience. "In the past ten years, the operating cost of possible online is much lower than that under the line, whether it is the cost of decoration or the cost of flow." But he pointed out that when the electricity supplier is almost saturated, the threshold of this road is also rising. "The cost of digital marketing is higher and higher, especially the traffic cost, so there is no difference in cost between online and offline." After a round trip, Zhou Chengjian realized that the competitiveness of products and brands is the core. "Ten to twenty years ago, the brand may still be able to sell clothes through popularity, but today, it can only attract people's popularity through commodity value."

Zhou Chengjian found that consumers have become mature and can not achieve sales by relying solely on "spokesperson". In the past, the United States alone spent nearly half of its expenses on behalf of its spokesmen. The flower band, Aaron Kwok, Jay Chou, Angela Chang, Willber Pan, Lin Chiling and Li Yifeng were their spokesmen. Now, the five new brands that have fission have also invited five celebrities to speak.

In the view of Durbin, general manager of commercial real estate consulting company, the brand that grew up by the way of the United States, such as the United States, grew up by street stores ten years ago, is gradually moving closer to the shopping center. Apart from the high factor of Street store rentals, the aggregation effect of shopping can be radiated to the brand facing the aging crisis under the current shopping experience.

However, it does not mean that entering the shopping center can be carried out step by step. Nowadays, domestic shopping centers are competing for the entry of international brands, giving them the best location, decoration subsidies and low rent benefits. These are all hard to get by domestic brands, which undoubtedly increase operating costs, but also can not guarantee shop flow.

"But at the very least, the new image and the way consumers meet is what the United States should do." Durbin told the interface news. 　　

Zhou Chengjian at the press conference

ME&CITY2018 autumn winter series

In this era of change, local traditions Clothes & Accessories Almost all the similar problems remain to be solved, for example, when product innovation and marketing innovation have little effect, most of the changes involve complex management problems. As a listed family business, the founder of the older generation holds the company's control, voice and decision-making power, and how to break through the traditional pattern of self complacency is a common proposition of all traditional enterprises.

Before the listing of MP in 2008, the company suffered six large-scale personnel shocks, including 5 management departures in 1997, 19 managers leaving in 2002 and 2 vice presidents in 2004. In 2008 and 2009, senior executives quit. Cheng Weixiong, vice president of the US for 13 years, submitted a written resignation report in July 2012, and then quickly joined the "enemy" Bosideng of the US state.

At the end of 2016, Zhou Chengjian retired to the background. His daughter Hu Jiajia took over the position of chairman of the board of directors, and before the execution of Hu Jia Jia, the senior management of the state of United States had almost left. But judging from the current shareholding structure, Zhou Chengjian may still be the person with the most say. The prospectus of Mei Bang clothing shows that before its initial public offering, its controlling shareholder is Shanghai Huafu Investment Co., Ltd., holding 540 million shares of the company, accounting for 90% of the total shares of the company. Clothes & Accessories Controlling shareholder. Among them, Zhou Chengjian directly owns the 70% stake of the issuer's controlling shareholder's Chinese clothing, and owns a 90% stake in Shanghai's Kee Ge, another shareholder of China clothing and investment. The two shareholder of Smith Barney's clothing is Hu Jiajia, holding 60 million shares of the company's stock, holding a 10% stake and holding a 10% stake in Shanghai's Kee Ge, a Chinese garment investment partner. After initial public offering of 70 million shares, the proportion of investment in Chinese clothing was diluted to 80.6%, while Hu Jiajia was diluted to 8.95%. Zhou Chengjian still occupies an absolute leading position in American Apparel.

In June 22nd last year, Zhou Chengjian once wrote micro-blog: "wake yourself up and return to your original heart. Don't make a mess of yourself." The word "toss up" is in the words. When the innovation of the United States has become a trial and error, the elder brother in this clothing enterprise always needs to work hard to recover the deserted main business again.

In April 18th, Smith Barney held third brand promotion reviews in Shanghai. At the same time, it also released a series of ME&CITY2018 autumn and winter products. Zhou Chengjian stressed at the scene that the company began to achieve positive growth in October 2017, reversing the negative growth situation in the past five years, and correcting the past mistakes is the top priority of the company, making up the detours in the three aspects of brand, product and retail.

As for the 2018 first quarter financial report released by Smith Barney, the group's corrective action has been effective. From January 2018 to March, Smith Barney's clothing business income was 2 billion 178 million yuan, and net profit was 50 million 406 thousand and 700 yuan, up 30.12% and 74.21% respectively over the same period.