Nike And Zara Have Set Targets And Ambassadors. Why Are Green Fibers Favored By Famous Brands?
The fashion of the fashionable clothing industry, which is already gorgeous, is only able to integrate the "green" into the real world.
The "green" connotation of the garment industry depends largely on the green fiber material in the upstream link.
Against this background, green development has become one of the most important directions in the chemical fiber industry. In this process, the green fiber certification has become an important starting point.
Since the launch of the work, a green wave has been set up in the textile industry chain to attach importance to R & D and production of green fibers and increase the application of green fibers.
Awareness of application of environmental protection materials in downstream enterprises awaken
There are 3 main categories of green fibers, namely, recycled fiber.
Regenerated fiber
), bio based chemical fibers and raw liquor coloring chemical fibers.
The process of research and development and production of green fibers is an important embodiment of the practice of green development in the chemical fiber industry.
From the perspective of the whole industry chain,
Green fiber
The value will ultimately be reflected in the wide range of applications in downstream weaving and terminal brands.
A number of internationally renowned brands have already taken the lead in this regard.
Nike, Adidas and other international sports brands have been very fond of recycled fiber in green fibers these years.
They are increasingly promoting the use of recycled polyester fiber made of sports shoes, sportswear and other products to the market.
Moreover, the retail prices of these products are generally higher than those made from native fibers.
Nike released the "2016/2017 financial year sustainable development industry report" shows that in fiscal year 2017, Nike 75% of footwear and clothing products used recyclable materials, mainly recycled polyester fibers.
Nike's FlyKnit series shoe upper is made of recycled polyester fiber.
Not only are sports brands, but also the global fast fashion brands represented by ZARA and H&M are paying more and more attention to selecting green raw materials in the upstream supply chain.
According to the target set by H&M, it is estimated that by 2030, the raw materials used by the brand will achieve 100% cycle regeneration or sustainable development.
A person in charge of ZARA brand Shanghai branch also briefed reporters that there was some information asymmetry between retailers and raw materials suppliers, but now that brands are facing a longer supply chain, they hope to strengthen docking with the well done upstream enterprises. Purchasing green materials is an important part of them, hoping to build a responsible brand value chain system.
In China, some retail brands with strong sense of social responsibility have begun to try to do so.
The 31st degree (China) company, headquartered in Jinjiang, Fujian, is one of the leading sporting goods retail enterprises in China.
In 2017, its turnover was 5 billion 158 million 200 thousand yuan, an increase of 2.7% over the same period, with a gross margin of 2 billion 156 million 400 thousand yuan and a gross profit margin of about 41.8%.
Among them, clothing sales accounted for about 38.5% of its total turnover.
In order to enhance the ability of product innovation, in recent years, the 31st degree clothing category has made great efforts in technology, technology content, function and quality, and began to try to use environmentally-friendly fabrics.
Environmental protection fabric
Many of the characteristics are given by green fibers.
Tian Youru, director of material planning and development of 31st degree (China) Limited, told reporters that sports brands are paying more attention to the use of environmental protection materials.
Over the past few years, 360 degrees have gradually begun to dye recycled fibers and bio based fibers with raw liquid.
At present, 360 degree is considering how to form a closed loop from the aspects of "raw material weaving dyeing finishing garments manufacturing", integrating resources and industrial chain, and truly achieving green environmental protection.
However, Tian Youru pointed out some practical problems to be improved.
For example, in the process of using environmentally-friendly materials, the environmental protection dyestuff dyeing belongs to low temperature dyeing, but it will encounter some problems in the later stage treatment, which limits the use of this material.
As for the coloring fibers of raw liquid, there is a quantitative problem in the proofing stage. In terms of hand feeling, there is a certain difference between the fabrics made from coloring fibers from raw liquid and conventional dyed fabrics.
"If these problems can be solved effectively, the application of green materials in the downstream will be greater."
Tian Youru said.
Lufeng weaving dyeing
Ltd. is one of the most famous shirts manufacturer in China.
Zhong Weihao, the design director of the company, said that the company is providing green services to consumers through the four in one mode of suppliers, manufacturers, brands and sales teams.
Ecology, environmental protection and health are not only the advocacy of the state, but also the needs of downstream customers.
At present, the company is developing dyed fabrics and recycled polyester fabrics to meet the needs of customers.
In practical application, Zhong Weihao also raised the same problem as Tian Youru.
"There is also a quantitative problem in the use of raw liquor coloring fibers.
Next, we hope to expand the market of green and environment-friendly products through various efforts.
Zhong Weihao said.
Strengthening the guidance of domestic popular ideas is crucial.
Whether the clothing and clothing products that use green fiber can be accepted by the market or consumers?
Previously, due to multiple factors, domestic consumers had some misunderstandings about recycled recycled chemical fiber products in green fibers. It is even more unclear about the value and significance of buying and using green materials for clothing and home textiles.
Zhao Qingzhang, consultant of Limited by Share Ltd of the Chinese Academy of textile science, lamented: "recycled fiber is mainly used for filling materials. In the past, it was a synonym for medium and low-grade products, but now, the recycled fiber industry is not the original situation."
This means that, next, we should strive to expand the application and sales market of green fibers in domestic apparel and home textiles, and how to gather more forces to make people understand more about green fiber and better understand the significance of purchasing green fiber products.
Zhao Qingzhang said, now the raw fiber can do the product regenerated fiber can do.
From the point of production, recycled fibers need to be processed at high temperatures for about a few hours or 300 degrees Celsius. Bacteria can be eliminated completely. The unsafe factors on waste bottles and waste textiles will not be brought into the fiber.
In addition, recycled fiber production enterprises continue to upgrade equipment, which also makes the products more high-quality, safer and greener.
"Green fiber products are trustworthy. Consumers can completely dispel worries about the quality and safety of recycled fiber products, and feel free to buy products with green fiber labels.
Those products that are certified by green fiber labels are sold at a higher price than the original ones. Many well-known international brands are customers of China's regenerated fiber enterprises. This shows that the quality of products in China's recycled fiber enterprises is clear.
Moreover, the certification process of green fiber marks is very strict, including the whole process of raw material procurement, process and so on, which can ensure the quality of recycled fiber.
Zhao Qingzhang emphasized.
As Zhao Qingzhang said, the foreign consumer market has long been ahead of this.
For this reason, Yu Xinjian, the chief engineer of Zhejiang beauty new materials Co., Ltd., which has long been exposed to famous sports brand customers from abroad, is deeply touched.
When it comes to the question of why the beauty of new materials has such a strong motivation to continue to expand, he replied, "our company has been working with many internationally renowned sports brands for many years. In cooperation with our customers, we have found that these brands themselves have formulated a sustainable development plan.
They hope to increase the amount of polyester fiber without increasing carbon dioxide emissions, so they gradually increase the purchase amount of recycled fibers and raw liquid coloring fibers.
The growing demand of downstream customers has made the confidence of the new material continue to expand.
And where does the development confidence of these foreign sports brands come from? Of course, it comes from their consumers' recognition and purchasing power for green textiles.
However,
domestic market
Consumer awareness is also changing.
On the one hand, with the general promotion of consumption concept, domestic consumers are paying more and more attention to the series of green products.
On the other hand, in the great wave of green development, more public organizations and platforms began to focus their attention on the emerging materials industry with green and environmental value, and began to pay more attention to the industry and guide the public concept.
For example, in the evening of June 4th this year, CCTV's 2 set of "economic information broadcasting" column broadcast a special report on "difficult to recycle old clothes", which is undoubtedly a good "science popularization".
Moreover, some domestic brands themselves are also strengthening the guidance of consumers.
"Many consumers do not realize that environmental protection is related to themselves in the process of buying clothes, so they hope to continue to increase their guidance to consumers."
Tian Youru said.
Green fiber is related to sustainable development of textile industry
Green fiber logo certification is directed by the Ministry of industry and consumer products industry and implemented by China Chemical Fiber Industry Association.
At present, a total of 21 enterprises in China have obtained green fiber label certification.
He Yanli, vice president of China Chemical Fiber Industry Association, pointed out that chemical fiber currently accounts for 80% of the total textile fiber processing in China, with an annual processing capacity of about 50 million tons, while the output of China's chemical fiber accounts for about 70% of the world's total chemical fiber output.
The volume of China's chemical fiber industry is so large that its green development is directly related to the sustainable development of the textile industry and even the national economy.
Moreover, in the chemical fiber products, petroleum products account for about 90%, while petroleum is non renewable resources, and petroleum based chemical fiber products are not easy to be degraded in nature. Therefore, the problem of green and sustainable development of the chemical fiber industry must be solved.
The green fiber label certification is aimed at effectively promoting the green development of the chemical fiber industry.
The Zhejiang Jin Xiaxin Mstar Technology Ltd, which has been focused on making coloring fibers for raw liquids, has passed the first batch of certification.
Shen Dongmei, director of the company's executive branch, said that the company made nearly 20 years of coloring fibers in the raw liquor. Its products were widely used and customers were relatively high-end. At present, the demand for green fibers for fabrics and home textile enterprises is relatively large.
The oil additives used by the company are all environmentally friendly. The production process also emphasizes environmental protection. Some green manufacturing schemes have been formed and the certification system has been continuously improved.
In 2018, the company focused on the design, production process, marketing and other aspects of the formation of an integrated program.
"Our company is trying to expand the publicity of green fibers in downstream customers, requiring salesmen to communicate with customers and explain to customers.
At present, some customers even put forward the concept of green fiber customization.
Next, the company hopes to influence more downstream customers, so that they will pay more attention to green fiber.
Shen Dongmei said.
The new material is made from waste textiles, which is completely decomposed by chemical method. The raw material can be reduced to a new polyester fiber. In the process, pigment, color and impurities can be removed. The quality of the regenerated polyester product produced is comparable to that of the original polyester.
Yu Xinjian pointed out that the certification of green fiber marks is an honor and a better incentive for enterprises.
Next, from the production to the post industry chain, the company will cooperate with downstream brands, and it should better reflect the green from the perspective of environmental protection, production and industrial chain.
In the process of production, the company will increase technological innovation and expand production capacity this year. It will also focus on the introduction of environment-friendly non antimony catalyst regenerated polyester products.
Yangzhou Tian Fulong science and technology Fiber Co., Ltd. has 17 regenerated fiber production lines, with an annual capacity of about 200 thousand tons. Its regenerated colored polyester staple fiber has also been certified by green fiber label.
Chen Jian, deputy general manager of the company, said: "we found that the demand for recycled fiber from downstream customers increased year by year.
In the past, there were some misunderstandings about recycled fiber in the society, but the company implemented strict and higher standards, developed high standard and high quality products, and gained more recognition through continuous breakthroughs and customer promotion.
So, what is the next key development direction of green fiber logo certification and certification enterprises? For this, he Yan Li said: "we need to formulate relevant standards of green fiber as a basis for evaluating whether an enterprise can join the certification. The enterprises that produce green fiber dimension should constantly improve their technology and technology, make the products richer, save energy and reduce consumption level." we should increase the intensity of the dissemination and promotion of green fibers, so that more extensive groups of people in the society and the upstream and downstream enterprises will understand and approve more green fibers. We should continue to expand the ranks of certified enterprises, expand the scale of certified enterprises, and actively promote the use of green fiber hoist brands in home textiles, clothing and other downstream brands. "
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