It's Enough To See This One.

　　 Fabric is undoubtedly the most important part of a suit. Also The first thing to consider when choosing a suit is to consider. It can decide the grade of suits most directly. The fabric is not enough, even if there are good craft, too many handwork and suit can not be advanced. Now, let's look at the classification and selection of fabrics.

Although there are many factors in the quality of the materials used, it is now decided that the fabric price is mainly in the place of origin. The prices of domestic fabrics and imported fabrics vary greatly. The imported fabrics are mainly concentrated in Italy and the United Kingdom. The world's top suit fabrics such as: DORMEUIL, Scabal, HOLLAND&SHERRY, CHARLES CLAYTON, these four are the long history and quality wool manufacturers in the UK. Ermenegildo Zegna, LORO PIANA, VITALE BARBERIS, HOLLAND&SHERRY, and so on, these are giants of wool production in Italy, and also the benchmark of wool quality.

The high-end brand of shirt fabric is THOMAS MASON, Switzerland Alumo, Italy MONTI, LEGGIUNO, FERNO and so on. A custom shop has more than a few suits and shirts. It is basically a professional custom shop. Usually, these factories have strict requirements on the professional standards of customized stores. Only when they reach the corresponding level will they be authorized to use their own fabrics and trademarks.

> pure wool worsted fabric < <

Woolen fabric refers to fabrics made of wool or wool and polyester, viscose, acrylic and so on. Worsted wool is mainly made of pure wool and can be mixed with a certain proportion of wool type chemical fiber or other natural fibers. It is made of combed equipment and processed by many carding, merging, drafting, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing.

It has the characteristics of good elasticity, softness, unique velvet and crease resistance of animal hair, and it also has warmth retention when it absorbs moisture or sweat. Worsted fabrics made of worsted fabrics have the characteristics of durable and durable, no deformation for a long time. They are especially dignified, smooth, elegant, crisp, full of touch, classic style and natural luster due to Aurora free.

The so-called worsted and woolen fabrics should be interpreted from two angles: one is fiber and the other is weaving. The worsted fabric is generally 32 or 40, and the higher the number of wires is, the more smooth the fiber is, the less the joint is, the higher the natural density, the better the wearability and the comfort. The other is weaving, the worsted weaving machine used for worsted fabrics to prevent fiber breakage and high density, and the fabric of the woollen fabric has more joints, easy to break, natural abrasion resistance and poor density.

Pure wool worsted fabrics are mostly thin in texture, smooth in surface and clear in texture. Guan Ze is naturally gentle and has a bleaching pass. The bones are soft and elastic. After cling to the fabric, it is released without wrinkles. Even a slight crease can disappear in a very short time.

　　 Identification of pure wool fabrics

Pure wool fabric has a natural and soft color and good thermal insulation. It is the first choice for making high-grade suits and overcoats. But now the number of imitation wool fabrics is increasing. With the improvement of textile technology, it has reached the level that most customers can not distinguish. But the color, warmth and handle are far less than that of pure wool fabrics. Here are some ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your selection. clothing And fabric reference.

　 1. sense of touch

Pure wool fabric is usually smooth, and its long wool fabric feels soft and smooth, and it has a tingling sensation on the back.

2. look at the colour and lustre.

The color of pure wool fabrics is natural and soft, bright and without obsolescence.

3. look at elasticity.

Guard the object with your hands, then let go and see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabric has high resilience and can be restored to its original state quickly.

4. combustion identification

Take a bunch of yarn and burn it. Pure wool fiber smells like burning hair. The smell of chemical fabric is like burning plastic. The harder the particles are, the more chemical fibers they have.

5. single root identification

The hair of all animals is scaly under microscope. If it is a long wool fabric, it will move up or down if you take a picture of a mammoth.

> > wool < <

Wool usually refers to woollen fabrics. Wool fibers are formed by the coalescence of protein molecules. The outer surface has a unique structure of tightly horny scales, which is tightly covered. This sheet structure is very small. Its advantage is to prevent dirt from infiltrating into fibers and not to stain easily.

　　 The reason for wool producing bright light

1. the surface of the wool fiber is partly worn by the cuticle layer.

2. dirt and dirt are rubbed lightly in the weave groove, which makes the surface of the fabric slip into the sheep, causing regular refraction of light and bright light.

　　 Method of removing light

1. the bread can be twisted into powder and pressed with iron.

2. pickling: soak the glacial acetic acid solution with a concentration of 3-5% and a temperature of 50 degrees for 3-5 minutes, then rinse it with clean water, and white vinegar can also be used.

3. wash with a brush.

> wool and polyester blended fabric < <

Wool blended fabric, that is, cashmere, polyester, spandex, rabbit hair and other fibers mixed with wool fabrics. Wool and polyester blended fabric, the sun, the surface has a flash point, the fabric has a stiff feel, better elasticity, cling to the fabric after loosening, almost no wrinkles.

> wool and viscose blended fabric < <

The luster is dull. Worsted hands are rather weak, and woolen fabrics are loosely felt. This kind of fabric is not as elastic and smooth as pure wool and wool polyester, wool and fine blended fabric. It is made of viscose and artificial wool as raw material. It has a dull luster, weak handle and a lack of sense of sense.

The strength of yarn extracted from fabric is obviously lower than that in dry condition, which is an effective way to identify viscose fabric. In addition, this kind of wool like fabric is hard and thick after wetting. With the progress of science and technology, wool like products have also improved in color, touch and durability.

> purified fiber imitation wool < <

In general, synthetic fibers are used as main materials, artificial fibers or colored silk as auxiliary threads, some with synthetic fibers as main materials, and suitable fabric weaves. These fabrics have two kinds of bamboo shaped and natural style. Natural style characteristics of natural fibers. The cloth is bright and bright, with good texture, good elasticity, and suitable for the public.

Chemical fiber like wool, the common feature of clothing is lighter. Recently, the rabbit hair Yarns Blended with acrylic and polyamide in the international market are made of denim, which is modeled on mohair yarn. The shirt can match the natural rabbit hair and Ma Haimao's clothing.

　 Distinguish wool from pure wool and pure wool fabric

1. different gloss

Pure wool fabrics are mostly soft and natural, less colorful, chemical fiber like wool fabrics, rich color.

2. hand feel and elasticity are different.

Pure wool fabric feels soft and slightly fluffy. It has bones, tiny wrinkles and not hard, soft springback and no rigidity.

3. after burning

Pure wool fabrics burn slowly after burning, with the odour of burning hair, black, crisp, and massive ash, and then twist into powder, and then burn near the fire, burning rapidly, flare yellow, ash with white and easily dispersed light ashes, and leaving a lump that is not easy to crumble to be polyester / sticky.

> artificial wool imitation wool < <

The British first studied protein extraction from animal glue to make artificial protein fibers. 1935 in the year of Italy, cheese was extracted from milk and made into artificial wool. Since then, some countries have successively made artificial fibers from soybean protein and peanut protein. Man made fiber is divided into two kinds: regenerated fiber and chemical fiber. The regenerated fiber is viscose fiber made from wood and grass fiber by chemical process, and chemical fiber is synthetic fiber made from petroleum, natural gas, coal and agricultural and sideline products.

according to The shapes and uses of man-made fibers can be divided into three types: rayon, artificial cotton and artificial wool.

Rayon fabric basically refers to viscose filament and short fiber fabric, known as man-made cotton, rayon and so on. In addition, it also contains some medium fiber fabrics and medium long fiber fabrics with filament and staple fibers. Therefore, the properties of rayon fabrics are mainly determined by viscose fiber characteristics.

> mercerized wool < <

　　 Mercerized wool Ordinary wool is treated by chemical treatment and physical treatment. It destroys the scales of wool fibers and makes the wool smooth and glossy by chemical reagents. It is suitable for wedding dresses. Mercerized wool is passed by wool. Textile dyeing and finishing workers The mercerizing process is used to deal with wool products.

Mercerized wool can be woven and blended with pure wool. The main features are shrink proof, machine washable and anti pilling.

Mercerized wool technology originated in the middle of 90s. It is a new dyeing and finishing technology developed on the basis of traditional wool chlorination and shrinkage prevention technology. It has a cashmere handle and a shiny silk.

> cotton and linen fiber < <

　　 Cotton and linen fiber It is a natural fiber, which is derived from the seeds of plants. The stem and leaf have many excellent qualities that chemical fibers do not possess. There are more hydrophilic genes in cotton fibers, which are good in moisture absorption, sweating, breathable and comfortable, and hemp fibers are cool, stiff and non stick.

　　 Matters needing attention: Washing temperature should not be too high. Avoid washing and twisting by force. Avoid sun exposure. Main points of ironing: wet blanching, and press the clothes from the reverse side. Disadvantages: alkali resistance, shrinkage and wrinkling.

> wool polyester fabric < <

The fabric made of wool and polyester blended yarn is the most common type of blended fabric. Fabric made of wool and polyester blended yarn. The ratio of wool to polyester blended yarn is 45: 55, which can not only maintain the advantages of wool, but also give play to the advantages of polyester.

　　 Wool polyester thin suiting Compared with woolen tweed, it has light texture, good wrinkle recovery, firm wear resistance, easy washing, quick drying, long pleat and stable size, but the handle is not as smooth as the whole wool.

Advantages: wool and polyester blended, light texture, wrinkle recovery performance is good. It is strong, wearable, easy to wash, fast dry, stable in size and durable in pleat.

Main points of washing: first soak in cold water for 15 minutes, then use general synthetic detergent to wash. The temperature of the lotion should not exceed 45 degrees Celsius. After cleaning, it can be wrung gently and placed in a cool and ventilated place to dry.

The classic custom suit is a one person edition, but the classics are never out of date. A suite of advanced fabrics. Man's suit For the wearer, it is not only the improvement of temperament, but also the taste, self-confidence, self-cultivation and self-discipline. Advanced customization Suit The value lies in the inheritance and persistence of traditional crafts. The fabric and workmanship of clothes are absolutely not pipelined. It takes time as a cost and requires us to taste and stitch with one stitch.