A Brief Account Of The Five Controversial Designers Made For This Year'S Fashion Circle.

According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, 2018

The circle is full of ups and down.

It seems that there has been a wave of resignation.

It's like Virgil Abloh.

The first black art director in history was airborne Louis Vuitton, Hedi Slimane to take over as a replacement for CELINE, and even to Raf at the end of the year in an imperfect way with Calvin Klein.

In addition to these "eight children" designers, and Supreme's James Jebbia, the street corner brand leader has won the CFDA best men's wear award.

Of course, the legendary designer is also a human being, and also like Gosha Rubchinskiy, who has been exposed to lace news for everyone to eat melon.

In short, if the 2018 fashion circle is compared to a series, then the controversy surrounding designers will be a wonderful plot to attract our chasing drama.

Well, nonsense, let's take a look at the above five controversial designers for the fashion circle this year.

James Jebbia

In planning this summary, the first thing I thought about the most controversial designer was James Jebbia.

Because in fact, in most people's eyes, the designer who created Supreme is probably not even a designer.

Time came back to the 1994 when the king of street Supreme was born. At that time, James Jebbia probably did not even think of herself as a "best men's wear designer" award in get after 24 years.

You know what I'm talking about in June this year, the American Fashion Designer Association (CFDA) annual awards ceremony was scheduled to be held in New York.

Since the beginning of 1981, the CFDA awards are regarded as one of the most authoritative awards in the field of fashion, and the emphasis is on the field of fashion.

Every year, the best men and women designers in the industry are chosen by authoritative personages. The award ceremony is regarded as the Oscars of Fashion.

In the past, the best men's wear designers were nominated like Raf Simons, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford and so on.

OK background is clear, so who won the best men's wear designer award this year? Supreme's James Jebbia.

Obviously, this is a result which is beyond everyone's expectation.

On the night of the award ceremony, James Jebbia, wearing a suit, stood on the stage with a trophy. His award-winning speech was also quite interesting: "I ve never considered Supreme to be a fashion fashion,"

Listen, people never regard Supreme as a fashion company, and do not consider themselves a designer, but they still express their gratitude to CFDA.

Indeed, for such an outcome, most people also questioned the surprise.

Even today, how successful Supreme is, it is always a street brand. Compared with traditional fashion brands, it is far fetched to design, while James Jebbia is recognized as a designer rather than a designer.

Moreover, the CFDA award is an award in the fashion industry. Although fashion and street are constantly merging in recent years, there are still some differences.

In fact, from the beginning of the CFDA nomination at the beginning of this year, this controversy has not stopped.

CFDA's CEO Steven Kolb, in the mail to voters, encourages everyone to really focus on the all-round development of talents: "We truly want the event to celebrate celebrate", "the first, the second, the third, the third, the third, the third, the right, the right, the right."

It is no longer important for James Jebbia to match such a "best men's wear designer" award. The awards reflect the times. Maybe we should think that fashion is changing and the industry is more inclusive.

Virgil Abloh

In general, Virgil Abloh has had a good year this year.

The Off-White brand of its own brand has been developing steadily, and the cooperation with Nike is still successful. In the first show of Louis Vuitton, it also handed in a passing answer.

But even so, controversy still surrounds him.

The first is the reservation of his identity as a designer. Secondly, he is a high-profile Louis Vuitton and is the first black art director in the history of this top luxury brand.

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"Some people think I'm not a designer. I agree more."

In the interview with BoF, Virgil had faced this challenge.

Many people know that Virgil insists on a famous "three percent principles", which means that it is based on classic design and changing it 3% to become something new.

Very clever design methodology, but as the "plagiarism" and "salute" are always ambiguous, some people are not buying this kind of trick.

Moreover, in the design of many Virgil handles, we can always find such a "shadow of others".

This year, a hot topic of "Virgil plagiarism" will appear on the Internet all the year round.

For example, the first sneaker designed by him at Louis Vuitton was originally too similar to the classic version 880 of Air Jordan III and sports brand AVIA.

There are also chairs designed for IKEA collaboration, and the works of "crash" home designer Paul McCobb designed in the 50s.

Anyway, compared with the Louis Vuitton, these disputes can only be regarded as "small splash".

As for the first show of Virgil in Louis Vuitton, I won't be wasting my breath here. You can read our previous articles for a complete review.

For some conservatives in the industry, they are unacceptable. Even luxury brands, once famous for their tailoring and profile, have repeatedly put down their noble posture.

It seems to them that accepting the Virgil Hype designer deviates from the traditional fashion spirit.

What's more, the lack of professional fashion education background and the short board of Virgil, which are popular by the iconic elements, are obvious in design.

But there is no doubt that the sales data of Louis Vuitton will definitely be even more beautiful. The appeal of Virgil Abloh in young people is exactly what these old fashion houses need.

And in some ways, he is redefining the position of creative director.

Gosha Rubchinskiy

Leading the fashion circle to understand Gosha Rubchinskiy designed by Russia has not only attracted many people to be fascinated by Russian printing, but also brought the former Soviet Union's political, social status and youth culture to the aesthetic system of the mainstream fashion circle.

After the 2018 autumn winter series was released in Russia's city of Yekaterinburg in the 1 month of this year, Gosha officially announced its brand name in early April through its own Instagram.

Although Gosha, who loves photography, did not stop shooting, although he launched a joint soccer series with his old friend Adidas before opening the world cup in Russia, although his new skateboard store OCTOBER was also officially opened in Moscow, all the deep fans also cherished the opportunity to buy Gosha Rubchinskiy in the last two seasons.

Naturally, there is also the voice of constant regrets, which does not understand why he chose to rush away from the peak of the brand.

But in the last regular series of Gosha, the fall of the 2018 autumn and winter sale, Gosha, who boasted of being Story Teller, passively told everyone a story that was not brilliant.

I believe you all know this, because a casting on Instagram caused the so-called pedophile accusation.

Although it is not a positive fact, it is necessary to know that in the "cardinal questions of political incorrectness", just suspected accusations will cause a great blow to the public image, which is no less destructive than sexual assault, domestic violence, drug abuse and derailment.

Think of the former Michael Jackson, which had been accused of pedophile, although the fact proved that the allegation was not valid, but that period of time had caused a lot of trouble for him, and his reputation declined.

For a time, the days when things just broke out, people who came out to blame Gosha were not in the minority. He also returned to the fashion page because of the "peach scandal". This is not what he expected.

As for what exactly is going on, we hope that our visitors will not jump to conclusions before the truth comes to the surface. At the same time, we should not deny the professional ethics of Gosha because of this suspicion.

Everything will come to an end, and it will be too late to make a judgement.

Hedi Slimane

Hedi Slimane has come out of the world and has taken over the C line in the hands of Phoebe Philo. The unexpected marriage itself is enough to startled the fashion ladies.

Of course, then Hedi Slimane's C e line first show...

Oh, no, it's CELINE (Star designers are always keen to change their brand names and change their fonts), trying to enhance their sense of existence in the fashion house and start anew with a new image. After all, they won two different reviews of the world after the first show.

Some people admire Hedi for not having forgotten the original intention, insisting on the courage of Stay True and Be Real, and not yielding to the style and aura that the predecessor has already been recognized by the industry and the market. Some say that the new CELINE of Hedi Slimane has made people angry and changed the brand style that Phoebe can hardly create. When that happens, many voices are disappointed with the endless self duplication of the Hedi, and move out the comparison chart between the old and the new one, trying to prove that he is "stalled" and questioned his ability of innovation and design.

In short, all kinds of voices poured in from all sides. The super high discussion boosted CELINE jumping out of the exclusive category of women, becoming one of the most popular fashion houses in 2018. Of course, Hedi Slimane, the "old" designer, successfully broke into the vision of the new generation of consumers.

Without accident, the men's wear line opened by Hedi for CELINE will continue the old self style. I just can't wait to know if this has been popular in the millennial fashion, whether it can be recognized again and help CELINE to open up a world in the field of men's fashion. We can only wait and see.

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Raf Simons

At the end of the year, everyone was immersed in the joy of the new year and the endless expectation for the new year. But the designer who is not in a good mood is the Belgian Raf Simons.

He was recently pushed to the top of the storm because he lost his job. Before Christmas, he officially broke up with Calvin Klein, who had been in contact with less than 2 years, and was abruptly terminated in a less respectable way. This is in sharp contrast to the trust and expectations that the high-profile group had taken and led the team to rename the American brand and change fonts.

You know, in the eyes of a lot of fashionable and industry people, Raf Simons has long been a god of God. Whether it's a personal brand of the same name, it also controls the French fashion house Christian Dior.

Even when it comes to Calvin Klein, Raf Simons also brings the European style aesthetic High Fashion style and design to the brand that originally represents light luxury, and has the Fast Fashion Fashion label. I believe this is also an important reason why Calvin Klein has been appearing prominently in the well-known buyers' stores in recent two years.

If you want to talk about the most stylish and charismatic fashion designers at the moment, I believe that Raf Simons will be the same choice for many people.

However, Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief executive officer of Calvin Klein parent company, has raised its own doubts. He honestly believes that the input and output of Raf Simons are gradually unbalanced in the creative marketing. Although his accession has brought about a substantial rise in the sales volume of most of the products sold by Calvin Klein, however, because the price of the clothing series is too high, this is beyond the consumption capacity of the original brand target group. "No matter the design fashion or the price, we have gone too fast and too far".

For the time being, we do not comment on whether this view is reasonable or not, but we have reason to believe that it is the direct cause leading to the break-up between the two sides. The reform has just begun. The PVH, which takes the short-term benefits more seriously, halted all this and unfairly dismissed Raf Simons.

In fact, Raf Simons and Calvin Klein have separated their long-standing problems in fashion circles to the public.

Under the premise of reform, it is the pursuit of long-term interests or short-term benefits. Whether the value system of the creative director can be consistently implemented by the company is directly determined by the success of the reform.

From the standpoint of both sides, group interests and designers' appeals sometimes do not agree with each other. Both applause and applause are the perfect state that can be met but can not be sought. The brand that can reach this state can be counted almost by one hand, but under normal circumstances, the direct responsible person with poor short-term performance is the creative director, and reform is not even overnight for a star designer with rich experience, let alone the familiar Calvin Klein.

The controversy over Raf Simons is mostly about the business level, not the design itself.

How to balance the relationship between the overall image and the short-term benefits in the specific brand pformation? When should the sales be conceded to the design? When should the design be compromised? This is not only a matter of consideration for Calvin Klein and Raf Simons, but also for all brands, designers, and even the vast number of consumers to think deeply.

Forget which master said before, what is always pursued or denied is not excellent, and what is really valuable is often controversial.

Only when someone loves someone to step on it is the meaning of discussion.

This principle applies to designers as well.

In other words, controversy means heat.

If there is no one willing to criticize you, then it is really mediocre.

Well, on the last day of 2019, I will no longer sum up some heavy or profound words to increase the burden of reading for everyone. I wish you a happy New Year! And let's continue to look forward to the trend of fashion in the 2019 year.

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