Ten Years Of Du Shangzhi'S "Tampering" Popular Culture Fashion KOL Kan.

Recently, there has been a challenge on #10yearschallenge on social networks, which has unexpectedly gained a large number of netizens' response.

Up to the red star, traffic KOL, down to the ordinary people, drying out their own ten years ago contrast, this "game" caused a phenomenal hot debate, no one saw the signs of its cooling down.

A few days ago, the famous street photographer, Tommy Ton, re uploaded a precious moment he recorded ten years ago to upload social software again.

The photo was frozen in Paris on January 2009 23, and the brand COMME des GAR ONS HOMME show has been in existence for ten years.

It's hard for you to imagine that this creative team, led by Mr. Kan, didn't even receive an invitation to enter the show.

But for ten years, they have become the heavyweights of the trend in Europe and the United States, which are enough to point out the brand and influence the trend of fashion.

I'm afraid not even the photo recorder Tommy Ton has imagined.

Ten years Hedong ten years Hexi

If you look back on the trend culture of the past ten years, make a summary of it, choose the most representative Fashion Figure and look at the list of candidates. You have to admit that KanyeWest is the name to be discussed at the forefront of the matter anyway.

Even with a smile on the face, Kanye West is still a behind the scenes producer of Jay-Z's album, stepping up to rapper, which is sung by music works, and has become a popular icon for every brand to be invited. Now it has been promoted to a fashion designer with personal brands.

How many "idols" are there, so that we can simply say that the brand that is easy to get on will become a popular search in social media immediately.

The immediate result is that the single product is sold out rapidly, the second-hand market price is soaring, and reseller enters the GIF mode of "lie earning".

Many unknown brands are sold for three feet after being photographed in the street.

Speaking of carrying capacity, even a lot of European, American and Japanese stars need to do their homework regularly.

Mr. Kan, who is active in different media channels, has already created multiple possibilities of exceeding the identity of musicians and designers.

As for today's Kanye West in the tidal current circle, it has to mention the buddies who gathered around him and their creative team DONDA.

They belong to different professional fields, and have independent businesses, integrate their respective resources, and then contribute to their business projects under the status of subordinate members.

Under their cooperation, Kan's fashion role has undergone a qualitative pformation. With the help of Mr. Kan's DONDA DNA, they have promoted and influenced fashion design and popular culture mode with almost all their strength. Virgil Abloh has won the nomination of several heavyweight fashion awards and steered the menswear Department of LV; Don C continues to work closely with Jordan Brand; Taz Arnold is still the forerunner of the fashion trend.

They broke into the field of vision and looked forward to tampering with fashion equations, giving birth to new chemical reactions by subsisting "subculture".

Du Shangzhi's "tampering" popular culture

"Tradition is something that has been done. In essence, I have a craze for change."

Marcel Duchamp said.

Yes, most people will turn the opposite revolution into a negative one, and even more likely to regard it as an opponent, but in fact, this criticism is neither weak nor objective.

The magic of revolution is not the imbalances brought about by the resistance, but it is the whimsy in the process of creation.

As Duchamp, the representative of the Berlin's independent magazine "032C", represented by the representative of the Virgil Abloh, broke the fashion framework of the previous generations of designers, refused to "judge the standard of creation for the first", and broke through the old order cage with the new rules, which is the additional thrust that he and DONDACrew crave for this industry: changing from the consumer to the creator, and taking the outsider posture to assess the situation and insider, not only did it not form a hindrance, but rather observed it thoroughly.

In the past 10 years, the metamorphosis of Kanye West's fashion sense of smell is like a living European and American trend of evolution.

Wearing a flannelette striped wide collar windbreaker, stepping on LouisVuitton cooperative shoes, "Don", fingertip brown leather gloves, hand-held Goyard briefcase, with the team appeared in 2009 CDG show outside the Kan, has also been ridiculed by the industry to become a showcase.

After that, Kan seemed to have gradually opened up his knowledge, which was inseparable from his edification of higher fashion.

"Tisci reinventing our concept of luxury brands is the first time we feel that high fashion can also be this street."

Speaking of people who give fashion inspiration, Kan and Virgil Abloh have mentioned more than once the influence of Riccardo Tisci, the former Givenchy design director.

Givenchy, who has been enjoying the cool and thriving in the past, has blurred the Gothic and the Street-Goth style of the tidal current boundary. He once again threw out the dialectical questions of street and fashion seeking common ground while reserving differences, and widened their vision.

Tisci inspired Kanye West to come into contact with more and more fashion styles.

Moreover, pioneer fashion designers such as Helmut Lang, Maison Margiela and Rick Owens are just like to pass the two pulse of Ren and Du for the sake of Kan, and drag him from the evolution of American hip hop to high street style.

Confusion of designer fashion and street fashion elements, highlighting the superposition of hierarchy, wandering in the daily and luxurious boundaries, which is totally different from the black culture which was once dominated by crotch jeans, oversized tops, baseball caps and sports shoes.

At that time, Kanye West did not break away from its original point of attachment to the streets. After launching a joint sneaker with Louis Vuitton, she also crossed over with the Nike to exceed the limited number of shoes.

The price of Nike Air Yeezy is much higher than that of the brand. The unprecedented strategy has also driven up the price range of high-end shoes in the future.

The shoe triggered a looting of tens of thousands of people, a large number of European and American Japanese star's upper body, resulting in an increase in the secondary market unprecedented excitement.

With Kanye West announces the establishment of DONDA team, attracting many creative talents to join, business projects scattered to cover various fields, and contributed to a series of cooperation with the top contemporary creative personages.

Among them are the surrealist painter George Condo, performing artist Vanessa Beecroft, and video artist Steve McQueen.

These projects are intuitively feedback in the album cover made by the team and artists, and Mr. Kan's especially conceptual performances. Invite Maison Margiela to reshape the stage modeling of the avant-garde experiment and stretch the tension of imagination in hip-hop music.

In addition, his strong commercial value and personal image have been pushed to the highest point in the great music awards ceremony. Many singers regard him as the forerunner of music visual art.

The multiple mashup style makes Kanye West gradually become the forefront of popular culture in Europe and America.

On the other side, the dynamic changes in the industry are accelerating the emergence of subculture.

After the completion of the Pyrex Vision project, DONDA creative director Virgil Abloh, once again set sail with brand Off-White, seeking to connect art, subculture and high fashion in the same media.

Off-White, who was born out of the world, was immediately sold by Mr. Kan's influence and trend figures.

Immediately after that, Abloh was nominated for the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Award. This indicates that the subculture really has the best chance to open the fashion doors, and more and more high street brands are ready to move.

In 2015, when Kanye West switched to Adidas and opened up its personal brand YEEZY, it followed DONDA designers, Samuel MatthewWilliams, Abloh Samuel Ross, Tour Merch project leader and so on, who were closely related to Mr. Kan, respectively, with 1017 brands, brands and brands.

Then, we found that ALYX Rollercoaster became the most plagiarized design, and ACW*'s oblique spanning became the most frequent single item in the street. The Heron Preston crane became the most fashionable body of the star.

You can not deny that this group of designers, surrounded by flowers, has quietly changed the traditional pattern of the whole industry and affected the new direction of business design.

Just like Duchamp's desire to circumvent the inherent principles and avoid the concept of "upward and upward", creation is no longer a matter of fact, and the pursuit of lifting the ban on ideology is what this group of designers value.

The success of YEEZY and Off-White has made everyone feel the impact of the American storm.

And when Virgil Abloh carries the gene of street clothing and takes the lead of Louis Vuitton as an African American designer, ideologically, it is far more than the predecessors of the Helmut Lang and Raf Simons who brought subculture to the show T 20 years ago.

"When my career in fashion design is coming to an end, I hope people can see street clothes as an art movement."

Asked whether he would worry about the change of time, and the culture of high street would be washed out by history, Virgil Abloh, now in a position to change the position of the industry, is not worried about the future. "It will be like disco, jazz and punk, because it will prevail in that generation."

You can think of Virgil Abloh as a substitute for Mr. Kan, as well as those who also come from the DONDA team and are active in fashion trends.

When the time went back to 2009, when Kan and Abloh went to FENDI for internship, they, like young students, took only a meager income of $500 a month. They got up early to drink cappuccino, and ran to print all kinds of documents, running errands stylist studio and magazine building.

It seems that there is no clue and what Mr. Kan describes as "ain 't do sh*t", but it has foreshadowed the establishment of high street brand in the future and even the famous Louis Vuitton men's clothing department.

As for future prospects, perhaps the most appropriate sentence after using Abloh in LV's first show is You can do it too.