A Group Of New Wave Designers Are Emerging In New York. Social Media Is Creating More Possibilities.
Editors who come to New York fashion week from other countries may lament that the schedule of the fashion show is considered too tight, and the fashion show of Raf Simons's Calvin Klein has been cancelled.
However, in the past week, New York's ability to meet new fashion talents is growing.
With the Eckhaus Latta, Area and Vaquera as the core of this urban alternative group, a number of new designers have emerged this week. They seem to be bold, courageous, and sometimes even face extreme political and retail environment with their talents.
When you were passing an obscure area in Canal Street last week, you might see Edwin Mohney's "Trumpetto" shoes in a temporary shop window, above the rubber mask of Trump, and dizzy high heels outside.
He played an important role in the fashion show last year at the central Saint Martin School of art and design. After his British visa expired, he returned to his hometown of buffalo, New York, a freelance designer who has always been a stage costume designer, and is also planning his next step as a fashion designer.
To maintain this momentum, Mohney rented a store from Canal Street, a buyer shop Wallplay, and set up a new exhibition area in his postgraduate series.
Wallplay plans to pform the empty storefront of the Soho center into an art exhibition area.
In the background of the discarded Kmart model, the exhibition displays the exaggerated costumes like rubber chicken, and the horizontal and horizontal Plaid corset with a clown wig as a skirt, all of which are derived from the costume culture.
"Our age does not need to be divided between fashion and fashion.
Everything is blurred, "he said.
On the other hand, Tokyo's new fashion designer, Tomo Koizumi, made its debut in a series of wrinkles made of several hundred meters of pparent hard yarn, and the whole series was inspired by comic Sailor Moon and Buddha.
His first show will always become the legend of the fashion industry, because super stylist and editor in chief of Love magazine Katie Grand pulled him out of the relative obscurity through Instagram, and offered to serve as a stylist for his fashion show. She was also the makeup team of Guido Palau's hair styling team and Pat McGrath makeup group.
A few days after the end of the conference, Koizumi was still uneasy about the sudden influx of attention and his next plan.
"I don't think I can make a ready-made garment series," he said.
"I want to make customized orders or limited edition for some stores."
For him, the American dream symbolized by the Statue of Liberty -- the Marc Jacobs T-shirt and the soft candy frill Design -- and the power of the Internet are all very fresh to him. "Of"
"I will return to New York.
The people here are very hospitable, and I feel lucky.
With social media, everything is possible, so if you do something great and push yourself into the world, good things will happen.
For Caroline Hu, it is the disillusionment of the enterprise fashion system that prompted her to launch her own brand.
Last year when she was discovered on the big show of Parsons Design Institute, she began working for Jason Wu and Tory Burch, but soon found it was not suitable for her.
"I hate everything comes down to the budget," she said. "Now that I have my own brand, I hope to spend time solving problems, and use the next three or four series to really establish my brand image.
I don't want to lose the essence of being a designer.
This is an intrinsically beautiful series: the designer has displayed nine exquisite shapes, the amazing exhibition scene is similar to the impressionist painting, and Henry Mathis's works "women in reading" is the main inspiration of this series.
Close to the observation, these dresses mimic the brushwork of painting, stacking different overlay fabrics in layers (usually using the samples discarded by her former employer) and adding delicate applique on them.
Looking at the exquisite dress hanging there, people can compare it with the brand created by Rodarte's Mulleavy sister in 2005, when they dragged a suitcase dress around New York and introduced their works to another icy magazine.
This is the beginning of a fairy tale. Today, designers can easily achieve it through Instagram private letters and WhatsApp, but Caroline Hu is eager to enjoy her works. She hopes to work slowly with only a few selected retailers.
Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina have chosen to avoid business dealings.
The artist Mark and her studio assistant Argentina participated in numerous group and personal art exhibitions. Now they have entered the fashion industry with the brand of Puppets and Puppets. They have joined a flourishing DIY brand circle. Together with the independent brands such as Gogo Graham and Lou Dallas, they have erected the middle finger on the mainstream of fashion.
Mark said, "I am really fed up with the arts because it is very limited and exclusive.
Best of all, in fashion, what we create is in the world. "
The whole series is inspired by fantasy in the game of power - they dominate their work in fantasy.
Mark said, "if people want to buy our clothes, we will wear them carefully.
Maybe we can produce a series every year.
People are formulating their own rules. This feeling is really free. "
Mark and Argentina grew up watching the Fashion TV program broadcast in the fashion show held in tents.
Now, as New York fashion week continues to split into an unexpected and more stimulating direction, a false and charming image is disappearing, and they are responding to this.
"All of us grow up in excessive consumption, as artists, producers and creators," Argentina said. "We are all struggling to fight over consumption and keep progress.
That's why we are all excited about each other.
This feeling is very good, do not feel that we have to help each other, earn more money than the other side, become the biggest voice in the room.
Source: BOF Author: Susanna Lau
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