Can The Savior Save The Past Glory Of Lanvin?

People are happy to witness the revival of the myth of luxury brands, and look forward to the emergence of the Savior.

Maybe it's just a whole new methodology.

The oldest fashion brand in France.

Blind nostalgia may be useless.

The fashion industry is changing so fast that people have to admit that they are from the soul.

The glorious age of supporting the brand is gone. Even the most talented designers need a clever business partner.

Since the frequent turbulence of the brand has consumed too much attention, the debut of Bruno Sialelli, the new creative director of Lanvin, has not raised much topic fever before the release.

But after the latest series of releases this Wednesday, the industry began to revisit the unknown designer, hoping to regain hope of this struggling old brand.

At the end of last month, Lanvin announced that the 31 year old Loewe original menswear designer Bruno Sialelli was the creative director of the brand, filling the vacancy for nearly 10 months, and also confirmed the industry rumor that began in October last year.

Previously, Mr. Bruno Sialelli and her former employer LVMH group's Spanish brand Loewe signed a competition clause.

The first show was released just a month after taking office, or that Bruno Sialelli had begun preparations for the new series before its appointment.

Bruno Sialelli is indeed a relatively unknown and untested designer.

He grew up in France Marseilles, first made costumes for his hometown opera, and then went to Christian Lacroix, Paris, to practice and study in Studio Ber ot.

Since March 2016, he joined Loewe and worked under Jonathan Anderson.

Prior to that, he also worked as a pre season designer for women in Nicolas Ghesqui re and Alexander Wang, and worked in Paco Rabanne and Acne Studios.

As the first series of Bruno Sialelli, the Lanvin 2019 autumn and winter men's wear series was released at the Clooney Museum in Paris in thirteenth Century. The site of the exhibition is quite historical. On the one hand, it traces back to the life and times of the Jeanne Lanvin, the founder of the brand. On the other hand, it is due to the specific inspiration of Bruno Sialelli's new series.

Before the show, Lanvin had emptied the Instagram posts before the appointment of Bruno Sialelli, and revealed on Instagram that the new series was inspired by a series of paintings by the French realistic painting artist G e rard Schlosser.

Unlike today's fast-paced fashion circles, G rard Schlosser's long and meticulous artwork has been highly resonated with Lanvin, the oldest luxury brand.

The women in this series of oil paintings lie in the fabric of idleness, conveying the strong atmosphere of time stagnation, unconcerned and enjoying their solitude, and also show an imaginative world and express intimate relationship between people.

It seems that no new series has been released. Bruno Sialelli has passed several pictures to easily portray the new Lanvin women who pursue individualism and slow life art.

The new series continues the long history of Lanvin French elegance and feminine beauty, especially the color selection of Bruno Sialelli from oil paintings. The fresh and elegant pre Rafael color matching has laid a relaxed and dynamic tone for the whole series.

The prehistoric animal designs designed by tattoo artists, printed patterns with stars and insects, and lattice and knitted elements in the series, have enriched the brand new design language on the basis of Lanvin brand tradition.

Compared with the cocktail dresses in the era of Alber Elbaz, Bruno Sialelli has strengthened the proportion of ready-made garments in the series, which can be seen as a manifestation of commercial intentions.

At the same time, Bruno Sialelli also revealed its ambitions for accessories through large-size soft cloth bags, printed leather handbags and other eye-catching handbags.

Before that, Lanvin had never been able to get out of the business dilemma because it had not launched a handbag.

It is noteworthy that some commentators said after the show that they saw the shadow of Loewe in the new Lanvin of Bruno Sialelli, and thought that Jonathan Anderson could not be copied for Loewe's image refurbishment and style building.

In fact, the above problems have become a new universal problem in the industry.

Before Bruno Sialelli, Italy luxury brand Bottega Veneta also chose to replace the heavy responsibility of Renaissance brand with the Daniel Lee, who was only 33 years old, had worked in Celine and other brands, but had not been officially appointed as creative director.

After the debut of Daniel Lee last week, commentators also said they saw too many traces of Celine in their design, and speculated that Bottega Veneta was intended to become the next Celine.

I have to admit that no matter whether the goal is to become the next Loewe or the next Celine, these two young designers who have never held the post of creative director have indeed failed to show the ability to copy Loewe and Celine successfully in the first show, and they are still struggling to become the next "Gucci rejuvenation Saga".

The common problem faced by the two young designers is the pformation from the designer to the creative director. The task of the former is only to make clothes, while the latter is to create a consistent and clear direction for the whole brand, and to renovate the old brand.

However, as the first show after being a creative director, Bruno Sialelli has shown its potential.

There are spectators in the brand official Instagram show live show that although Bruno Sialelli series saw some other brands of shadow, but this show is excellent enough, as the first show, it has been successful.

From the series of inspiration to the site selection, Bruno Sialelli's efforts to build a complete visual system have been seen by the audience.

His task is not to shoulder the brilliance of the Alber Elbaz era, or even to aspire to be a brand Savior, but to open a healthy business new system.

More importantly, the creative system built by Bruno Sialelli for Lanvin will pry the change of the whole brand macro system. The latter has experienced the pformation from the investor to the management level in the past year.

In February last year, Fosun international and its subsidiary formally collected Lanvin revenue.

After the completion of the paction, Fosun international became the controlling shareholder of Lanvin, and Wang Xiaolan and another shareholder, Ralph Bartel, retained a minority stake.

It is reported that Fosun's international commitment will provide 100 million euros (780 million yuan) for the brand.

Immediately after that, there was a big earthquake on the top of Lanvin. First of all, Cheng Yun, board chairman of Fosun fashion group, replaced Wang Xiaolan, a publishing giant in Taiwan, as president of the brand. After that, Wang Xiaolan, the creative director Olivier and CEO Nicolas Druz, were both out. Cheng Yun served as interim CEO, Nicolas Druz acted as general manager of Lanvin, and was responsible for the business expansion of the group in Europe.

According to the world clothing and shoe net, last August, Lanvin officially appointed Jean-Philippe Hecquet as CEO.

Previously, Jean-Philippe Hecquet was the core brand Sandro of SMCP, another French fashion company in Shandong, China. It was CEO in the core brand of SMCP, and has worked in LVMH for more than 14 years, and has rich experience in luxury fashion brand operation.

To better manage its fashion brand, Fosun fashion group announced last week that it will set up Fosun Fashion Brand Management, a new star brand management company, which will provide services for brands that are committed to developing business in the Greater China market.

At present, the layout of FCM has been basically shaped, including luxury brands Lanvin for high-end consumers, Wolford for underwear brands, and clothing brands for St.John, Caruso and Tom Tailor for young people.

In view of the cumulative growth of Fosun international in the past 5 years, the debt level has been rising by 25%.

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Cheng Yun, chairman of Fosun fashion group, said that the establishment of the management company is an important milestone in the critical stage of the development of Fosun fashion group, reflecting the group's determination to continue to expand its internal operation capability.

Obviously, Lanvin, who was bought by Fosun, did not want to repeat the "applause" situation in the Alber Elbaz era. It hoped to take the initiative in the market.

The acquisition of Lanvin is an important signal for Chinese buyers to enter the global luxury industry.

Therefore, at this new starting point, Lanvin, who occupies the strategic position of the group, has placed commercial considerations in an important position. It carries a very high commercial vision, not just the revival of old fashions.

Compared with the previous three creative directors, Bruno Sialelli is much more fortunate. Under the endorsement of new investors and new CEO, he stands on a relatively flat new starting point.

Since Alber Elbaz split up with Lanvin in October 2015, Lanvin has been unable to find creative director who can keep the brand's essence and blend into personal characteristics and create fresh vitality for the brand.

The Bouchra Jarrar, which came out a year after taking over the role of creative director, and Olivier Lapidus, the shortest serving time in history, also included 13 years of brand effectiveness. But because of the group's change of hands, it announced last November that Lucas's Ossendrijver, the creative director of men's wear, has become a victim of the turbulence in the fashion industry.

In a volatile fashion industry, there are plenty of lucky enough creative directors, but luxury brands are more willing to bet on young designers, which will push the industry's creativity down.

Since Alber Elbaz's works in Lanvin are very popular, Lanvin still has many loyal audiences who want to return to Lanvin after being changed.

And after leaving Lanvin, Alber Elbaz has never signed contracts with other brands.

But after the appointment of Lanvin Bruno Sialelli, people began to realize that brands preferred designers who had never been creative directors, and were no longer willing to find the Alber Elbaz with the highest voice and at home.

As CEO Jean-Philippe Hecquet says, youth is a necessity of fashion industry. Bruno Sialelli is unique in its era. "Understanding fashion is one thing, but understanding fashion and keeping pace with the times is another matter."

The risk of choosing young designers is that they may not be able to lead the brand right now, but their plasticity and resilience may be stronger.

Instead of becoming a brand Savior on young designers, it is better to focus on the integration of all aspects of the brand, which is why Lanvin can not get out of the mire in the era of Alber Elbaz.

After all, revival of brand is not only a renewal of creativity, but also a renewal of brand management, including product and channel strategy and business intelligence.

Luxury brand consultant H e l ne Le Blanc emphasizes that fashion is not just clothing at all times.

She pointed out that Lanvin failed to produce a burst handbag, which affected the bottom line of the brand's profits.

But its perfume business is very profitable, including its classic Arp Ge perfume, which has been licensed by perfume agent Interparfums.

Jean-Philippe Hecquet also revealed in an exclusive interview with New York Times that the brand will turn its attention to key categories, including the appointment of two heavyweight executives, handbags and footwear design, and Rethinking product line strategy.

At the same time, Lanvin is planning the pformation of the entity store in a planned way, including the pformation plan of Paris flagship store and Losangeles store.

The brand is also considering active expansion in London, New York and Milan, as well as Asia, including three new stores in Shanghai, Beijing and Hongkong.

The Shanghai store is scheduled to open at the end of this year, and the brand will be held at the Shanghai Fuxing contemporary art foundation.

The men's and women's shop in Hongkong K11 will open in October 19th.

With the intervention and strategy of Chinese commercial forces, the revival of Lanvin is not difficult, and its brand value has not been diluted in turbulence.

Guo Guangchang, chairman of Fosun Group, thinks that Lanvin represents the strength of brands that can span the century.

In his personal WeChat public address, he said, "after entering the Internet era, we find that the brands around us are much more dazzling, but the brands that can really remember are getting fewer and fewer.

The reason for this is that many brands are just a symbol on the product. Once the product can not keep up with the times, everyone will forget it.

However, there is another force in the world that can keep you in mind. In ten, twenty, or even a hundred years, it is the strength of the brand itself.

Luxury expert Serge Carreira also believes that Lanvin still resonates, especially because it is a brand that is not trapped in specific elements and images. It has plasticity and openness. What Lanvin needs now is to launch a whole new chapter, while Fosun will play an important role.

People often think that Alessandro Michele has built the "rejuvenation legend" of Gucci, but has ignored the layout of Marco Bizzarri as a brand for CEO and other links.

Similarly, the revival of the Lanvin brand is not only related to the subversive nature of Bruno Sialelli's creativity, but also the evolution of the old brand into a business system that runs orderly through new ideas and new methodologies.

Lanvin does not need the Savior.

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