CHANEL'S Anxiety: How To Advance Steadily?

Yesterday, CHANEL held the 2019 autumn and winter fashion show in the boundless snow. The show is a rare and magnificent sight in the industry. Karl Lagerfeld died only 14 days ago, leaving an unfinished CHANEL2019 autumn and Winter Conference. In a sense, it became one of the most important public relations events in CHANEL.

CHANEL2019 autumn and winter show, high waist line return, accompanied by the classic tweed coat each season, as well as a full winter holiday sense of knitted, supermodels in the Chanel holiday home before the collective appearance. This is the most natural brand advertising blockbuster, and it is also the most powerful announcement. The return of the British supermodel Cara Delevingne, and the opening of the show, is undoubtedly a human touch.

Will CHANEL's future style innovate?

Karl Lagerfeld has been in charge of CHANEL36 for a long time, and no matter how turbulent the industry is, CHANEL always has the most stable design style. After the death of Karl, many voices in the industry are worried about whether the CHANEL product design style will change.

However, in the 2019 autumn and winter release show, CHANEL showed the determination to stick to the classic design.

In the The Grand Palace ski resorts show, is still known as the creative breakthrough, is good at using the show dream scene experience Chanel. In the real exhibition of holiday resort and snow mountain background, the 2019 autumn and winter show was also officially opened.

The jewel color that used to appear in CHANEL is closely followed by a series of costumes dominated by the earth color. The high saturation down clothing and ski boots will undoubtedly be displayed in the street racket. The clothes on the model of the silver wrapped models appear with skiing illustrations, and the young pearl accessories are more beautiful.

In the eyes of the industry, the CHANEL2019 autumn winter series has subtle changes in detail, including waist lines and accessories.

The stability of the two new leaders is greater than everything else.

Since 1983, Karl Lagerfeld has been the Artistic Director of Fashion Collections of Chanel, and pushed it to the top of the luxury industry.

In the 15 days when Karl Lagerfeld was lost, the fashion media mostly stayed in the memory and memory of the great master. However, for the entire fashion industry, the death of Karl Lagerfeld indicates an important turning point in the whole history of fashion.

Karl Lagerfeld is the industry's recognized "most stable" fixed sea god needle, in the luxury industry today more radical, no rules, Karl Lagerfeld's CHANEL can always be just right.

However, in the post Karl Lagerfeld era, there are still many problems to be solved in CHANEL's future.

As early as 2010, the Karl news of retirement broke out in the industry. In an interview with Numero magazine, he said he signed the CHANEL life contract and decided who would be the most suitable successor. It is worth mentioning that at that time, Karl Lagerfeld revealed that Haider Ackermann was the right person. Subsequently, Karl denies it in public.

After Karl Lagerfeld died, CHANEL CEO Alain Wertheimer appointed the director of creative studio director Virginie Viard for the Chanel series design work for the first time.

Karl Lagerfeld once said, "Virginie is the most important person, not only for me personally, but also for the entire studio and for everything. She is my right-hand man. Even though I can't see her, we have been talking on the phone.

Viard said she was responsible for coordinating the team, contacting suppliers and selecting fabrics, and trying to assemble with Karl. "Once I receive his sketches, the process begins."

Just a few days before the launch of CHANEL2019 autumn and winter show, CHANEL once again disclosed another heir: Eric Pfrunder, Eric and Viard worked closely together with Lagerfeld for more than thirty years, and was appointed the image director of Chanel boutique (Artistic Director of Fashion), which will continue to be responsible for brand advertising, marketing, film, activities and digitalization.

Door road FASHION has previously analyzed the role of a master of the old Buddha, and CHANEL has launched dual art director. Now, with Karl's left arm and right arm escort CHANEL, to some extent, what CHANEL needs most at present is stability is greater than everything.

As for Chanel's future users, Virginie Viard also has its own sober understanding: "I think Chanel customers are more modern, younger, and more sensitive to fashion. It is worth mentioning that fashion stores have undergone great changes and new things have emerged. Chanel is a fashion company. It has a series of publications every year. I like this crazy rhythm. When you take a break, it's hard to put into such a rhythm. "

After Virginie Viard takes charge of the product line, the CHANEL of the online business will maintain new distance.

CHANEL's future anxiety: how to make steady progress?

When the global fashion media are immersed in the memory of Karl, we have to see clearly that because of the change of age, the great changes in the luxury industry system are happening now.

Once, in the top luxury industry in Pyramid, with the updating of the social media and the wave of young consumption, it appears increasingly flat and close to the people. The border between high fashion and street design is constantly blurred. Off-White founder Virgil Abloh is in LVMH group, holding Louis Vuitton men's clothing. And Virgil has previously said publicly that today's luxury is redefined, and what young people need is the concept of extravagance with them.

Driven by capital returns, the entire luxury industry can be run at a speed of light.

In early 2019, Kai Yun group announced the 2018 financial year earnings data, Marco Bizzarri and Alessandro Michele two gold partners, let Gucci once again break the industry practice, successfully entered the 8 billion euro club, direct Louis Vuitton head card status. Subsequently, Kai Yun group's ambition once again highlighted that Balenciaga had recently expressed high hopes for opening the cloud. Analysts predict that Balenciaga is expected to enter the euro 1 billion club this year.

The aggressive cloud group has made LVMH group continue to make more measures to defend its own barriers. McKinsey also predicts that the 2019 luxury industry will only slow down to 3.5%, and the luxury industry will be very anxious before the new winter comes.

However, CHANEL has been regarded as a luxury luxury card with less commercial pressure.

Without the capital pressure of listed companies, behind the CHANEL Wertheimer family, Alain Wertheimer, Gerard Wertheimer two brothers each share CHANEL50% shares. It is reported that the Wertheimer family influence is comparable to the Rothschild family in the financial field.

To some extent, CHANEL does not have much commercial return pressure.

In an interview with the New York Times earlier, Alain Wertheimer said that the Wertheimer family was cautious and low-key, and never interfered with CHANEL: "Chanel is COCO CHANLE, Karl Lagerfeld, and every work of CHANEL, creators, not vadmole."

Karl Lagerfeld once described his relationship with the vadmor family: "in the whole career, there is an extraordinary person, that is Alan Vader Moore Alain Wertheimer. If it hadn't been for him, I would have been unable to work. He was supporting me 100 percent. Therefore, I can create freely, even if I have conflicts with politics and business.

However, in the middle of 2018, CHANEL was the first tier brand of luxury industry, and for the first time in 108 years, it made public earnings data. The industry commentary pointed out that CHANEL was forced to disclose its earnings abroad under the pressure of industry. According to the financial report, total CHANEL sales in 2017 amounted to $9 billion 620 million, an increase of 11% over the previous year, operating profit of $2 billion 690 million, and a total of $1 billion 460 million in marketing and advertising.

It seems that although Gucci has entered 8 billion dollars a year, CHANEL is still close to $9 billion 620 million. According to the LVMH group's earnings report, it never showed detailed data of its brands, but industry analysts speculated that Louis Vuitton was between 8 billion and 10 billion. And Louis Vuitton, CHANEL and Gucci form the leading TOP3 of luxury industry.

However, LVMH and Kai Yun's two big groups go hand in hand, and there are frequent innovations in the luxury industry. In order to create greater business returns, creative directors of major brands are constantly changing.

Since Alessandro Michele became the creative director of Gucci, making it a successful innovation model, creative director means the "gold lettered signboard" of luxury brands. Replacing the creative director symbolizes the beginning of innovation. Richard Tisci went to Burberry from Givenchy, and from then on, she launched the tide brand Buberry; Hedi Slimane took charge of the new Celine, giving it a brand-new look. Dior spanfers Haider Ackermann to Berluti, and then opens the era of Dior Jones for Kim Jones.

In contrast, CHANEL appears to be more stable.

On the one hand, the Wertheimer family has less business anxiety. On the one hand, it has the stability of Karl Lagerfeld. Although CHANEL garments change little every season, they have been firmly in the position of handbags, cosmetics, perfume and other business lines.

For CHANEL, turbulence and change need to be cautious. However, under the tide of the times, how to "change constantly" is a topic that needs to be considered.

People in the industry say that the most terrible thing about Chanel that has lost Karl is not change, because its continuity is the foundation. However, without Karl, how can the design soul of CHANEL continue? How can the new successor lead CHANEL to embrace a new era after stabilizing the situation?

When luxury symbols and consumption concepts change, how can they resonate with young people through product design through marketing means? For CHANEL, the most fortunate thing is that double C logo itself symbolizes the value and social status of traditional luxury goods. However, in the luxury industry, black swan events continue to happen. To Paris's centralization is happening now. CHANEL needs an iron hand to perpetual perpetual motion. We hope that Virginie Viard will be chosen by history.