"Little Fat" Alber Elbaz Wants To Return To The Design Market And There Is New Movement.
"The most understanding woman designer", the most popular "little fat man" in fashion circle Alber Elbaz has recently had the "comeback" movement. It has been four years since he left Lanvin.
Little fat will collaborate with Italy brand TOD 'S for a capsule series to make shoes.
It's just a little cooperation. It's not the little fat girl's best suit. The fans' enthusiasm is afraid to fail again.
Even in the big fashion houses, designers are often used to ride lanterns, while little fat people have been working in Lanvin for 14 years.
He and his boss Wang Xiaolan seemed very sentimental in the first years. Who could have thought of the embarrassment of breaking up, and Lanvin was in a quagmire.
This paragraph is the enduring gossip of fashion circles.
In the past four years, "the little fat man has returned to Lanvin" is the most dread dream of both fans.
Little fat man doesn't have full time job at present. Is Lanvin impossible to break up?
In terms of business logic, chubby is an idealistic designer. He has obsession with high fashion and is not in tune with Lanvin today.
01
Where did the fat man go in the past four years?
In 2001, the title of the time was "Wang Xiaolan, a strong woman in Taiwan newspaper". She bought several Lanvin that she had changed hands and mismanaged. She was the Israeli designer Alber Elbaz, who was known by us, and asked him to carry the women's clothes.
It's almost a legend. Wang Xiaolan compares Lanvin to "Sleeping Beauty", while the little fat man really plays the prince, a kiss to wake her up, and the fashion house that is on the verge of collapse has revived.
The two group left a group photo of "a friend's voice is hard to find", and little fat has indirectly held 18% of the company's shares.
Unexpectedly, a fierce conflict broke out between the two sides in 2015, which is said to be a contradiction of business philosophy.
As a result, Wang Xiao Lan, a tough character, fired the little fat man.
At the time of the boom, many employees of the company petitioned for the boss to invite the little fat man to come back.
Wang Xiaolan's personality was most vividly displayed in the process of Lanvin's sweeping mergers and acquisitions. She refused the Japanese, nor did she win the rumors of the Middle East people. No one knew what kind of way she had gone through.
A month after leaving Lanvin, the little fat man who was once away from social media opened his personal Instagram and set off a small corner of his life.
Travel, dinner, party and occasional small personal cooperation projects.
The personality of the young man has also been revealed in these years.
Before joining Lanvin, he worked in Yves Saint Laurent for a period of time. After leaving, he spent a year in the countryside, reflecting on her pursuit of fashion.
In a public activity after leaving Lanvin, the fat man said he was writing a book for the first four months.
In March 2016, he also ran to Beijing, China, and had an open dialogue with Tsinghua University's editor in chief of China VOGUE at Tsinghua University.
He said: "the future of the fashion industry is the combination of technology and fashion's humanistic characteristics and aesthetic characteristics."
Soon after that, rumors came that little fat people would join Apple Corp. Dior, Oscar de la Renta and UNIQLO had heard rumors before him.
These unreliable rumors can only illustrate one thing: fans did not forget the little fat man, those who were obsessed with the elegant old fashions, and looked forward to him taking the pen again.
Compared to today's active social media, the little fat man is too calm.
In the long four years, he designed perfume, made shoes for Converse several times, and in cooperation with LeSportsac, he used his own graffiti comic head.
As long as he designs, he will be rob, and even the cattle know that they can store up goods for speculation.
You know, between little fat and Lanvin, there is no competition prohibition clause. He was born in 1961. Is he too young to retire?
02
How's Lanvin?
In the past four years, Wang Xiaolan, who was fighting against the little fat man, was fading away from the horizon.
Lanvin has a history of 130 years, and it has reached the peak of sales volume of 235 million euros in 2012, and has been declining since then.
In the first year after the fat man left, Lanvin suffered its first loss.
In vain, Wang Xiaolan replaced several creative directors in a vain way, and the brand went from bad to worse.
Wang Xiaolan finally released his hands in February 2018, and China company Fuji international bought Lanvin.
A year later, the star appointed Bruno Sialelli as the creative director, who had previously worked in Loewe, Balenciaga, and Acne Studios, but was only 31 years old, and had not been able to enter the ranks of top designers.
After the completion of the Fosun trading, Wang Xiaolan lost control of Lanvin. Another important shareholder, Swiss businessman, retained only a few shares.
Fosun has brought some positive signs to Lanvin, and the latest creative director's first show in recent fashion week in Paris is not bad.
Some people say that this season has finally come out of the depression and depression of many past seasons, and has become more relaxed.
The designer used many animal patterns and prints, and the colors were light.
Vanessa Friedman, a fashion critic, once wrote that Lanvin has no difference from ordinary brands without a fat person.
Niemann's department store, one of Lanvin dealers for many years, did not keep on ordering after he was kicked out of the company.
After watching the first show of Lanvin in the Fosun era, the commentator said, "(work) is not as empty or cynical as it was when it was last restarted, but it is not as elegant as it once was."
Lanvin's "informal spokesperson" was Brigitte Lin, a loyal fan of VIP. She was wearing a scarlet Lanvin dress and her family celebrating their 60 birthday in front of the rose wall. It was a close match with Lanvin.
But Brigitte Lin's time has passed.
Now, in the Lanvin show, Janine Chang and Meng Meiqi have emerged. Can they attract young people's interest?
03
Is it possible to break the mirror?
It is amazing that no matter how long it takes, people seem to love the little fat man.
Once Lanvin changed, fans called the little fat man back.
Why do people love him?
VOGUE marketing director Virginia Smith believes that the design of his bare zipper and ribbon lace has laid a symbolic style for Lanvin, "a sense of regret".
"When the fashion house is chasing the trend for the new generation, the elegant female style of Elbaz is more and more popular." the answer of a blogger has won many forwarding and praise on the Internet.
What did little fat man think of himself?
When he was about to leave Lanvin in 2015, little fat got a fashion award. His award-winning speech was like this: "in the past, we thought about what women wanted and needed, what we could do to make women more beautiful.
"
"However, today's creative directors are more creative than others, making sure that they can take good pictures and make sure they are nice on the screen.
The noise starts to cool, but I prefer a deeper, more persistent whisper.
Little fat people do not like popularity and youth, and have publicly stated that they will not set foot in the mass clothing consumer market.
When he was in Lanvin, he worked with H&M. He stressed that "this is H&M turning to high fashion instead of Lanvin turning to popularity."
Lanvin what is the future of this advanced customized brand?
At the end of the Wang Xiaolan era, there was a creative director who wanted to learn Michael Kors in all directions. He didn't object to the management, but the designer left quickly.
The key to today's question is what does Fosun want to do?
In the appointment of the 31 year old creative director, the announcement reads: "with the trend of increasingly blurred gender boundaries in luxury fashion, Sialelli's ability to design fluency between men and women will give Lanvin an edge."
It can hear some trends that are closely following the trend. However, it is fashionable to do high fashion or to learn light extravagance.
Why hasn't Lanvin made money in recent years?
Lanvin attaches importance to ready-made clothes, sales of clothing and accessories are about 6:4, and American media reported that this proportion is actually up to 8:2.
That is to say, Lanvin has a low proportion of handbags and leather goods.
Ready-made clothes are the red roses of fashion houses. They look beautiful.
Handbags are the category of more money making families. In recent years, the hot Gucci has been using handbags as cash cows.
Today's Lanvin needs bursting packages to help brands grow back financially.
These are the issues that need to be considered in brand CEO. In 2018, designers were appointed at the beginning of Fosun. In the middle of the year, the original Sandro CEO was invited to take charge of Lanvin. He was experienced in the Luxury Retailing Industry and worked for a long time in the brand of LVMH group.
Although the design of the little fat man is beautiful, some of them are too tall.
Louis Vuitton and Dior have all been complying with this trend, Chanel design has changed little, but marketing is very young.
Fosun didn't make a stand, but as an investment company, supporting Lanvin for high fashion is not a rational choice.
As everyone knows, the more advanced works in the fashion circle are, the harder it is to make money, and the lowest level of perfume and cosmetics in Pyramid can bring the biggest cash flow.
Zara and UNIQLO are the machines that make the top rich.
Whether the future of Fosun is to resell Lanvin or to hold strategic ownership for a long time, it is a natural duty to add value to the brand.
Fosun is not a large fashion group, it can not make other brands to earn money to support their families, but Lanvin is beautiful and flowery. Lanvin must make money.
Here, you will find that little fat can return to Lanvin?
In terms of business logic, this problem is only reasonable for small fat people to change their minds and help make money.
Another possibility is that the brand asks him to come back, use this event marketing, and pay attention to how long it can last.
It seems that Lanvin, which is somewhat more uncertain, has recently come to terms.
The new creative director and his old family Loewe had a lawsuit against competition, so fans called the fat man to go home.
Feelings are precious, but what leads them is business.
Source: interface Author: Boey
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