Why Is Dior The King Of Saving Global Luxury Goods In Paris?
Dior was founded in 1947 and has a history of 72 years.
In Fortune magazine's list of the world's top 500 in 2018, Dior ranked 208th, the highest ranking of luxury brands, and the top 500 among the top 500.
Dior took the lead in establishing the concept of "brand" through the registered trademark, thus leading the French high fashion industry from the traditional family workshop to the modern enterprise group.
Dior's contribution to the fashion luxury sector is to discover that the mode of "patent authorization" can be used in the fashion industry, and the two is the launch of Dior perfume, which has contributed a pyramidal business model to the entire luxury industry.
In addition to Christine Dio himself, Bernard Arnaud is the most influential figure for Dior, who saved Dior brand and brought it back to the center of the world stage.
Dior established the "most noble" global acquisition strategy, and plans to set up huge business networks around the world to increase investment in high growth and emerging markets.
From its creation to the present, Dior's highly creative style, exquisite fabrics and romantic colors, together with star designers and big movie stars, is a magic weapon for Dior's vigorous vitality.
Every fashion dies from awakening and is born of desire.
The problem is that human awakening is always difficult to awaken in the face of desire.
Luxury is undoubtedly the top tool for making desires.
As long as human desires remain, the life of luxury goods will not stop.
In this desire manufacturing competition, Dior (ChristianDior) is undoubtedly one of the important ones.
Dior has great influence not only on the luxury industry, but also on the fashionable position of Paris.
Because of it, the French luxury style after World War II was established.
Kamal Snow, editor in chief of Harper's gossip, once said, "Dior has saved Paris, just like the battle of the battle of the horse river has saved Paris."
The Christian Dior Co was founded in 1947 and has a history of 72 years.
72 years of enterprise history is not a pride for luxury goods industry.
Many of the most familiar luxury brands have a far greater history than Dior.
However, these brands, which are at the forefront of the time, are not at the forefront of total revenue and profits, but are left behind by Dior.
According to Fortune magazine's list of the top 500 in the world in 2018, Dior ranked 208th, the highest ranking of luxury group.
Its revenue reached US $49 billion 221 million (equivalent to RMB 299 billion 837 million 480 thousand yuan) and its profit was 2 billion 525 million US dollars (equivalent to RMB 16 billion 998 million yuan).
In the top 500 apparel sector, Dior ranked first, followed by Nike ranked 340 and ranked 480 in Adidas.
In addition, according to the "Global Powers of LuxuryGoods (2018)" released by DDT (Deloitte) in 2018, the top 5 are LVMH (belonging to Dior group), Estee Lauder group, Erfeng group, Italy glasses giant Lu xuntai card, and France Open Cloud group.
Dior caters to the taste of mature women in the upper class. It symbolizes the highest spirit of French fashion culture and has a high status in Paris.
Hoeber Dossi, editor of the international forum Herald, once said, "when you mention Mr. Christine Dio's name in front of a taxi driver, it is as loud as the French National Anthem Marseilles". "HebeDorsey"
Among the famous "old entrepreneurs", Christine Dio is one.
At the age of 42, Mr. Dior founded his own brand.
But 10 years later, the great French fashion designer unfortunately died suddenly of heart disease.
In the past 10 years, he left a beautiful example and outstanding contribution, but it has become an eternal fashion through the time tunnel.
During this period, the artistic images he created all became classics. The very feminine design style had always affected the designers in the fashion industry.
His handling of the details of shoulders, chest and waist is still the design language used by designers.
In 1905, Mr. Dior was born in the noble family of Normandy coast of France.
Dior's uncle is a cabinet minister. His father is a successful and wealthy businessman. His mother Madelin is the representative of elegant and intelligent women in upper class.
These family backgrounds have laid down genes for Dior's subsequent high-end fashion design, especially the gentle and elegant look of the mother. It is also the source of Dior's creative inspiration.
At the age of 5, the Dior family moved to the fashion capital of Paris.
Paris's strong artistic atmosphere deeply affects Dior, but his pursuit of the art road has been opposed by his parents. His parents hope he can become a diplomat.
For this reason, Dior had to get the Institut D'Etudes Politiques De Paris.
As a compromise, parents allow him to continue to study art courses that he is interested in in his spare time.
The economic crisis erupted in 1929, coupled with the failure of father Morris Dio's decision making, and the decline of family business.
During this period, Dior's brother and mother died one after another.
The poor Dior had to start painting and designing sketches, but fortunately someone noticed Dior's talent soon.
At that time, Robert Piquet, Lucien Lelong and other famous fashion designers employed him as assistant designer.
After six years of work as a designer in Paris, Dior was finally arranged to meet with the then textile giant and MarcelBoussac, France's richest man, in 1946.
With the support of the richest man, Dior had its own fashion house this year.
At the time of the end of World War II, people had not yet come out of the haze of the war, and were looking for someone to give the fashion industry a shot in the arm.
In February 12, 1947, Christine Dio launched his first high fashion show.
After the 90 complete subversion of the dress that was expected to be exhibited at the time, all the audience cheered, and the ladies and ladies of the upper class in Paris were crazy about it.
Audi mentioned the skirt length 40 centimeters away from the ground, gracefully exposing the female's ankle. The length of the sleeves is usually in the middle of the arm, that is, the so-called 3/4 sleeve, which is lined with long gloves. The smooth and smooth natural shoulder line, the high breast with a bra, and the thin waist are connected; the high buttocks highlight the female lines; the big skirt with twenty yards of cloth is processed, plus the exaggerated hat brim.
All this has helped to boost the fashion industry in Paris.
Alexander Lieberman, art director of fashion magazine, once said, "Dior has achieved the goal of creating a woman's character as the main conception of Alexander Liberman".
The first show of Dior awakened the French elegance that was missing after the war.
Dior's exquisite luxury costumes also let Paris once again dominate the fashion trend, and let the French fashion industry once again enjoy the supremacy of the international fashion industry.
It is worth mentioning that at this time, Pierre Cardin (Pierre Cardin), who was later known as "the three great masters of futurism", is working as a tailor in Dior fashion house.
Dior's first show of revolutionary fashion has caused great shock in the industry.
After the press conference, Dior's clothing illustration painted by Dagmar was put on the cover of Vogue magazine.
Soon, Carmel Snow, the genius editor of American fashion bazaar, named Dior's design style "New Look" (Snow).
Thanks to the "new look", Dior won the "Oscar prize" in the fashion industry and the "Neiman Backus prize" in Texas, the first prize awarded to a Frenchman.
In a sense, the Americans accepted Dior's design and admitted that fashion in Paris, France is still in the leading position of the world fashion industry.
However, it was not until 1956 that France realized that the master of the fashion should be rewarded with the medal of honor. This is the highest reward of France for the artist who has made outstanding contributions to the art world.
In 1947, the first bottle of perfume named "miss MissDior" was heard in the world in 1947.
On the question of why perfume is to be made, Dior's own answer is: "every woman I dress is embellished with a hazy and attractive elegance. Perfume is an indispensable complement to feminine personality, only it can embellish my clothes and make it more perfect. It makes women's styles and Customs together with fashion."
But the meaning of perfume for Dior is far from being so simple.
The launch of "Miss Dior" is not only of great significance to Dior itself, but also a business model for the entire luxury industry.
"Miss Dior" is not the first perfume in the fashion world. Chanel created Chanel 5 in 1921, and for the first time linked fashion and perfume.
But the significance of "MissDior" is that its best-selling has made the whole luxury industry and fashion industry find that perfume can be sold, and because perfume can be produced in mass and with high profits, it can bring steady and high income to the brand.
Although the price of high-end luxury goods is high, the total volume is always limited.
While accessories such as perfume and lipstick are not expensive, they can be sold on a large scale for a high profit.
After the MissDior, the classic product structure of the luxury industry is determined: the top is made for advanced customization and sold to the upper class.
Secondly, the brand clothing and bags are sold to the middle class; perfume, accessories and so on a series of low price single products, sold to the middle class of the masses, to meet their dream of pursuing big cards.
This classic Pyramid structure can make a brand very stable in business.
The price of perfume, which is relatively low in price, is also due to two points: first, once purchased, it is equal to finding a potential high-end consumer in the future for Dior. It becomes a ticket for entering Dior's garden. Two, many perfumes have become an everyday advertisement, and it is an excellent brand advertisement.
Although Christine Dio regards coco Chanel as one of her idols, Chanel herself is ridiculing Dior's style.
She thought that Dior would not dress up as a woman, but just put her clothes on them.
However, it turned out that Dior had hit Chanel's fashion pioneer in the years before his death.
In the first year of the company's establishment, Dior shop began to make profits.
Its turnover was 1 million 200 thousand francs in 1947, and then increased to 3 million 600 thousand francs in 1948, rising to 12 million 700 thousand francs in 1949.
Since 1948, Dior's business genius has begun to emerge. He began to build his own sales network in this year.
Although foreign business is still in its infancy, it occupies 60% of total revenue.
A few years later, Dior began distributing its distribution points to Europe and the United States, especially New York.
Studying the history of luxury development shows that opening stores in New York is a necessary part of the vast majority of luxury brands going to the world.
In 1948, Dior promoted boutique to New York.
Since then, Dior has gone to New York two times a year and is determined to establish a commercial fashion distribution system in the United States.
This seems very simple at the moment, but it was not easy in the year.
We have popularized a basic fact of luxury development: Although many luxury goods have a long history, their early expansion is very slow.
Take the familiar LV as an example, from 1854 to 1977, 120 years ago, there are only two shops in the world.
The early stage of these luxuries is basically maintained in a relatively small and beautiful state, which is far from what we see today as a huge luxury group.
Mr. Dior used the distribution system of the American fashion industry in New York, and made necessary adjustments to the company according to the cost structure, work practices and trade union organizations in the United States.
Dior tried to sign a contract with the American socks company in New York, allowing the company to produce Dior stockings.
This means that Dior introduced the privileges royalty system for the first time in the fashion industry to create a global fashion industry.
Dior first discovered the mode of "patent licensing", which can be used in the fashion industry.
At the time, they sold their drawings to department stores and clothing manufacturers in the United States, and they were designed according to their design.
In this way, the upper class women in Paris can't buy Dior products very soon.
Moreover, Dior does not need to invest in its own cost, nor does it need to manage, produce and so on.
By 1951, Dior had expanded from its original dress to handbags, men's shirts, gloves, scarves, hats, knitwear, sportswear, underwear, glasses and so on.
Soon, the fashion industry learned this way of operation.
This can be said to be the second major contribution of Dior to the fashion luxury industry.
Dior recognizes the importance of brand identification because it has changed from "ChristianDior" to "catchy" and easily remembered "Dior" and later "CD".
Thanks to the talent of the artist and the shrewdness of the businessmen, Dior has made its brand popular and has promoted the family business model to the multinational company's mode.
On the evening of October 23, 1957, Mr. Dior died of a heart attack in Italy, and the star fell.
As the first fashion designer in history, he boarded the cover of time magazine with his famous left-handed scissors.
From the "new style" series, the most creative form has been the highlight of Dior series.
Every year, Dior creates new series, each of which has new meanings, but most of them focus on the development of women's beautiful curves in early style.
In the design, Dior always placed the female body in the shape he imagined and created, creating A, Y, H, spherical and other women's clothing styles.
Among them, the H shape clothing is similar to the straight line modelling in 1920s; the A shape is to weaken the shoulder shape, some people call it the Eiffel Tower type modelling; the Y shape focuses on the upper body, often uses the short jacket jacket collar or the scarf and so on to create the V shape, concentrates the human's attention on the neck and the shoulder.
Apart from the importance of appearance, Mr. Dior emphasizes fabric very much.
Many of Dior's works, especially the tuxedo, are unique in shape and very complicated in internal structure.
He often used the complex structure of Vitoria and Edward, including the waist underwear, the inner skirt, the buttocks, and so on. The lines and linings of layers of layers were built up with a strong and complete internal contour.
In order to support these complex shapes, luxurious fabrics become a necessary choice.
Some synthetic materials, such as nylon and man-made fibers, which are easy to handle, are all his favorites, because they are strong enough to stand tall and upright, and are more conducive to shaping the sculptural sense of the work.
Regarding color, Dior likes to combine naturalism with romanticism.
The natural theme of flowers and insects flying his dress is colourful, and the borrowing of ancient mythical figures or historical celebrities has made many of his works romantic.
For example, in 1953, Dior designed the May dress of naturalism and romanticism.
This waist Belted Dress is all over the body and is decorated with pparent hard yarn. It is embroidered with hand embroidered flowers and plants.
In the grass, it is decorated with clover and hand-made knots. The flowers are sparse from top to bottom, full of spring and romantic breath.
If we look closely at the development path of the world's top luxury goods, we have a very important point in addition to what we mentioned before in the top sections, especially in the global center of New York. The combination with royalty, celebrities and movie stars is also one of the key elements that luxury can become a luxury representative and can quickly become famous.
Like the famous Chanel 5 perfume, its famous classic moment is 1940. When the reporter asked Marilyn Monroe what to wear at night, Monroe replied in a sly way: "A few drops ofChanel NO.5 (I only wear Chanel 5 perfume to dream)".
The same goes with Dior, the celebrities and celebrities who wear Dior costumes. We call them Dior stars.
Since 1947, Dior has attracted the most beautiful ladies in the world, including the royal family and the Hollywood golden age.
Marlene Dietrich, Marilyn Monro, Eva Gardner and Rita Haiworth deliver their fate to Dior and join them in glory.
After the death of Dior, Dior was still recognized by the market despite its design. However, there was a problem in the operation of the Dior group, which invested Dior and managed Dior.
In 1968, Dior's Dior management company had to sell MOET & CHANDON perfume company to MOET & CHANDON Hennessy group because of its operating problems.
10 years later, the BX group went bankrupt, and the Dior clothing department was pferred to the WillotGroup group.
3 years later, Virot was also on the verge of bankruptcy, and the Christian Dior Co declined.
At this time, a key figure who revived Dior was Bernard Arnaud, BernaldArnault, the world's godfather of luxury, then the founder of LVMH group and the chairman of Dior group.
Bernard Arnaud graduated from Paris Polytechnic College.
In 1984, Arnaud, 36, saw the opportunity to pay $15 million at the expense of a mortgage family business, plus $80 million of investment companies. He took the opportunity to acquire Virot, who owns Dior.
However, the meaning of drunken spirit is not in liquor. What Arnaud sees is actually not Virot, but the Dior fashion company of the group.
Arnaud later admitted that he had taken the fancy of Dior at that time, because New York taxi driver's ridicule woke him up: "you are French, I do not know who your president is, but I know that Dior is a famous brand in France."
Arnaud has a soft spot for Dior, which is said to be a shopping experience in the United States.
According to French fashion and luxury management expert, Mary French Pohina, author of Dior biography, recalls: one night, Arnaud in the United States needed a bath towel and went to a nearby department store to buy it. The shop also sold Dior products. He thought Dior was obviously more elegant than other products.
Later, if he had the chance, he would buy Dior products.
After the acquisition of Arnaud, Dior vigorously announced that he wanted to revive the world and become the world's first fashion brand.
When the vloat group rose again, Arnaud sold some of the non mainstream businesses of the group at a high price of $400 million, and only retained Dior and Le Marcel department store.
In the early years, she was sold to the Dior perfume Department of Hennessy, and was also re bought by Arnott.
Two years later, Dior began to revive.
It has been said that without Arnaud, Dior had long ago "wasted everything", so he was called the magician who raised the brand.
At the same time, Arnaud also began to fight the idea of Hennessy and Louis Weedon.
At that time, the two big companies merged to become LVMH group in order to reduce the risk of hostile takeover.
However, for the distribution of shares, Louis Weedon and Hennessy executives are not willing to compete with each other.
Arnaud used the contradiction between them to acquire a large number of LVMH shares at a very low price.
With the shadow of Dior, behind the generation of star designers, this has almost become an open secret to the luxury industry.
The real value of luxuries is not clothing, clothing, etc. but the people and stories behind them.
In October 1957, after the sudden death of Mr. Dior, Yves SaintLaurent, 21, took over the brand and became the world's youngest senior tailor and costume designer. (4 years later, he founded the brand YSL, named after her own name).
In January 30, 1958, the first Yves Saint Laurent TRAP ZE series was designed by Dior, the young designer.
He used excellent to unparalleled works to dispel all his worries about being too young.
Yves Saint Laurent used black fur silk to design a knee fashion with bow tie. It was called Kristen (Christine Dio) II and became the chief designer of Christine Dio immediately.
At that time, the French media even wrote: "Yves Saint Laurent saved France".
In 1960, YSL was recruited into the army after the outbreak of the Algeria war, and his design work at Dior was taken over by Mark MarcBohan.
With 30 years in office, Mark Bojang has been the longest designer in charge of Dior so far.
Mark Bojang enthusiastically pursued Christine Dio's design philosophy and reinterpreted it with ingenious and pertinent means: to ensure that Dior did not lose its own style while complying with the atmosphere of the times.
Compared with YSL's innovation, he prefers "conservative". He is determined to return to Mr. Dior's solemn and magnificent luxury.
In addition to being a successful capital manipulator, Arnaud, the second generation leader of Dior, has a very unique look for star designers.
In fashion design, he can always search for the most suitable designers, and star designers become Dior's magic weapon.
In France, which has always been famous for its self pride, Arnaud dares to give John Galliano, ghosts Alexander Mark Quinn, such as Dior and Givenchy, to the British teenager Mark Jacobs.
Although there was only one suitcase in Mark's first ready-made garment series designed for Louis Weedon, Arnaud was still the first to rush to the background to congratulate him.
Mark said: "Arnaud gives us the greatest freedom to design, almost never shoots new ideas."
In 1989, Italy designer Afranco Ferre (Gianfranco Ferr) succeeded Mark Bojang as Dior's chief designer.
10 years later, HediSlimane, the rebel boy, took the helm of Dior Homme to shape the brand into the pioneer and pioneering men's dress we know today.
The suit he designed was cool and slender, and his slightly worn way of thinking brought the world's most influential men's revolution to date, which was sought after by many celebrities.
Old Buddha KarlLagerfeld even joked that he was losing weight because he was wearing Hedi suits.
Up to now, Dior has become a luxury brand Empire, including Christian DiorCouture (100% share), Financi re Jean Goujon company (100% share) and LVMH group (42.5% shares) engaged in financial business.
Continuous acquisition is also a key to the growth of Dior group.
Dior group pursues "the most noble" global acquisition strategy, and the most famous brands scattered around the world are their dream, such as France's world-famous perfume, champagne and Cognac, which are distributed in France, the United States, Argentina, New Zealand and other places of origin wine. Scotland's whisky, Swiss watches, Italy leather goods, clothing and sports cars, Cuban cigars and other famous, and China's liquor, ceramics, silk, tea and jade have become their target.
Beginning in the 90s of last century, Dior group's LVMH managed to acquire Givenchy, Fendi (Fendi) and TAGHeuer.
At the same time, Arnaud still maintained the family management and independent operation of the subsidiaries.
Some financial magazines have summed up Arnaud's way of governing business into eight brilliant words: "buying vigorously and loosely managing".
The more than 50 subsidiaries distributed around the world are basically autonomous, and the owners of the original company can still enjoy tremendous influence in their territories.
Dior group only requires integration of retail channels to share strong retail networks from entities to the Internet.
However, in order to firmly maintain his core position in the loose management mode, Arnaud always pays cash in the process of acquisition or holding, and the stock is charged.
The advantage of doing this is that it will neither dilute his shares or subordinate his company to his own capital advantage.
To some extent, luxury is also a work of art.
Therefore, the way to play luxury goods will naturally combine with art. This is also the core strategy for Dior group to maintain a good brand image for a long time.
Arnaud is committed to integrating culture and art into trading and opening up a new way of management.
Since 1990, Arnaud has been actively involved in the sponsorship of French culture and art, and has adopted policies to promote the quality of art and culture, such as an important annual exhibition of sponsoring French art galleries.
Despite the high cost of such exhibitions, there are millions of visitors, because sponsorship is a rare classic exhibition, which is of great help to the group image.
The role of a cultural enterprise as a savior is also a portrayal of the group, just like the acquired art appreciation magazine, the aid magazine and the classical music station sponsored by the world newspaper.
After the Notre Dame de Paris fire, Arnaud issued a statement for the first time, saying his family and group would donate 200 million euros (about 1 billion 520 million yuan) to help repair Notre Dame de Paris.
The statement said they hoped to display their solidarity and help rebuild this extraordinary Cathedral in the time of national tragedy, because it is a symbol of French, French heritage and French solidarity.
Source: Gravel Business Review Author: Liu Guohua
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