Is It Really Cool? Why Is The Development Of Natural Fur Become Narrower And Narrower?
Recently, according to local media reports in Norway, the Norway parliament will pass new legislation this month, immediately prohibiting the establishment of new animal fur farms and requiring the existing animal fur farms to complete the demolition work by February 1, 2025. Just last month, Prada said it will remove animal fur from the fashion series, and the decision will take effect from the spring and summer 2020 women's fashion series.
Over the years, the international "anti animal fur" camp has grown. Since 1994, since Calvin Klein became the first famous brand to join the International League of zero fur, hundreds of fashion brands have declared abandoned animal fur. Is the leather industry really "cool"? As a matter of fact, the reasons for these big names to abandon animal fur are very simple. As Prada responsible person who recently abandoned animal fur, he said it is becoming increasingly difficult to purchase animal fur that meets both brand quality standards and ethical standards.
Well, What is the impact of China's largest processing market and retail market on animal fur? How should the oldest clothing material of animal fur exist in the fashion industry?
Affected by international market fluctuation
The price of fur market in China is decreasing.
Animal fur has been a controversial topic in the fashion industry since the 90s of last century. PETA (PETA) The campaign against animal fur is the climax of the topic.
Statistics show that China is already the second largest animal skin prairie production area after Europe. It is also the largest animal fur retail market, the largest animal fur processing and export market. For example, in the annual export products of the world-renowned fur manufacturer, Denmark, Copenhagen, there are 95% Above The share of animal fur is sold to Asia, of which China is the largest customer. According to the latest and complete data provided by the International Fur Association (IFF), The total retail sales of animal skins in China are several times the total volume of retail sales in Germany and the United States, and these two countries are already the main consumer market of animal fur in Europe and the United States.
Insiders pointed out: "what should be noted is that Prada's decision to discarded animal fur has indeed affected the moral orientation of our consumers, because like consumers in the west, Chinese consumers are also very sensitive to western fashion decisions. For example, the animal fur trade in China was indeed at its most vigorous stage 5 years ago, but its sales have been declined to a certain extent after being influenced by animal awareness and other factors. In particular, with the increasing degree of simulation and luxury of artificial fur produced by polyester fiber and other chemical fibers, the substitution of imitation fur fabrics for natural fur will continue to increase, and the challenges faced by China's natural fur industry will be more arduous.
At the same time, fur is an industry closely related to globalization. When the international market is not good, our animal fur practitioners will also be affected. In the past two years, the price of mink and fox fur has been falling, resulting in the price of local fur products.
There are suggestions from professionals. Only through continuous reform in animal welfare and innovative research and development can Fur Workers gain business opportunities.
Fierce debate on animal welfare
Consumer oriented development
"Cruel", "bloody" and "maltreated" are the fury of animal protection people for fur industry. They can not accept the process of making animal skins, and can not tolerate some brands to catch wild animals in superior cortex. More importantly, with the constant pressure of public welfare organizations, luxury brands began to reflect on themselves. More and more brands decided to abandon animal fur and join the anti fur camp.
In 2016, Armani signed an agreement with the American Humane Association (HSUS) and the Fur Free Alliance (International Anti fur alliance), announcing that all products of the group no longer use animal fur. After that, Versace , gucci , Chanel They promise not to use animal fur anymore.
Animal fur workers and their supporters are equally unyielding. They also offer counterattacks. Last year, the International Fur Association released a video on how to make artificial fur in factories. Artificial fur made from petro chemical materials will damage the environment, and artificial fur will take millions of years to decompose in the process of landfill.
In contrast, animal fur can only be biodegraded in a few years. In addition, proper use of natural fur is also related to the natural balance. The International Fur Association official has publicly stated, "if we don't use it, the fur is still there. There are plenty of Fox and coyote in some parts of North America, so as long as hunting scale meets government standards, it will not affect the survival and continuity of animal groups.
Judging from the current situation, although the global fur sales remain at a relatively stable level, it is certain that once the international high profile moves towards the prohibition of animal fur, this means that the road ahead will be narrower and narrower. As for the development of animal fur industry, the final decision of market is always in the hands of consumers. The choice of consumers directly decides the future of animal fur.
Luxury goods collectively resist fur
On the contrary, it helps R & D innovation.
In fact, the development trend of the international fur market is still flourishing, and the age of the consumer groups has a downward trend. This shows that young people become the main force of animal fur consumption, and how to cater for the young people's preferences in design is particularly important.
Copenhagen fur is a world-renowned fur auction house. Its business leader in China said in an interview with reporters. The collective boycott of fur has not yet had a substantial impact on the industry. On the contrary, because of its topic characteristics, it is very easy to resist fur as a marketing tool for fashion brands.
At present, the massive abandonment of fur has not shaken the foundation of this industry. According to the statistics of the International Fur Association In the 2018 autumn and winter international fashion week, the brand of animal fur was still as high as 64%. "It's easy for you to expand the small probability event to the probability rate event. After several brands said that the animal fur was abandoned, everyone predicted that the fur would be withdrawn from the stage of history." The person in charge said.
The International Fur Association established in 1949 is also one of the most important organizations in the fur industry. In addition to specifying trade rules and trade rules for fur trade, they will also shoulder some responsibility for vocalization. The head of the business in China said. Fur workers seldom do face to face with consumers in daily work, and more contact with people in the industry. Therefore, the lack of communication between them leads to some misunderstanding.
In addition, in order to cater for young consumers, for some cutting-edge designers, fur's innovative wear is the new way that they want to open up. "If conditions permit, I will use fur in the two quarters of spring, summer, autumn and winter, mainly because the amount of material used and the process will be different." A young fur designer told reporters: "in spring and summer, we can cut the very thin marten and cut it together with spanlucent fabrics. Finally, the effect of the finished garment is like the mink's fleece suspended in the air, which is very novel."
This shows that it is not difficult to find a balance between negative social media and social responsibility in fur society. Some people have found many alternatives, such as mixed use of genuine and fake fur, or let fur grow more and more in creative design. This is very conducive to the innovation and development of fur. It can be seen that the sustainable development of animal fur is also deeply explored and explored by people waiting for employment.
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